not if they were mine! Hell mine have about a dozen that look like that and mine are chinese. If you're really worried I'd epoxy and sand. Riding in the desert and colorado I expect to get 5 years out of a set of carbon wheels and I think about replacing if they haven't cracked by then.

 

I dig the epoxy idea. I might do that if the MFG says it's good.

They look more like normal surface scratches

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It's much deeper than your usual surface scratch. 1-2 mm deep.

 

They look more like normal surface scratches

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Epoxy for sure! Wet sand it out smooth and it could disappear...

 

I'm curious what the manufacturer said. The scuff doesn't look that bad but the stress fractures are more the issue. IMO
You might call Frank at Spyder Composites (949) 355-1045 and get his take on it.

 

Fine IMO.

Someone up here ran an obviously cracked rim all last season and was fine. I cracked a rim pretty bad due to too-low pressure and put a tire in it and rode 7 miles of hard downhill with no issues, but yours just looks like surface marring.

 

Yup, and all confirmed by mfg:

"I'd just keep an eye on it and look for any changes over time. I'd recommend putting some clear fingernail polish over it to keep that top layer of carbon from delaminating. I suspect those spiderwebs are in the protective clear coat finish and nothing to worry about."

What Epoxy do folks suggest?

 

IME, fingernail polish wears off in a few rides. The type of expoy doesn't really matter IMO, most any epoxy you can buy is going to bond to that just fine.

Now that I look at the pics again, I'm pretty sure I put scratches like that on my XC (retired from two seasons of enduro) rims that I've built up 3 times now. I did sand down and re-paint them this last time, but I beat them to hell last year in Colorado and Arizona, not to mention DHing and riding hard here in AK.

 

Laminating epoxy would be best. It does not have fillers that make ordinary epoxies thick and little bit rubbery. It is thin and wicks into cracks. In US West Systems should be easily available. Take the Handy Repair Pack from WEST SYSTEM | Repair Kits You only need resin and hardener not the filler or fiberglass from this kit.

 

Epoxy gets my vote.

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Save yourself some trouble and leave it alone. Nothing is going to spead. Those cracks are just in the clear coat. My rims have about 20 gouges like that.

 

Moved my Teocallis to the rear when that happened, just covered it w/ tape so debris didn't get in and it can be checked for future failure

 

Wouldn't permanently cover it imho, it needs to be checked at least 2 or 3x a year...and damaged= ALWAYS moved to the rear

 

. . . and damaged= ALWAYS moved to the rear

if I were going to go to the hassle of relacing a wheel, I'm sure not going to replace with a beat up rim. Regardless, I would have thought it gets moved to the front, where it will take much less abuse.

Chances are high that I will do nothing other than keep an eye on it.

 

Yep. Do nothing.

 

Mine has a bandaid on it

 

Rub it with Robitussin

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Preparation H is more like it based on some of the responses.

Rebuild two wheels to move a scratched rim to the rear? Wtf?

 

Nothing beats WEST SYSTEM, amazing stuff, been using it on boats and other stuff for years, recently bought the plastic repair kit (doesn't come with fibres or such, just epoxy and hardener) and used it stick back on cable guides on a carbon road frame, were still there up until someone stole the bike. Definitely would not just put nail polish on it.

 

Or leavit if you like yur dentist

 

I ran this obviously cracked carbon rear rim for over a year in this condition. The crack went all the way through and even included a nice flat spot. I am not a hucker but I never held back while riding it. The only reason I finally switched out was it would no longer hold tubeless. Now, this is probably not normal and I am not saying anyone else could do this. However it does show that carbon wheels are remarkably strong and resilient. The rim is now pulling duty as an obnoxious race bell shaker.

 

That is just your rims becoming adult.

 

I like the Epoxy repair idea. In regards to West Systems - is it the 650-8(a & b) GFLEX stuff?
I've used plenty of two-part epoxies. They are all good, but have never experienced anything thin enough to seep into narrower voids.
Appreciated!

 

Yes, it's the G-flex stuff. Works so good, so strong. I personally couldn't believe it held those small, alu cable stops on against the tension they would get, but it did and I've used it for doing the same thing you need it for now on Ibis rims and has worked well there too.



Tis, true, once you realise that if you have some patience, it really is very cool to build your own wheels and then once you have built a few sets for yourself and gained confidence, then you'll most likely end up with the "fancy tools" and building for friends

I never did either. Funny thing is, once you know how you'll find yourself doing it more often than you ever thought you would.

I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.

 

It's a battle scar. Adds character. Do nothing.

 

Hmmm. I've found that once I got the hang of it and built a few sets of wheels it got really tedious. Learning it and proving I could build a nice set of wheels was rewarding, but after a few sets it just became work.

 

Ocular physical therapy, good stuff

 

Windex cures everything.

 

1/8 slice avocado
1/2 cup almond milk
1 whole banana
Elmer's glue

1. Blend until all chunks are taken out. (Can add an egg to make it thicker)
2. Stick in the oven for 45 minutes
3. Stir rigorously
4. Get a spatula and apply to wheel
(Can use lean meat for added protein and to increase strength of the mixture)


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1/8 slice avocado
1/2 cup almond milk
1 whole banana
Elmer's glue

1. Blend until all chunks are taken out. (Can add an egg to make it thicker)
2. Stick in the oven for 45 minutes
3. Stir rigorously
4. Get a spatula and apply to wheel
(Can use lean meat for added protein and to increase strength of the mixture)

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Is the oven for pre-cooking the mix or for curing it once it's on the wheel? Because...I don't think I can fit the whole wheel in my oven.

 

I've been riding wheels I've built for a few years now.

I only have a cheap Park Tool truing stand, a spoke wrench, and an internal nipple driver. Made a bladed spoke holder out of a 1x1x1/2" piece of hardwood; couple of good pulls with a hacksaw and it has a slot deep enough to hold a CX-Ray. Bought Roger Musson's book, too.

Total investment is less than $100.

I use my ears and a careful finger pluck of the spokes to judge tension. Wheels haven't fallen apart yet, or come untrue, so I must be doing it well enough.

 

I like numbers so i got a park tension meter. It works great and you can use their online app to plot a curve and get some statistics. I also use the feedback pro truing stand, really good spoke wrench and lindseed oil. I went with D-Light spokes for the added strength and simplicity of not having to worry about twisting cxray spokes. Its easy although i did take many many hrs doing it right. You'll appreciate your wheel more and give you a better understanding of how things work so you can fix it in a pinch. Youtube makes us all experts now

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