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What do I reset after the change? Do I start a new session after every adjustment?
Every time you change anything you should start a new session.

First runs you'll be looking at air pressure. Did you need to add or remove air pressure? Reset the session until you get a green on air pressure.

Once that's green, then you move to volume spacers. If you need to change those at all, you need to do the entire compression ratio setup procedure again and start a new session.
Each time you change volume spacers, you MUST do the compression ratio setup procedure and start a new session.

Make sure you put the same air pressure in that got you to the green air pressure setting too.
You might notice the air pressure isn't green anymore after you change volume spacers, so you may need to start over with air pressure again.

When you've finally gotten green on air pressure and volume spacers, start a new session and keep moving down the line, starting a new session each time you make any adjustment to compression or rebound, even if it's just one click. Although I recommend following the guide when adjusting compression and rebound and going at least 2 clicks so you can work your way to the correct setting.

Also, you should have at least two profiles created and stored. One for your fork and one for your shock (if you have one).
Each of these will have a different compression ratio, which is most important, and other details.
When you switch from fork to shock, upload the shock profile so you're working with the correct compression ratio.
When you move it back to the fork, upload the fork profile so you have the correct compression ratio to start with.
 
Direct from SRAM:

Anytime you add or remove spacers you need to recalibrate the compression ratio. Anytime you change air pressure, compression or rebound you need to start a new session.


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What I mean is that on video from SRAM ( 4:03 ) they are telling that Baseline and Air Spring should be tuned as a pair.


That means, if I need to tune the baseline and the air spring. It should be done at same time ? Or I can start with baseline and than calibrate and then do the air spring.

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What I mean is that on video from SRAM ( 4:03 ) they are telling that Baseline and Air Spring should be tuned as a pair.


That means, if I need to tune the baseline and the air spring. It should be done at same time ? Or I can start with baseline and than calibrate and then do the air spring.

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You have to start with some token (or no tokens), but you have to start somewhere.

Say your fork has 2 tokens.

Get your air pressure to green. Then if your tokens still needs to be adjusted, add or remove tokens...recal and go ride. You will probably have to adjust your baseline air pressure after changing tokens. And continue this process and until both are green.

Does that make sense? You only need to recal when adding/removing tokens.

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Sounds good :thumbsup:, by the video from SRAM I thought that I should do both adjustment at same time.

Tuning SD ultimate shock. Actually shock has one gnar dog 2.5. So I should remove some air check for green and than check for removing gnar dog and replace it maybe for 1 token.

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Sounds good :thumbsup:, by the video from SRAM I thought that I should do both adjustment at same time.

Tuning SD ultimate shock. Actually shock has one gnar dog 2.5. So I should remove some air check for green and than check for removing gnar dog and replace it maybe for 1 token.

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I don't see how both can be done at the same time. They are dependent on each other. If you change one, the other will be effected. The key is to have those both green with high level of confidence before moving on to any of the other settings.

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Well this is the doubt I had by watching that video.
On the video they are telling you, that both should be done first and as a pair and then proceed to the others.
So this would tell, I should remove air and token at same time and than do a recalibration like told on video and not making adjustment on baseline and then after green on baseline check for air spring. :confused:
 
shockwiz

Do you have the steps above the lsc set up correctly first and did you reset your shockwiz after making the changes? I don't know if you have to completely recalibrate it after making changes, but I do know there was something like this. Even after using the shockwiz and making it happy, I made changes to my fork. I run 12 clicks from open out of 18 on my fork, but I doubt closing it is appropriate...
 
I just got a ripmo v2 with a 36 grip2 and a float x2. I only have one ShockWiz. Last time I used it I was running an elevensix so I only had the fork to worry about. Should I try and get the fork dialed first or the shock?

My plan was to get one pretty much dialed, then do the other, then spot check the first to see if recommendations change. But I’m not sure which to start with and I’d rather not buy a second ShockWiz.
 
I just got a ripmo v2 with a 36 grip2 and a float x2. I only have one ShockWiz. Last time I used it I was running an elevensix so I only had the fork to worry about. Should I try and get the fork dialed first or the shock?

My plan was to get one pretty much dialed, then do the other, then spot check the first to see if recommendations change. But I'm not sure which to start with and I'd rather not buy a second ShockWiz.
You don't need two of them. I would recommend starting with the base recommended setting from Fox on both.
After you take it for a few rides, whichever seems like it needs the most adjustment, start there. Once it's dialed in, switch the ShockWiz to the other and continue tuning.
 
Yeah takes a lot longer to setup with one obviously but remember once we have each end dial theres limited use for Shockwiz unless we go somewhere new of course.

Question I have is even after you guys have shocks dialled do you keep on gathering data? I can see my leaving it on but of course a bit unsightly
 
Question I have is even after you guys have shocks dialled do you keep on gathering data? I can see my leaving it on but of course a bit unsightly
I've been setting up tuning profiles for every local trail I ride. We have enough variations that I can create fork and shock tunes for each of them, although I've been finding the rear shock tunes seem to be the same for all.
 
Funny you say that. My rear shock was easy top get right. 94 tuning score. Just needed to get PSI right and other settings were pretty much green. Front shock much harder. Would have done 10 outings to get to 88
 
I assumed there was a way to save "session suggestions", but I can't seem to find it! Maybe there is no way, would just be convenient and leave a trail as to what has been done.
 
Hi All, need some help here.

I've been using my Shockwiz and got my SB100's DPS Factory tuned. I was able to get high confidence with all recommendations after about 45 minutes of riding.

Now I'm tuning my Ripley V4's DPS Performance. Calibrated it and started riding. I got 49% confidence after about 30 minutes of riding, and it got stuck on 49% even after about an hr of riding. I started a new session, rode for an hr, and no score, as if no data was collected.

How long does it usually take for Shockwiz to collect sufficient data? Not sure what I'm missing here. It worked just fine when I was tuning the SB100, pretty straight forward at that time, but not anymore now that I'm on my Ibis. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
Hi All, need some help here.

I've been using my Shockwiz and got my SB100's DPS Factory tuned. I was able to get high confidence with all recommendations after about 45 minutes of riding.

Now I'm tuning my Ripley V4's DPS Performance. Calibrated it and started riding. I got 49% confidence after about 30 minutes of riding, and it got stuck on 49% even after about an hr of riding. I started a new session, rode for an hr, and no score, as if no data was collected.

How long does it usually take for Shockwiz to collect sufficient data? Not sure what I'm missing here. It worked just fine when I was tuning the SB100, pretty straight forward at that time, but not anymore now that I'm on my Ibis. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Umm...screen shots?

Figure 30 minutes of riding should give you something, unless you're on smooth pavement or something.

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Hi All, need some help here.

I've been using my Shockwiz and got my SB100's DPS Factory tuned. I was able to get high confidence with all recommendations after about 45 minutes of riding.

Now I'm tuning my Ripley V4's DPS Performance. Calibrated it and started riding. I got 49% confidence after about 30 minutes of riding, and it got stuck on 49% even after about an hr of riding. I started a new session, rode for an hr, and no score, as if no data was collected.

How long does it usually take for Shockwiz to collect sufficient data? Not sure what I'm missing here. It worked just fine when I was tuning the SB100, pretty straight forward at that time, but not anymore now that I'm on my Ibis. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I think it really depends on the trail you're riding and if you hit everything ShockWiz is looking for.

I've personally never hit a completed tuning session in under 90mins of riding my local trails. But I assume that's because the type of terrain ShockWiz needs is spread out across the entire length of the trails.
 
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