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I'm going to need to do the same. I only have chips in there now, but if something big gets in there on a bad compression, I could see some catastrophic damage happening.
I wonder if anyone in the Transition forum has posted about a crud guard already? I could fashion one out of tape (two pieces of black duct tape adhered to one another, with the ends stuck to the frame) easily enough but it would look really janky. A section of inner tube glued down could work too but it would still look rough. I'll have to think about what other materials I can use.
 
What would you make it out of, a thick inner tube or something? I think the stars would have to align to actually catch something in there on the upswing.
The upper link opens up on compression and closes on extension so I picture it acting like a nutcracker. Removing the pivot bolts then sliding a section of inner tube over it would cover it but it would look shi**y and probably be unnecessary. I’ve been ogling my bike since I got it and this is what I get for ruminating too much haha
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The upper link opens up on compression and closes on extension so I picture it acting like a nutcracker. Removing the pivot bolts then sliding a section of inner tube over it would cover it but it would look shi**y and probably be unnecessary. I’ve been ogling my bike since I got it and this is what I get for ruminating too much haha View attachment 2023371
Ha. Yeah, the gaps that close on compression are the ones that could cause damage. Not 100% sure with Transition but that rocker link and the hubs at either ends of the chain stay and seats stays are likely solid carbon/resin.
 
What degree did you go with?

1.5. All the calcs seem to put the head angle solidly under 64 degrees still, but it will shorten the front center and get me a little more stack. The thought being, easier to keep weight on the front and also be a little taller. I've got enough spacers and extra bars to keep messing from there if I need to. Really not that expensive of an experiment, so I figured why not?
 
1.5. All the calcs seem to put the head angle solidly under 64 degrees still, but it will shorten the front center and get me a little more stack. The thought being, easier to keep weight on the front and also be a little taller. I've got enough spacers and extra bars to keep messing from there if I need to. Really not that expensive of an experiment, so I figured why not?
Yeah, 1.5° will bring in the front center and wheelbase quite a bit. I waffled between 1° and 1.5° for a while but settled on 1° based on what I was trying to achieve from my previous bike's Geo. As you say though they're not terribly expensive and moving forward you would only need the top cup If you were to change to 1° or even go back to stock you could still leave in the lower cup which is cool. Furthermore there's a large shoulder on the upper cup so it's really easy to remove.

Definitely curious to hear your thoughts on what that 1.5 degree does to how the bike rides. Of course I'm starting out with the 1° so I won't have anything relative to say.
 
For anybody considering an angle adjust headset I can say the Works is a hell of a nice piece. The website is easy to navigate and understand, they have stock, and they're shipping service was fast with detailed tracking. Also a very reasonable price for such a nice piece.
Yeah, Works or bust. The Cane Creek angleset should be named the Cane Creak.

To be fair, I’ve got no experience with WolfTooth’s angle adjust headset, and I generally trust them to execute well. But the Works unit just, well, works.
 
Yeah, Works or bust. The Cane Creek angleset should be named the Cane Creak.

To be fair, I’ve got no experience with WolfTooth’s angle adjust headset, and I generally trust them to execute well. But the Works unit just, well, works.
As far as I can tell, Works is the only company to offer a ZS56/ZS56 angle adjust headset. Which is odd, since the 1.5" straight headtube in theory makes the whole thing easier. Do CC or WT even offer such a beast?
 
As far as I can tell, Works is the only company to offer a ZS56/ZS56 angle adjust headset. Which is odd, since the 1.5" straight headtube in theory makes the whole thing easier. Do CC or WT even offer such a beast?
Oh yeah yeah, I didn't even think about that piece. You're right, neither of them offer the ZS56 upper.

The new Firebird (not that new at this point) and the Spire/Patrol are the only bikes off the top of my head that are specced with 1.5 straight headtubes. There's probably some ebikes with it too and maybe I'm missing some semi-obscure thing. But, there just aren't that many bikes running that spec, so I can see how it wouldn't feel very urgent to bring something to market. It's a good thing the Works units are so good!
 
Oh yeah yeah, I didn't even think about that piece. You're right, neither of them offer the ZS56 upper.

The new Firebird (not that new at this point) and the Spire/Patrol are the only bikes off the top of my head that are specced with 1.5 straight headtubes. There's probably some ebikes with it too and maybe I'm missing some semi-obscure thing. But, there just aren't that many bikes running that spec, so I can see how it wouldn't feel very urgent to bring something to market. It's a good thing the Works units are so good!
I believe DH bikes have the straight head tube (at least my Intense does).
 
I got the mounting hardware and tool that I needed to swap shocks but I wasn’t paying attention when I removed the air shock. Do these collars need to go on a certain way? I’m not sure what the little channels are for. Which orientation is correct? A or B?

A.
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B.
Image
 
I got the mounting hardware and tool that I needed to swap shocks but I wasn’t paying attention when I removed the air shock. Do these collars need to go on a certain way? I’m not sure what the little channels are for. Which orientation is correct? A or B?

A.
View attachment 2023603

B.
View attachment 2023604
Photo A is the way that RockShox sends them out on their shocks. They are designed to be an accordion fold to fit the varying degrees of shock fitment on all kinds of bikes.
 
I got the mounting hardware and tool that I needed to swap shocks but I wasn’t paying attention when I removed the air shock. Do these collars need to go on a certain way? I’m not sure what the little channels are for. Which orientation is correct? A or B?

A.
View attachment 2023603

B.
View attachment 2023604
What tool did you go with?
 
Is it safe to assume you need to remove the lower shock mounting pin in order to fully remove the air can from the stock SDU?
 
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