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I haven't noticed this happening, but I do feel like I've had to adjust the dropper initially more than usual will have to keep an eye on it. What is your riding weight if you don't mind me asking? Those clamps look super nice!

Dropper related -- Apparently my dropper cable was pinched hard in the frame and now the oneup dropper behaves like all the reviews I've read online. Smooth lever action finally, I was going to buy a wolftooth lever but now I don't need too. Almost as smooth as the bike yoke on my other bike.
 
I got the shock yesterday. It's a new shock from Evil for a Wreckoning. He still has more if anyone is interested.
Anyone here is the tune straight from RS. Main things are REBOUND TUNE LINEAR and COMPRESSION TUNE L, so linear rebound and light compression tune. Given how I am running my air SDU I think this will go well for me.
I’m 190lb with same shock and tune. 425lb was 31/32% sag sitted with 0 preload. 450 is 28% with 0 preload. Unsure of your riding terrain but I’d reckon 400lb spring would work. Push and ohlins have the most accurate spring calculators in my experience. Hoping for tunes to be available just like they have with the vivid for the spire. Currently the LNL tune has me sitting deep in the travel. 425 has excellent suppleness but sits deep and 450 is abit more harsh at the start but good mid support.
 
I’m 190lb with same shock and tune. 425lb was 31/32% sag sitted with 0 preload. 450 is 28% with 0 preload. Unsure of your riding terrain but I’d reckon 400lb spring would work. Push and ohlins have the most accurate spring calculators in my experience. Hoping for tunes to be available just like they have with the vivid for the spire. Currently the LNL tune has me sitting deep in the travel. 425 has excellent suppleness but sits deep and 450 is abit more harsh at the start but good mid support.
Thanks for that. I suppose I could just get a 450 and start there. I have certainly worried that 500 could be too much. I think I'll purchase a 450 and 500 and then establish sag and go from there.
 
I haven't noticed this happening, but I do feel like I've had to adjust the dropper initially more than usual will have to keep an eye on it. What is your riding weight if you don't mind me asking? Those clamps look super nice!

Dropper related -- Apparently my dropper cable was pinched hard in the frame and now the oneup dropper behaves like all the reviews I've read online. Smooth lever action finally, I was going to buy a wolftooth lever but now I don't need too. Almost as smooth as the bike yoke on my other bike.
My "fighting" weight is 225-30. I snapped the seat mast off my bike yoke and have been a one-up fanboy ever since. Just fitted a 240, love it.
 
What size frame did you put the 240 into? I have a XL spire and I'm convinced I can slam a 240 one up despite the calculator saying I can't.
Large. I had to remove the upper portion of the inner cable routing though. I first did this by simply inserting a post all the way which catches the top of it and cuts/breaks away about an inch off. I did the rest by exposing the cable housing and catching it with a copper pipe forcing down and ripping/ scraping some more out. Not for the faint of heart but is harmless to the frame and worked just fine. Really can't access the rest after the curve in the seat tube so unlikely you could ever fully slam one. I have 42mm exposed to the collar/ bump on the post. Also keep in mind I have a near 36" inseam.

With all that said I wasn't sure how much difference that 30mm would make but it really does make a big difference. The seat is fully out of the way, love it.
 
I’ve posted the issues I’ve had with the shock bolt coming loose for the last year since I got this frame, but thought I’d check if everyone else’s looks the same. It almost seems like the carbon interface where the tabs fit in is ovalized/misshaped.

I’ve tried everything from blue loctite, red loctite, red loctite and tape on the bolt, several different tabs/bolts from Transition, etc. Nothing has worked and it always ends up working loose on a DH and drives me absolutely nuts.


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I’ve posted the issues I’ve had with the shock bolt coming loose for the last year since I got this frame, but thought I’d check if everyone else’s looks the same. It almost seems like the carbon interface where the tabs fit in is ovalized/misshaped.

I’ve tried everything from blue loctite, red loctite, red loctite and tape on the bolt, several different tabs/bolts from Transition, etc. Nothing has worked and it always ends up working loose on a DH and drives me absolutely nuts.


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That definitely looks oversized, perhaps from it coming loose.

I chased down this problem on mine and solved it. IMO the shock pin grabs the bolt and spins it. It has be smooth and free of corrosion, the bolt and the inner shock pin. Then lots of grease. This way there's no friction and the pin can't get any purchase on the bolt. This completely solved my problem.
 
