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OT: What road bike is everyone riding (Roadie Content)

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25K views 92 replies 71 participants last post by  Debaser  
#1 ·
Hey everyone..

I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.

I would like to see what people are riding and to get some input on how they find their road bikes, and also what sort of millage they are covering on their bikes.

FWIW, I am eyeing the following contenders:
  • Bianchi XL Carbon (The frame price is good in Ausralia)
  • Giant TCR Composite 1 (Best bang for the buck frame and carbon too)
  • Avanti Corsa Elite (Good frame and great specs for good price)
  • Orbea

So post pics, comments, ride time spent on the bike and weight if you wish...

Cheers
Trevor!
 
#2 ·
Road Bikes

Trevor!

Are you trying to build a light road bike? I would say your best best is to get one built up. You will get a better deal usally.
You can get a decently light road bike for a good price. Is this for racing or just training?

Personally, I just riding a lowwr end TREK for now until I get some more cash. Basically it's just used for training and century rides. Little bu liitle I am feeting some better parts and upgrading it. Eventually I will get a better frame but nothing higher end. But it rides fine for $450. Its only has a 8-spd drivetrain and weighs for than my KLEIN but it rides fine.

It's was a stock TREK 1000. Here athe changes I have done so far using parts I had around and loking for good deals and closeouts:
  • FRM Carbon Seatpost
  • Selle San Marco Apiside saddle
  • Shimano 105 Cranks with a FSA 50T and Shimano 38T (Getting Team Carbon Pro.)
  • Shimnao 105 Brakes
  • Shimano 105/Ambrosio Excel Light with DT Supercomps (DA or FRM Team soon.)
  • FRM Ti Web Stem
  • Deda 215 44cm
  • Shimano 105 RD
  • Shimano 12-25 Ultegra Casstte
  • Vittoria Rubino Tires (Blue)
  • Reynolds Ouzo Comp Carbon Fork
  • FRM A-Headset (coming)
  • 2004 Shimano Ultegra SPD-R pedals
In the next few months I am going to get either a GIANT, FRM, KLEIN or Fetish Cycles Road frames with Carbon Rear stays or a used Litespeed or Masi form my neighbor.

I actullay love the feels and ride of my TREK. I just wish the TT was a small bit shorter.
I my best advise to you is go with what fits you best. Road bike fit IMO is more impotant than a MTB.

I am putting between 25-65 miles 3-4x a week. No problems or issues with the cheap heavy frame. Since it's only a training bike for my MTB riding, at this point I don't care that much about weight. I am doing a Duathlon in 2 weeks on it. I am just adding some Vision TT bars.

Good luck in your Road Bike quest. It's made me a better MTB rider.
No more slicks on the KLEIN :D
 
#3 ·
I'll admit it...

I purchased my first road bike back in September and I will admit that it has made me faster on my mountain bike and given me more endurance. I wasn't sure that I would like the road bike that much, but there are some really scenic (and difficult) rides in Arizona that can be done year round.

Anyway, if this is your first road bike my suggestion to you is to start with something "moderate" - there is a chance you will not like the sport and it would be a shame for a $4000 bike to hang in your garage. I set up my budget to be $1000US and, after a lot of shopping, settled in on a 2003 Fuji Team. These are very light bikes (16.7 pounds for the 56cm size) and have a nice component spec. The frame is aluminum but the bike rides in a very compliant manner (much of ride quality has to do with your wheelset and not the frame). The picture of my bike is attached.

If you are a lighter rider, then the Fuji Team Super Lite (the bike above mine) is REALLY light - 15 pounds on the nose. There aren't many factory bikes that light, regardless of price. And I believe one of those can be had for <$2000US.

In the 4 months that I have had the bike I have ridden it about 1200 miles. Just yesterday I completed my second century on the bike (100.8mi) on a very scenic and hilly route. In fact, one of the hills that I had to climb was 4.5 miles in my lowest gear -- now that's a grind! And it will definitely help my climbing ability on the MTB.

