Anyone tried these fancy pads? What do you think about them?
https://mtxbraking.com/product/red-label-brake-pads/
https://mtxbraking.com/product/red-label-brake-pads/
MTX Red Label pads
Nat
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Since I started this thread I’ve used a few sets of the MTX red pads and some of the gold pads too. The reds have nice bite and indeed function quietly. The golds make more noise but have excellent heat management. I install the gold pads for DH park riding. Overall I’ve been really happy with both compounds.
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I couldn't find the Shimano D03S for my trek rail 7, but I'm glad I couldn't because it led me to the MTX. I went with the gold and they are awesome. I just put them on and rode them yesterday and they have great breaking power. They weren't much more money than the shimano's would have been if anyone had them. Now we will see how long they last. My 50 pound bike wore the shimano's down pretty fast.
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Hey Rockman - you might be a good candidate for the Gold Label up front - keep the Red Label in back. Typically the Gold is earmarked for eMTBs, "bigger" riders, or super-fast advanced-level riders and racers. Message me if you'd like to try a set of Gold. (On the dyno, Gold does indeed make more power, but we find that the Red Labels suit the widest range of riders for all of its positive traits. Gold will easily go toe-to-toe in terms of power with a typical sintered brake pad).
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Sure, PM sent. I'm at the end of this vid on the Evil Offering with the red Lyrik but gives an idea of the steep staircase technical section where stopping power is key after heating up on the upper high speed portion. Whole thing is a 7 to 8 min DH for me.
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I've only run sintered or organic sram pads with the Codes on this bike. Rotors are Formula. Organics don't last long and still make some noise. The red label is 0 noise and the modulation is much better than sram sintered. Haven't gotten them wet. Sedona or Flagstaff haven't really seen rain in what seems like years.
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The red Lyik on the blue looks really good by the way. We'll get your Golds on the way today - those might be the perfect mix for you and still should be quiet.
Since you're riding in that environment often, you may get that "warble" sound after a long day - thats about all you'll get for noise, but a quick wash and it'll get that fine dust out of there and set things back to zero.
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How'd you get on with the gold pads? I'm looking for something that'll do better with brake fade on my MT-7s. Any feedback is appreciated.
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I did install the gold pads leaving the red in the rear. They indeed have more stopping power and are almost as quiet as the red ones. I did get a warble sound once but a quick pull and clean took care of that. Noise is really a non-issue. Wear has been pretty good as well. I'm at 400 miles or so and lots of life left.
I've done a few big descents on them including a Lemmon Drop in Tucson (Bugs>Prison Camp>La Milagrosa down) which indeed is burly and also a scorching shuttle run on Gold Ridge #47 in Mazatzals east of Phoenix which drops 3000' in 6 miles. No fade. These pads rock. I'll never run sintered again.
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Thanks for the info. I think I'll try the golds up front to start. If they work as advertised, I'll give the reds a shot out back.
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I'm having a hard time setting my new code brakes with mtx red label pads. I wonder if anyone had this issue. I'm running 203mm golfer rotor which are supposedly the same width as centerline. I just can't get rid of a continuous rubing (so it's not a question of caliper alignment). It's really a light rubbing and I wonder if I ride the bike a bit it will go away, but I'm afraid it could glaze the pads.
I mesured pad thickness and MTX are a 3.96 vs 3.81 for sram. When I install sram pads, I don't get the rubbing... I might sand a small layer of pad but would prefer not!!
It might be a piston problem but since I have the problem front and rear I doubt that...
I already post in brake forum but I thought I tried here as well...
I mesured pad thickness and MTX are a 3.96 vs 3.81 for sram. When I install sram pads, I don't get the rubbing... I might sand a small layer of pad but would prefer not!!
It might be a piston problem but since I have the problem front and rear I doubt that...
I already post in brake forum but I thought I tried here as well...
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Hi Lewis - (Kevin from MTX) - all brake pads are 4mm in thickness and as you eluded to, there are variances from 3.86 to 3.98 in our own and all others (including SRAM OEM) that we have checked ourselves as well. 4mm is the "proper" OE spec. Given that, you should not have rubbing, so let's address that. More often than not, the pistons aren't pushed all the way in. Even a hair on each side adds up. Lets start there.
