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Discussion starter · #81 ·
Okay, I didn't follow the rest of the thread after a page or so but new lowers, new CSU, new damper and a new air spring? What's left of the old 35? The air? =P

Seriously, that was a crap fork (the 35 Gold RL). How can that sell for $450? I sold mine for $175 (in immaculate shape, and just serviced)... but I would be pressed to pay $100 for it to put on a **** bike.
The lowers are all that's left, since they will accept a 29x3.0 tire. The rest of the fork is hanging on the garage wall for future use.
 
Asking suspension experts on this site.

Any thoughts on the feasability of either A removing it from the 35 Gold's rebound damper and installing the 35 Gold's green plastic damper piston onto the Yari rebound damper leaving the shims in place, or B actually using a Yari rebound damper in this fork after "machining" it down to fit the stanchion (machining meaning using a drill and sandpaper as a crude lathe)?

Yari rebound damper:
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35 Gold rebound damper, from the first post in this thread.
Image


If I do A assuming it is technically possible to fit the green piston onto the Yari shaft after some drilling and mods, any guesses about how well or badly a shim stack will interact with the 35 Gold's piston, given the differences in porting between the Yari and 35 Gold piston?

B wil probably only work if the crush washer groove is deep enough to accomodate a smaller piston diamater... Does anyone have the diameter of the Yari or Revelation piston handy?
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
The Yari's piston is also plastic, and it has a very different profile from the 35 Gold's flat disc. Reducing the Yari's piston size is probably the way to go for a workable outcome. I measure the Yari rebound piston as: OD is 30.75 mm, the crush washer fully compressed has an OD of 31.02 mm, the crush washer groove has a diameter of 28.2 mm. I think you'll also have to reduce that crush washer groove's diameter - so the drill-powered "lathe" will need to have at least some lateral stability....

Regarding retrofitting the piston, in my opinion you're wasting your time asking that type of question here about these Rockshox forks. I think you'll get more interest and actual usable advice if you ask this at a European forum like mtb-news.de ¯\(ツ)

There are several small German and French tuners who work to improve Rockshox motion control forks; Fast has the compression damper, Chickadeehill who does the shimmed CoMo base for the Revelation and Yari motion control damper, and it looks like MST in Germany will be offering something for the 35 Gold (they have an entry for it under "Rockshox" but only an empty page at this point). There's also DZ Suspension with various odds and ends, and Anyrace Compression Tuning who does custom drilling to the Yari MoCo's base to improve high speed flow.

Active on mtb-news are Symion of DZ Suspension with his custom Rockshox parts like a 32mm DebonAir-like air spring seal head (and he also sells a self-equalizing larger negative air volume "Highlander" tune for Manitou's old school air spring design on their McLeod and Mara shocks) and MarioJaneiro of MST with a replacement compression cartridge and a replacement rebound damper for the Yari and Revelation.
 
Thanks.
it looks like the stanchion ID is ~29.95mm the moco damper with o-ring removed is 29.5mm exactly.
the rebound piston needs to be ~29.65 to 29.75mm with the crush washer taking up the play of 0.2 to 0.3mm? That means taking off ~1mm from the rebound piston and the same from the washer groove?
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
Thanks.
it looks like the stanchion ID is ~29.95mm the moco damper with o-ring removed is 29.5mm exactly.
the rebound piston needs to be ~29.65 to 29.75mm with the crush washer taking up the play of 0.2 to 0.3mm? That means taking off ~1mm from the rebound piston and the same from the washer groove?
That should work, I guess...

Probably only feasible to try if you have the damper already or can get a take-off dirt cheap. That 35mm rebound damper runs US$80+ (unless you're in Germany), and that money will progress the fork from p*ss poor to sh*tty.
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
So, I had a Yari MoCo and rebound damper laying around.

And successfully modified the Yari's shimmed rebound damper to fit the 35 Gold. Using a threaded rod in a drill (with some gorilla tape between the threads and the damper piston or the seal head) and 100 grit followed by 200 grit I reduced the outer diameter of rebound damper piston from 30.7 mm to 29.5 mm and the rebound damper lower seal head diameter from 32.3 mm to 31.8 mm.

Also had to work on the crush washer groove, and used a 2 mm wide jeweler's file with the piston still spinning in the drill on the threaded rod, groove diameter reduced from 28.1 mm to 27.3 mm.

So, somewhat meaningless but proves it's possible to upgrade this fork's rebound damping to a Yari level with 18 clicks of LS rebound and an actual high speed circuit, for what that's worth.

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So, I had a Yari MoCo and rebound damper laying around.

And successfully modified the Yari's shimmed rebound damper to fit the 35 Gold. Using a threaded rod in a drill (with some gorilla tape between the threads and the damper piston or the seal head) and 100 grit followed by 200 grit I reduced the outer diameter of rebound damper piston from 30.7 mm to 29.5 mm and the rebound damper lower seal head diameter from 32.3 mm to 31.8 mm.

Also had to work on the crush washer groove, and used a 2 mm wide jeweler's file with the piston still spinning in the drill on the threaded rod, groove diameter reduced from 28.1 mm to 27.3 mm.

So, somewhat meaningless but proves it's possible to upgrade this fork's rebound damping to a Yari level with 18 clicks of LS rebound and an actual high speed circuit, for what that's worth.

View attachment 1921357

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View attachment 1921359

View attachment 1921360
Rete, you're my kind of guy... I am known as one of the cheapest guys on earth and will do anything to make poop work but I gave up on the 35 RL (I have my limits... lol!).
 
Discussion starter · #91 ·
it looks like the bushing moved over the foam ring
If that fork is still under warranty you'll probably have to get the lowers replaced.

