[Medrep]

So I’ve added a 4th token and dropped 5psi as the wiz told me. Took it down the same trails and it still wants more air reduced and add a further token. Which is not possible to do as I’m at maximum tokens for the fork.

I decided to ride a trail today, which is renown for technical climbing and very technical rock garden descents, roots, berms, it’s all there basically.

It’s the first time I’ve rideen the magic Mary on bone dry hardpack, but something just didn’t it feel right. The wiz is still telling me to drop more air and add a spacer. In the chunk it felt ok, but in the fast berms it was nervous. I am not sure if some of that was attributed to the Mary not gripping as well as my long standing DHF use.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what the next steps should be. I am running no LSC as per suggestions, it’s green, as is rebound. EDIT: it’s LSR and HSR that are green. LSC says make softer, which it is already open.

Dynamic sag is fluctuating between 6-15%.

I have had dynamic sag at 24% once but only at 49% confidence.

All other suggestions are at 79-100% confidence. Im taking screenshots immediately after every DH run

I’d like to blame the tyre, but I’m not sure where the wiz is taking me?

It’s suggestions are consistent. There is some fire road pedalling in the mix, but not much.

Thanks again.

Just to note, my psi increased at one point from the base 75psi to 81.6 on a long DH run, although that may have been me slightly resting on the bike. I was knackered 

 

[Medrep]

I would also like to know this, and also is it not recommended to run a different tune from front to rear.

Sorry to hijack slightly.

 

[Medrep]

The more I think about this, the more I am realising the balanced tune does not suit me with the way it’s going. I’ve appreciated the suggestions so far, but now the elusive score is making the ride more squishy than I would like.

‘If’ active means more suspension travel used, then I think I will try Firm and Active, or Firm and Planted.

 

[Hillridge]

Here's another secret. You can change modes while looking at results and see how that affects the score.

I will definitely take a look at this tomorrow. I was wondering if you could do this, and I'm curious if another tune style might be closer to what I have.

I was able to get 3x 100% confidence sessions in during today's ride. The first result was identical to the last one I posted above, but the terrain was pretty tame.

Second one moved the LSR to OK and HSC to yellow from red.

Third moved the LSR back to yellow.

I noted all of my settings and they still seem reasonable, not too extreme from the factory default tune. LSR was the farthest out at 15 clicks in the + direction (default is 10, max is 18). A high LSR isn't too surprising given the pressure I need to run the shock at for my weight.

Tomorrow I'll be riding at the same place I was yesterday, so I may make some minor tweaks and see what I get.

 

[askibum02]

I just installed a piston with a larger negative air chamber on my '17 Fox 36. It's definitely more supple on the small stuff, and seems to still do okay on the larger stuff, after adding about another 5-7 psi. I didn't adjust the LSC/HSC or rebound. Would I benefit from hooking a ShockWiz on to further dial in the compression? Or should I just go by feel?

 

[alexbn921]

I just installed a piston with a larger negative air chamber on my '17 Fox 36. It's definitely more supple on the small stuff, and seems to still do okay on the larger stuff, after adding about another 5-7 psi. I didn't adjust the LSC/HSC or rebound. Would I benefit from hooking a ShockWiz on to further dial in the compression? Or should I just go by feel?

1-3 clicks softer on the LSC should bring everything back to perfect with the new more supportive spring curve. I didn't need to touch my rebound on my 34 with the same mod. The extra mid-stroke support also let me take out 1/2 a spacer. 1 was to much so I cut it in half.

How long has it been since you tuned with the wiz? Do you still ride the same or are you better/faster now?

 

[askibum02]

Yesterday was my first ride with the new piston, and I was following a more timid rider, so I was quite a bit slower. I plan on getting out more this week and weekend at more my normal speed. I am riding a little more confidently than when i tuned with the ShockWiz, but it hasn't been all that long, maybe a month and a half.

 

[IRBent]

1-3 clicks softer on the LSC should bring everything back to perfect with the new more supportive spring curve. I didn't need to touch my rebound on my 34 with the same mod. The extra mid-stroke support also let me take out 1/2 a spacer. 1 was to much so I cut it in half.

How long has it been since you tuned with the wiz? Do you still ride the same or are you better/faster now?

Are you guys riding with the Luftkappe in your Fox forks? If so, do you think it's as awesome in your Fox as I do my Pike?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[alexbn921]

Are you guys riding with the Luftkappe in your Fox forks? If so, do you think it's as awesome in your Fox as I do my Pike?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Fox has a 2018 upgraded air shaft for $40 that gives a much larger negative chamber. Also getting the 10-15cc of grease they stuff in there during assembly gives a much more supple feel.
Yes, I like it a lot better.

 

[Medrep]

Does anyone understand the definition of Active, in relation to Playful and Poppy.

Just trying to work out the best custom tune to try.

And is it frowned upon to use different tunes front to rear, eg front Firm/Firmest, rear neutral.

Thanks again.

 

[Rick Draper]

Fox has a 2018 upgraded air shaft for $40 that gives a much larger negative chamber. Also getting the 10-15cc of grease they stuff in there during assembly gives a much more supple feel.
Yes, I like it a lot better.

But the 2018 airshaft is not compatible with older forks.

 

[alexbn921]

But the 2018 airshaft is not compatible with older forks.

I have a 34. your right about the 36.

 

[IRBent]

Fox has a 2018 upgraded air shaft for $40 that gives a much larger negative chamber. Also getting the 10-15cc of grease they stuff in there during assembly gives a much more supple feel.
Yes, I like it a lot better.

