[kerpoise]

Has anyone managed to silence the internal cable routing from tapping inside the frame?

It's my rear shift cable that's tapping around inside.

I've popped a cable tie on the cable port, but it doesn't really hold it in place.

I've got some outer insulation, but the cable ports are too small to fit it in!

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[LMN]

I have a very thin foam insulation that I use. Works well.

 

[kerpoise]

I have a very thin foam insulation that I use. Works well.

Thanks LMN - How and where have you installed it?

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[redwarrior]

Did you have success?

Unfortunately, no. I misunderstood what you guys had mentioned. I was thinking the nut was removable from the frame. I had greased the axle & male threads on it. I did clean & grease the threads in the frame but it had no effect.

I'm wondering/hoping that maybe one of the bottom bracket bearings is moving slightly in its plastic cup. I'll be installing a Wheel MFG. thread together bottom bracket this weekend. Before that, I'll be trying a crankset from my gf's bike to rule that out. Maybe the pressed in spindle is the culprit? I doubt it but I'm about out of ideas at this point.

 

[LMN]

Unfortunately, no. I misunderstood what you guys had mentioned. I was thinking the nut was removable from the frame. I had greased the axle & male threads on it. I did clean & grease the threads in the frame but it had no effect.

I'm wondering/hoping that maybe one of the bottom bracket bearings is moving slightly in its plastic cup. I'll be installing a Wheel MFG. thread together bottom bracket this weekend. Before that, I'll be trying a crankset from my gf's bike to rule that out. Maybe the pressed in spindle is the culprit? I doubt it but I'm about out of ideas at this point.

It sounds like you have looked for just about everything. Does the bike make any noise when you are coasting and cycling the suspension?

 

[LMN]

Thanks LMN - How and where have you installed it?

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I put it over the shift and brake housing and then just ram it into the down tube.

Another trick is to pull the fork off and go through the head tube but then you have to re-thread from the inside and that is difficult!

 

[kerpoise]

I put it over the shift and brake housing and then just ram it into the down tube.

Another trick is to pull the fork off and go through the head tube but then you have to re-thread from the inside and that is difficult!

I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do, my tubing it too wide to fit in the frame ports.

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[kerpoise]

It sounds like you have looked for just about everything. Does the bike make any noise when you are coasting and cycling the suspension?

Very likely to be the BB. How old is it? DUB BBs last a few months for me being being annoying

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[redwarrior]

It sounds like you have looked for just about everything. Does the bike make any noise when you are coasting and cycling the suspension?

No, it only makes the sound while pedaling (sitting or standing) & mostly under high torque loads. When I'm just noodling, it's quiet.

 

[redwarrior]

Very likely to be the BB. How old is it? DUB BBs last a few months for me being being annoying

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It's the OE Shimano BB with about 1500 miles on it since late April. I hope that's what it turns out to be, the replacement should be here Friday.

 

[kerpoise]

It's the OE Shimano BB with about 1500 miles on it since late April. I hope that's what it turns out to be, the replacement should be here Friday.

Offft. Almost certainly. If it's not the main source it's gonna need replacing!

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[redwarrior]

Offft. Almost certainly. If it's not the main source it's gonna need replacing!

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I did remove, clean & grease the outside of the cups/inside of the shell before I reinstalled but who knows. Bearings weren't buttery smooth but they weren't notchy either. Either way, the Wheels MFG bb will be an upgrade!

 

[kerpoise]

I did remove, clean & grease the outside of the cups/inside of the shell before I reinstalled but who knows. Bearings weren't buttery smooth but they weren't notchy either. Either way, the Wheels MFG bb will be an upgrade!

Yeah, I'd suspect it's the bearings rather than the cups. A little bit dry, or a little bit of dirt ingress can make them easily noisy. Still - it's a simple fix if it's them!

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[WR304]

My 2020 M10 TR has a creak I've yet to be able to track down & it's driving me insane!!! It actually sounds like it's coming from the rear wheel but it happens with 2 different wheels so that rules out cassettes, spokes, etc. It happens whether I'm sitting or standing & put down a fair amount of power -pedaling at low force, it's quiet. I've removed the derailleur hanger greased it, greased where the wheel sits, I've greased the derailleur mounting bolt, I've removed all bearing hardware & greased all of it -no bearings are frozen or spun in the frame. I've removed the bottom bracket & greased it. I removed both shock mounting bolts & greased them & where the bushings contact the frame. I removed the direct mount chainring from the crank & lubed that interface & the creak persists. I can see no visible cracks in the frame -I'm pretty light at 145lbs & I don't ride very aggressively so I highly doubt I've broken the frame...

Any thoughts? That sound is driving me bonkers!

