[jannmayer]

I didn't know this was a thing. I wonder if your pumps can be modified to work without a core. My Topeak Joe Blow works without a core and my cheap Blackburn from Walmart does as well. I will have to check the OneUp EDC Pump when I get home.

I have an old Park Tools floor pump (PFP-3, I think) that works great without the core.

 

[mtb128pedal]

Anyone experimented with adding layers of tape to close the tire bead and seat gap? Seems the plastic strip for Bontrager wheels is tighter. But when I break a spoke I tear up the strip getting it out. Tape I’ve been able to reuse. Two layers I need the air compressor. I plan to try two more next time I take the tire off the rear wheel.

 

[Cleared2land]

Everyone has what works for them when taping.
I keep tape away from tire bead area. My objective is appropriately covering the spoke holes and keeping tire on the rim. One wrap layer works for many years.

 

[speedygz]

If you're in no hurry to fit your new tyres when they arrive, simply turn them inside out, & leave them inside in a warm place for a week or so. This makes the sidewalls of the tyre want to flare out when you turn them right way round to fit. Which is the exact thing all these other methods are trying to achieve

 

[aerius]

Fire fixes everything. Though it may explode everything if you get too carried away.

 

[dysfunction]

Fire fixes everything. Though it may explode everything if you get too carried away.

It's more sporty when a truck tire blows off the bead.

And I've seen that happen.

 

[noapathy]

Fire and plastic tubeless tape - what could go wrong?

 

[Grinchy8]

I've had a few right fights with a 26er 90s era clincher 17mm rim going tubeless this week. Tried Kapton, powder coat tape, Whiskey (it was too wide to start), Xtreme Tape. The rim already had some Gorilla clear adhesive on it from a couple summers ago, and was previously successful with 3 layers of shrink wrap over that (would go flat in a couple months, but that's not unheard of in the tubeless world). Trouble is shrink wrap is one time use as it tears on dismount, and I'd run out doing some packing chores. I also didn't have any solvent handy, so was working on the tacky, gummed up rim.

I found that the Xtreme tape (self sealing silicone rubber) would seal with the floor pump very easily, but was getting punctured by longer spokes at higher pressures, as it was stretchy and pushed down into the nipple access hole. When it gets punctured it tears off like a cut rubber band under tension would.

The solution was 1 layer electrical tape to mitigate the spoke issue, and then the Xtreme tape on top. If I'd had the old rim tape that would have worked too as a base layer, but I threw it out years ago.

I have no idea if this solution will be long lasting yet, but it was super easy to setup. The xtreme tape is very tacky with the tire bead, and seals immediately. It is hard to even reposition the tire once it's mounted. I weighed one of the Xtreme tape fails, it was 12g, so this is still a pretty light solution. One wrap of electrical tape probably also sub 20g. It's not as light as kapton or powder coat mask, but it is sealing, when those wouldn't.

I admit, I'd have gone to a split 24" tube, but I didn't have any presta valve 24" tubes to split.

 

[Jayem]

I had a bad experience with my Schwalbe Racing Ralphs a few weeks ago before the Whiskey Off Road. They have a very stiff casing/bead and it also is kind of corrugated due to the kevlar bead, in other words it looks kind of "zig zag" and folds back on itself real easy. It was an absolute bear to get over the tire and then because of that shape and stiffness, it wouldn't seal against the shelfs on the rims. It would leak air out in between the zig-zags/open spaces. I eventually got it with the initial method in this thread....but I had to go to extremes and then filling it took way WAY longer with the air pressure just barely overcoming the leaks. I could have used a tube to set one side likely and shorten my frustration...but I kind of refused to do that. The air-trick with a compressor is to use two nozzles, one over the valve, and a second pointed one inserted under the bead at another location. Of course, no compressors for this thread though...

But anyway, that experience was absolutely horrible. I'm never ever buying schwalbe tires again. I will say that they are pretty tough for the weight and the number of sharp rocks I encountered...but I have to think the more flexible and gummy (at the bead) Maxxis tires mount so much easier due to these factors...

 

[jannmayer]

I'm sure this is a "well, duh!" suggestion for most here, but make sure your tape is nice and smooth. Wrinkles can make it hard for the bead to slide in place, and they make various for the air to escape. The pair needs to be stretched tight to get out to confirm to the rim.

I haven't needed to follow the bead seating procedure from the video, but it does help to get one side nearly seated. On my last tire I was able to do that by sliding a tire lever under it. The one before that I could do by pulling the tire over to one side. I went all the way around in both cases.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Mine isn't about seating tires, but about applying tape.

I'm one of the people that tape from sidewall to sidewall, so the tire beads sit on the tubeless tape and sealant never touches the rim. I know there are perverted people out there that just tape over the spoke holes but let's not talk about them.

Most of the instructions tell you to stretch the tape when you put it on, so that it sinks down. Into the center of the rim. It's true that it has to sink into the center of the rim in order for the tire to go on right. So this makes sense at first.

The problem is that most tubeless tape isn't super stretchy, and if you stretch the tape enough to make the center sink in, it ends up stretched quite a lot where it goes over the bead shelfs. That means it's under tension and just waiting to slip down if you bump it with tire levers, etc. Plus, if you get any nick in it, it instantly pops because it's under so much tension.

