[Grinchy8]

Where it sits ‘done’
Have the 140 rear faux BETD link and 130 front travel Marzocchi z1 dropoff in place with the 1.5 degree angleset and have replaced everything but the frame and rims, some stuff like bars stem and pedals and dropper and tires and cranks are on the second iteration. It was a fun restomod and rides awesome. End weight 30.5 lb (with 2.3 mountain king shield wall and 2.35 minion dhf).

Where it sits after roughly a month:

Overpaid for my dream bike from way back in 1999. It was always up on the LBS wall, and I'd make them take it down so I could soft pedal in the parking lot.
I got a pretty poor cosmetic example, but it has been ridden, and thus was in pretty good functional nick, particularly since I just opened the checkbook and replaced everything.
I meant to pull the before pic off craigslist but I guess that isn't an option anymore.
I put a stock photo in instead.

Start weight 28.9

Replaced:
Drivetrain: 8 speed xt cassette with a lot of wear, 5 spider xt 3 chain ring crank arms fine chainrings toast, "Real" 107mm spindle 73mm square taper bottom bracket, xtr front, xtr rear, xt shifters with a Saint 73mm hollow tech bb, adventx with alloy spider group, generic 32t ring and arms (which need to be drilled out some to shed some weight). New KMC 10 speed chain.
Swapped generic trashed seat for a selle smp extra light (it isn't) but at least it is comfy.
Have tubeless conti race king and cross king coming to replace the original sworks tire pair. Wheels already insanely light so will be a prisoner exchange, but modern rubber is going to be awesome.
Fooker needle bearing pedals swapped in for the broken random alloy cages.
Came with a 110mm stem and 580 carbon bar. Working thru the ergo now, I need like 70mm rise on a 60mm stem For my fit. Some trial parts ordered for that but coming from Germany.
Found exactly one dropper that would min insert on the 90mm seat post. It only has 75mm travel, but better than nothing. Random dropper control using the cable path from the front derailleur.
Manitou xvert-r elastomers ordered, the rebound side 3rd stage was literal goo, otherwise fork fine and holding oil. Will be replacing with a 27.5 anyhow when prices normalize and going hydro disc and mullet upfront.
Ordered parts to build an homage BETD link and probably going to get a 190 i2i shock at some point.
Current weight 29.4 lb
It'll go up to do a modern bar and funky stem until I can find the right carbon bar. Tough to get 12 deg sweep on a generic bar.
Thinking when I do the front end to get one of the 1.5deg slack kits. That plus the mullet plus some fork offset aught to get the geometry workable.

 

[Grinchy8]

BETD plans. Clearance to do a square link, easier than trying to match the curves. If it works I can always make a V2 that addresses cosmetics. Have 3/4” by 1/4” aluminum bar for the sides. Have 6mm bearings to insert in the side for the front and back. Sizing back to overlap the seat stays as it does now. Front will also be 70mm wide internal, with spacers and a thru bolt (same as current but wider).
Pinning the rectangle front and back, and drilling three to six shock position holes in between. Looking at running a 190 back there. May make it longer than BETD as well to experiment with.
I’m about $30 in parts so far, with enough to build two links.

 

[Mudguard]

70mm of rise? I Do angle sets work on old 1,1/8th head tubes? Mullet, so 24" rear as per the old Big Hits?

There's a lot going on with this bike, is this something to ride everyday or put on the wall? I had a BETD kit for my 2004 Big Hit. I didn't realise they were still making stuff. But playing with the linkage can do some weird stuff in order to fit a longer shock, increase travel etc. Normally lifts the BB to nosebleed heights.

 

[DammitMike]

generic 32t ring and arms (which need to be drilled out some to shed some weight).

Sounds like a fun project, but I would look for different places to shed weight. As it sits, the dropper post likely added a good chunk of weight to the bike, so it's pretty impressive that overall it's less than a pound heavier than when you first got it.

 

[Redlands R&C]

Do angle sets work on old 1,1/8th head tubes?

Works Components makes one. It is only 1* of change, but for an older bike it is still an improvement. I actually have been using one on my Surly Pugsley for close to 2 years now.

1.0 Degree EC34-EC34 Angle Headset - To Suit 1 1/8" Steerer Tube

Specifications Fits headtube internal diameter Upper - 33.95mm EC34 Fits headtube internal diameter Lower - 33.95mm EC34 Upper cup insertion depth

www.workscomponents.co.uk

Be sure to measure your headtube distance prior to ordering one and then choose the appropriate one from the drop down menu.

 

[Grinchy8]

Works Components makes one. It is only 1* of change, but for an older bike it is still an improvement. I actually have been using one on my Surly Pugsley for close to 2 years now.