That definitely looks oversized, perhaps from it coming loose.

I chased down this problem on mine and solved it. IMO the shock pin grabs the bolt and spins it. It has be smooth and free of corrosion, the bolt and the inner shock pin. Then lots of grease. This way there's no friction and the pin can't get any purchase on the bolt. This completely solved my problem.
Using a needle bearing might help, they are generally most helpful on the top due to the rocker having a lot of rotation that is less than ideal for bushings, but in this case it might work well.
 
Using a needle bearing might help, they are generally most helpful on the top due to the rocker having a lot of rotation than is ideal for bushings, but in this case it might work well.
Yeah, that would eliminate any rotational force on the bolt. I was headed in that direction myself but so far so good since understanding the cause.
 
I’ve posted the issues I’ve had with the shock bolt coming loose for the last year since I got this frame, but thought I’d check if everyone else’s looks the same. It almost seems like the carbon interface where the tabs fit in is ovalized/misshaped.

I’ve tried everything from blue loctite, red loctite, red loctite and tape on the bolt, several different tabs/bolts from Transition, etc. Nothing has worked and it always ends up working loose on a DH and drives me absolutely nuts.
Sorry if you said this already, I read through this thread in the fall and forgot about your issue specifically but did you reach out to transition or your local transition dealer specifically with those photos? I would try and get that warrantied like they did 2 of my front triangles. Someone else just replaced theirs as well. I went through my LBS but transition shipped the frames out quick once there was deamed to be a manufacturing issue that those holes are out of shape enough I'd expect they'd do something for you.
 
Sorry if you said this already, I read through this thread in the fall and forgot about your issue specifically but did you reach out to transition or your local transition dealer specifically with those photos? I would try and get that warrantied like they did 2 of my front triangles. Someone else just replaced theirs as well. I went through my LBS but transition shipped the frames out quick once there was deamed to be a manufacturing issue that those holes are out of shape enough I'd expect they'd do something for you.
I haven’t reached out with the photos yet. I actually dropped by the HQ when I was at the Tuneup last summer. The tech there is the one who gave me new hardware, wrapped the bolt, then used red loctite and told me to torque it down hard.

I’ll reach out and see what they say. I’m second owner but have also purchased new from them in the past. My dropper also slips even when overtorqued as well and it’s one of the earlier frames lacking dropper depth… so if I had an option for a new frame, I’d be ecstatic.
 
I haven’t reached out with the photos yet. I actually dropped by the HQ when I was at the Tuneup last summer. The tech there is the one who gave me new hardware, wrapped the bolt, then used red loctite and told me to torque it down hard.

I’ll reach out and see what they say. I’m second owner but have also purchased new from them in the past. My dropper also slips even when overtorqued as well and it’s one of the earlier frames lacking dropper depth… so if I had an option for a new frame, I’d be ecstatic.
Technically I was the second own too for what it's worth, I bought a demo bike but I went through the shop that sold it to me. I'd say given all that you have going on I hope they help you out!
 
I followed up on my old email chain with them and got a super quick response. They asked for a measurement from eyelet to eyelet and then one for the shock hardware as well and said that will determine next steps.

Hardware measured an expected 30mm, but eyelet to eyelet was closer to 31mm. Fingers crossed still, not having to constantly worry about my frame getting sloppy mid run with a loose shock bolt would be a game changer.
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Throwing in a garage pic of her just because I really do love the bike minus the couple of issues I’ve had.

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I'd put money on you getting a new front triangle with that eye-to-eye measurement. At least I'd find it hard to think they'd say no to a frame that is out of their spec. Beautiful build!
 
They replied and agreed that the frame is out of tolerance. Asked me to submit a warranty claim and they’ll start next steps! Hoping it’s quick.
Thought so, my frame was out of tolerance in the same spot. Super glad they're taking care of you!
 
Well, unfortunately for now, they aren’t able to send me a replacement triangle because I’m the second owner. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t quite bummed out and disappointed.

They are however working with me to try and get shock hardware that will make up space caused by the tolerance issue… The person I’ve been working with has been extremely responsive and helpful, just bummed Transition won’t send a triangle for a manufacturing defect that has nothing to do with whether it’s with a 1st or 2nd owner.
 
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