The problem with a full suspension bike is that creaks can come from multiple sources and be hard to track down as the sound can travel through the frame. It's usual to blame the suspension pivots but it can often be something else. What you might find is that when you're pedaling hard it's making the suspension bob up and down, which is then causing a noise somewhere else. Does it still creak with the suspension fully locked out?

With my rear thru axle it's got loctite thread locker on the threads and carbon assembly paste all over the non drive side where it presses against the frame to try and stop it from coming loose again. It's done 22 hours riding since then. I just checked it now and the thru axle has stayed fully tight. It should do as it's just about glued in! :eekster:

If you're using the original plastic press fit Shimano bottom bracket that's a definite possibility for creaking. The Wheels Manufacturing thread together bottom bracket in my bike has been good so far. It's been in there since new and I've had no issues with it at all as yet.

The frame / seatpost and seatpost / saddle interface can often lead to creaks also.

Some things that have been noisy on my bike were the water bottle cages. Those bottle cage bolts have to be fully tightened down (no movement) or they can carbon "crack" creak and also rattle when there's a full bottle onboard. When I changed the cages a few weeks ago I hadn't tightened the bolts enough initially and they were making a real racket, particularly the Fidlock seat tube mount. Tightening the bolts quietened them right down.

The other thing to look at that has been noisy on my bike, and giving off a real loud carbon "crack" creaking noise are the plastic covers over the internal routing ports. They press against the carbon fibre of the frame so if they're loose it gives a carbon "crack" creak. As the rear suspension compresses and extends it pulls on the cables running through the frame which then makes the plastic covers move and creak if they're loose. The 3mm allen bolt on the lower port of the down tube (where the cables exit the frame) was a little loose and creaking until I tightened it. Only tighten don't fully undo this as there's a nut that could fall out inside the frame!

There are also the plastic covers at the top of the down tube (where the cables enter the frame) and the plastic cover for the brake hose on the inside of the non drive side chainstay. My UK spec bike has the rear brake lever on the left so the rear brake hose goes into the right hand drive side port on the frame downtube. When I was checking the port covers this upper right one had somehow got twisted perhaps as surprisingly there was lots of pressure on it. When I undid the small allen bolt to take it off the carbon "crack" sounds from just that little plastic cover were loud too. I put grease round the edges of the little plastic cover.

Another possibility for creaking, that I haven't had on this bike but did have on my old Specialized Epics, was that the rear shock needed servicing. The bike was creaky when pedalling and the seals on the rear shock shaft were dry I think. After a suspension service the bike was quiet again.

Rattle wise the stock finned brake pads that came with my Shimano XT M8120 brakes rattled in the calipers. I changed the pads for Swisstop pads a while ago and that helped make the bike a bit quieter.

The rear brake hose on my bike rattles a bit in the frame too.

 

[Mark16q]

Finally found a nasty creak on my oiz. Everyone riding near me said it was front end but headset, bars and stem getting TLC yielded no change. Of course it never happened at home but finally narrowed it down to the swing arm pivot at the bottom bracket. I didn’t even pull it out completely, just backed it out enough to grease it and tightened back up. Creak is gone.

 

[redwarrior]

The problem with a full suspension bike is that creaks can come from multiple sources and be hard to track down as the sound can travel through the frame. It's usual to blame the suspension pivots but it can often be something else. What you might find is that when you're pedaling hard it's making the suspension bob up and down, which is then causing a noise somewhere else. Does it still creak with the suspension fully locked out?

With my rear thru axle it's got loctite thread locker on the threads and carbon assembly paste all over the non drive side where it presses against the frame to try and stop it from coming loose again. It's done 22 hours riding since then. I just checked it now and the thru axle has stayed fully tight. It should do as it's just about glued in! :eekster:

If you're using the original plastic press fit Shimano bottom bracket that's a definite possibility for creaking. The Wheels Manufacturing thread together bottom bracket in my bike has been good so far. It's been in there since new and I've had no issues with it at all as yet.

The frame / seatpost and seatpost / saddle interface can often lead to creaks also.

Some things that have been noisy on my bike were the water bottle cages. Those bottle cage bolts have to be fully tightened down (no movement) or they can carbon "crack" creak and also rattle when there's a full bottle onboard. When I changed the cages a few weeks ago I hadn't tightened the bolts enough initially and they were making a real racket, particularly the Fidlock seat tube mount. Tightening the bolts quietened them right down.

The other thing to look at that has been noisy on my bike, and giving off a real loud carbon "crack" creaking noise are the plastic covers over the internal routing ports. They press against the carbon fibre of the frame so if they're loose it gives a carbon "crack" creak. As the rear suspension compresses and extends it pulls on the cables running through the frame which then makes the plastic covers move and creak if they're loose. The 3mm allen bolt on the lower port of the down tube (where the cables exit the frame) was a little loose and creaking until I tightened it. Only tighten don't fully undo this as there's a nut that could fall out inside the frame!

