I read more. People with harsh bikes, I'd immediately suspect the fork if it's a Fox Grip X. My (slightly) older 36 grip2 is plush but it's not the fork you get on a complete bike, and I set the sag by getting in the attack position and looking at it, instead of pumping it up to the specs Fox says. I'm at 67 psi for 18% sag, which is WAY under what Fox suggests for 180 pounds and on my last bike, which had the same fork except 27.5 (2021-2023 factory 36 grip2), I had almost identical air spring pressure. You then set rebound to match whatever air spring pressure you're using.

It could also be an issue with overly tight bushings, good suspension techs can fix it... or Fox can replace the lowers under warranty, but then it's a dice roll whether the new bushings are actually better.

If you have a stock shock, lighten the compression before you remove / reduce air spacers.

If you have an aftermarket shock and find it isn't as compliant as you expected, it's probably too much compression. Just put a '25 RS SDU on my son's Shred Dogg (mentioned in last reply) and started with the baseline suggestions and it was not awesome. 2 local shops rent Shockwiz and with it we learned that we were heavy on compression. I could see that very thing happening with the Ripmo (or Ripley) and then a person starts fiddling with everything and never finds a good baseline before they give up and sell the shock or just ride it flawed. BTW now that it's set up correctly, the SDU is a small bump eraser yet has awesome midstroke performance. I will buy one for my Ripmo someday, but for now I'm going to see what I can get out of the stock Float X factory.

 

Today I finally got my new-to-me Ripmo on the trail about 10 days after receiving it. Size large, 32lb 2oz with sealant, pedals, bottle cage but no frame bag installed.

It's a light build for being relatively burly:
Fox 36 160 grip2
XX SL cranks with wolftooth 32t oval
XX1 AXS with 10-52 cassette
stock Fox Float X shock
Front wheel is a Roval Traverse carbon with DT350 hub, rear is a Nobl 36 carbon with i9 hydra hub. they were available and they work 🤷
1200g Conti Kryptotals
Anvl 50mm stem with OneUp carbon V1 bars
TRP DHR Evo brakes with 203mm 2.3 rotors.

I found the Float X to be better than I expected. I need to reduce LSC one or two clicks and I'm happy with that as a baseline. The bike climbs so well and is so willing to pop kickers but it doesn't feel out of control hitting drops. There's a flat uphill connector between 2 loops on the trail and I used the climb switch - holy crap, seated, it pedaled like a hardtail.

I bought it very cheap from a guy who took axs t type off it for use on a emtb, and then sold the Ripmo as an incomplete bike. This worked perfectly for me as I would be building either a frame up or taking my xx1 axs off my old bike. I did see older comments about chain line without transmission. I am using 55mm and it was a pain in the butt fine tuning my non transmission axs derailleur as usual, dinking with the b screw and micro adjust throughout the first half of my ride despite initially setting it all up perfectly on the workstand.

I read as much of this thread as I could, and all of the much shorter Ripley v5 thread, which has Ripmo v3 stuff woven in as you guys surely know. One of the biggest things I read was about sizing concerns. I'm happy to say I got it right with the large and not a xm. I don't know what's going on with Ibis' geo chart compared to actually sitting on the bike, but I'm 6'0" 180lb and have wide shoulders and long arms (78" reach). My son's bike is a Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg size 4 which has very similar stack and reach on the geo charts but it feels significantly larger than my Ripmo and he has a 35mm stem... which is great, because he's 6'3" LOL.

 

hmmmm - 150 fork mode... Id prob get a higher rise handlebar to compensate for reducing the stack height but maybe thats the way to have 2 bikes in one versus 2 forks or a new fork that has internal travel adjust...

 

Yeah, my bad. I will say the Ripley rides fantastically with the 150mm FORK upfront. 😂

 

I probably wasn't clear. I'm taking about running it in full Ripmo 150mm travel mode with the appropriate clevis and shock, but with a 150mm fork vs 160. Ibis indicated the shorter stroke fork would drop the bb by around 4mm. Running the 150 fork allows you to switch between Ripmo and Ripley modes with just the shock/cleivs swap.

