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Discussion starter · #21 ·
. . . and damaged= ALWAYS moved to the rear
if I were going to go to the hassle of relacing a wheel, I'm sure not going to replace with a beat up rim. Regardless, I would have thought it gets moved to the front, where it will take much less abuse.

Chances are high that I will do nothing other than keep an eye on it.
 
I ran this obviously cracked carbon rear rim for over a year in this condition. The crack went all the way through and even included a nice flat spot. I am not a hucker but I never held back while riding it. The only reason I finally switched out was it would no longer hold tubeless. Now, this is probably not normal and I am not saying anyone else could do this. However it does show that carbon wheels are remarkably strong and resilient. The rim is now pulling duty as an obnoxious race bell shaker.
 
if I were going to go to the hassle of relacing a wheel, I'm sure not going to replace with a beat up rim. Regardless, I would have thought it gets moved to the front, where it will take much less abuse.

Chances are high that I will do nothing other than keep an eye on it.
I build my wheels, rarely let someone else do it...does not take long at all ymmv.

If 1-2 mm are missing on your rim, just how much material do you think is left under the rim bed there? Not saying you're wrong, but my Teocallis are thin there, and losing pressure out front is just not fun to think about while riding certain spots
 
I like the Epoxy repair idea. In regards to West Systems - is it the 650-8(a & b) GFLEX stuff?
I've used plenty of two-part epoxies. They are all good, but have never experienced anything thin enough to seep into narrower voids.
Appreciated!
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I build my wheels, rarely let someone else do it...does not take long at all ymmv.

If 1-2 mm are missing on your rim, just how much material do you think is left under the rim bed there? Not saying you're wrong, but my Teocallis are thin there, and losing pressure out front is just not fun to think about while riding certain spots
I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.
 
I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.
Really, not that much you "need". You can use your frame/fork as a wheel stand. Dishing is a little trickier, but you can use zip-ties and similar devices to do it. Spoke wrench. Nice to have a tension meter, but IME, not critical (some will defend to the death that you need one). It does take a little experience to figure out the right tension, so it might be a decent short cut to get the tension meter, but all in all, it's not a lot of stuff.
 
I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.
I never did either. Funny thing is, once you know how you'll find yourself doing it more often than you ever thought you would.
 
Yes, it's the G-flex stuff. Works so good, so strong. I personally couldn't believe it held those small, alu cable stops on against the tension they would get, but it did and I've used it for doing the same thing you need it for now on Ibis rims and has worked well there too.

I like the Epoxy repair idea. In regards to West Systems - is it the 650-8(a & b) GFLEX stuff?
I've used plenty of two-part epoxies. They are all good, but have never experienced anything thin enough to seep into narrower voids.
Appreciated!
Tis, true, once you realise that if you have some patience, it really is very cool to build your own wheels and then once you have built a few sets for yourself and gained confidence, then you'll most likely end up with the "fancy tools" and building for friends ;)
I never did either. Funny thing is, once you know how you'll find yourself doing it more often than you ever thought you would.
I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.
 
Hmmm. I've found that once I got the hang of it and built a few sets of wheels it got really tedious. Learning it and proving I could build a nice set of wheels was rewarding, but after a few sets it just became work.
 
1/8 slice avocado
1/2 cup almond milk
1 whole banana
Elmer's glue

1. Blend until all chunks are taken out. (Can add an egg to make it thicker)
2. Stick in the oven for 45 minutes
3. Stir rigorously
4. Get a spatula and apply to wheel
(Can use lean meat for added protein and to increase strength of the mixture)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've never built wheels, and although would like to learn, don't think I'd get the return on investment from the tools. I see your point about a front vs. rear failure.
And pretty sure that's how the majority of riders think about it, but it really is just a ruler attached to the frame or fork w/ couple rubberbands...mini clothes pin to see spoke twist
 
I've been riding wheels I've built for a few years now.

I only have a cheap Park Tool truing stand, a spoke wrench, and an internal nipple driver. Made a bladed spoke holder out of a 1x1x1/2" piece of hardwood; couple of good pulls with a hacksaw and it has a slot deep enough to hold a CX-Ray. Bought Roger Musson's book, too.

Total investment is less than $100.

I use my ears and a careful finger pluck of the spokes to judge tension. Wheels haven't fallen apart yet, or come untrue, so I must be doing it well enough.
 
I like numbers so i got a park tension meter. It works great and you can use their online app to plot a curve and get some statistics. I also use the feedback pro truing stand, really good spoke wrench and lindseed oil. I went with D-Light spokes for the added strength and simplicity of not having to worry about twisting cxray spokes. Its easy although i did take many many hrs doing it right. You'll appreciate your wheel more and give you a better understanding of how things work so you can fix it in a pinch. Youtube makes us all experts now

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
1/8 slice avocado
1/2 cup almond milk
1 whole banana
Elmer's glue

1. Blend until all chunks are taken out. (Can add an egg to make it thicker)
2. Stick in the oven for 45 minutes
3. Stir rigorously
4. Get a spatula and apply to wheel
(Can use lean meat for added protein and to increase strength of the mixture)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is the oven for pre-cooking the mix or for curing it once it's on the wheel? Because...I don't think I can fit the whole wheel in my oven.
 
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