Top guides are cheap and weigh nothing so why wouldn't you.

 

Especially if you're running a bash guard. A lower guide is a bit of overkill though.

 

3000+ miles of singletrack and never had a chain come off...lots of debris around here too. Bike came with GX Eagle 12spd and an x-sync chainring. I put an MPR bash guard on it to protect chain/chain ring from all the rock piles and obstacles we deal with but no guide needed.

I recently converted to 11spd with Shimano der/shifter but stayed with 11spd GX cassette and a new x-sync chainring. Same result...no chain drops EVER. Tooth profile is a little different on the x-sync chainrings (looks like a shark tooth vs traditional tooth design). Combine that with narrow/wide design they hold chains great.

 

3000+ miles of singletrack and never had a chain come off...lots of debris around here too. Bike came with GX Eagle 12spd and an x-sync chainring. I put an MPR bash guard on it to protect chain/chain ring from all the rock piles and obstacles we deal with but no guide needed.

I recently converted to 11spd with Shimano der/shifter but stayed with 11spd GX cassette and a new x-sync chainring. Same result...no chain drops EVER. Tooth profile is a little different on the x-sync chainrings (looks like a shark tooth vs traditional tooth design). Combine that with narrow/wide design they hold chains great.

Similar experience here with 6000+ miles on 1x systems with n/w chainrings. No guides, just a bash guard to protect the chain & ring. Personally I've found no reason to clutter my bikes unnecessarily with guides.
=sParty

 

Good feedback so far. Right now guides are mounted. I guess I'll have to wait till riding season again and just put it to the test.

My hesitation with running without is I have had some unpleasant chain mishaps with my 2x11. The ones I recall were me screwing up ( falling off or nearly so ) and back peddling while the chain is hung up on something. I don't recall ever having a chain problem just riding.

Thanks
Joel

 

Chains definetly stay put longer on a 1 by set up. But they can fall off if you get real roudy.

As stated above a top guid usually covers it and weighs nothing.

 

It depends on the bike and the terrain you'll be riding. My hardtail runs a front derailleur and no chain guide, yet rarely drops the chain. Very rarely.

I tried omitting the chainguide on my full suspension bike (1 x 10 with a narrow-wide chainring) and it dropped the chain at least 5 times on the first ride, on only mildly technical terrain. Needless to say, the guide went back on immediately.

 

Ive got an MRP top guide and a taco on the bottom. They are so much less complex than in the "old" days. Next to nothing as far as weight. Sure seems like cheap insurance, although I never dropped one on my 1 x 11 on the previous bike without. I'd definitely run a bash guard/taco on the bottom though.

 

My 1x11 trail bike came with a MRP SXg and I’ve never lost a chain with it. I’ve had to stop and pull sticks out of it, usually the thing more vine like stuff that just gets wrapped up into everything.

 

My Calling came with one, never a issue. Always seemed like a good idea My hard tail and my other fully I occasionally dropped. PIA . Chain guides are cheap and easy to install, so I put one on both, haven’t drooped my chain yet
I’ve got bash guards on all three.

 

Without one, the only chain I've dropped in recent times was during an enduro race when I forgot to turn the clutch back on after installing the wheel. Several thousand vertical foot descents of gnar DH and it never comes off. Even back in the day, chainguides would occasionally jam, so they weren't 100% perfect, but now not even needed.

 

Kind of humorous to read replies in this thread that say, essentially, "My bike has a chainguide and I've never dropped my chain so why not have one?"

Meanwhile others say, essentially, "I run a narrow/wide chainring and clutch derailleur and have never dropped my chain so why add a chainguide?"

Chainguides are one form of chain retention device. So are narrow/wide chainrings. So are clutch derailleurs. So is proper setup, as in chain length & B-tension adjustment.

How many chain retention devices do we want? How many do we need? IME a n/w chainring with a clutch der and proper setup get the job done. More is belt + suspenders. But that's me. Not saying others are doing it wrong... just wondering.

We each create the machine of our choice. If belt & suspenders is your style, add the chainguide. But I would ask: why not try without first? The chainguide may prove superfluous.
=sParty

 

yeah, it really comes down to just how rowdy you're getting on the bike. I originally didn't run a guide when I switched to a 1x system but there are a couple of trails here that are fast and rough enough to throw a chain. Of course, that requires that someone is willing to keep their fingers off the brakes. . . . at slower speeds it's not an issue.

 

I still drop a chain 3-5 times a season or so. I think how hard you ride, how close your chain stay/chain play together, front ring size, and how chundery your terrain is all factor in.

On my current bike dropping a chain harms nothing. If I had less clearance and/or my chain got jammed or sucked in I'd %100 run a top guide. I'm of the opinion the simplest way is always the best way and have little reason to run one currently. I've had chain guides come loose, bend, twist, rip off, get jammed with trail debris, rub, etc., so they're not fail proof.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk

 

I have a new carbon stumpy that came with upper chain guide and debated taking it off because like every one else, never dropped a chain with a n/w chain ring. I left it on only to help protect the carbon frame from the chain just in case.

 

I have only dropped chain when a small stick has been thrown up between the chain and ring. If a chain guide could stop this I would consider it.

 

Sticks caught between the ring teeth and the guide is one thing that can twist or mangle a guide. I've discovered that it depends on the stick and the guide. The style that clamps around the BB can spin if the stick is big enough. That causes some, usually cosmetic damage. It typically requires a trail side "readjustment". Hefty guides may hold up to bigger sticks, but may still get tweaked enough to require a stop.

Lately on carbon frame I have just been adding a strip of protective tape to the BB where the chain would land unless the bike already has a guide. I personally think that the right mix of parts, proper setup, and maintenance has a lot more to do with proper chain retention than a guide. Riding with kids I probably saw 200 chain drops in 2019 with many repeats on the same bike. I can't think of even one case where I couldn't spot the root cause in a 30 second inspection. Clutch off, bad chain line, severely worn parts, bent ring, mix of "speeds", missing teeth on ring ... you name it.

 

I like to run a chainguide because it means I don't have to use the clutch on the rear derailleur. Shifting feels better with the clutch off.

 

Ding ding ding!

 

The bash guard I put on had top and bottom guides on. Everything works well so I'm inclined to leave them on, the top is non contact and the lower is on a roller and seems pretty drag free. As I mentioned earlier, I have dropped chains before, various circumstances. The issues I have had have been something forcing the chain off, not just popping form slapping around ( though that has happened before too ). If the guides keep the chain from coming off in those cases, it's worth it to me.

Thanks for all the feedback, interesting opinions, mine will stay.

 

What are some of your experiences?

I've been running 1x for years. With a NW ring and a clutch derailleur my chain doesn't come off. Run a guide if you want, but I don't think it is needed.

 

I have only dropped the chain twice in 3 years, but last week had a bad drop on a rough downhill. Dropped the chain, then somehow the chain bounced off the cassette and into the spokes. Rear wheel jammed, 3 broken spokes, 11 damaged spokes, bent hanger and trashed derailleur!

May put a top guide on, but feel it is really a freak occurrence....

 

Barely 100 miles and my Loki slipped and dropped the chain 1x12 GX Eagle. It happens... On my DV9 1x12 XX1 Eagle no chain drops as of yet. Similar numbers.

 

Your bike doesn't need to have a single chainring or have an oval chainring. It depends more on the modality you practice. In trail or enduro, more bumps, jumps, vibrations can cause the chain to come off, this is where a chain guide should give you more security.

When do you need an MTB chain guide?

On the trail, enduro, or downhill modalities, an MTB chain guide can prevent accidents, scratches, or damage to your bike.

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