 

I probably wasn't clear. I'm taking about running it in full Ripmo 150mm travel mode with the appropriate clevis and shock, but with a 150mm fork vs 160. Ibis indicated the shorter stroke fork would drop the bb by around 4mm.

Aha. Yes, you did say 'shock' but you meant fork.

I would think that a 150mm fork would be a pretty good compromise to run both link & shock configurations. It will slacken the HTA and STA in Ripley mode and steepen it in Ripmo, but not by a lot. If I bought a 150mm air spring for my Fox 36, I'd probably try it in Ripmo mode and see if I even notice any difference.

 

Hey guys, I haven't been on MTBR in a long while, used to live here. I have a Ripmo V3 on the way, and while researching it I saw that you can swap links and shocks between Ripley and Ripmo and basically have the other bike, which is of some interest to me because I have a Cane Creek 210x55 on the shelf and I'm pretty certain it can be easily reduced to 210x52.5 for Ripley config. But then I doubt I'd be overly interested in buying a second fork. It's pretty damn fast and easy to do travel spacers in a Mezzer, and I suppose technically it's possible to swap a Fox air spring a few times a year. Has anyone tried this? I searched but didn't have my luck.

 

I've got the whole 2 x shocks and 2 x clevis with a Mezzer going on. Switching the shock configuration is a bit of a mess about but at least adjusting the Mezzer is super clean and simple. I've changed the air shaft in a 36 several times and I can't say it's the same. It would add enough messing around to make you either resent or not bother making the conversion in my opinion. Either get a Manitou fork, buy two forks or take the compromise at 150 travel like Ripn. You'd want to ensure you've got plenty of extra real estate on the fork steerer tube to get the stack high enough in the latter case

 

I'm wondering how many spacers you have then because according to Ibis you should have 4.5mm or 1.5mm (depending on the use of the ISCG 05 Tab or not) :

https://www.ibiscycles.com/downloads/BB_Install_Guide_D5.pdf

I'm using the ISCG tab, so I've put 1.5mm, resulting with a little of free space (that you normally fix by using the preload screw on the other side). I've put 2mm which seems to be the maximum (puting 2.5mm result in the crank not rotating freely) and my 30T is way to close.

 

Ok, well this seems to be really really tight between the chainring (30t for me) and the frame. I've ordered a Praxis chainring that has a 0mm offset, it will also get me to the correct 55 CL

 

Good to know. I might consider getting a 0 offset chainring at some stage in that case. I'm running a 32t chainring and there's about 1 mm gap to the edge of the chain guard rubber and about 2.5 mm to the actual chainstay frame. It works

 

Coil shock users, what do you weight and what weight spring are you using?

 

Hey, i'm around 165 fully equipped and using a 425LBS spring rate for about 27% SAG

 

Well no, your shock has a specific hydrolic/rebound tunning, and it should be written on it. something like R25C34X2 (meaning setting 25 for rebound, 34 for compression and 2 for lockout).
5

 

I suggest:

RockShox Vivid Ultimate RC2T Rear Shock, 230 x 60 mm, Vivid Air, 1 Token,
Reb25/Comp34, L/O4, Std, 8x40/8x25, C1, Canyon Spectral 2018+

This is what I have on mine, that my shop (Back Alley Bikes) confirmed with Ibis when they built it up for me last fall.

It's available online through various vendors such as Universal Cycles ( link )

 

Edit: Sorry double post

 

And what tuning for the vivid do you have? Recommended tuning from ibis or another tuning?

 

No special tuning, ordered it online so it's off the shelf. The Vivid Ultimate is the best off-the-shelf large air can shock you can get. I never thought I would see the day Rockshox passed Fox, but it's here and I'm enjoying it. It has the HBO too.