Lastly, I highly recommend you find some others to ride your bike with. Road biking is all about form and strength. Form is best found when riding with others as they can give you pointers as you ride (vs. a shop attendant who can just blab about how good they are). And being a fast MTB'er doesn't always transfer into being a fast road bike rider, so hooking up with a group of FAST roadies will surely help you get faster and stronger.

Good luck.

Thx...Doug
 

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#4 · (Edited)
22Lb. MASI .....sled

see below
I train on my 22lb road bike for MTB XC Racing - (just like most of us) so my theory is - (I'd never thought I'd hear myself saying this) Keep it heavy! I may do a few road races a year...but not enough to concern myself with weight....this way you don't get the "weight shock" of going from a 16lb road bike to a 22lb mountain bike...it's seamless. The MASI was 500 US dude and a really great frame - even if it is made by Haro or something...it could be a 16lb bike easily but it's Tiagra stocked...so yea...but I love it.

Image
 
#5 ·
Hey thanks Dirt-Boy for all the information.

I think I will buy a stock bike as they are already light and well priced. Just toying with the frame idea. I will have no intention of making it light as it will be well lighter then my Ellsworth.

The bike will be used for training and racing each weekend. I have a top coach that will be taking me under her wing, and I believe I am up for 15-20hrs of training a week, so figure a decent road bike is a must for me.

Trevor!
 
#6 ·
many good comments so far

I ride one of the bikes you listed: Orbea Lobular Carbon with Campy 10 sp Record/Chorus mix (170/39-53/12-25), ITM bar/stem, Zeus carbon post/fork, black Mavic Cosmos, Wipperman chain, Time Impact Mag pedals (might change to Speedplay Zero but I'm happy with my Equipe Pro CX shoes but have some new Carnacs in the wings).

I came off a Calfee Tetra Pro and Luna Pro with Dura-Ace.

I ride with a regional road team and though I think of mtb racing as my first passion, I truly do it all because I race motocross. Some of the longer racers (motorcycle) are upwards of 2 to 4 hours, and all the top guys train on bicycles.

Anyway, someone listed the Fuji Team as an option. That is a great bike for the money. And the Giant carbon was at the top of my list too. I'm not a bike snob and believe those Taiwan frames are a good platform if they fit the budget and rider's style (in terms of geometry). You will want comfort, and while the Giant Carbon fits it I think the Fuji is a bit more harsh, but when it comes down to it, tires/seat/fork/post/gloves/chamois make more of a diff than frame material.

Here is a pic of my bike at the 2003 San Francisco GP sponsored by T-Mobile.
http://www.whileseated.org/photo/000721.shtml (Velomax in the pic with a 29 cog).
 
#7 ·
I love the TCR Composite

I have a TCR composite under 14.5 lbs, and I still have a few Ultegra parts on it. Mine is up on Light-Bikes if you want to take a look, but I have skinnied it down since then.

As for the bike, I am very happy with it. I got it as a frame/fork combo. The frame has a great combination of comfort, liveliness and stability. It does not have the totally snappy feel of an lively aluminum, but it is veeeery close. In exchange for that, it absorbs waaay more bumps than an aluminum frame. I wish I could compare it with the Calnogos and Looks out there, but I never realistically considered them due to cost. For the price it is hard to beat if you are looking for a world class light weight carbon fiber frame.
 
#8 ·
Currently I'm riding an older lugger Bianchi that need a new headset and some minor adjustments in the shifting, but it is a solid bike tipping the scales at 21# for a 61cm frame and middle of the road campy components. Agreed 100% plus some that fit on any road bike is more important than mountian due to all the sizes avaliable.

Friend of mine had two Giant TCRs and liked the stiff ride of the alloy frame, but the first frame lasted only two months and the second a bit more than a month and a half before the head tube seperated. Giant dealer and Giant rep. would not take care of the busted up frames and would not consider buying one myself after that.

