[Didzy2009]

Yep. Sentinel got the slackest HTA between bikes that I was choosing from. Even with +1 deg it's still one of the slackest bikes out there.
I know that everyone's saying it doesn't feel as slack, but curious what it would feel like with smaller stroke on the rear and steeper HTA.

yep it does ride well - on certain tamer trails id like it a bit steeper to help with steering responsiveness - that said its not unmanageable, i was just thinking of trying it out as a change now ive had the senty almost a year

 

[MrSafeT]

Yep. Sentinel got the slackest HTA between bikes that I was choosing from. Even with +1 deg it's still one of the slackest bikes out there.
I know that everyone's saying it doesn't feel as slack, but curious what it would feel like with smaller stroke on the rear and steeper HTA.

I recommend trying the fork at 150mm first - if you don’t need the additional 10mm of front suspension. It’ll increase the HTA and lower the stack height, which makes this bike even more enthusiastic.

 

[Didzy2009]

Anyone had constant issues with seat post slipping? It’s doing my head in

had the OG one and it was fine never slipped, then the bolt snapped when undoing it, couldn’t get a replacement in the uk, so got a hope one, absolutely useless and googling it becomes apparent I’m not alone.

so I got a Thomson one, the holy grail of non slippage, worked for a while on so many rides then all of a.sudden has started slipping again even with that

it states it only needs 2.8nm of torque but even at over 3/4 it still managed to slip (and with carbon paste too)

if I do it up to around 6nm then the dropper post makes a awful sound as it’s going up, which is obviously too tight I’m assuming

really is infuriating having to get off 5 times plus per ride to put it back up

I’ve cleaned everything, no slippy grease anywhere, and used carbon paste

does it want tightening to 5-7nm as per transitions site (even though the Thomson manual says max of 2.8nm)

 

[cottinge]

Anyone had constant issues with seat post slipping? It’s doing my head in

had the OG one and it was fine never slipped, then the bolt snapped when undoing it, couldn’t get a replacement in the uk, so got a hope one, absolutely useless and googling it becomes apparent I’m not alone.

so I got a Thomson one, the holy grail of non slippage, worked for a while on so many rides then all of a.sudden has started slipping again even with that

it states it only needs 2.8nm of torque but even at over 3/4 it still managed to slip (and with carbon paste too)

if I do it up to around 6nm then the dropper post makes a awful sound as it’s going up, which is obviously too tight I’m assuming

really is infuriating having to get off 5 times plus per ride to put it back up

I’ve cleaned everything, no slippy grease anywhere, and used carbon paste

does it want tightening to 5-7nm as per transitions site (even though the Thomson manual says max of 2.8nm)

I had a similar issue, but with the stock clamp. To keep it from slipping around, I had to tighten it down to a point where it was causing my dropper (One up v2) to not function as smoothly as it should. I got sick of the balancing act and purchased a Wolf Tooth seatpost clamp and have not had an issue since. The Wolf Tooth one uses a slightly different design to more evenly distribute clamping pressures across the clamping area and keep some stress off that bolt. Might be worth a look.

 

[olslash]

mine slipped and creaked like crazy, didn't think to try a new clamp, my solution was to 3d print a spacer 🤷‍♂️ no more problems after that, and I can keep the clamp fairly loose for the sake of the dropper

 

[Didzy2009]

I had a similar issue, but with the stock clamp. To keep it from slipping around, I had to tighten it down to a point where it was causing my dropper (One up v2) to not function as smoothly as it should. I got sick of the balancing act and purchased a Wolf Tooth seatpost clamp and have not had an issue since. The Wolf Tooth one uses a slightly different design to more evenly distribute clamping pressures across the clamping area and keep some stress off that bolt. Might be worth a look.

thanks man - least there is a solution out there - mega infuriating! out of interest what torque are you putting on the wolftooth one? assume the dropper isnt binding etc?

