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Anyone with an alloy spire have frame alignment issues? Mines out of alignment, however, transition being the glorious bastards they are, are honoring the warranty as if I were the original owner although I bought it second hand. Apparently this is a manufacturing issue. Pictures showing the shock sits off to one side very slightly, apparently it’s enough to blow some rear shocks.
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This thing had been sitting on the rack since September last year. Separated my shoulder the day it came in, then messed up my knee. Finally have a few rides on it now though. When I first got it, the plan was actually to build it a lot bigger, I was living in Washington and riding Thrillium every day, so was going to put a dual crown and a coil on it. Had a bit of a sudden move to Phoenix and decided to build it a bunch lighter, but still tough enough for the chunk. It's right at 30.1 pounds with Michelin Wild Enduro's front and rear, which so far, seems to be enough tire around here. Superdeluxe with a Megneg and a Mezzer (without the Oneup Pump in that weight). Plus a bunch of other odd's and ends that lighten it up a ton. I wish I had more thoughts or insights on it, but I've been off the bike for so long and my fitness is crap. That said, if I remember my Megatower well, this definitely pedals more enthusiastically and feels more energetic in general. Yet also just easier for me to ride. I never quite got the rear end on the Mega working well, and personally think that the Superdeluxe I had on it was just the wrong shock for that bike and needed a tune to make it work, or better yet, just bolt a coil on. The geometry works for my long arms (5'11", 6'6" wingspan) and it feels like I'm centered/slightly forwardish easily which feels like it drives the front into the ground more. It's not something I consciously have to think of anyway. It feels more like my motorcycle days to me with all the room to move around easily to get the feel you want. The Mezzer felt bang on right from the first ride with the PSI a little between the spreadsheet on the Mezzer thread and Manitou's reccomendations. I forget where I'm at with clickers, and will likely end up tweaking this anyway as my pace and fitness picks up. The SuperDeluxe with the Megneg is about 85 percent there and may require some fiddling with tokens to get it right. But close enough for now. I keep stalling on a little annoying punchy climb that I can do 85 percent of the time on my hardtail, but it's just due to figuring out my weight distribution a bit and my rusty skills. That said, not sure that having a super long front (and back) end is going to make it the most fun technical climber out there. I'm actually going to take it on a bit of a recovery ride tomorrow that is more flowy XC stuff. Obviously not what it's meant for, but it pedals eagerly enough that I rather ride it than my hardtail just due to fit. It's actually a little lighter even. Anyway, might take a couple months for me to have any real opinion. Out of shape and riding in a totally different part of the country than I'm used to. That said, had I known I was moving to Phoenix when I got it, likely would have got a Sentinel. You can definitely build this thing up super sporty, but it's still a 170/170 bike at the end of the day. However, it will get some road trips to bike parks so it's not worth it to me to try and swap bikes again with how crazy everything is. I'll keep messing with the Superdeluxe for the next few months, then decide if I want to either send it off to Avy or just go coil on it.

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that having a super long front (and back) end is going to make it the most fun technical climber out there.
I find when tracking up/over things the length gives more stability and traction. I have avoided most bikes in the past few years with short chain stays because they tend to make the rear struggle when traction is needed. Sure a little short snappy bike will be efficient over tech terrain; or if you're the Trail Boss and basically use trials skills to hop up things... maybe shorter is better. But for me, "tech" is lots of loose uphill obstacles and ledges where I want traction. I'd much rather have a bike with a 1250 wb than 1200 on pretty much any trail climb...or any riding for that matter. In relation to a full sized human an extra inch or two wb seems small but beneficial. But each to their own. 😁
 
Yeah. I probably described that wrong. I meant loose, rocky and having to make sharp turns at the same time. If it’s a straight up kind of deal, it pretty much motors up everything. Just sit and spin really. The one that pisses me off is steep, loose and a bit of a switchback. I just can’t get the timing right. I really think it’s more me than the bike though.
 
You explained it fine. I was just saying that the commonly said thing about long bikes and climbing is not my own experience. I meant what you meant...loose, difficult, rocky, and if you want to throw in a 150 degree switchback... doesn't change my opinion. For me it was just adjusting to a different format. But don't get me wrong...a 170mm bike will have some downsides for trail riding.
 
