[biffhamilton]

I noticed mine had snapped when putting my bike away after a ride. There was a ton of play in my linkage.

 

[Zissou88]

Sorry, some more questions- I'm getting closer though!!!

H10's are all sold out, as are M20 TR's.

So, is this worth doing instead of waiting for the 2021...

Get an M30, with the upgraded TR bits and dropper.
Is the carbon that much better? I guess as a base to build off for future and it'll be stiffer etc Main difference is the groupset and cranks are better from what I can see, but you do get XT rear mech and hyperglide+ which is a bonus

-What tyres come on it? Are there options? Different sites say Ikon or Ardent?

-If I don't get the squidlock, is there still a lockout function with the dropper too?

-I don't want to create another mass argument, is squidlock worth £55 if it comes with 2 pos lockout standard anyway?

If anyone has pictures of Mint green Oizs with tan wall tyres that'd appreciated!

Ta

Sam

 

[JayDee81]

The M30 with TR bits will be great. Weakest link are the brakes, which I would change for sure, but mostly because I don't like Shimano brakes. Other than that only the wheels are not exactly light, but will be perfectly functional and reliable.
As for the tires the bike probably comes with Ardent (possibly Ardent Race) front and Ikon rear.

 

[WR304]

Sorry, some more questions- I'm getting closer though!!!

H10's are all sold out, as are M20 TR's.

So, is this worth doing instead of waiting for the 2021...

Get an M30, with the upgraded TR bits and dropper.
Is the carbon that much better? I guess as a base to build off for future and it'll be stiffer etc Main difference is the groupset and cranks are better from what I can see, but you do get XT rear mech and hyperglide+ which is a bonus

-What tyres come on it? Are there options? Different sites say Ikon or Ardent?

-If I don't get the squidlock, is there still a lockout function with the dropper too?

-I don't want to create another mass argument, is squidlock worth £55 if it comes with 2 pos lockout standard anyway?

If anyone has pictures of Mint green Oizs with tan wall tyres that'd appreciated!

Ta

Sam

I haven't seen any clear information on if there's an all new bike coming soon to replace the current model of the Orbea Oiz. It's something to consider though.

The mint green / black colour scheme is a gloss finish so should look quite good. I was originally thinking about getting that before eventually going with graphite grey (gloss) / black (matte).

According to the Orbea website an Orbea Oiz M30 would come with Rear - Maxxis Ikon 2.20" FB 120 TPI 3C Exo TR and Front - Maxxis Ardent 2.2" FB Dual Exo TR tyres fitted. A complete TR 120mm travel version of the Orbea Oiz would come with Maxxis Forekaster 2.35" FB 120 TPI Dual Exo and Maxxis Ardent 2.2" FB Dual Exo TR tyres.

With the lockout and dropper post there are two versions of the squidlock - one that is just a remote lockout switch and one that is a remote lockout switch but also has an integrated dropper lever. The squidlock with integrated dropper lever would make most sense to spec from new if you're getting a dropper post for a tidy layout. It means all the cabling would be in place in the frame and the squidlock has better ergonomics than the Fox 2 position remote lockout lever I suspect it comes with otherwise.

 

[jstandfest]

Squidlock and dropper post parts?

Does anybody happen to have a solid cable stop cover for `19-20 Oiz or squidlock no dropper post lever clamp (both items pictured) that they'd part with for reasonable amount? I'm looking at possibly going no dropper post but would need those 2 items and shipping to United States for few dollar parts was too high. Thanks for checking.

 

[WR304]

Does anybody happen to have a solid cable stop cover for `19-20 Oiz or squidlock no dropper post lever clamp (both items pictured) that they'd part with for reasonable amount? I'm looking at possibly going no dropper post but would need those 2 items and shipping to United States for few dollar parts was too high. Thanks for checking.

I've found it quite hard to get small spare parts for my Orbea. My experience has been that Specialized bikes are far easier to get small spare parts for!

With the blanking plate I ended up simply putting electrical tape along the inside of the existing plate to fill the hole when switching over to the SRAM AXS.

When you see the picture of those three blanking plate sections bear in mind that they aren't symmetrical. The left hand side plate will only take that piece with the long hole in whilst the single hole and blanked off plates are both for the right hand side only.

 

[WR304]

My bike is back up and running again.

I had the replacement lower shockmount bolt made from duplex hardened stainless steel, rather than titanium in the end. The way it was done was to machine the bolt and then it has a short 7mm socket head on the end for tightening it.

This 7mm socket head sits flush and doesn't protrude from the swinglink when installed.

