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That Straggler makes me think it was a 26 LHT with custom painting if the title of this thread is something else. It makes me think I am very tiny.

With a tall guy like you, maybe an LHT/DT will fit you better without using a bunch of spacers. I know it's too late but I don't that much spacer is a bad thing. you may consider adding an steer tube cable hanger like the one used on the crosscheck so you will have too tightening points which are the cable hanger and the stem bolts.
Problem Solvers
 
I having trouble understanding the straggler geometry compared to the cross check. If the bb drop is greater than how does it have a longer top tube? I am looking at it as if one were to increase the bb drop on the cross check the size would go up and the top tube would the same. What am I missing?
Thanks
 
I having trouble understanding the straggler geometry compared to the cross check. If the bb drop is greater than how does it have a longer top tube? I am looking at it as if one were to increase the bb drop on the cross check the size would go up and the top tube would the same. What am I missing?
Thanks
The BB is lower. The TT is longer. The frames use different tubesets. Size for size, the Straggler has a longer top tube than the CC. It's new school frame geometry that focuses on keeping rider weight between the wheels and running a slightly shorter stem. It's stable as hell offroad at speed and the shorter stem helps keep the steering agile despite the longer wheelbase.

And lower BB means lower standover if that's important to you for sizing.
 
Nice build, npcannon!

Daily commuter, pretty much ready for tour.
The Straggler serves as a great all-purpose ride. After commuting for nearly a year on one, I can honestly say it has the best geometry for that slightly loaded, varied terrain, varied weather, daily commute than any other bike I have owned. More and more pictures like this are convincing me that I am not alone in this belief. Nice setup!
 
Thanks for the replies. Why does Surly put 'regular' length stems (e.g. 100mm on 52-56) on the complete bikes? Also, what are some of the length stems that you guys are running?
 
If I put anything longer than 80mm on my size 56 Cross Checks, I feel all stretched out. That might be because I'm used to MTB flat bars, but still, the Surly top-tubes seem longer than other comparable bikes.
 
Quick question for you guys: is anyone else having problems with brake chatter on the front brake? I'm running TRP Spyres and my brakes shudder something fierce under moderate to heavy braking. The rotor is true and the pads seem to be aligned correctly. This has been an issue since day one. When I took it into my LBS that built the bike, I was told that road forks are going to chatter with a disc brake because of the forces involved. Thoughts/input? Would switching to a different fork help?
 
Quick question for you guys: is anyone else having problems with brake chatter on the front brake? I'm running TRP Spyres and my brakes shudder something fierce under moderate to heavy braking. The rotor is true and the pads seem to be aligned correctly. This has been an issue since day one. When I took it into my LBS that built the bike, I was told that road forks are going to chatter with a disc brake because of the forces involved. Thoughts/input? Would switching to a different fork help?
I have not had any issues with Avid BB7 and 160mm rotors.
 
Quick question for you guys: is anyone else having problems with brake chatter on the front brake? I'm running TRP Spyres and my brakes shudder something fierce under moderate to heavy braking. The rotor is true and the pads seem to be aligned correctly. This has been an issue since day one. When I took it into my LBS that built the bike, I was told that road forks are going to chatter with a disc brake because of the forces involved. Thoughts/input? Would switching to a different fork help?
A co-worker has a Vaya with Spyres and he has mentioned some minor shudder issues. I have ridden his bike and don't think it's that bad but suggested he try some EBC "green" pads. I have had very good luck with those smoothing out brake performance and eliminating noise issues.
 
I have a 56 straggler, custom built. It has the stock fork, a Chris King headset, Avid BB7 road S brakes with 160 rotors (front and rear) on a set of Mavic C29ssmax wheels and I don't get a bit of shudder on mine.
 
Well it seems like the stock fork isn't the issue, if none of you are having problems with brake chatter. I'm going to give it a thorough clean this weekend and I've ordered new pads as that is the cheapest solution. More info I didn't include in my original post: I'm using 160mm Deore rotors and my wheels are Velocity Ailerons laced to Shimano CX75 hubs.

LBS still thinks that the chatter is related to fork design. I generally trust my LBS as he rarely tries to upsell me, but I don't want to shell out for a new fork if it is clearly not the problem.
 
I would also recommend cleaning the rotor surface with automotive brake disc (rotor) cleaner. I find this really helps if done periodically. I also very much doubt it is anything to do with the fork.
 
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