 

Having been on the bike since it was released, I can say this with confidence, it's an enduro/all-mountain bike. I began with the 230X60 size shock and went to Rockshox Ulitimate with the linear air can. That was so much better than the fox float X. However, the bike still felt sporty, coming off the SB160, I decided I wanted more traction. I went to the 230X65 RS Vivid Ultimate. In the summer, I have settled on a 31% sag. I run tire pressure at 23fr and 24/25Rear. Oh yeah, I have a Zeb Ultimate at 170mm. The bike is now a magic carpet ride. Great traction on repeated hits and roots, I would call it my Enduro/All mountain bike. Now added the Schwalbe Radial Alberts for about a month and it feels like a 170mm bike. Small bumps aren't even felt. I will probably ditch the radials though. They do work their magic, but they are draggy and put a lot of rolling resistance. If you are doing park days, it is no issue, or ebike. If you want more from your Ripmo v3, 230X65 is the way... Vivid Ultimate air, coil, or flight attendant, this is the way. Don't bother with the Fox stuff, take it off and sell it. Heck, run DVO, PUSH, Vorsprung, Ohlins or any other nice air or coil. If you are not wanting your Ripmo at 160mm of rear travel, I would go with a vivid 65 or 62.5 and that would smooth out the sportiness of it. I think the Fox tunes on the Ripmo are just way too stiff and the bike pings off everything. Thus, mixed reviews on the publicity.

 

Ah exactly what I wanted to read, thank you mate

 

Are there some people here with custom Ripmo / Ripley ? I wonder if a non wide Sram crankset would fit or not ?

 

full custom for mine, Ripley V5 frames, Ripmo clevis, RS Vivid Ultimate RC2T shock, RS Lyric Ultimate fork, Race Face ERA crankset, Race Face BSA BB, SRAM Eagle GX derailleur & cassette, SRAM Eagle X01 shifter.

Shop originally built it with 0 offset Wolf Tooth type B chainring (only Cinch 0 offset ring they could find) with 1 mm axle spacers on both sides (outboard of bearings).

Worked well but eventually got really noisy - the chain on the chainring. Reading-up on things the current Wolf Tooth info states the type B ring is built compatible with SRAM flat-top chain ... which has larger rollers than older Eagle chain. Hmm.

Couldn't find a 0 offset ring that was NOT built for either the SRAM flat-top or new Shimano 12 Spd chain (also with larger rollers), so I went with a 3mm offset (aka Boost 148) Cinch chainring from Race Face.

To make up for the 3mm offset ring, I took the NDS 1mm spindle spacer off and added a 2.5 mm BB spacer on the DS between bearing cup and frame, pulling the crank ~ 2.5 further to the right.

Setup works "like a treat" ... perfect chainline (within 0.5mm of spec), totally quiet on the chainring and all cogs of the cassette.

footnote: The Race Face Cinch cranksets have replaceable spindles, easy to adjust width for the bike. I'd also note different BB cups have different width, for example my next BB set may be a Cane Creek Hellbender, I think those are little more wide vs the Race Face cups I have now. We'll see how long the RF BB lasts.

 

Can someone with a xm Ripmo share the float x tune with me? I am looking to put a float x on my Ripmo v2 and wanted to see how the ibis traction tune is different than the aftermarket tune.

 

Anyone catch the weight difference of the new Ripmo AF vs the V3?

 

That’s comparing carbon pro build to the AF build with deore… I imagine the frame weight on its own is no more than a pound. Very curious to hear what it actually is

 

Long time no talk here...

Have a LG Ripmo.. Zeb 2024 @170.. First ride with the float X and it had to go.. Installed a 2024 RS SDU, felt more composed.. Still, not awesome, felt too soft or kinda restricted in the mid-long stroke, I figured the new 2025 damper head would solve it. Anyways, I had a Gen 1 Mara Pro on another bike, an Esker Elkat, which I was tinkering with as it felt way too soft and divey. Realized I had not read Manitou set up recommendations and finally tweaked it and bike felt waaay better...

So, took it to the Ripmo and Shait!! Now even the Zeb feels alive! if the gen 2 is better given that it has the adjustable neg chamber..wow.. Mrwhlr is right.. Now I'd love to compare it with the 2025 SDU or Vivid.