 

[Didzy2009]

mine slipped and creaked like crazy, didn't think to try a new clamp, my solution was to 3d print a spacer 🤷‍♂️ no more problems after that, and I can keep the clamp fairly loose for the sake of the dropper
View attachment 2017276

interesting, a good idea to space the post out a little for better grip - really odd as my original clamp was fine but the new ones ive tried since arent...go figure?!

need to figure something out cannot keep stop starting every descent/climb its like going back to the non dropper era (frustrating)

 

[socalrider77]

thanks man - least there is a solution out there - mega infuriating! out of interest what torque are you putting on the wolftooth one? assume the dropper isnt binding etc?

I have a wolftooth clamp with oneup v2 post on both of my bikes. I run 7nm of torque on both, and both posts still operate normally and don’t slip. The one on my hardtail does sometimes if I’m really dumb and sitting on it through chunky stuff, but can’t expect much in that scenario


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[Didzy2009]

I have a wolftooth clamp with oneup v2 post on both of my bikes. I run 7nm of torque on both, and both posts still operate normally and don’t slip. The one on my hardtail does sometimes if I’m really dumb and sitting on it through chunky stuff, but can’t expect much in that scenario


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thanks man - sounds promising then, especially as that torque is max transition one is and your post still works ok, no way i can go that high on the thomson collar, the post is binding even at 5nm

 

[Kaparzo]

Curious if folks ever have issues with or opinions about the Sentinel's rear-end flex, especially on faster/choppier trails (vs. slower and more technical).

I've been riding a new to me carbon frame for a year now (was used previously for a year) and I have had the bearings and hardware replaced/rebuilt twice now, so I'm somewhat doubtful it's that unless there's an issue with the sleeves themselves.

Trying to sort out if there's something off about the hub (I9 Hydra) but I've had it serviced also. Just getting a lot of janky and back-end specific feeling on faster flow/park type trails, as well as more typical trails where speeds pick up but there is still some surface and root chatter.

Just want to make sure I am not expecting more out of the bike than I should, while working to diagnose if something else is an issue?

 

[cottinge]

thanks man - sounds promising then, especially as that torque is max transition one is and your post still works ok, no way i can go that high on the thomson collar, the post is binding even at 5nm

I run mine a bit less at 5nm, no issues with slippage or the dropper binding.

 

[Didzy2009]

any one know what size or a link to some circlip pliers that will work on removing the circlips from the rocker link please? would be massively appreciated so i dont go and order something totally wrong

 

[socalrider77]

any one know what size or a link to some circlip pliers that will work on removing the circlips from the rocker link please? would be massively appreciated so i dont go and order something totally wrong

If you mean the circlips that hold the bearing, I just use a set I got from the local hardware store


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[cottinge]

If you mean the circlips that hold the bearing, I just use a set I got from the local hardware store


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Yeah like socalrider mentioned, local hardware store should have them. Not sure what that might look like in the UK, so here is a pic of the set that I picked up for reference. The 12-25mm size provided enough range of coverage when I swapped bearings.

 

[Didzy2009]

Yeah like socalrider mentioned, local hardware store should have them. Not sure what that might look like in the UK, so here is a pic of the set that I picked up for reference. The 12-25mm size provided enough range of coverage when I swapped bearings.

View attachment 2017497

Thanks guys I’ve got these ones from another non bike related job but they don’t work, instead of squeezing the handles together to get the circlip to open, I’m having to push against the handles to attempt it but then they just slip and it’s incredibly hard with one hand and can’t lol

I’m assuming these are perhaps external ones? Although they don’t look to dissimilar to the above ones?

should be a simple job of putting the pliers in and squeezing the handles so they must be the wrong tool for the job, the tips are also a bit to big but sure if I could squeeze them the right way I’d get it done easy enough

 

[cottinge]

Thanks guys I’ve got these ones from another non bike related job but they don’t work, instead of squeezing the handles together to get the circlip to open, I’m having to push against the handles to attempt it but then they just slip and it’s incredibly hard with one hand and can’t lol

I’m assuming these are perhaps external ones? Although they don’t look to dissimilar to the above ones?

should be a simple job of putting the pliers in and squeezing the handles so they must be the wrong tool for the job, the tips are also a bit to big but sure if I could squeeze them the right way I’d get it done easy enough



View attachment 2017503

Yup, those are for external circlips. They look similar, but clamping pressure using those opens the pliers vs. closing them, as you mentioned. If you look a little closer, they don't cross at the joint...

