following...in theory this seems like a pretty slick way to lock out a fork or both.
I'm a dedicated grip shift fan and have the push button thumb actuated lockout on two bikes, it's nice but get's "sticky" when cold and needs a bleed every so often.

 

I'm a dedicated grip shift fan and have the push button thumb actuated lockout on two bikes, it's nice but get's "sticky" when cold and needs a bleed every so often.

The one that went out on the Blur TR was just the opposite of "sticky". The grip would turn but it would not engage and therefore was locked out. I'm not quite sure if I like or not yet. During the actual demo I unknowingly bumped the thumb button and locked out the fork/shock. Only happened once and it was on relatively tame trails. I honestly think I would prefer not to have the lockout at all but not at the cost involved in reversing the system...

 

Well I have now had two of these remotes fail on my Blur TR... RS says there was a period where there were QC/manufacturing issues, they also said this on the first one that was replaced. I would rather have this bike with manual remotes than the system as it is set up. The shop I went to this time said they have had multiple issues with the remote on various bikes.

 

For those who have the twistloc. Do you have to use the included grip, or can you use a silicone grip that's cut a bit shorted with it?

 

One of the guys with the Blur TR on here actually has done this. He replaced the SRAM grips with ESI Chunky's I believe, and cut the left one to fit with the lockout.

 

I took my twistlock off to put riser bars on. When I put the twistlock back on it will twist but doesnt "click" for it to stay unlocked. Anyone else have this issue or know what I might have done to cause this?

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This was the issue I had with my initial TwistLoc that failed in the parking lot before I could even demo it, SRAM said there was a bad batch and sent a replacement. The second one lasted a couple of weeks and SRAM's response was the same as the first time. I'm now awaiting the parts to use the Fox lockout remote and a different dropper/remote. While I'm waiting I'm running my bike in the open position by rigging the suspension with a cable to stay open, and the TwistLoc has been removed for good. Either the new attempt will work or the shop said they will send the shock back in and get a new top cap for the fork so I can run them manual.

 

I have ordered a fox lockout from the shop I bought it from

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To rig suspension open

Normally there is gear cable outer running between the remote and the suspension. Where the OUTER would usually enter the fork/shock insert a gear INNER cable directly. The head of the gear inner that normally sits in the remote, will sit in the stop that the outer usually stops against.

Run the gear inner through the compression/lockout dial as it normally would.

Then manually hold the dial so your suspension is open and cinch down the cable anchor bolt on the cable.

Trim inner cable and crimp a cable end onto it.

Ride

 

This was simple and worked perfectly thank you!!!

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I cut a pair of ESI grips and it works fine. You need to use the "racers edge" size to match up perfectly with the remote. I assume "chunky" or "extra chunky" will leave an abrupt transition from the grip to the remote.

 

Ok. I'll check that out. Thanks!

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Does anyone know if these issues have been fixed in current ones? love the idea, its exactly what ive been wanting for a while on my ht with a SC34 120mm.. but not if it works like $h*t...

 

I also had Twist Loc issues on a Blur TR, I am now using a OneLoc setup which is more durable. The Twist Loc would pop out on random hits, I think it is a flawed product combo with the Fox shock which defaults to locked out. I will not be going back to the Twist Loc, I'm debating have the shock converted to a 3 position, or keeping the OneLoc.

 

Yeah sounds like it needs to be redesigned.. fox does make a top cap that springs the other way (push to lock) that I was planning on using.. worldwide has em for $30..

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Good to know, I will definitely be ordering that, it makes more sense to have it default to open IMHO

 

I’m using Twistloc with ESI-grip on my new Santa Cruz Blur 2021 with Rockshox SID front and back. It works perfectly when it’s dry and nice, but when it gets really wet and muddy grime seems to get into the system and the twist just bounces back to the unlocked position. Luckily I don’t have the stupid Fox stuff where cable pull opens the suspension, so I can still ride the trails with working fork and shock.

Using ESI instead of the original grip might be the reason for this failure because water can easily get in between the Twistlock and the ESI-grip, but I’m not sure.

 

I just broke my second Twistloc of the OG version, this second one didn't even last 5 rides. Absolute POS.

 

The (only) 3M screw that holds the entire twisting mechanism together is the weak link. It's too short, and if you loosen it and try to tighten it onto your bars at a reasonable torque then you'll risk stripping the hole almost every time because the 3M screw is only grabbing the other side of the hole by a thread or two.
Who was the scumbag idiot at SRAM who decided to skimp out on a 1mm screw length which ultimately deems their product useless?!! I bet that executive decision saved them a whopping $100 on their order of 100,000+ M3 screws

*** The real fix for this is going up one length of M3 screw, make sure you order the proper head on the screw. You can get a kit of multiple sizes on Amazon for like $20, I just did this fix today. I wouldn't be boring or going up to a M4 unless its an absolute last resort, the lbs tried that with my last Twistloc and it went way south quick.

 

Well after a few days with my "fixed" Twistloc I've come to the conclusion that this OG version is an absolute piece of garbage thanks to its design. The smooth metal surface on the inside of the Twistloc mechanism doesn't grip the handlebars in the slightest once tightened to spec, and ceramic paste does NOTHING to combat this issue. Total design failure by SRAM - hence why they released 2 versions after this one (and I'd be surprised if the latest 2 versions are much better in this regard). A real pile of dogshit from one of the world leaders in reputable bike parts