Instead of stretching the tape hard when I put it on, I put it on one bead shelf first, with only minimal tension. I try not to stick it to the other bead shelf at all. Once the tape is wrapped around one bead shelf, I stick it down real good to that bead shelf with my fingers. Then I use my fingers to work around the rim and push the tape sideways down into the center of the rim all the way around. It will be a little wrinkly because the center of the rim is smaller diameter than the bead shelf, but that's the point. Finally, I stick it down to the other bead shelf firmly. The end result is that both bead shelves are evenly taped with no excessive tension. The center of the rim will actually be wrinkly and under no tension at all, which doesn't look as pretty if you care about what the inside of your tires looks like, but it gets pushed down just fine by air pressure or the tire.

Basically all the instructions to stretch the tape super hard when putting it on are compromising the bead shelfs which I don't agree with. I prefer to tape the bead shelves with a natural amount of tension and compromise the tension in the center which doesn't matter as much.

 

[jannmayer]

Mine isn't about seating tires, but about applying tape.

I'm one of the people that tape from sidewall to sidewall, so the tire beads sit on the tubeless tape and sealant never touches the rim. I know there are perverted people out there that just tape over the spoke holes but let's not talk about them.

Most of the instructions tell you to stretch the tape when you put it on, so that it sinks down. Into the center of the rim. It's true that it has to sink into the center of the rim in order for the tire to go on right. So this makes sense at first.

The problem is that most tubeless tape isn't super stretchy, and if you stretch the tape enough to make the center sink in, it ends up stretched quite a lot where it goes over the bead shelfs. That means it's under tension and just waiting to slip down if you bump it with tire levers, etc. Plus, if you get any nick in it, it instantly pops because it's under so much tension.

Instead of stretching the tape hard when I put it on, I put it on one bead shelf first, with only minimal tension. I try not to stick it to the other bead shelf at all. Once the tape is wrapped around one bead shelf, I stick it down real good to that bead shelf with my fingers. Then I use my fingers to work around the rim and push the tape sideways down into the center of the rim all the way around. It will be a little wrinkly because the center of the rim is smaller diameter than the bead shelf, but that's the point. Finally, I stick it down to the other bead shelf firmly. The end result is that both bead shelves are evenly taped with no excessive tension. The center of the rim will actually be wrinkly and under no tension at all, which doesn't look as pretty if you care about what the inside of your tires looks like, but it gets pushed down just fine by air pressure or the tire.

Basically all the instructions to stretch the tape super hard when putting it on are compromising the bead shelfs which I don't agree with. I prefer to tape the bead shelves with a natural amount of tension and compromise the tension in the center which doesn't matter as much.

I used a similar approach at first. However the wrinkles in the center can sometimes prevent the tire from seating easily. When the beads are pushed into the center, the wrinkles make gaps that let the air escape. My current tires wouldn't seat with wrinkly tape but they stayed fine with a smoother tape job.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

I used a similar approach at first. However the wrinkles in the center can sometimes prevent the tire from seating easily. When the beads are pushed into the center, the wrinkles make gaps that let the air escape. My current tires wouldn't seat with wrinkly tape but they stayed fine with a smoother tape job.

Good point. I guess it works for me because I rarely change tires and use a compressor. I guess what the world needs is stretchier tubeless tape.

 

[Jayem]

Yeah, I've found stretching it over the valve hole results in bad seals, since it's trying to lift up when you tension the tape. I've also come to the conclusion that less tension and full contact side to side is generally best.

 

[Bikedog22]

I don't know how I missed this thread. I have an older bike with Mavic 819 UST rims which don't use tape and the Mavic UST tire won't seat. I counted to 10 and walked away and rode a different bike.

 

[edubfromktown]

For occasional stubborn inflation ops (more often on a used tire that sat on the shelf a while), placing the rim on the ground so the lower bead has gravity helping a bit is effective.

Also press on either side of the tire as my Bonty dual chamber pump blasts air increases odds of success.

 

[OldN00b]

Surprised no one has mentioned the pressurized garden sprayer hack. I bought an Airshot but returned it because I had an extra sprayer laying around. Plenty of videos on YouTube to get you started.

 

[Jayem]

Surprised no one has mentioned the pressurized garden sprayer hack. I bought an Airshot but returned it because I had an extra sprayer laying around. Plenty of videos on YouTube to get you started.

Because that's an air compressor and this is a no-air-compressor thread.

 

[OldN00b]

Because that's an air compressor and this is a no-air-compressor thread.

I guess technically yes but when you say “compressor,” I’m sure most will think of a device that requires power to use.

In addition, why place artificial barriers in your way? This can’t be about doing it trailside, because then co2 would be the most obvious/effective answer. The garden sprayer hack can be yours for $25 bucks and be tossed into the car and left at the trailhead. In addition, you can purchase a second hose and use it as a shower after a muddy or dirty ride.

 

[Jayem]

I guess technically yes but when you say “compressor,” I’m sure most will think of a device that requires power to use.

In addition, why place artificial barriers in your way? This can’t be about doing it trailside, because then co2 would be the most obvious/effective answer. The garden sprayer hack can be yours for $25 bucks and be tossed into the car and left at the trailhead. In addition, you can purchase a second hose and use it as a shower after a muddy or dirty ride.

Nope, this is about doing it trailside and anywhere else that you don't have a compressor. Please see the first post.

Some context, a friend at work was having trouble seating WITH his compressor a few weeks ago. I told him about the method on the first post...he said it went on the first time in like 10 seconds after that. He came back to thank me a few days later, absolutely mind-blown and couldn't believe it was so simple/easy. But the point here is for situations where you don't have a compressor, like in the hotel on vacation, trailside, etc. If you think this is impossible, please see the first post.

Point is, you shouldn't need a compressor to own a mountain bike. Some people don't have one due to many different reasons, as well as in many different situations you just don't have access to one...If you are basing on previous experience with tubeless and always going to a compressor, you might think there is no other way. There is a way.