Best bet is to ride as many different bikes as possible before laying out the cash, is its to cold or the roads are nasty and the dealer won't let you test ride right now bring in some rollers with you and do a quick 5-10 miles on each to see which fits you best.
 
#9 ·
dgangi said:
I purchased my first road bike back in September and I will admit that it has made me faster on my mountain bike and given me more endurance. I wasn't sure that I would like the road bike that much, but there are some really scenic (and difficult) rides in Arizona that can be done year round.

Anyway, if this is your first road bike my suggestion to you is to start with something "moderate" - there is a chance you will not like the sport and it would be a shame for a $4000 bike to hang in your garage. I set up my budget to be $1000US and, after a lot of shopping, settled in on a 2003 Fuji Team. These are very light bikes (16.7 pounds for the 56cm size) and have a nice component spec. The frame is aluminum but the bike rides in a very compliant manner (much of ride quality has to do with your wheelset and not the frame). The picture of my bike is attached.

If you are a lighter rider, then the Fuji Team Super Lite (the bike above mine) is REALLY light - 15 pounds on the nose. There aren't many factory bikes that light, regardless of price. And I believe one of those can be had for <$2000US.

In the 4 months that I have had the bike I have ridden it about 1200 miles. Just yesterday I completed my second century on the bike (100.8mi) on a very scenic and hilly route. In fact, one of the hills that I had to climb was 4.5 miles in my lowest gear -- now that's a grind! And it will definitely help my climbing ability on the MTB.

Lastly, I highly recommend you find some others to ride your bike with. Road biking is all about form and strength. Form is best found when riding with others as they can give you pointers as you ride (vs. a shop attendant who can just blab about how good they are). And being a fast MTB'er doesn't always transfer into being a fast road bike rider, so hooking up with a group of FAST roadies will surely help you get faster and stronger.

Good luck.

Thx...Doug
Thanks for all the information.

I won't spend $4000 because its not possible I don't think. The giant looks attractive but I don't like the limited sizing and I see on the large frame they spec a 175mm crank rather then the traditional 172.5 (Or whatever it is).

I'll take a look at Fugi but have never heard of them and doubt there is a local dealer here.

I already have some roadie groups to ride with. One is a very aggressive, competitive and fast group and the other a group of similar riders who are happy to take it easy or if the mood takes them fast an furious. I also have some training partners I ride with. I also ride with very accomplised road riders and MTB riders (one of which is UCI ranked 16 in the world).

I doubt I'll ever not like the sport. I seem that obsessed these days that I'll do anything on a bike, and that includes several TTs I have done on a MTB and ended in the Top 20 riders (Out of a field of around 60-80 roadies)

Trevor!

FWIW, A picture of the avanti:

Image
 
#10 ·
Nice looking ride Trevor.
It seems that Avcanti have not made it out of Australia and New Zealand yet. I have had a look at a few of their bikes over time and they always look pretty good and are never overshadowed by their better known opostion. I was just looking at their Manik DJ bike for one of the members of my "club" in comparison to the NORCO Manic and it was very similar but actually had some components that were higher specced.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I have a ~2000 Giant TCR Team (quite nice and light, too) with Ultegra that I now refuse to ride for typical road racing, the Large 1250g frame seems to eat up all my forwards effords. I've been looking at converting it to TT for years, no actions taken yet.
I got a 4130 steel Surly pacer on which I put a Singleator chain tensioner and 52-20/16 Flip-Flop gear, for crits and commuting. It feel much more efficient than the Giant, and I love the ride. Due to a lack of any measurable elevations over here, my commuter/crit bike weight doesn't matter to me much. I like the Rivendell 28c tires on it.
 
#12 ·
20 lbsd curtlo

Trevor! said:
Hey everyone..

I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.

I would like to see what people are riding and to get some input on how they find their road bikes, and also what sort of millage they are covering on their bikes.

