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official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread

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#721 ·
Suppose what am worried about is if oil gets contaminated will it still provide sufficient lubrication? There are some faint marks on the stantion, not sure how long they have been there or whether that is just normal wear and tear for a 2015 fork as have no experience of servicing them myself. Certainly no mention on the servicing report of any signs of wear from a while ago?
 
#722 ·
Anyone know where to buy the heat shrink for the air spring? Apparently I need 1.5" 1:2 ratio oil resistant but can't find it anywhere.

Also, looking at replacing my seals - how easy is it to do yourself? Or am I best I get the shop to do it?
 
#728 ·
I have a strange issue with my Trace rl2.
So if I remove all air then add it with fork upside down, all is good for a few rides.

Then if I use the lockout and travel adjust I start getting a ‘clunk’ when the fork extends completely, as if it had no air in negative chamber.

It’s not just noise, I can feel the clunk while riding.

Any ideas?
 
#729 ·
I am looking for a bit more small bump compliance from my Slide RL2, so I am not sure if I should change the order of the ring shim or go with thinner shims. I am completely new to the shim tune thing, so any direction would be very helpful. BTW, I went to the hardware store and purchased an acorn nut for 45 cents, it covers the end of the rebound shaft so I can smack it with a mallet to loosen the foot nut.

Here is the shim stack on the Slide RL
18x0.2
18x0.15 (2)
18x0.3 + 16x0.15 (ring and centering shim)
18x0.15 (1)
12x0.15 (2)
 
#730 ·
#731 ·
bradshawbs said:
I have a Slide with an unflanged footnut over a bonded washer. The threads are M10x1.25/fine.

Which if any of the tools will work?

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=83753
Click to expand...
It should be the RL2 tool. Since you know the thread pitch, run to a hardware store and get an acorn nut. So all you have to do is get a 13mm socket to remove the footnut, thread that acorn nut three to four turns. It is deep enough to where it will not damage the protruding rebound rod when you go to smack it with a soft mallet. It will work on both sides, both nuts are 13mm.
 

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#732 ·
Crankyanken said:
It should be the RL2 tool. Since you know the thread pitch, run to a hardware store and get an acorn nut. So all you have to do is get a 13mm socket to remove the footnut, thread that acorn nut three to four turns. It is deep enough to where it will not damage the protruding rebound rod when you go to smack it with a soft mallet. It will work on both sides, both nuts are 13mm.
Click to expand...
Mad Suspension got back to me and it's the C-Style tool with the M10x1.25 threads.

I like the idea of the acorn nut, but can't find any with the correct thread and size. 17 or 18 mm wrench size is what I find for M10x1.25 nuts which doesn't fit in the foot-nut space.

I need to make a correction. You could hand tighten a 17mm nut. I think an 13mm socket is 18mm in diameter which does fit in the recess. Still the only acorn nuts I am finding are M10x1.5.

My understanding is the removal tool also helps to pull the damper shaft back into place when reassembling the fork.
 
#733 ·
I just picked up a new old stock enix fork for my sons bike. I'm thinking of removing the valve shims completely as my son only weighs about 75-80 pounds. Any suggestions on removing or rearranging the shim stack are appreciated. I work in a machine shop so I'm also considering doing some lockout lever mods to make a "platform" setting
 
#735 ·
I bought the HLR damper, is the low-speed compression knob supposed to have positive stops at the end of its rotation? The rebound and high-speed knobs both stop once they hit the end range of their adjustment. The low-speed knob just spins endlessly. I've actually had the damper for over a year now, but it has done this since the day I bought it. It has always bothered me, but I thought that maybe it was the intended behavior?
 
#736 ·
beecee336 said:
I just picked up a new old stock enix fork for my sons bike. I'm thinking of removing the valve shims completely as my son only weighs about 75-80 pounds. Any suggestions on removing or rearranging the shim stack are appreciated. I work in a machine shop so I'm also considering doing some lockout lever mods to make a "platform" setting
Click to expand...
I picked up a couple of these (RL2 with black stanchions) and they've been pretty good, I did pull them apart to make sure they had oil when new and they did. I did notice the rl tool didn't fit and it wasn't exactly like my old velvet. I had to use the foot nuts. Have you had a chance to pull the air spring to see if it had the ability to adjust travel?
 
#737 ·
Shim Stack and travel mods.

Hi

I've had my Sweep RL2s apart for a full service and decided to have a go at the shim mods well documented on this thread. 2 things:

1. While I was doing the air spring side I found a random little O-Ring (9mm OD/ 6mm ID) that had become wedged in the smaller coils of the negative spring! In the past I've had this all apart to change travel, eventually settling on 150mm by using the 160mm pin position and adding a spare rockshox travel spacer. To install this meant taking the allen bolt off the air shaft to slide the -ve spring.

I can't work out where this bloody O-ring should go! It seems to small to be of use. The larger rings that seal the air shaft on the other parts of -ve spring assy are all still in place. It's way too small to stretch over the the 9mm OD shaft, and I don't think it's meant to go on the allen bolt on the end andd is too big to fit internally in the end of the air shaft! I wonder if it possibly seals the end face of top of air shaft to main piston but can't see that on the drawing.

So I can only assume it's a random O-ring that should never have been there....or maybe it crept in when I was fiddling with it before. Apart from feeling a bit like needing a service, the forks were working fine with it wedged where it was!

2. Shim mods. Here are some (hopefully) clear pics to show the factory arrangment and two-one's suggested highspeed/lockout mod. Thanks to all those that have taken time to describe these mods.

Since a lot of the info is spread throughout this thread, hope it might save someone some trawling!

*I didn't do the midvalve mods because I didn't want to risk getting braking dive as has been mentioned by some.

* I had to grind down a little imperial spanner to about 3mm thick and file it out to 12mm to fit the bastard tight, thin nut that holds it all together, and grip it with Mole grips and a rubber wrap. If you want to take off the little end cup for midvalve mods, you'd take that off first, and need a 2nd pair of grips on that.
 

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#738 ·
Ramjm_2000 said:
I picked up a couple of these (RL2 with black stanchions) and they've been pretty good, I did pull them apart to make sure they had oil when new and they did. I did notice the rl tool didn't fit and it wasn't exactly like my old velvet. I had to use the foot nuts. Have you had a chance to pull the air spring to see if it had the ability to adjust travel?
Click to expand...
I havent pulled the air spring side. Just the damper side.
 
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