[drapeado]

I had a go with diferent rear sags and tried 2 of the geometry options. The bike is a beast with the slack mode, but after a couple of rides i reverted back to neutral, and i definitly love it this way. I get less pedal strikes, it climbs better and on the way down, it s poppy, super fun and more nimble, makes me smile more, so it s a no brainer. I ll save the slack settings for bike park.

Anyway, still searching for the ideal sag. I ve seen the chart at the banshee bikes blog, where 30% sag is equivalent to 17,5mm of stroke compression, doesnt explain but i assume this is for the cane creek. On my rear shock, a monarch debonair plus the 30% mark measures 19mm.
I know this isnt rocket science but i am curious for such a big diference in milimeters. I am using the shock mark, with good feeling, nice small bump, only bottoms out at bigger drops / jumps and i switch to "firm" to climb steep fire roads.
Almost perfect bike, just starting to save money to get 27.5 wheels.

 

[builttoride]

The shock sag marks do not represent the suspension sag (% of travel of bike used) due to the fact that the suspension is not perfectly linear, but progressive, so to compress the suspension 10mm at start of travel uses less shock stroke than compressing 10mm of suspension at end of travel.

19mm of shock compression = around 33% suspension sag

 

[drapeado]

Sorry, english is not my born language.
So, let s say i would want 25% sag. The 63mm divided by 4 doesnt apply?
Damm, now i just want to set it again and go for a ride

 

[builttoride]

Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.


It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.

 

[Phsx2]

So if I wanted 28% would that be 16.24mm?

 

[drapeado]

Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.

It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.

Thank you, i wasnt understanding why it wasnt equal. To be completely linear we would be talking about an old single pivot or sometinhg?!!
But i cant stop thinking that it s a lot harder to ride bumpy trails with your recomendation, because my shock has no regulations what so ever, it has the medium original compression tune and the possibility of rubber rings. But if it s already so hard there s no point to put them.
Wish i had a cane creek to try it.
Anyway, even if i am using 30 or 33 sag percentage i am having a great time riding the bike, on the very first ride i kinda felt it was my bike for years, no worries to adapt, just go. Amazing frame!!!

 

[dirtrider76]

Ride the shock in open position instead of the trail or pedal setting. It's got less compression damping in open.


IMHO the CCDBA is the way to go on a Rune.

 

[drapeado]

Here at Europe a bos kirk is also a great option, pricey though...

 

[builttoride]

These are only our recommended sags, everyone is different and should set the shocks up the way that work best for them and the trails they ride.

Regarding the volume spacers... you will actually make the initial travel feel more plush by adding volume spacers and running same sag as less air pressure will be required to hit same sag point and you will have more bottom out resistance.

 

[drapeado]

Yeah, only a starting base. As i said i m happy with the bike, i was just curious about those diferent measures for sag.
Thx again, i have some red spacers and i ll try it someday, the bottom out is not an issue, i only use all the travel on the bigger stuff, if there s anything to improve it would be some plushness for small bumps.

Next weekend i ll tell my buddies, that the guy that designed my bike actually gave me some set up tips
Downside is i ll have to pay the beers...

 

[windv]

photos for people with strong hearts...

...the best adjustable drop out system

rune lines

simple black paint

earth trying to get in and dance with the grease

 

[drapeado]

Hi guys
have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".

 

[Boom King]

Hi guys
have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".

Best bang for buck upgrade for the CTD is a Vorsprung Corset. I would do that before shelling out on a CCDB.

 

[ryanmj]

Question for anyone running a ccdb air

A few of us with Darksides needed to downsize the air can from the Xv to the standard because we were blowing through the travel too fast due to the linear spring curve. Is this the situation with the rune or is the Xv the way to go?

 

[Junersun]

I am 200+ lbs and ride some chunky terrain. A high volume air can for me didn't work at all. Even with my x2, I've had to put the max volume spacers to prevent blowing through my travel...


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[dirtrider76]

225 here and using a standard can no spacers on my CCBD. My Rune mostly is a park bike now but I rode it the same way on the trails with good luck.

 

[Junersun]

Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...


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[ScottieM8]

Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...

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Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.

 

[mik8yu]

View attachment 1104571 View attachment 1104570

That's my XL rune with 222x70mm shock, rocking something like 178mm of rear travel. BB is 344mm high. It feels great. I am running the vivid with ~35% sag. The rear triangle doesn't touch the seat tube when bottomed out. it's 14,9kg with the synthace W40 26" rims(150x12 rear axle and 20mm front) and fox van 36 180mm fork. guide brakes and 1x10 shimano drivetrain.

will try fox float ctd 216 later on to see how both configurations compare...

Removed the original paint and will be anodizing it soon in black, and than spraying some details with paint. Can't wait to see it ready

How did you remove the original paint and anodize it in black? Am thinking of some new colors... my rune has been left idling for too long............ it is not getting ridden at all for the past year! Must get on with this project. Is it safe for frame integrity to have the paint removed chemically?

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[Junersun]

Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.

Were you running it in the slack mode? I'm thinking in neutral setting so it doesn't take out too badly

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