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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, i am starting a thread to consolidate service and tuning info from this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/x-fusion-slant-anyone-903382.html Almost everything you need to know for home service and a starting point for tuning, if you are so inclined. Should be good for all current xfusion rl2 forks. Mine is a 160 mm Sweep.

What you will need besides basic sockets/wrenches/hammer (i assune everyone has those)

park spa-2 pin spanner

28 mm socket, must be 6 point and ground flat like so for max engagement on top cap: unnamed (47).jpg

Piece of plastic pipe or long socket for reinstalling damper shaft

soft blow hammer

buzzys slick honey grease, its the best. or rock n roll super slick

torco rsf lite

torco rsf medium

Oil measuring device

New oil seals (if necessary)

new o-ring and quad-ring kit from xfusion (if necessary)

Oil bucket

Disassembly:

1. Remove fork from bike and place in stand at 45 degrees with lowers pinting up. Remove air cap and depressurize. Remove rebound knob unnamed (27).jpg

2. remove footnuts with sockets. Exposed end of damper shaft: unnamed (28).jpg

3. Use a 4 mm socket placed on the end of the rebound shaft where tehre are hex flats. carefully pound on this with a hammer to unseat the shaft from the lowers. Nice and straight so that rod doesnt bend.
unnamed (30).jpg DO NOt use the footnuts to drive out the shafts like on other forks, the nuts are too soft teh threads will strip.

4. Heres the spring shaft end. You can pound on this directly with teh hammer to disengage it. unnamed (31).jpg
then carefully pull the lowers off the uppers and drain all the oil.

5. If its time for air spring service, unthread the air spring baseplate from the left leg using the pin spanner. Then carefully pull out the air piston assembly while holding the air valve open.
unnamed (32).jpg
unnamed (34).jpg unnamed (35).jpg

6.If its time to change the damping oil or you want to revalve it; Rotate fork so upright. Remove the lockout switch with allen key. Unthread the damper side top cap and pull it up just half an inch or so until you can see the oil level. Turn fork upside down and drain the oil, while cycling teh rebound shaft to get it all out. Then carefully pull the damper up out of the leg. drain any excess oil, again while cycling teh shaft.
unnamed (36).jpg unnamed (37).jpg unnamed (38).jpg unnamed (40).jpg

My next post: Tuning and reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
rl2 service, continued

7. Pic of damper: IMG_2469.jpg
some people including myself fell that the rl2 forks are a little too firm on small/stutter bumps. Someone on the slant thread mentioned taht removing the mid-valve would alleviate that. Or rearranging its shims. To get to it:

8. See the wrench flats on this pic on teh end of the oil tube below the upper part? Using a wrench on those, unthread the oil tube from the upper part. Youll need to hold onto teh upper end with teh 28 mm socket.
unnamed (42).jpg
unnamed (43).jpg

9. Now the mid-valve is exposed. Its the cup on the lower end of the base valve with thr ing of holes. Unthread this from the valve, its tough it has no wrench flats try sticky rubebr gloves or pliers with rubber in between.
unnamed (43).jpg unnamed (44).jpg

If you look inside teh back of this cup, you can see the low/mid speed shim stack held in by an allen screw,
unnamed (45).jpg unnamed (24).jpg

the dimensions of the stock shims in the sweep are as follows, starting with the face shim closest to the piston:

10 mm x .15 mm
8 mm x .1 mm
(4) 5 mm x .2 mm

All have 3m ID.

I dunno if other rl2 forks have the same, or differing, shim stacks.

Ive run teh fork for the last few weeks with the entire piston removed. feels reaaly good, super plush almost coil-like. It is a tad divey on teh steeps. Today i put the assembly back in, but put one of the small pivot shims between the 10 and 8 mm shims to maybe increase low-speed sensitivity but still have some support a tad deeper in. I may also try switching out the face shim to one thats .1mm thick to soften it more. that is, if I can find one it seems like 3mm ID shims are not commonplace.
I wont make any recommendations as I am not experienced with shim valving, I am going off some suggestions by a helpful fellow on that other thread. If any experienced shim tuners want to chime in here, including that gentleman, feel free!

here is a pic of the high-speed shim stack, which i didnt feel the need to mess with. It also is the blow-off for when the fork is locked out
unnamed (46).jpg

At the otehr end of teh damper is the wrench flats to unscrew the rebound seal head so you can get to teh rebound piston. I diddnt take that apart beacuse wasnt necessary but it seems like if any orings or seals down tehre need replacing it seems pretty straightforward. Probly wont have to worry about that for a long time.

next post: reassembly
 

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#7 "someone on the slant thread mentioned that removing it would alleviate that". What is "it"? I will follow this thread. I to believe that my Velvet is too firm on stutter bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
10. reassemble the damper: grease (and replace if necessary) the oring that seals the oil tube to the upper part, and screw it back together. I guess try to get it as tight as it was before.

11. Grease (and replace if necessary) the large oring that seals the damper to the stanchion wall. Carefully push the damper back down into the stanchion, but not all the way yet leave some room to add oil.

12. slowly add 70 ml of torco rsf light a bit at a time, while cycling the rebound shaft up and down to suck the oil in (make sure lockout is off and rebound adjustment is full open) when full, make sure the shaft is fully extended, then thread on the top cap and tighten to 60 in pounds. Reinstall the lockout lever.
Rotate the uppers so 45 degrees and lower end points up.

13. Pour 5 cc's of rsf medium into teh air chamber. this is not in xfusions rl2 service video, however my fork had it in tehre from the factory. Also the vengeance video showed it. so i assume its supposed to go in this fork too? You can also do this at the end instead by unscrewing the top cap.