FWIW, I am eyeing the following contenders:
  • Bianchi XL Carbon (The frame price is good in Ausralia)
  • Giant TCR Composite 1 (Best bang for the buck frame and carbon too)
  • Avanti Corsa Elite (Good frame and great specs for good price)
  • Orbea

So post pics, comments, ride time spent on the bike and weight if you wish...

Cheers
Trevor!
a 03' Curtlo using Xo true temper plat tubing. 105 gruppo with OP CK wheels.
 
#14 ·
right now I have a Gunnar Roadie built up with Open Pro wheels, and full Ultegra. I never weighed it but I'm guessing it's somewhere right around 19-20lbs (probably 20). It certainly isn't superlight but the rid eis fantastic. I used to have a Bottechia Columbus SLX road bike and this 853 feels very similar. You can get lots of opinions on frame choice but personally, I like steel above all else on the road.

You can probably find a slightly used or NOS steel frame/bike for reasonably cheap and that would probably give you the most bike for your money.

Good luck to ya. It is great for training but having been away from the road scene (and kinda forgetting what it's like) and now coming back, it doesn't hold a candle to riding off road. Just my two cents but dirt rules!
 
#15 ·
Crackendale

Here is my Cannondale- Full Ultegra (minus the brakes) comes in a little over 20 lbs with computer/cages etc (1lb heavier than the MCM). It defintely gets the job done and you can't beat Cannondale for frame stiffness. Luckily, I'm still fairly young and the long rides don't wear on me like you hear aluminum frames usually do. I rode my first century ever on her last Labor day in 5:28 and really enjoy the roadie thing sometimes.
XC
 

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#16 · (Edited)
Scott all the way...you guessed it!

yes - most will say i'm "a bit" biased but once again german roadie magazine TOUR did a test on 20 different high-end carbon roadbikes and the overall winner is....SCOTT CR1 Pro!

now remember - this not the top of the line CR1 Team Issue but the 2nd highest in the lineup.as a complete bike it's official price is 2950 Euro but check with Tilo from tilosshop.com about best deals on the Scott.

here's the bikes that they tested:
Basso Diamante
Calfee Dragonfly Pro
CKT COR 15
Corratec Carbon Flight
Daccordi Race Fiber
Eddy Merckx Carbon MXM
Frank Roccolana
Kestrel Talon SL
Look KG 461
Moser MX Karbon
Orbea Orca
Red Bull Pro Carbon
Ridley Damocles
Scott CR1 Pro
Simplon Pride DA20
Specialized Roubaix pro
Storck Scenario C1.1
Time VXR
Trek Madone 5.9
Wilier Karbon 2 Deluxe

here's a graph that shows the overall points (in the grey dot), price in Euro (yellow) and weight of the frameset incl. fork in grams (red).
criterias that were noted:
weight of frame/fork
stability
lateral stiffness
power transfer
comfort
finish/laquer/service

Image


the whole test is about 10 pages long so don't aske me to print every bike.let me just note a few comments:
Eddy Merckx: weakest stiffnest in the headtube of all tested bikes (48 N/mm against 83 N/mm of the Scott and Basso).unacceptable! the handlebar shakes when going down...

Kestrel: also pretty soft in the headtube (61 N/mm) only acceptable in the bottom brackett stiffness (91 N/mm against Frank 123 N/mm or Scott 106 N/mm)

Simplon: austrian bike.lightest frameset (1269g incl. fork in size 57cm against 1392g of the Scott).it gets good notes all over!

Specialized: NO effect of those fancy dampening inserts!! who wonders? - once again some marketing BS just like all that Bodygeometry hype.it rides decent as are his stiffness measurements.

Trek: rides great.expensive.good quality but no lightweight at 1542g and the measurements are also decent at best: 88 N/mm in the bottom bracket and 66 N/mm in the headtube.