There are also the plastic covers at the top of the down tube (where the cables enter the frame) and the plastic cover for the brake hose on the inside of the non drive side chainstay. My UK spec bike has the rear brake lever on the left so the rear brake hose goes into the right hand drive side port on the frame downtube. When I was checking the port covers this upper right one had somehow got twisted perhaps as surprisingly there was lots of pressure on it. When I undid the small allen bolt to take it off the carbon "crack" sounds from just that little plastic cover were loud too. I put grease round the edges of the little plastic cover.

Another possibility for creaking, that I haven't had on this bike but did have on my old Specialized Epics, was that the rear shock needed servicing. The bike was creaky when pedalling and the seals on the rear shock shaft were dry I think. After a suspension service the bike was quiet again.

Rattle wise the stock finned brake pads that came with my Shimano XT M8120 brakes rattled in the calipers. I changed the pads for Swisstop pads a while ago and that helped make the bike a bit quieter.

The rear brake hose on my bike rattles a bit in the frame too.

Thanks for all the advice! Mine is creaking when the suspension is both open & locked out. I checked & tightened both sets of bottle cage bolts & the cable guide inside the downtube. I will definitely check the ports where the cables enter up toward the handlebars, too. I'm really hoping the bottom bracket is the issue. I'll know one way or the other by tomorrow morning, as the part arrives this evening.

 

[redwarrior]

Finally found a nasty creak on my oiz. Everyone riding near me said it was front end but headset, bars and stem getting TLC yielded no change. Of course it never happened at home but finally narrowed it down to the swing arm pivot at the bottom bracket. I didn't even pull it out completely, just backed it out enough to grease it and tightened back up. Creak is gone.

Good find! I had mine completely apart (can't quite figure out why the sleeve/spacer piece has holes in it other than maybe weight savings??) cleaned & greased everything but unfortunately, that was not the issue.

 

[redwarrior]

So I installed the bottom bracket & the creak is still there. I hunted around, pulled the chain guide thinking it was the issue somehow but it wasn’t. But I ended up figuring it out...

I tried another wheel again. It was mostly gone but I could hear the spokes winding up a bit on the wheel I put in which is very close to what I hear on my wheel. Turns out it’s my xtr cassette. I don’t know exactly where it’s coming from but I dropped chain lube onto every pin I could get to. I had cleaned & greased the free hub splines when I started this search. If it’s not the pins, it may be the spacers between the higher gears. I’ll pull it apart later & see what I can do to quiet it down.

Thanks to all for the suggestions & help trying to get this noise sorted. Much appreciated!


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[WR304]

So I installed the bottom bracket & the creak is still there. I hunted around, pulled the chain guide thinking it was the issue somehow but it wasn't. But I ended up figuring it out...

I tried another wheel again. It was mostly gone but I could hear the spokes winding up a bit on the wheel I put in which is very close to what I hear on my wheel. Turns out it's my xtr cassette. I don't know exactly where it's coming from but I dropped chain lube onto every pin I could get to. I had cleaned & greased the free hub splines when I started this search. If it's not the pins, it may be the spacers between the higher gears. I'll pull it apart later & see what I can do to quiet it down.

Thanks to all for the suggestions & help trying to get this noise sorted. Much appreciated!

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I thought you'd tried swapping the entire rear wheel over to one with a different cassette to eliminate that possibility?

With the Shimano Microspline cassettes have you checked that there's a small white spacer behind the cassette?

https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-...rs-derailleurs-cranks/xtr-12-speed-cassette-aluminum-cogs-creaking-1147443.html

When you've tightened down the casette lockring how tight have you done it? There's a difference between getting them super tight (i.e. using a long tool with lots of leverage) and just getting the cassette tight-ish where there can potentially be a little play still between the different sprocket carriers.

 

[redwarrior]

I thought you'd tried swapping the entire rear wheel over to one with a different cassette to eliminate that possibility?

With the Shimano Microspline cassettes have you checked that there's a small white spacer behind the cassette?

https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-...rs-derailleurs-cranks/xtr-12-speed-cassette-aluminum-cogs-creaking-1147443.html

When you've tightened down the casette lockring how tight have you done it? There's a difference between getting them super tight (i.e. using a long tool with lots of leverage) and just getting the cassette tight-ish where there can potentially be a little play still between the different sprocket carriers.

I did try another wheel & I could hear a similar noise which was spokes winding up, I think. I feel like a dummy for sure, though!

I do not have that washer between cassette & freehub. I did not see it in the package when I installed the cassette. I still have the box so I will see it it's in there. I've got the cassette lock ring pretty darn tight, though.

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