1.0 Degree EC34-EC34 Angle Headset - To Suit 1 1/8" Steerer Tube

Specifications Fits headtube internal diameter Upper - 33.95mm EC34 Fits headtube internal diameter Lower - 33.95mm EC34 Upper cup insertion depth

www.workscomponents.co.uk

Be sure to measure your headtube distance prior to ordering one and then choose the appropriate one from the drop down menu.

exactly. works has the 1 degree, and this one man band in Italy will make a 34EC-34EC 1.5 degree. Since it's a restomod this stuff is totally acceptable, although it looks like they're FSA based.

1.5 Degree EC34 headset

Yep, plans to measure headtube when I pull the fork for the rebuild. Will also give the most likely dry current bearings some love as well.

 

[Grinchy8]

Sounds like a fun project, but I would look for different places to shed weight. As it sits, the dropper post likely added a good chunk of weight to the bike, so it's pretty impressive that overall it's less than a pound heavier than when you first got it.

Generic 175mm cranks were 50g each heavier than the 22 year old XT cranks. If the XT had a decent BCD (they were 110mm) I'd just run them on a new square taper. Sadly the smallest ring they would fit in the middle was 34T, and I"m not that fit yet. They generics are alloy, but shaped like carbon cranks (flat/wide). Lots of extra in there when I get around to it. Hell, at the moment they have bosses for a third chainring that could be lopped off.

Yeah, the dropper and seat were, uh, heavy. Probably a whole kg just there. Gotta have the dropper, this bike is used by me and three kids who are shorter, but gaining.

 

[Grinchy8]

70mm of rise? I Do angle sets work on old 1,1/8th head tubes? Mullet, so 24" rear as per the old Big Hits?

There's a lot going on with this bike, is this something to ride everyday or put on the wall? I had a BETD kit for my 2004 Big Hit. I didn't realise they were still making stuff. But playing with the linkage can do some weird stuff in order to fit a longer shock, increase travel etc. Normally lifts the BB to nosebleed heights.

Yeah, I have a funky body. To match up my reach and arm/leg measures like vitruvian man I need to bring the stem level up 70mm, and have about 60mm of run to do it. Version 1 is an 80mm stem with 70mm rise bars with 12 deg sweep. Version 2 is a 90mm 45 Degree stem and flat bars with 12 deg sweep. They're both gonna look dorky as hell. But since it's a restomod I'm just gonna put a Honda sticker on it and be good.

Angleset link in a previous post. I haven't done it personally, but maths is maths.

24" rear is a good thought! I've got a bunch of outgrown 24" beach cruisers here to test fit with. Not sure how to solve the brake pad height change, but I'm sure a solution is on Aliexpress if one looks. I was going the other way, with a 27.5" on the front. That also lets me get a new fork and add a front hydro disc, which I think would be prudent. Adds about 1 degree of slack (put bike front on a 3/4" tall board and measured angle change with phone). That with the headset will be around 3 deg and it sits right now at 71. So 68 is the easy target. Can maybe get another degree with a longer fork / more front travel / more fork offset.

BETD said they aren't making it any more. Was thinking of building a U shape to sink the longer shock into the center of the linkage. Need to do some trigonometry to figure out the "drop" and length of link. I believe it is as simple as adding 25mm drop to the existing (non existant!) BETD design at the 6" hole location.

 

[kevine1785]

exactly. works has the 1 degree, and this one man band in Italy will make a 34EC-34EC 1.5 degree. Since it's a restomod this stuff is totally acceptable, although it looks like they're FSA based.

1.5 Degree EC34 headset

Yep, plans to measure headtube when I pull the fork for the rebuild. Will also give the most likely dry current bearings some love as well.

I can vouch for the Italian guy "romphaia" is his PinkBike handle. I got a 1.5degree angle headset for my Cannondale and he is super pro. Paid through paypal, he sent constant email updates and it took 2-3 weeks to get it from payment. The headset came well packaged and looked, fit and has been working great!

 

[Grinchy8]

Bash ring came in today. Think I am going to swap it to gold or black. Silver not matching like I thought it would

 

[Grinchy8]

And a dropper down pic because I took one.

 

[Dharmabum]

I can vouch for the Italian guy "romphaia" is his PinkBike handle. I got a 1.5degree angle headset for my Cannondale and he is super pro. Paid through paypal, he sent constant email updates and it took 2-3 weeks to get it from payment. The headset came well packaged and looked, fit and has been working great!

I had the same experience. Very well made.

 

[Mudguard]

Maths is not my strong point and I'm not an engineer, but there is not a lot of seat tube holding what is quite a long (dropper) post. I would try and check what the maximum seat post length these could be run with. I have a 99 FSR that I'm not sure I'd be comfortable doing long rides with a full seat post extension. It does sound like you need a bigger sized frame, personally I want tiny stems as a rule for anything I actually ride, which makes the reach number absolutely tiny on old bikes.
There were some rear disc adapters for some of old FSRs, shark fins. I have one on my bike and you'll see them from time to time.