Scott: the little brother of the CR1 Team issue has excellent stiffness numbers paired to a record weight.the price of the complete bike is even lower than some other framesets in this test!it rides great...
the Team issue has different carbon fibres,is over 100g lighter and you can get it with a 270g superlight fork.all with even better stiffness numbers - no comment!price? no comment either - ouch! the frameset is 2300 Euro...

here's the Scott CR1 Pro out of the dealers catalogue.complete weight is 7.6 kilos.
Image

and the CR1 Team issue:
Image


I can only rave about this years Team Issue which had a scandium frame (980g in size M) and also got highest numbers in last years tests.it rides awesome.I always though on roadbikes the difference woouldn't be that big from one to another frame...man i was sooo wrong!

I can't wait for my new CR1 Team Issue frameset...
Image
 
#17 ·
Trevor! said:
Hey everyone..

I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. !
Here's a pic of one of my road bikes: 2003 Bianchi Pista...what a blast! I've modified the frame to include 2 water-bottle mounts and a rear brake.

Image


Oh, and here's my other road bike, but it has gears (yuck!): Seven Ti Axiom with 9-spd Campy Record.

Image
 
#19 ·
Got me a road bike and a beater cross bike/trainer bike.

My Roadie:

Seven Odonata with Seven's custom Wound Up CF fork.
Seven custom Ti Stem (sigh- single bolt one though- no CF bars for me)
Campy Record 10 (STI's, deraillers, brakes, CF seatpost, Hubs)
3T Prima 199 bars
Eggbeater Twin Ti pedals
Terry Fly Ti saddle (meh)

Out of the bikes you listed, the Orbea's are the nicest. The Starship/Carbon models look really nice.
 
#20 ·
Well I ride a Klein road bike, weight is about 20 pounds, fast bike, slow rider.

All the bikes you listed are nice, but I would suggest that you also consider:

1) Colorado Cyclists Douglas Titanium,

2) Lemond Steel or Titanium Bikes,

3) Other large manufactures.


Like Mountain bikes, the best value is in a prebuilt bike. I tend to like Titanium over Carbon fiber because it is harder to damage and can be repaired if damaged. Even more important than with mountain bikes is fit on a road bike. Unlike the mountain bike, you will be in the saddle 90% of the time on the road bike. One common problem I seen with many new road bikes is to much drop from the Seat to the stem, realistically, you should have 0-3 inches, and most likely 1-2 inches.

Ride a few bikes and see what you think, you will know the right one when you get on it. I agree with the above posters that I would not drop $4000 on your first road bike, anything with 105 components will be plenty durable.
 
#21 ·
Not much to add to the above.....just whatever you get go Campy :) Also, note that crazy light frames (1kg or less) often share common features such as, flexy and fatigue with-in a few years, very thin tube walls (dent easily or get holes knocked in them if made out of carbon), or are extremely bone jarring stiff in order not to fold under the light build.
 
#22 ·
I have a Look Kx carbon bike. Its one of their stiffest frames which makes it quite durable for training and is still light enough to race. I currently have it with 9 speed Dura Ace drive train and Ksyrium SL wheels. The whole bike weighs in at just a bit over 17lbs. I currently use it for conditioning only but am hoping to get to do a few road races as well this year.
 

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#24 ·
what about de rosas??????

nino said:
yes - most will say i'm "a bit" biased but once again german roadie magazine TOUR did a test on 20 different high-end carbon roadbikes and the overall winner is....SCOTT CR1 Pro!

now remember - this not the top of the line CR1 Team Issue but the 2nd highest in the lineup.as a complete bike it's official price is 2950 Euro but check with Tilo from tilosshop.com about best deals on the Scott.