Reassembled with blue loctite threadlocker on the threads it all seems to be ok. There was enough undamaged carbon fibre in the swinglink holes that the bolt appears to be sitting in there supported. There isn't any noticeable freeplay or slop in the rear suspension so it appears to be working normally. I'll give it a try riding tomorrow.

 

[JayDee81]

Hey guys.

Thinking about my susp more. The shock doesn't have the open mode compression adjust that the regular DPS has, right? That would be pretty nice if it had it.

Second thing I was thinking about is the compression setting on the Fox fork. How do you run it? Also do you run it differently for racing and general riding/training?

Third thing, how much sag (or psi for weight) do you run on the TR model for racing?

Thanks

 

[LMN]

Hey guys.

Thinking about my susp more. The shock doesn't have the open mode compression adjust that the regular DPS has, right? That would be pretty nice if it had it.

Second thing I was thinking about is the compression setting on the Fox fork. How do you run it? Also do you run it differently for racing and general riding/training?

Third thing, how much sag (or psi for weight) do you run on the TR model for racing?

Thanks

Every Fit 4 fork I have worked on has had 11 clicks of effective compression adjustment from closed. There are 22 clicks I believe but the last 11 do not do anything. I generally run 8 clicks from closed on a step cast 32. I will adjust it though depending on my fatigue level. If I am fresh and hitting things hard I will gun more compression but as I fatigue I run less.

My ball park for air-pressure is set your psi to your weight in lbs. I personally run about 10psi more than my weight.

 

[Daniel Thomas]

Pulling your thumb back too far can be a real stretch on the thumb joint and over time riding most days it's possible to end up with a repetitive strain injury from shifting like that over and over again. The integrated ispec EV mounts have some adjustment in so you may be able to rotate your shifter round a little on the mount to reduce that stretch and make it more comfortable.

Unfortunately I have already used the maximum adjustment, but the shift lever is still positioned in the middle of the proximal phalanx of my thumb. To shift, I have to move the thumb back far and I get joint pain. I have experimented with spacers and a longer screw. A 13 mm spacer (plastic thing that came on the screws of a bottle cage) puts the shifter in a nicer position. There's no form closure, so I can't ride like that. Because of the Covid-19 measures, the local fablab is closed, so I can't go make a proper extender. I hope they will open again in the next week or so!

 

[JayDee81]

Every Fit 4 fork I have worked on has had 11 clicks of effective compression adjustment from closed. There are 22 clicks I believe but the last 11 do not do anything. I generally run 8 clicks from closed on a step cast 32. I will adjust it though depending on my fatigue level. If I am fresh and hitting things hard I will gun more compression but as I fatigue I run less.

My ball park for air-pressure is set your psi to your weight in lbs. I personally run about 10psi more than my weight.

Thanks for your input.

I have 34 SC that came on the 2019 TR, there are 22 compression clicks as you said and from what I can recognize the 0, 1 and 2 clicks from open are the same, but after that you can feel the fork stiffening and not running so smooth over little trail debris, so unlike your experience.

For the shock it's funny, but I have run it almost exactly as you said. I am 67 kg, which is ~150 lb and I run 160 psi.

Anyone else racing on the TR caring to share his setup?

 

[Daniel Thomas]

Depending on what I carry, weight is 170 to 175 lbs. I run 170 psi and want a volume spacer. I just checked the pressure and it was only 160 psi (yes, I accounted for the pressure due to pressurizing the pump). Not sure why, I am certain that I put in 170 psi.

 

[WR304]

Unfortunately I have already used the maximum adjustment, but the shift lever is still positioned in the middle of the proximal phalanx of my thumb. To shift, I have to move the thumb back far and I get joint pain. I have experimented with spacers and a longer screw. A 13 mm spacer (plastic thing that came on the screws of a bottle cage) puts the shifter in a nicer position. There's no form closure, so I can't ride like that. Because of the Covid-19 measures, the local fablab is closed, so I can't go make a proper extender. I hope they will open again in the next week or so!

That's no good. If you're getting pain now it will only continue to get worse unless addressed. Been there done that.

What you can do temporarily would be to rotate your entire brake levers up round the bars. That will adjust the trigger shift position as well so it's not quite as much of a stretch for your thumb.

Longer term if you're staying Shimano you could either make a custom spacer or get a band on trigger shifter. The band on trigger shifter isn't integrated, so you're no longer limited on angle, but Shimano XT M8100 appears to have two separate models ispec or band on. Unlike SRAM shifters it doesn't seem to be a case of just buying a band on bracket.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-m8100-12-speed-shifter/

.