14.Grease (and replace if necessary) the quad ring on the air piston. While holding the air valve open, carefully push the air piston assembly back in. and tighten the cap with the spanner till you hear a click. unnamed (48).jpg unnamed (49).jpg

15. Clean out the lowers with a bottlebrush or thin dowel and rag. make sure the bottom-out bumpers are in tehre proper place. clean the stanchions.Pour a bit of oil on the foam rings and liberally grease the oil seals and bushings with slick honey. Slide the lowers back on the uppers halfway.

16. Pour 15 cc's of torco rsf medium into the bottom of each leg, through the shaft holes. then while holding the air valve open, completely compress the fork. Push on the shaft ends a bit to release any air pressure in the lowers. switch on the lockout.

17. Now the tricky part, reseating the damper shaft. Xfusion for some reason wont sell the special tool that threads into it to pull it back on. Its a wierd size you cant find at the hardware store. Xfusion says an "older" sram chainring nut will work to thread on and pull it through, but good luck finding one. However, i found a workaround. Find a piece of plastic pipe (or a long socket if you dont mind scratching the paint) of the right size and shape that fits around the end of the shaft without touching it and contacts the bottom of the lowers around teh shaft nice and evenly. i found this at a hardware store:
unnamed (50).jpg
Now you can pound on that with a hammer, basically driving the lowers back onto around the shaft, until enough threads show that you can pull it the rest of the way through with the foot nut. Again, remember to have the lockout switched on while doing this.

18. Reseat the spring shaft, if not enough threads show to grab with the nut pump a few psi into teh air chamber to push the shaft end through (but dont let the fork extend yet) then thread on the foot nut and tighten it to pull the shaft completely through. if the shaft spins you can hold it still with a hex key in the bottom.

19.Torque the foot nuts to 60 in pounds. Reinstall the rebound knob, reset the adjustment, pump the fork back up and youre done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
#7 "someone on the slant thread mentioned that removing it would alleviate that". What is "it"? I will follow this thread. I to believe that my Velvet is too firm on stutter bumps.
Reread that part, i edited it.
 

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#17. Per advice in the Slant thread, get a second damper nut and cut it in half. The short nut has threads all the way to the bottom, so you can use it to pull the damper out. It will botton out on the top of the nut, but enough threads will show allowing you to put the uncut nut on it. This method has worked great for me.

Ps, nice write-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool, thanks dbug! i forgot about that. Funny i called xfusion once to order a spare foot nut and they talked me out of it for some reason. i shouldve insisted. Might call again and order one.
 

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Awesome thread! Thanks for doing it. One recommendation for an edit would be to add "annotate current settings, open rebound all the way, and lockout the fork". I know you mention this in later steps but its probsbly more helpful in step 1. When I get around to it ill upload some pics of servicing the DLA version as the air valve is on the lower right leg.
 

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Dbug

Can you post a pic of the modified footnut? I'm trying to wrap my head around why a half nut works better than a full nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dbug

Can you post a pic of the modified footnut? I'm trying to wrap my head around why a half nut works better than a full nut.
Its cut in half lengthwise, not crosswise. Its because the threads dont go all the way to the end, cutting or grinding off that end down to where the threads are means it can engage the shaft thread easily even if only a small amount of teh shaft sticks out.
 

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Subscribing. This is a wonderful post and write up.

Its cut in half lengthwise, not crosswise. Its because the threads dont go all the way to the end, cutting or grinding off that end down to where the threads are means it can engage the shaft thread easily even if only a small amount of teh shaft sticks out.
Essentially removing the material between the end of the nut and where the threads start?... So the nut will immediately grab and doesn't need a certain amount of shaft/rod sticking through the lower?
 

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Its cut in half lengthwise, not crosswise. Its because the threads dont go all the way to the end, cutting or grinding off that end down to where the threads are means it can engage the shaft thread easily even if only a small amount of teh shaft sticks out.
Got it. Essentially getting rid of the dead space on the nut.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Awesome thread! Thanks for doing it. One recommendation for an edit would be to add "annotate current settings, open rebound all the way, and lockout the fork". I know you mention this in later steps but its probsbly more helpful in step 1. When I get around to it ill upload some pics of servicing the DLA version as the air valve is on the lower right leg.
there are some steps when you dont want the damper locked out, such as when unseating the shaft or compressing the fork completely before reseating the shafts. You only need to lock it when reseating the shaft.
 

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Cool thanks for the clarification. I could have sworn the XF travel redux video (as well as during my last Velvet service) had me lockout during unseating.
 

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Good thing some-one finally disassembled the RL2 damper, but actually, I'm pretty sure that the 3mm shims aren't the mid-valve, but a additional linear tune for the basevalve.

Traditionally you need to look for a midvalve on back-end of the rebound piston.
 
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Great write up I could have used this when my 2 month old Trace RL2 damper disassembled itself and Xfusion told me they dont warranty their products purchased from an online retailer
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Good thing some-one finally disassembled the RL2 damper, but actually, I'm pretty sure that the 3mm shims aren't the mid-valve, but a additional linear tune for the basevalve.

Traditionally you need to look for a midvalve on back-end of the rebound piston.
I know what a traditional mid-valve is, but in the "xfusion slant anyone" thread, it was posted by someone who does suspension service that this piston is what xfusion calls their "mid-valve", and there is not a traditional midvalve on the rebound piston. But youre right, in effect this valve is an additional tune for the basevalve.
I didnt look at my rebound piston, but from a pic someone else posted it doesnt look like theres a midvalve on tehre... but i could be wrong.

Underscores the reason i started this thread. dont get me wrong i am a big fan of xfusions products; however compared to rockshox, which has complete service instructions and detailed parts diagrams, xfusions site is sorely lacking in this department
 
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