 

[Didzy2009]

Yup, those are for external circlips. They look similar, but clamping pressure using those opens the pliers vs. closing them, as you mentioned. If you look a little closer, they don't cross at the joint...

haha I thought I was going mad for a moment tbh, I had to google it and then saw there’s a external and internal type, now makes sense why I was doing the opposite, got 4 of the buggers and all the same 🤣

ill get some knipex Ones or some park ones, really want to get the circlips off so I can repack the bearings get some extra life out of them as it’s so so so so wet here in the uk

 

[walkerharris11]

Anyone had constant issues with seat post slipping? It’s doing my head in

had the OG one and it was fine never slipped, then the bolt snapped when undoing it, couldn’t get a replacement in the uk, so got a hope one, absolutely useless and googling it becomes apparent I’m not alone.

so I got a Thomson one, the holy grail of non slippage, worked for a while on so many rides then all of a.sudden has started slipping again even with that

it states it only needs 2.8nm of torque but even at over 3/4 it still managed to slip (and with carbon paste too)

if I do it up to around 6nm then the dropper post makes a awful sound as it’s going up, which is obviously too tight I’m assuming

really is infuriating having to get off 5 times plus per ride to put it back up

I’ve cleaned everything, no slippy grease anywhere, and used carbon paste

does it want tightening to 5-7nm as per transitions site (even though the Thomson manual says max of 2.8nm)

Yes. Mine was way out of tolerance and I had to shim it with a cut out coke can. Transition warrantied my front triangle. My new one is still out of tolerance, but better, and it holds without too much carbon paste. How big is it if you measure with a caliper?

 

[cogswell23]

Thanks guys I’ve got these ones from another non bike related job but they don’t work, instead of squeezing the handles together to get the circlip to open, I’m having to push against the handles to attempt it but then they just slip and it’s incredibly hard with one hand and can’t lol

I’m assuming these are perhaps external ones? Although they don’t look to dissimilar to the above ones?

should be a simple job of putting the pliers in and squeezing the handles so they must be the wrong tool for the job, the tips are also a bit to big but sure if I could squeeze them the right way I’d get it done easy enough



View attachment 2017503

I’ve got a cpl pairs of circlip pliers, one internal and one external—they’re the two sizes you need for servicing a bikeyoke revive which is why I picked them up originally. If I’m remembering correctly, the pin diameters on the internal plier was too large for the bearing retainer on my sentinel, but the external pliers fit. I was able to make them work, though it was awkward, counterintuitive and clumsy. If you can’t find what you need at your local hardware store and don’t want to wait for a set to arrive in the mail before you can put your bike back together, I bet you can make what you’ve got work.

Obviously, the right tool for the job is better, but if you’re in a pinch…

Also, thanks for the reminder that I need to pick up a pair of the internal kind in the right size so I don’t run into this next time!

 

[Didzy2009]

I’ve got a cpl pairs of circlip pliers, one internal and one external—they’re the two sizes you need for servicing a bikeyoke revive which is why I picked them up originally. If I’m remembering correctly, the pin diameters on the internal plier was too large for the bearing retainer on my sentinel, but the external pliers fit. I was able to make them work, though it was awkward, counterintuitive and clumsy. If you can’t find what you need at your local hardware store and don’t want to wait for a set to arrive in the mail before you can put your bike back together, I bet you can make what you’ve got work.

Obviously, the right tool for the job is better, but if you’re in a pinch…

Also, thanks for the reminder that I need to pick up a pair of the internal kind in the right size so I don’t run into this next time!

thanks - yeah i tried and tried even pushing the handles out, no work around for me, i cant grip it enough with one hand, i guess if i had a vice that would free up my other hand and likely still do it, but its no hassle, i reached out to transition and they use the park pr2 ones, (mixed reviews online) but at least i know theyll work and get the job done, if they break ill just send them back for a refund, but should be fine the 1 or 2 times ill use them a year

haha! no worries, its only when you come to do a job typically you realise you dont have the tools