Well, I checked my bike again and there's scratches on rear derailleur. I don't know if it happened when I had to bail out going over rock which I held on to the bike so I didn't think it touched anything. Or could be that my son drop it while trying to take his bike out( Have to ask).

Hanger looks to be ok(I know I can't be sure just by looking)

 

When I checked Jockey wheel, it wasn't lining up with cassette and pointed inward which I think causing this issue.

So, I adjusted high and low limit screw on this and do not know of any way to adjust middle gears.

The limit screws only affect the biggest and smallest cogs and don't influence the middle ones at all, those are adjusted with cable tension using the barrel adjuster on the shift lever. Park tool website has a good step by step instruction page that's easy to follow.

 

I think this was it. Although shifting could be faster and smoother(We all want that don't we?) I didn't even look it up and just went to my bike and started turning Barrel adjuster. Checked Jockey wheel and confirmed it was moving right direction. From there, I adjusted more little at time and got all to shift and without feeling like it was trying to pop out.

Only thing I've notice was that Shifting from biggest gear to one smaller took 1 1/2 of revolution vs other smaller gears only took 1/2 of revolution but I'm guessing that's because the size of biggest gear.

 

You can try to adjust cable tension with the barrel adjuster, as mentioned above, but you may have something bent. When you adjust cable tension, it will shift the derailleur one way or another, all the time (except when you're on the limit screws). So if it shifts good from gear 2 to 3 now, but bad from 5 to 6, then if you adjust the tension so it shifts good from 5 to 6, it'll likely shift bad from 2 to 3. Uneven gear changes across the cog range often alludes to something being misaligned.

 

And Thank you both!