here's the bikes that they tested:
Basso Diamante
Calfee Dragonfly Pro
CKT COR 15
Corratec Carbon Flight
Daccordi Race Fiber
Eddy Merckx Carbon MXM
Frank Roccolana
Kestrel Talon SL
Look KG 461
Moser MX Karbon
Orbea Orca
Red Bull Pro Carbon
Ridley Damocles
Scott CR1 Pro
Simplon Pride DA20
Specialized Roubaix pro
Storck Scenario C1.1
Time VXR
Trek Madone 5.9
Wilier Karbon 2 Deluxe

here's a graph that shows the overall points (in the grey dot), price in Euro (yellow) and weight of the frameset incl. fork in grams (red).
criterias that were noted:
weight of frame/fork
stability
lateral stiffness
power transfer
comfort
finish/laquer/service

Image


the whole test is about 10 pages long so don't aske me to print every bike.let me just note a few comments:
Eddy Merckx: weakest stiffnest in the headtube of all tested bikes (48 N/mm against 83 N/mm of the Scott and Basso).unacceptable! the handlebar shakes when going down...

Kestrel: also pretty soft in the headtube (61 N/mm) only acceptable in the bottom brackett stiffness (91 N/mm against Frank 123 N/mm or Scott 106 N/mm)

Simplon: austrian bike.lightest frameset (1269g incl. fork in size 57cm against 1392g of the Scott).it gets good notes all over!

Specialized: NO effect of those fancy dampening inserts!! who wonders? - once again some marketing BS just like all that Bodygeometry hype.it rides decent as are his stiffness measurements.

Trek: rides great.expensive.good quality but no lightweight at 1542g and the measurements are also decent at best: 88 N/mm in the bottom bracket and 66 N/mm in the headtube.

Scott: the little brother of the CR1 Team issue has excellent stiffness numbers paired to a record weight.the price of the complete bike is even lower than some other framesets in this test!it rides great...
the Team issue has different carbon fibres,is over 100g lighter and you can get it with a 270g superlight fork.all with even better stiffness numbers - no comment!price? no comment either - ouch! the frameset is 2300 Euro...

here's the Scott CR1 Pro out of the dealers catalogue.complete weight is 7.6 kilos.
Image

and the CR1 Team issue:
Image


I can only rave about this years Team Issue which had a scandium frame (980g in size M) and also got highest numbers in last years tests.it rides awesome.I always though on roadbikes the difference woouldn't be that big from one to another frame...man i was sooo wrong!

I can't wait for my new CR1 Team Issue frameset...
Image
Hi Nino,
I have never seen any kind of test posted by you or anybody else about De Rosa frames. Have you ANY info regarding how they would stack up against the competition? I would imagine the Eddie Merckx would be closest as they used to be partners WAY back, but would love to see any kind of info on the Merak, Dual or King made by De Rosa. I have a special bond with that brand I guess because I used to race as a junior many many years ago on one and wished I had kept it.

Thanks in advance,
thejuru
 
#26 ·
my fixie....

15.5 pounds of fixie love. 2000 giant tcr team frame, no name alu steer tube fork.
i've ridden my geared roady once since i got this together. the other is an 18.5# steel interloc frame/fork with dura ace-ultegra mix, hugi-240 hubs, use carbon post, ti stem, and lots of ti/alu bolts and so on. pics of it later.

Image


no name carbon post with alu clamp bolt; hope seat collar with alu bolt. no name cages and tires from performance. lunar light tubes. now has a ti cycles ti stem, and serotta ti headtube extender, and a real nitto moustache bar. no new pic yet, though.

Image


campy record carbon headset, campy front wheel off e-bay. campy mirage single pivot caliper, with ti/alu bolts. modolo lever, jagwire carbon look housing. generic bartape. generic pedals.

Image


white ind. eno eccentric rear hub. velocity aerohead rim, 15-16db spokes/alloy nipples, 32 holes. 18T surly fixed cog and lockring. the two large hub fixing bolts, and the two inner bolts of the hub are now ti.

Image


ritchey road crank, with generic 46t ring. srp alu ring and crank bolts. action-tec ti bb.

it's light, it's fast. frame soon to be replaced with a 2003 bianchi eros steel frame picked up off of e-bay. should add about a pound, maybe a bit more. but i'd rather have the steel ride!
 

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