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Transition TransAM

16K views 49 replies 27 participants last post by  ComplexRedneck  
#1 ·
#6 ·
Im not fond of the name. With A name such as Trans Am the frame should be one that postures power. Like the Pontiac Trans Am. I posted on the Trans Am group, will report back with the results
 
#7 ·
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Be still my beating heart....what a beauty.

That being said...it is a little too slack and long travel for me. These super-slack hardtails are built like a brick house and ride accordingly. It ain't gonna be a comfy ride.
 
#38 ·
Run of the mill diamond frame.
Not that I dislike it. Its my favorite. Still nothing special all things considered.

If you sit on it like a ton of bricks then its clearly not going to be a comfy ride. Really makes you wonder how BMX or slopestyle riders do jumps with their bikes. That surely can't be comfortable!
 
#8 ·
The previous model TA were straightwall chromo, heavy and stiff as hell. WTBS, I really loved the geo. This one I think has a bit too much travel IMO. I feel like 130 is the most I really want/need out of a HT. I'd guess the sweet spot for HT angle is likely 66-67 for that amount of travel.
 
#9 ·
I'm on the fence with this. I really like my RSD RS-291 that's a 150mm 63.5* steel HT, I regularly use 130mm'ish of travel, but I've used the full 150mm a few times and I was really thankful it was there.

I am going to try an experiment with it though of putting a Wolf Tooth +1 geoshift headset and bringing the fork down to 140mm.
 
#11 ·
I'm on the fence with this. I really like my RSD RS-291 that's a 150mm 63.5* steel HT, I regularly use 130mm'ish of travel, but I've used the full 150mm a few times and I was really thankful it was there.

I am going to try an experiment with it though of putting a Wolf Tooth +1 geoshift headset and bringing the fork down to 140mm.
Depends on what you're riding. If you set the fork up right, you'll almost always use all the travel, you'll just likely have better small bump compliance. I don't really care to much about that TBH. I rely on my fork as an ass saver for mid-to-larger hits.

As far as the geo - the data says slacker is always better for descending, and I don't disagree. Where it becomes an issue is length. And that comes down to how your trails are - are they steep and straight, or mellow and twisty. Mine are the latter, so I tend to feel real nice on the shorter, steeper bikes. They are also generally pretty smooth except for medium hits that are sporadic, and bigger hits like jumps and drops, which are more sporadic and optional. Again, for me, compared to my rigid bike, the fork is letting me go faster through the medium stuff and not go around the optional bigger hits.


And then say, comparing this to my (former) modest FS bike, with 130/115 (older smuggler), my speeds were just higher all around. Our level of jumps were easy, drops like butter, chunky sections just pump through them like they were rollers, climbs easier due to better rear traction. I like riding all 3, but I think at some point, the rear end is just holding you back too much to make much of a difference for raking out and adding more travel to the front end. JMO.
 
#17 ·
Depends on what you're riding. If you set the fork up right, you'll almost always use all the travel, you'll just likely have better small bump compliance. I don't really care to much about that TBH. I rely on my fork as an ass saver for mid-to-larger hits.

As far as the geo - the data says slacker is always better for descending, and I don't disagree. Where it becomes an issue is length. And that comes down to how your trails are - are they steep and straight, or mellow and twisty. Mine are the latter, so I tend to feel real nice on the shorter, steeper bikes. They are also generally pretty smooth except for medium hits that are sporadic, and bigger hits like jumps and drops, which are more sporadic and optional. Again, for me, compared to my rigid bike, the fork is letting me go faster through the medium stuff and not go around the optional bigger hits.


And then say, comparing this to my (former) modest FS bike, with 130/115 (older smuggler), my speeds were just higher all around. Our level of jumps were easy, drops like butter, chunky sections just pump through them like they were rollers, climbs easier due to better rear traction. I like riding all 3, but I think at some point, the rear end is just holding you back too much to make much of a difference for raking out and adding more travel to the front end. JMO.
I like to set my HT forks up on the firmer end of the spectrum, too soft and the fork likes to dive, constantly throwing off the geo.

In general, my HT is used on flatter, twistier trails at this point. Hence my desire to try it with a steeper HTA and shorter front center.
 
#13 ·
I mentioned it in the other thread, but the lack of bottle bosses using stand-offs on the seat tube is a pretty big miss IMO. It's basically a requirement for me at this point to have three bottle mounts on a frame, carrying water on-body sucks.
 
#14 ·
Yeah I am working around it with One on the body and one on the bike. If I need more for a big ride or really hot day, I have a bag for Nalgene bottles I can strap under the downtube. HONAKER NALGENE® BAG — BEDROCK BAGS // Bikepacking

Next hardtail frame is going to have at least two bottle bosses. But will probably end up going custom
 
#16 ·
They don't have to. There are ways to add waterbottle bosses without intruding on the droper post.

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#19 ·
Gonna give it time to see how the reviews pan pout and rode quality. If not too stiff might be a winner. Do agree 130-140 is the more the sweet spot for a AM HT.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I'd guess the sweet spot for HT angle is likely 66-67 for that amount of travel.
To be fair at 140mm this would be close to 66° sagged.

Must be a lot of XC guys in here thinking this it to slack and to much travel. It has AM in its name. Show me one AM FS with less that 150 travel. When sagged it’s around 65.5. Steeper than most sagged AM FS bikes. For me it’s still to conservative.
Pipedream Sirius, Stanton Switch9er(65.5° at sag at 140mm).