If it's not under warranty or SRAM won't help you, I don't think a repair is possible. FYI, boost Pike, Revelation, Yari and Lyrik lowers also work with the 35 Gold uppers. BikeInn in Spain is a low price source (27.5 here).
 
my 35 gold had sticky problems and after rma it to the store they replaced the lowers. Now it appears that it's far better but it have lot of play. It behaves like i have play in the hub but it doesn't. If i press the brake hard and push back and forward , i can feel the play ( i placed my finger between the stanchion and fork arch, above dust wipers and i can feel the play is there). So i guess the top bushings are too loose now. I guess the Store won't accept any repairs for it , i'm more than sure that they will say it's ok and how it should be. Dunoo what to do
 
If that fork is still under warranty you'll probably have to get the lowers replaced.

If it's not under warranty or SRAM won't help you, I don't think a repair is possible. FYI, boost Pike, Revelation, Yari and Lyrik lowers also work with the 35 Gold uppers. BikeInn in Spain is a low price source (27.5 here).
i got under warranty whole new fork yesterday, it was really fast.
 
Discussion starter · #94 · (Edited)
Here's a video of a Russian removing the crappy bushings from a 35 Gold that basically became unusably stiff, and replacing them with some kind of aftermarket bushings.

My Russian is a little rusty (rusty as in I know what nyet, da and vodka means) but the auto-translate seems to point to the standard 10mm bushings being glued in with epoxy - and in this fork one bushing came loose, moved downwards and became so tight the fork could barely move.

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Discussion starter · #95 ·
my 35 gold had sticky problems and after rma it to the store they replaced the lowers. Now it appears that it's far better but it have lot of play. It behaves like i have play in the hub but it doesn't. If i press the brake hard and push back and forward , i can feel the play ( i placed my finger between the stanchion and fork arch, above dust wipers and i can feel the play is there). So i guess the top bushings are too loose now. I guess the Store won't accept any repairs for it , i'm more than sure that they will say it's ok and how it should be. Dunoo what to do
Take it back to the shop and insist....
 
So, I had a Yari MoCo and rebound damper laying around.

And successfully modified the Yari's shimmed rebound damper to fit the 35 Gold. Using a threaded rod in a drill (with some gorilla tape between the threads and the damper piston or the seal head) and 100 grit followed by 200 grit I reduced the outer diameter of rebound damper piston from 30.7 mm to 29.5 mm and the rebound damper lower seal head diameter from 32.3 mm to 31.8 mm.

Also had to work on the crush washer groove, and used a 2 mm wide jeweler's file with the piston still spinning in the drill on the threaded rod, groove diameter reduced from 28.1 mm to 27.3 mm.

So, somewhat meaningless but proves it's possible to upgrade this fork's rebound damping to a Yari level with 18 clicks of LS rebound and an actual high speed circuit, for what that's worth.

View attachment 1921357

View attachment 1921358

View attachment 1921359

View attachment 1921360
Might try this with my POS Recon - Measured up the 20121 Recon Silver RL stock port orifice damper last night and seems this mod may be possible but i have two remaining unknowns; you don't happen to know the overall rebound assembly total length and the OD of the rebound metal tube?
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Might try this with my POS Recon - Measured up the 20121 Recon Silver RL stock port orifice damper last night and seems this mod may be possible but i have two remaining unknowns; you don't happen to know the overall rebound assembly total length and the OD of the rebound metal tube?
Rebound metal tube?

I have several rebound dampers that will fit and I can measure, but not sure what you mean by rebound metal tube.
 
Rebound metal tube?

I have several rebound dampers that will fit and I can measure, but not sure what you mean by rebound metal tube.
The OD if the rebound damper metal shaft - I need to know the OD of this as the seal head on the RECON TK/RL is held captive by a plastic retaining washer rather than the more conventional internal circlip which of course forces me to use the existing TK/RL seal head rather than the one supplied with any replacement rebound damper assembly..
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
Might try this with my POS Recon - Measured up the 20121 Recon Silver RL stock port orifice damper last night and seems this mod may be possible but i have two remaining unknowns; you don't happen to know the overall rebound assembly total length and the OD of the rebound metal tube?
The OD if the rebound damper metal shaft - I need to know the OD of this as the seal head on the RECON TK/RL is held captive by a plastic retaining washer rather than the more conventional internal circlip which of course forces me to use the existing TK/RL seal head rather than the one supplied with any replacement rebound damper assembly..
If you were thinking of reducing the diameter of a 35mm fork's rebound damper (a Yari like I did, or a 35mm Revelation) - it won't work down to a 32mm steel stanchion. There's too much diameter to remove and the piston head doesn't have enough material; you'll run out of solid material next to the ports and destroy it.

The current 32mm Bluto + Reba rebound damper (11.4018.025.011) is shimmed as well, and the piston head is plastic. There are plenty of older shimmed 32mm rebound dampers as well, but that was a time when SRAM had some pride and made the piston from aluminium.

The Bluto/Reba rebound damper shaft (and other RockShox rebound damper shafts) are 12.5mm in diameter.

Here's the Bluto/Reba rebound damper, top, next to a 2010-2013 26"/27.5"/29" Revelation rebound damper (11.4015.545.030).

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The piston head diameters are:
- OD of the piston measured over the split glide ring: 27.7mm
- OD of the piston with the glide ring removed: 27.45mm
- OD of the glide ring channel: 23.9mm

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For what it's worth, the same measurements over the aluminium-piston 11.4018.025.011 are:
- OD of the piston measured over the split glide ring: 27.6mm
- OD of the piston with the glide ring removed: 27.08mm
- OD of the glide ring channel: 23.63mm

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