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LOL, I'd need to bust out the high school trig skills to figure that out, but steepening the fork will raise the BB and slacken the seat tube angle, all things being equal - switching to the low shock position would offset some (or all) of that difference.
Interesting. Hadn’t considered angleset with the flip chip. Would a 1 degree plus low setting leave you somewhere around 63.5 HTA? How does that affect kinematics?
 
Interesting. Hadn’t considered angleset with the flip chip. Would a 1 degree plus low setting leave you somewhere around 63.5 HTA? How does that affect kinematics?
Transition publishes different leverage curves for the shorter or longer chainstay (XL, XXL) models, but doesn't say anything about kinematics or overall progression changing with the flip chip. 1 degree plus low would put you at 63.5.
 
So I plugged the numbers in on the Mad Scientist MTB Calculator. This is for a large, in low, with a 1.5 degree angleset. Using Transitions factory geometry figures, note, when I physically measured my bike, the bottom bracket was 7mm lower but just to give an idea so real life might vary a bit. I remember one of the websites, I think Pinkbike, physically measured a few bikes and found they were all pretty far off the factory specs for the most part.

Stock/Angleset
Head Angle 62.5/63.5
Reach 480/477 (shouldn't this be longer? I'm not that smart)
Effective Seat tube 78.1/77.6
BB Height 339.95/343.82(note, when I measured mine in high it was actually 343 vs specs saying 350)
Wheelbase 1289.32/1276.04
Calculated rear center 446.86/447.12
Calculated Front Center 842.47/828.84
 
I waffled for a while between 1.5° and 1° on the headset. When I did the geometry calculator 0.5° brings the front center in roughly 5mm. With that I settled on 1° as I thought 15 mm was a bit too much for the character of the bike. I also used my current bike's geometry and what I wanted in my next bike to make that decision. It will also still get me under the magic 64° head angle in low which I'm not sure I've ever ridden a bike that slack yet... definitely haven't owned one.

Also on paper the stack on this thing is super low in a large. I haven't really measured or compared to my current bike yet though. Still waiting on some stuff to show up to build the Spire and then I'll start messing with everything.
 
Started preliminarily digging into my bike today. I see what everybody's talking about regarding the inner routing tube for the dropper.

I plan to somehow cut that shorter. Either with a sharpened piece of 1/2" copper tubing down the seat tube or maybe from the bottom bracket with a hacksaw, I'm not sure yet. The seat tube is quite a bit forward from the bottom bracket unfortunately. I haven't had my cranks out yet to see what kind of access there may be or if there's any clearance at all from the BB insert.

Any ideas or advice on this?

TBD...
 
Question—
To switch from the air shock to the coil shock I need these pieces (reducers?).

Image


The frame spec page says this:
Image



Is this what I need to buy?

Image


 
Question—
To switch from the air shock to the coil shock I need these pieces (reducers?).

View attachment 2022527

The frame spec page says this:
View attachment 2022525


Is this what I need to buy?

View attachment 2022526

That’s what you need to buy. I noticed that Fanatik is out of stock. So then I looked at LostCo and Worldwide Cyclery. They’re both out of stock too. I stopped looking—you can look yourself! But, you should be able to press out the hardware from the air shock and transfer it over to your coil if you’re not able to find what you’re looking for in stock anywhere.
 
That’s what you need to buy. I noticed that Fanatik is out of stock. So then I looked at LostCo and Worldwide Cyclery. They’re both out of stock too. I stopped looking—you can look yourself! But, you should be able to press out the hardware from the air shock and transfer it over to your coil if you’re not able to find what you’re looking for in stock anywhere.
Is there a good way to press them out without marring them up?
 
Is there a good way to press them out without marring them up?
These have gotten really inexpensive...


Before I got that tool kit I just used a vice and a socket set, with some care you can do it without scratching anything. It doesn't take that much force to r&r the hardware.

That tool kit is for bearings but could work for this, may need to use a socket or something to get more travel.

EDIT, also this...

 
Fox hardware will work too, rockshox seems to always be out of stock but the fox stuff is usually in stock. RWC also makes a kit you can use


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Yup, was just coming back to say this. Fanatik does indeed have the 8x30 that @Nat needs.

 
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