Edit: Oh wait you said full sus. Cotic FlareMax 2 65.5° at sag at 130mm & maxes out at 140mm of travel up front. 125mm rear. Cotic Jeht gen 2 at 140mm has 64.9° hta. 140mm rear.
 
#22 ·
To be fair at 140mm this would be close to 66° sagged.


Pipedream Sirius, Stanton Switch9er(65.5° at sag at 140mm).

Edit: Oh wait you said full sus. Cotic FlareMax 2 65.5° at sag at 130mm & maxes out at 140mm of travel up front. 125mm rear. Cotic Jeht gen 2 at 140mm has 64.9° hta. 140mm rear.
130 is down country/ light trail, 140 is barely trail. Not All Mountain. This bike isn’t for everyone but it’s numbers aren’t super aggressive. Decent Geo if you want a Hardtail that can do more trails than a lot of current models out there.
 
#27 ·
The dumbest thing to do is make exceptions for a Hardtail and let the industry tell you you need more bikes. I mainly ride 2 bikes. An actual allrounder Hardtail that can climb, do long miles and any downhill trail and a Freeride FS that can also climb and do any trail back down. Boring bikes suck wether FS or Hardtail but people buy them like crazy because they listen to sponsored YouTubers, bloggers and other bike publications. You keep believing what you’re told. I will believe what I have real work experience riding.
130 is down country/ light trail, 140 is barely trail. Not All Mountain. This bike isn’t for everyone but it’s numbers aren’t super aggressive. Decent Geo if you want a Hardtail that can do more trails than a lot of current models out there.
Funny how you define these exact categories and then claim I'm the one listening to sponsors. What a tool.
 
#30 ·
I like the bike! And really I should, it’s pretty similar geometry to my Torrent. For the money though I would like to see a better fork then the Z2. Still a great bike but for $3500 I would go for a Chromag Rootdown or even the Torrent S2.
 
#33 ·
FWIW, unfortunately it seems like you are still taking a gamble on the Z2 bushing issue. I rolled the dice this summer and came up short... Others have had better luck. Kind of a bummer given that this has been a known issue at Fox. Something to consider I guess.
 
#34 ·
That’s true, I forgot about that to be honest. I’m going to go against the grain and say if they want a great fork that doesn’t break the bank Suntour is the answer. The MSRP on the Z2 is $700 cnd. For $750 cnd you can pick up a Durolux 36 RC2.
 
#35 ·
Yeah I'd actually been thinking about the Zeron coil as a possible replacement.

The Marzocchi came stock on a bike I bought earlier this year, and I'd really been hoping they'd gotten their act together. We'll see what happens when I send it in to Fox. I've actually been pretty pleased with the Z2's performance which makes it more disappointing, particularly as a genuine old fart, to whom "Marzocchi Bomber" still resonates pretty loudly.
 
#36 ·
I have the Zeron 35 Coil that came on my Torrent. It’s a great fork! Being a coil it has excellent small bump sensitivity and it takes the big hits well. It is a tad heavy but of course it is, it’s a coil. The damper can be upgraded but Suntour told me it isn’t going to be anything remarkable. Basically easy and cheap to rebuild, and if the damper gives you any grief it’s $100 for a new one.

My fork on my other bike is the Aion 35 with a PCS damper. I love that fork as well. It’s buttery smooth, easy to service, and just works.
 
#42 ·
its very good/more control in tight/switch back/techy down/very flickable - the intention was flip flop between sizes to suit trails but I'll stick with the 27.5R for now. Running a 2.6 DHR in the rear the BB measured 297mm/around 309mm to centre of the shell-the wheel is forward so there would be clearance for a 2.8 - am using 30mm inner width rims.
In 29 setup the wheel is forward as well-2.4 on the rear buts there is def plenty of room to run a 2.5WT or a 2.6
 
#43 · (Edited)
Finished up my build, super impressed with this one. Sized down from my usual XL sizing to make it more of a big kids BMX shredder. It certainly delivers!

Fox 34 140mm
XT drivetrain
Ibis S35 29/27.5 MX
Vittoria Mazza/Martello
PNW Loam
I9 stem, Ibis carbon Hi bars
Ergon grips & saddle
#30.6 as it sits, under 30 with a lighter wheel/tire combo.

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#44 ·
ive put 442kms on it in mullet and 41kms in 29 mode on 1 ride ( BTW a 2.6 x 29 DHR fits into the rear with plenty of space ) - its way better for me as a mullet-my loop has 800m of climbing, mixture of techy trails and some gnarl downhill sections-about a 2hr 40 ride which includes 10km of flat blackseal... its climbs better, jumps better - roles faster over flowing trail-you can get much lower in the bike going down and it just feels like it carries speed better/easier to turn + its just way more flickable as a mullet/geo feel's better..running with a 150mm Pike and 2.6 front and rear..im just under 6 foot on a large frame....ive got no issues at all with this bike...geo is so spot in mullet mode/plenty of rocky sections and zero pedal strike to date....its that good ive not ridden my full sus in 6 weeks! second set of bottle boses perfect for the Med B Rad Wolf Tooth strap mount...for the money/simplicity and setup options you can not go wrong at all...get the longest dropper you can fit-mines 200mm or so.