Also one thing that we found early-on when we were testing springs, we had a spring that was really stiff - it kept the pads from being perfectly parallel to the rotor, which caused rubbing. If you're using our spring, that probably isn't the case (super unlikely) but maybe give the spring a squeeze too.
But - make sure the pistons are totally flush with the caliper first. Then we could be dealing with super-tight tolerances of your caliper itself in which then....yeah you might need to sand them, as awful as that sounds (but it will not take much at all). Again, very unlikely - you should not have to though!
Keep me posted.
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Thank you for your advices Kevin. It's really appreciated... I really think my problem is pistons but it's strange since my brakes are new. I can see that one side is slightly more out. I try every tricks I know several time... I'm no bike mechanic but I think I'll end up sanding my pads a bit.
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Lewis: is is DEFINITELY your pistons. They need to go in WAY more. Take a plastic tire lever and gently pry them in. They should be totally flush with the inside of the caliper.
They are out because they compensate for the thickness of the current pads. You have a mile of room there.
Push them in and report back or you're welcome to DM me for my direct email address.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yes! I just read about that searching the web. I already tried opening my lever bleeding port last week while pressing on the pistons with my park tool PP-1.2 but no fluid came out (I once fixed an identical issue on a guide brake this way). First thing in the morning I'll try with the caliper port, hopefully it will fix the issue. Thanks
Hey LewisQC, forgive me if I missed important points mentioned in previous posts -- I just bumped into this thread and saw (only) your latest couple of posts. Anyway if you need to push your pistons back into their bores, here's a good way to do it without contaminating or damaging your pistons or caliper.
Leave the old pads that are worn out in the caliper. Since they're worn out and you plan to throw them away once you've installed your new pads, you don't care if they get damaged, right? So remove the pad keeper screw/cotter and the pad spring, then take a broad(ish) flat blade screwdriver and stick it between the old pads while they're still in the caliper. Then twist the screwdriver handle as though you were turning a screw. In this way the edges of the screwdriver's blade will push against the pads in an opposing manner. Does this make sense? The screwdriver needs to be large enough to reach & push against the pads as you twist it.
You can get a lot of leverage on the pistons this way but you'll be doing so through the old pads so the pistons won't be touched -- won't be damaged. The pads will be damaged but you won't care since you were going to throw them away anyway. Right? Only don't throw them away. Keep them in a ziploc bag clearly marked "garbage pads" (or such) so that you'll be able to reuse them over and over again whenever you want to spread your calipers' pistons.
=sParty
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Well success this morning. With a combinaison of old pad/screwdriver, plastic lever pressure, rebleeding and lot of fiddling with the caliper, I was able to get everything silent... Couldn't believe it when I heard nothing at all...I don't remember having that much problem with a set of brake. Thank you all for helping me. Sorry about digressing the thread.
And by the way, hats off to Kevin. He was the first to give me some advice and that's why I love buying stuff from small companies.. From my son's RSD Middlechild, Northshorebillet adapters, my soon to arrive Canfield Nimbe 9 frame and now MTX, the minute I had a question it was answered...
And by the way, hats off to Kevin. He was the first to give me some advice and that's why I love buying stuff from small companies.. From my son's RSD Middlechild, Northshorebillet adapters, my soon to arrive Canfield Nimbe 9 frame and now MTX, the minute I had a question it was answered...
Great tip for mixing the Red & Gold...I had installed Red F&R on my Tallboy. Noticed they were a tiny tad less grippy then stock Shimano 4 pot pads. I'm definitely in the Clyde category. Just ordered a set of Gold to try out on the front.
Any tips on getting these to not rattle? I have the XTR 9120 calipers...
Cheers,
Mike
Any tips on getting these to not rattle? I have the XTR 9120 calipers...
Cheers,
Mike
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Anyone running these on Dominion A4s? I'm swapping out to 2mm rotors soon, and would be an easier time to try a different pad. It'd be interesting to see how a different compound changes stopping power and modulation on them.
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