 

[Grinchy8]

Maths is not my strong point and I'm not an engineer, but there is not a lot of seat tube holding what is quite a long (dropper) post. I would try and check what the maximum seat post length these could be run with. I have a 99 FSR that I'm not sure I'd be comfortable doing long rides with a full seat post extension. It does sound like you need a bigger sized frame, personally I want tiny stems as a rule for anything I actually ride, which makes the reach number absolutely tiny on old bikes.
There were some rear disc adapters for some of old FSRs, shark fins. I have one on my bike and you'll see them from time to time.

I"ve enjoyed your FSR posts @Mudguard!

That dropper was specifically chosen as the FSR has almost enough seat tube to meet the minimum insertion. It is only a 325mm (max) 250mm (min) 75mm drop post with 100mm insertion. I could file out the ridge out of the seat tube and fully insert, but it's close enough. At max position is my normal seat height.

Shoot, now I have to clean the seat clamp.

It's definitely a medium frame. I'm in the process of shortening the stem and raising the bar position quite a bit. I am not sure I would fit into a large, I think my desired position would be up over the stem. But I'm not opposed to finding a large to measure/find out. I'm keeping my eye open for more as this frame also fits my kids easily (with the dropper) so I need a second and possibly third one anyway.

I did look into the shark fin, but they are very hard to find. I have found a dropout / 'pinch' adapter that would work, but I haven't ordered it. I am ok with rim brakes on the rear. Eventually when components are more fluid I'll get a used 27.5" fork and put a front disc on at that time.

 

[Grinchy8]

Pouring one out for the Sondors Original I sold to make space in the garage for the FSR.

 

[Grinchy8]

Messed about tonight with the new faux BETD link. Got a v1 in there. A few learnings. 190mm is probably never going to work. My little flat aluminum bar solution is going to take some revisions to get all the spacing and bearings to line up correctly. I didn’t have the right sizes of spacers or bearings (or ways to make bearings fit well). Back to the drawing board and on to v2.
It was pretty close - a 12 mm to 6mm shock bushing and I could have been riding it, but the different widths (46 front. 40 shock mount, 70 seat stays) are a tough ask without a good way to bend bar.

 

[TNC]

Man, that brings back memories. I can't recall if mine was a '99 or '00...no real difference really except mine had Hayes disc brakes. I was working at a Trek and Spec shop. I installed an MRP link and bearing kit along with a Risse Helix coil and air rear shock. I got a Marzocchi Z1 coil fork ASAP had an absolute hoot on that bike. For the time it was a decently cutting edge setup...until I bought a brand new '99 Santa Cruz Bullit frame. I still kept that FSR for a few years to let ride-along friends have something to ride. It was a good bike.

 

[lone_tree]

I had a 98 or 99 FSR Sport. Paid $900 for it in ‘99. Loved that bike. I didn’t know a thing about bike maintenance so over the 16 years I owned it, it just got worse. I had a shop do an overhaul on it in 2013 before I got a new steed in 2014. Put on new tires, replaced some cables, tuned everything up and it ran great for the last year I owned it. After riding a bike with modern geometry, switching back to the FSR was frightening! But, it popped off everything on the trail and was incredibly easy to whip around tight turns.

 

[Grinchy8]

I had a 98 or 99 FSR Sport. Paid $900 for it in '99. Loved that bike. I didn't know a thing about bike maintenance so over the 16 years I owned it, it just got worse. I had a shop do an overhaul on it in 2013 before I got a new steed in 2014. Put on new tires, replaced some cables, tuned everything up and it ran great for the last year I owned it. After riding a bike with modern geometry, switching back to the FSR was frightening! But, it popped off everything on the trail and was incredibly easy to whip around tight turns.

Yeah right handling for sure a strong point.

 

[Grinchy8]

Switched the 110 mm stem for a 45 degree 90 mm. It’s roughly 60mm long with 60mm rise.
this is to move the bar closer to where my reach intersects with my RAD. Had to move a spacer from below the stem to get the taller clamp on, so I’m 10mm shorter than I wanted, but the early returns are still very promising. Previous the bar was on my RAD arc, butmy reach was 50mm shorter.
balance is greatly improved in the air, torque on bars much better. Balance over front more neutral. Huge improvement.
It feels so much like a 26” bmx bike. Really like it.
Bar is still super short (170mm shorter than I think I want 590 vs 760) waiting for the new bar to arrive to make final adjustments.

looked like I’m the first one to pull the top of the triple crown fork off. 23 years later? I didn’t take the heads set loose, I have fork maintenance coming to refresh the elastomers, will deal with it then.