I have another Mara Pro on my HD5 with a Zeb RC2.1 damber, that I just did the same adjustments and will be testing this weekend.

Now I'm debating if I change that Zeb for an Intend Hero Fork, or Mezzer Pro so I can adjust travel and not forks when changing between Ripley configuration and get another Mara Pro or 2025 Super Deluxe for the back, or keep the Zeb and Save a ton with the DVO Diamond 36 package deal with the Topaz Prime...

 

Currently have Oso 180/170 and looking to get another bike. I had a Riamo V1 for a month before i bought the Oso and regret it selling it.

170/160 Ripmo MX stock 36 or 180/165 HD6 stock 38? 🧐

Riding in Bay Area.

 

Hear me now, listen to me later: Mara Pro Piggyback.

 

pre-2023? IDK - it seemed that 2023 was the major update that really vaulted RS shocks into a new realm. And than a subtle update to the MY25 (piston). The shock Im curious about - DVO Topaz Prime. They are running sales on these albeit not truly cheap. I always liked my Topaz on previous AF/V2 and with the HSC/LSC adjustments, this is one that most intrigues me. If I didn't have a 210x55 MY 23 RS SDU - id get the Prime for my upcoming Ripley conversion.
The DVO bundles tho - basically buy the new 36sl fork at a discount and get the Prime for free... thats tempting right there for a full on conversion kit

 

Is this case is linear vs progressive just a function of air volume? ie: bigger can, more volume, more linear? I assume this is related but separate from the compression and rebound tune?
edit to add: the shock I’m looking at is a 2022 model which doesn’t appear to be compatible with the XL can.

 

Is this case is linear vs progressive just a function of air volume? ie: bigger can, more volume, more linear?

No, the linear/progressive is tied to the shock design itself. The bigger air volume gives you a greater range of settings, plus it's like a big vs. small rotor - the more air it has, the longer it takes to heat up before it gets too hot and performance starts to suffer. The latter is why bigger cans are better for heavier riders, or extended downhill riding.

 

It might be "linear" as in the air can - which is the best option for a progressive suspension design as I understand it from the Rockshox info about it - god I hope I didn't just open mouth and insert foot! . I have the linear air can on mine and will remount it as a long stroke this weekend. In addition to long stroke, shop is adding the newer piston design of the 2025 update.

For me when I tried the RS SDU - it was waaaay better than Fox - and I should have spent more time trying/tuning, but I had a bonus for work and pulled a Vivid Air which has really had me getting on w the v3 VERY well.. I cant wait to try the SDU w 25 update, but won't be apples/apples as I pulled the travel reducer to try it also as a long stroke. Dont see a downside to a great deal if you are Mo-curious! You seem like a rider that will surely be able to test/tune and offer some solid feedback here.

 

It might be "linear" as in the air can - which is the best option for a progressive suspension design as I understand it from the Rockshox info about it - god I hope I didn't just open mouth and insert foot! .

You are correct in that for the Ripmo (or any progressive suspension design), you want the linear version. The progressive version has a small bulge at the base of the air can, while the linear is straight. However, Ibis recommends the XL air can as their first choice for the Ripmo, then the regular linear as the 2nd. My guess is due to fade and rider weight. Heavier riders will benefit more from the XL. Lighter riders are probably perfectly fine, except maybe very long bike park downhill descents.

 

For those running the RS Super Deluxe on their Ripmo's what rebound and compression tune are you using? Some ridiculous eBay deals on those right now. The one I'm looking at shows both rebound and compression tuning as L, which I assume means light?

 

Has anybody been able to find any info on the kinematics of the RIpmo V3? I found a leverage curve on Avalanche Suspension's website. Had a realized there was 30% progressiveness I wouldn't have put a MRP progressive spring on my EXT Storia. I feel like one of my jump landings at the bike park yesterday also pogo'd me into outerspace.

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Bike%20set%20ups/2025%20Ripmo%20V3.htm