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Pivot Switchblade

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#2,062 ·
titusquasi said:
Easy fellas, I'm just curious given the success on the Hightower and Primer. No harm intended. Like I said, I understand all the ramifications of modifying a bike outside its intended design.

Like the majority of MTBR users I like to tinker with bikes and curiosity is fun to indulge. I was thinking along the lines of using two offset bushings on the shock to "lengthen" the shock by about 1/8". This would only work if the shock yoke had more then enough clearance at the seat tube. Then use the 1/4" longer stroke shock and at bottom out the shock only ends up about 1/8" "shorter" than stock. This will only work if there is enough tire/ linkage clearance etc... With this plus a 160mm fork you could end up with near stock geo with a higher bottom bracket. By using the offset bushings to "lengthen" the shock and then factoring in the extra bit of sag you would get by going 30% sag on a 2.25" shock vs. 2.0", you should end up near the same spot in the suspension curve and the effect on kinematics might be minimal.

I do find it amusing that most forum users think it's OK to lengthen the fork by adding 10-20mm of travel over the manufacturer's spec (thus running the bike outside it's intended design), but when trying to discuss the rear travel...the big guns come out.

Some good points were thrown out and thanks for the constructive discussion. That video is pretty neat as well and very helpful.
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I agree. Why all the judgement? Like everyone knows best. Just a heads up - I don't think you can use an offset bushing on the rear since there is no bushing.
 
#2,068 ·
oKayH said:
Trying to make sense of the chainline and ring type.

I want an AbsoluteBlack 32T oval for my stock aeffect cranks. Do I need the boost or non-boost version? Do I mount it normal or flip it?
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If your Aeffect crank has 5mm spindle spacers on each side, you'll need the Boost chainring to get the ~57mm chainline. If you get the standard cinch chainring, you still can mount it by moving both spacers to the drive side (and pedalling funny :p )

If it's a standard Aeffect crank with no spacers, you'll need a flipped standard chainring. I will be doing this with my SB with an aftermarket 170mm Aeffect crank.
 
#2,071 ·
I have the same AB chainring in boost for my SB as well. When I took it to the bike shop and asked them to install it replacing the one pictured in the post I linked above, they recommended that I keep the non-boost one on the bike. This same shop works on Ken's bike too; so, I trust them. I'm not saying Ken is incorrect, I'm sure both boost and non-boost work fine, which I think another member said above as well.
 
#2,075 ·
As far as I'm aware Pivot still don't offer a frame only but they do list the price of the frame separately to the builds. For instance I was quoted ÂŁ3100 for the frame with a DPS shock, ÂŁ335 for the X2 upgrade and ÂŁ5500 for the XX1 Team 29 build kit with Reynolds wheels. All RRP.

(Incidentally the additional 27.5 Plus wheel set is an additional ÂŁ2200.)

You can't buy one without the other although I'm sure most shops would sort a build deal out if you weren't happy with the standard kit.
 
#2,076 ·
As long as the ring clears the chain stay you're good to go! That's the main concern with swapping out to larger rings or ones with varying offset.We recommend the Boost rings for clearance and optimized chain line.
ryknown said:
I have the same AB chainring in boost for my SB as well. When I took it to the bike shop and asked them to install it replacing the one pictured in the post I linked above, they recommended that I keep the non-boost one on the bike. This same shop works on Ken's bike too; so, I trust them. I'm not saying Ken is incorrect, I'm sure both boost and non-boost work fine, which I think another member said above as well.
Click to expand...
 
#2,078 · (Edited)
Fellow SB owners I just tuned my fork and rear shock with the RS ShockWiz,trust me and beg borrow or steal to get your fork and shock working to optimum performance with this tool.I have Fox 36 160mm RC2 with Fox X2 rear. Real deal technology!

Ask your LBS if they offer a rental,in my area several shops offer this for 25.00 per day rental. I tuned my fork and shock within a two hour ride.Super easy to use with App.A sweet attribute is that your within two clicks up or down on adjustments for optimum performance in any condition or type of ride terrain.
 
#2,080 ·
I'm looking for a bike on the slacker side of things so would probably run the 29er with 17mm cup or even go to 160mm fork but after a test ride of both the 29er and + I had a nagging feeling that the front end felt a little 'under' or steep. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. I thought it might be the stem length but then I read Seb Stott's Bike Radar review where he wrote this: "also felt the 67.25-degree head angle could be slacker. While it sounds fairly slack, the mismatched travel results in a slightly steeper dynamic head angle when sagged. To compensate, we upped fork pressure to prop it up for steep terrain. This made it a touch harder than we’d normally run. We’d have liked to increase sag in the rear to slacken it out for steep descents, but this would exacerbate the slack seat angle on the climbs." Can some of you kind folk please elaborate on what he's talking about here?
 
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