I love the Avy Bomber CR on this bike! I am sure it is not the last one I'll own....great shock. It may very well be Craig's masterpiece.

The Spire only has 22% progression stock, which will work with a coil but you tend to choose between not bottoming out and having it super sensitive/plush off the top. Cascade bumps it to 28% so you can run a stiffer spring but it is still buttery off the top due to the higher initial leverage. Stiffer spring prevents bottom out.

I had an EXT as well on this bike at the same time. I did a decent amount of testing back to back and the Avy Bomber not only felt better (smoother, more "open" feeling, more sensitive), but it was faster both descending and even in pedaly sections with no lock out lever.

This setup feels like a 200mm DH bike in the rear, but it pedals great. It does that "plop and stick" DH thing when you drop the rear wheel. 💰
 
Another short ride. Cleared the little climb that was annoying me pretty easily. Came a click off on rebound and added some pressure to the Superdeluxe. Felt a lot better actually. The Mezzer just does it's thing in the background, I really like that fork. Otherwise, mostly same comments as before. I figure another month to get really in shape and a couple bike park days before I really know the bike though.
 
anyone anyone try the cascade link with an 11-6? Debating throwing that on mine. The Zeb is at 170 now, but could bump it to 180 since I already have the parts. Not looking forward to finding out what a stiffer push spring costs though.
 
I have the Base alloy NX model out as loaner as I wait for my Orbea Rallon. This thing is tank - literally weighing in at 38lbs.

I need some help with suspension setup. I'm usually pretty close to Fox/frame recommendations - but going with that did not work. I'm about 150lbs kitted up. I started with the factory reco's:

Marzocchi Z1: 68psi, 11clicks rebound
Float X: 150psi, 9clicks rebound

But it was way to bouncy and midstroke seemed harsh so I dialed down to:
Marzocchi Z1: 60psi, 10clicks rebound
Float X: 140psi, 8click rebound

Better - but still feels a bit bouncy and harsh.

Any suggestions?
 
No experience with those units, but the Spire frame seems to be responding better with slightly stiffer settings. None of that 35% sag business. Starts hanging up and wallowing in hard corners with a softer setting. Feel like it could still use some more progression in some areas.
 
No experience with those units, but the Spire frame seems to be responding better with slightly stiffer settings. None of that 35% sag business. Starts hanging up and wallowing in hard corners with a softer setting. Feel like it could still use some more progression in some areas.
Looking at the Transition setup chart I'm not that far off on air pressure - I setup the fork based on the sticker, but probably Fox/Marzocchi keeps one reco chart inrespective of travel of Z1 and the Transtition recos are lower pressure.

However the rebound dampening dial is pretty off for the Float X. I did another bounce test and to prevent top up ossilation I have to run 6 clicks of rebound vs. 9 recommended from their chart. Maybe they changed the tune on the Float X? I guess, I'll need to do another round of testing. I've had test bikes that were 40psi over the recommended settings for my weight and they didn't feel this bad.
 
Don't pay much attention to the Fox rebound setup chart in the manual if that's what you're looking at. Every Float X that comes stock on a bike has a different rebound tune.

The Transition Fox rebound tune is digressive, which means it's slower at low speeds, and faster at higher speeds.

Set air pressure for 30% sag, adjust rebound and LSC to how you like it.
 
Don't pay much attention to the Fox rebound setup chart in the manual if that's what you're looking at. Every Float X that comes stock on a bike has a different rebound tune.

The Transition Fox rebound tune is digressive, which means it's slower at low speeds, and faster at higher speeds.

Set air pressure for 30% sag, adjust rebound and LSC to how you like it.
I was looking at the Transition chart which they seem to make for the specific build kit (Alloy NX). But now looking at the Fox chart - they are totally different. The Transition seems to imply less rebound tuning range with rebound click only range from 10 to 7 clicks for (120-260lbs) - which seems very odd, but I do agree each click makes noticeable difference. I guess, I'll ignore the charts and keep tuning based on feel.
 
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