 

[WR304]

Reassembled with blue loctite threadlocker on the threads it all seems to be ok. There was enough undamaged carbon fibre in the swinglink holes that the bolt appears to be sitting in there supported. There isn't any noticeable freeplay or slop in the rear suspension so it appears to be working normally. I'll give it a try riding tomorrow.

I took my bike out for a ride yesterday and it seemed to be working ok but at the same time it was ridiculously noisy and creaky. The difficult part was tracking down what was causing all the varied noises.

For the suspension I'm going to be replacing the upper shockmount bolt as soon as I can. It's made of the same alloy as the lower bolt that snapped was. I had to ride it home with the broken lower bolt, which would have let the shock twist and put strain on the upper bolt so I'm concerned that upper bolt could be damaged. Visually the bolt is missing some of the black anodising but doesn't seem to be cracked.

I managed to get that rattling loose nut out of the chainstay. The way to get it out is to remove the plastic chainstay protector and there is a larger access hole underneath.

The actual nut is a threaded alloy piece, rather than steel, so it isn't magnetic. To get it out I dropped a piece of card in the hole to act as a stop and guide, rolled the loose nut onto it and then carefully turned the frame over so it would fall out of the hole. It sounds easier than it was! Taking the chain off and having someone to help is advisable.

I've also replaced the Shimano XTR M9100 chain with a fresh chain and replaced the sintered metallic Shimano brake pads in the XT M8120 brakes with Swisstop Disc 27C organic pads.

https://www.swissstop.ch/brakepads/discbrakes/disc27/organic/

This picture shows a sintered metallic Shimano pad from the front brake and one of the pads from the rear brake next to one another. These are taken out of the brakes as is.

It's more obvious seeing the actual pads than in the picture. The front brake pad is highly shiny where the pads have glazed.

The attached graph above is an example of what caused this where I was threshold braking from 58.5 km/h to 10km/h in 7 seconds down to the temporary traffic lights. The problem was every time I'd do this the front brake would lose its feel after a few seconds, going like a block of wood and howling. Sanding down the pads and rebedding them in would sort this, right up until the next time I did a big stop when it would go back to howling again!

That's not strictly related to the bike creaking but was on my list of things to try and quiet.

 

[JayDee81]

View attachment 1338507

What type of glue do you use to attach the rubber/plastic chainstay protector? Mine is peeling off so I will have to reattach it soon.

 

[WR304]

What type of glue do you use to attach the rubber/plastic chainstay protector? Mine is peeling off so I will have to reattach it soon.

The plastic chainstay protector is held on by a 1.5mm allen bolt just behind where the rear gear cable hole is and also by the wrap around section of protector that clips onto the chainstay. There's a strip of weak double sided tape running the length of the chainstay protector too.

To replace this double sided tape you could use something like 3M 9088 Double-Sided High Performance Clear Tape, Size 12mm x 50m :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-9088-Do...DBY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&m=A15PEUTNU1MO89&qid=1591307835&s=merchant-items&sr=1-2

That thinnest part of chainstay protector behind the chainring is probably going to peel off a little on all these bikes. Mine sits a few mm off the chainstay where it's had mud get underneath there in the past. It's quite a thick bit of plastic though so is unlikely to get any worse than that few mm.

With the loose nut removed from the chainstay my bike was far quieter today. It had been creating most of the racket from the bike!

There's still a bit of an intermittent rattle from the brake hose in the down tube and my shoes were creaking a little on the spd pedals but the suspension all seemed fine. I couldn't hear anything that sounded like it was suspension related so that was encouraging.

 

[JayDee81]

Thanks WR304. Mine is peeling near the allen bolt and there is already more than 2 mm space. It has no effect on protection, but you know. It's unsightly.

 

[biffhamilton]

I used shoe goo. Apply it and hold down with zip ties until dry. Works perfect!

 

[WR304]

Thanks WR304. Mine is peeling near the allen bolt and there is already more than 2 mm space. It has no effect on protection, but you know. It's unsightly.

Since taking the chainstay protector off the other day it's no longer stuck down and is peeling off under where the Orbea logo is in the chainstay protector. My bike is dark grey so the gap barely shows fortunately.

The chainstay protector is moulded to fit the chainstay so if there's a big gap you could unclip it and then put it back on making sure it's stretched out as flat as possible to make it look better until you get round to sticking it down properly.

 

[biffhamilton]

Replacement bolt snapped. Second one in three months. Some carbon damage to the linkage this time.