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Finished converting it to flat bar and adding gears, still waiting on a longer stem for it though.

my 660mm bars don't look or feel right on this, though.
 
Finished converting it to flat bar and adding gears, still waiting on a longer stem for it though.

my 660mm bars don't look or feel right on this, though.
some "alt" bars would prob do the job nicely... something like the on-one mary (origin8 space bar), or one of the many flavors of Jones bars... have some old Jones/Titec H bars on my touring bike and I love them... lots of hand positions and lots of rearward and forward movment so it's easy to sit more upright when I want but move forward on the bar and I can get a nice bit of a aero/power position
 
I am interested to know if that rear wheel keeps wanting to kiss the chain stay now that you are running a deraileur.
It actually gets worse, the hub tends to float both forwards and up and town when it is all the way forward.

what I've done to remedy that is run one tension screw in each direction, fine tuning them till they're straight. I place the hub in the middle of the drops, apply leverage at the tire pulling the whole wheel to the non drive side, I then tighten the axle. It's worked so far, but I haven't done a big ride on it yet.

there is so much play in the drops when the wheel is not tightened down. I have to believe the axle is to blame here. I don't think a wheel that is nearly tight AND all the way back in the drops should have that much side to side play.

What I do love is how I barely had to tune my derailleur after installing it. Shimano XT is so worth it.
 
some "alt" bars would prob do the job nicely... something like the on-one mary (origin8 space bar), or one of the many flavors of Jones bars... have some old Jones/Titec H bars on my touring bike and I love them... lots of hand positions and lots of rearward and forward movment so it's easy to sit more upright when I want but move forward on the bar and I can get a nice bit of a aero/power position
I'm considering the Mary/ Clarence type bars. I really am. One thing that worries me is I don't know which kind of stem to run!
 
It actually gets worse, the hub tends to float both forwards and up and town when it is all the way forward.

what I've done to remedy that is run one tension screw in each direction, fine tuning them till they're straight. I place the hub in the middle of the drops, apply leverage at the tire pulling the whole wheel to the non drive side, I then tighten the axle. It's worked so far, but I haven't done a big ride on it yet.

there is so much play in the drops when the wheel is not tightened down. I have to believe the axle is to blame here. I don't think a wheel that is nearly tight AND all the way back in the drops should have that much side to side play.

What I do love is how I barely had to tune my derailleur after installing it. Shimano XT is so worth it.
I have been running my t-screws that way from the get go, no problems but a PITA to remove the wheel!
 
I can't help but think that Surly blew it with drop-outs on the Straggler. Why not have just used a variation of the Ogre/Troll/ECR drop-out?
 
are you guys using shimano QR's or other brands?

any time I've had issues with axle slippage it's been fixed with a very tight shimano QR
 
I'm using Delta bolt on Axles. I tighten them with a 5 mil allen.

What I find incredibly annoying in these drop outs is the fact that, with the skewer removed. if I slide the axle STRAIGHT forward, till it touches the front of the drops on both sides,my axle will be crooked both side to side, and front to back.
 
I'm using Delta bolt on Axles. I tighten them with a 5 mil allen.

What I find incredibly annoying in these drop outs is the fact that, with the skewer removed. if I slide the axle STRAIGHT forward, till it touches the front of the drops on both sides,my axle will be crooked both side to side, and front to back.
Yea, that certainly doesn't seem right. I've been running geared since I built mine up, with the wheel slammed all the way forward in the dropouts, everything is nice and centered. Screws are both in from the back and I'm using a BoB skewer. I haven't had even the slightest bit of movement and wheel removal is cake.

Maybe its time to visit the shop and have them take a looksee and make sure everything is as it should be...
 
I'm using Delta bolt on Axles. I tighten them with a 5 mil allen.

What I find incredibly annoying in these drop outs is the fact that, with the skewer removed. if I slide the axle STRAIGHT forward, till it touches the front of the drops on both sides,my axle will be crooked both side to side, and front to back.
Man...there is something wrong with the wheel, or that axle setup is just not going work with this frame. I think the rear drop out design is kind of neat. I am using my bike with a derailleur and have the screws both in from the back, this way the drop outs work regular vertical. No problems at all.
is it possible for you to test with another rear wheel?

I agree with jcaino, The LBS might be able to have a look, its not likely but maybe there is some kind of frame issue.
 
Are you running a 135 mm rear wheel? If so, I have to think there's a problem with your frame.

I am running single speed with a generic DT Swiss QR, which is cinched down snug but not crazy tight (like, using the hand but not the whole arm), the drive side screw in from the front and the non drive side in from the rear, and no slippage or alignment problems, even under significant torque.

I can change the wheel/cog with no tools, turning the adjuster screws by hand. Changing cogs moves the rear axle fore/aft but I have no trouble keeping the wheel and brake aligned properly.

I really like the dropouts, because I can both adjust the wheel horizontally, and also change the wheel/cog, without touching the rear brake. This is what the dropouts were designed for.
 
No problems with wheel movement here and I'm 280lbs running low gearing on 180mm cranks. No problems on road, trail, or even pounding during the last few cross races. Shimano SLX hubs, XT skewers. Only problem I've got is flexing the front fork enough to cause brake rub during particularly spirited out of the saddle efforts. I would have preferred standard vertical dropouts but the front entry horizontal dropouts are working just fine for now.
 
I'm thinking I'd blame my REALLY CHEAP wheel before I blame my frame. I'd run it past the shop that sold it to me, but they'd charge me to look at it. So Ill take it into my shop and pull out the calipers and frame gauges and what have you.

I'm just waiting till I can slap an Alfine in there. I doubt that axle would have any issues.
 
I'm thinking I'd blame my REALLY CHEAP wheel before I blame my frame. I'd run it past the shop that sold it to me, but they'd charge me to look at it. So Ill take it into my shop and pull out the calipers and frame gauges and what have you.

I'm just waiting till I can slap an Alfine in there. I doubt that axle would have any issues.
I had a fair share of cheap wheels - most of them can be adjusted to tolerable levels with just basic cone wrenches. Did you try and feel out the wheel when it is not on the bike? Any play?

Also - never had good experience with the type of skewer you are using (same pricepoint - $12-15). Do you have any normal skewer to just try and see if it helps (after checking for play and stuff)?
 
We have some internal cam skewers from my Miss's bike. the bolt ons aren't a problem on hers. I may try on of them.

I just donated a huge pile of spare parts to my local Bike Kitchen, but when I saw those I was like "Nope, keeping these puppies."

the hub itself doesn't have any play, I honestly think it has more to do with the axle (Not to be confused with the skewer) not being wide enough.

I'm going to take it apart again tonight. I feel like it might be missing a nut or spacer.

Ugh. I just want my bike ironed out!

Also I need to post pics now that I've swapped so much.
 
I'd love to see more pics of your build.
May be you can also post close up pics of hubs, axle, etc
May be we'll notice that something is off right away - like washers are not serrated?
 
I'll get those detail shots up the next time I take the wheel off. which may be very soon.

here she is as she sits now. I really, REALLY like it with flat bars. in spite of the fact the cockpit length matches the Soma. this bike rolls smoother, faster and handles lighter than the soma (Even though it actually weighs more!)

still want to trim the bars a bit. but I also think I want to get some polished bits instead of black.







 
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