Adding more negative space seems to be the trend. Rockshox did the same thing. Vorsprung Suspension developed their Luftkappe for the Pike fork in late 2016. It essentially replaces the original piston, adds more negative space while also reducing positive space. Most of the reviews that I've read comparing the Luftkappe and the new airshaft assembly tend to say the Luftkappe does a better job than the new airshaft. I added the Luftkappe prior to Rockshox following Vorsprung's lead to develop the new airshaft and I'm totally happy with the outcome. No reason for me to consider the OEM product. You're right too, liberal use of SRAM Butter, Slick Honey, or Slickoleum will make everything smoother.

 

[Seventh-777]

Mine is on the UPS truck today, and I'm getting the app setup so i can attach it and go riding. Super excited for this thing - I have a ton of bikes and am looking forward to the tuning.

Question: For the baseline air pressure, the manufacturer recommendation sticker on the side of my fork (Lyric 170mm) reads 80psi. I run it at 60psi with one air token. Am I better off starting from scratch at 80psi with no tokens at all, or should I start with the fork profile in the app configured to where I think it feels good?

Also - compression ratio - that's determined when I actually do the calibration, right? There's an option to put it in the fork profile manually, but I've no idea what it is yet.

 

[alexbn921]

Run the compression ratio 3 or 4 times and don't inflate after each time. You can set the baseline psi latter. Remember that TOP out with an air negative is not the same as pulling on the fork as hard as you can. This will over extend it.
I like to start with 20 psi on initial calibration and subtract 5 each time I do it. You will have 4 values that should all be within 0.1 of each other.
Time to test. Put 40ish psi in the fork and set baseline pressure. Compress the fork exactly 50%(or an easy to measure amount) and verify the the wiz sees the same travel. A lower compression ratio will make the Wiz think you are using more travel than you are and higher less. If you want a stiffer fork pick the lower of the average numbers during calibration.
My fork has a compression ratio of 2.8-2.9. I like the results better with 2.8 as they leave 5% of travel for oh **** moments.

 

[Seventh-777]

Thanks!

Just did a 10 mile ride with it, trying to session everything it recommended. Definitely addicting, I kept stopping every 5 minutes to check the stats on my phone (while getting annihilated by mosquitoes).

Couple of noob questions. Apologies if these are answered already, I plan to finish RTFM-ing and going through the thread this evening.

- About 3 miles in, I checked the app and it said to add air pressure. I added 10lbs, and it turned the calibration indicator red. I assume this is because something changed while the bike was idle? I had to restart the session, but am not 100% sure why it made the calibration unhappy.

Edit: RTFM'd a bit - looks like that's it. Don't change things on the fly, got it.

- Are profiles mostly just fancy notepads? I assumed that I would have to load one when starting a new session (eg: so it would know that I'm tuning my fork on my Nomad instead of the shock on my Scalpel). Is the idea basically to calibrate with the wizard, then save those into profiles so you can enter them later and skip calibration?

 

[IRBent]

Thanks!

Just did a 10 mile ride with it, trying to session everything it recommended. Definitely addicting, I kept stopping every 5 minutes to check the stats on my phone (while getting annihilated by mosquitoes).

Couple of noob questions. Apologies if these are answered already, I plan to finish RTFM-ing and going through the thread this evening.

- About 3 miles in, I checked the app and it said to add air pressure. I added 10lbs, and it turned the calibration indicator red. I assume this is because something changed while the bike was idle? I had to restart the session, but am not 100% sure why it mad the calibration unhappy.

- Are profiles mostly just fancy notepads? I assumed that I would have to load one when starting a new session (eg: so it would know that I'm tuning my fork on my Nomad instead of the shock on my Scalpel). Is the idea basically to calibrate with the wizard, then save those into profiles so you can enter them later and skip calibration?

When you added air mid ride it changes everything about the shock. The red indicator is to let you know that you needed to reset the baseline air pressure and start a new session. So after adding air and riding more, did the Shockwiz ever make it to 100% confidence and if so, did it still suggest adding air?

As for the profiles, this season I've yet to completely use them or see how they're useful. I understood them last year when they first came out, but quit using the Shockwiz for 6-9 months and forgot. Maybe someone will help us both with that part of your question.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[alexbn921]

As IRbent said you need to reset your baseline air pressure after a change. Changing spacers will require getting a new compression ratio too.
profiles are like a snapshot of all the screens. I will save a profile at several spots on the ride and reset before strategic sections.

 

[Seventh-777]

You guys are awesome, thanks for the replies. I just went through the manual, and went to the part where it addressed exactly the question I asked, so thanks for not making fun of me too much about it, lol.

I never made it to 100% confidence but I did a lot of stopping/starting/resetting the session, just dicking around with it. I don't want to admit how many times I made small changes and had to reset the session because of calibration, but it was, uh... more than one lol.

I was just so stoked to go riding with it I just slapped the thing on and pedaled off into the woods immediately.

 

[IRBent]

It's all good. Doing what you did is an excellent way to better understand how the thing works. Rather than saving profile data, I stop periodically after finishing the suggested type of trail and take screenshots. Later I download all the screenshots for each section of trail, compare them with one another and their suggestions, make record of each in a spreadsheet, then proceed to make suggested changes. But only make changes if multiple rides all suggest the same thing. At least that's the way I manage it once I get close to honing in on final results.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk