[jton219]

This hollowed out 8mm allen on this fits the Roughcut HLR Damper HSC knob perfectly. Will work great until XF makes a real consumer tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[nashwillis]

I have a sweep I am adding oil to and have read that the damper takes Torco RSF light and other places it takes medium. What would the difference be? I have medium at home so going to add that.

Is the the correct amounts of oil to add?
Damper - 70ml RSF Torco medium
15ml fox gold each lower leg

Should I add slick honey or anything else where to increase mid support?

Thanks

 

[dwyooaj]

you must use rsf lite or equivalent weight in the damper, not the rsf medium, that will totally change the performance of the fork. put slick honey on the wipers and seals.

 

[jton219]

I talked to Mike D at XF and asked about this. He says in the damper they use Torco RFF 10 which is a reddish color. The damping fluid i removed was reddish on my Slant. It has a CST of ~ 20 at 40C.

I asked about RSF Light. He said it can be used in place of RFF 10. I asked about even lighter 2.5 w oils and he said i would lose a lot of damping support and need to turn up the rebound all the way. Did not recommend it. RSF Light is supposed to be purple. Did not see any purple oil in the Sweep or Slant dampers i have when i did service. All the oil i saw was shades of red.

I ended up putting in Motul Factory Light 5w which has a CST around 18.3.

 

[dwyooaj]

I talked to Mike D at XF and asked about this. He says in the damper they use Torco RFF 10 which is a reddish color. The damping fluid i removed was reddish on my Slant. It has a CST of ~ 20 at 40C.

I asked about RSF Light. He said it can be used in place of RFF 10. I asked about even lighter 2.5 w oils and he said i would lose a lot of damping support and need to turn up the rebound all the way. Did not recommend it. RSF Light is supposed to be purple. Did not see any purple oil in the Sweep or Slant dampers i have when i did service. All the oil i saw was shades of red.

I ended up putting in Motul Factory Light 5w which has a CST around 18.3.

Huh, they must have changed specs since I started this thread, back then they told me torco rsf lite. As long as the oil you put in has close to same viscosity they spec it should work fine. Now I have a roughcut damper in my sweep so I don't have to worry about this now

 

[Walnut79]

Travel loss on Sweep RL2

Greetings!

How much travel have you guys (bkmad, PhillipJ and chize) lost with this issue?

I've noticed my (new) Sweep RL2 doesn't get the full travel I'd expect - 132mm on the 140mm setting, even with the air spring completely depressurised. Maybe this is normal ? There is approx 144mm of stanchion showing at full extension so the travel o-ring maxes out roughly 12mm from the top.

The service agent found nothing wrong with the fork and returned as is so maybe this is normal to not get quite the full travel. I've never had this before on previous Rockshox forks I've had. Maybe the bumpstop needs compressing under heavy load to get the full quoted travel ?

I haven't tried removing the damper side cap to release any air pressure in the damper yet, as you have done.

Cheers

I realized after i posted that the space is displaced by the oil as the damper rod extends. doh!

This is what i'm thinking too. I noticed that I had a lot less oil in the lowers on one side of the fork than the other and every time i've opened up the damper to let pressure out oil leaked out. I took apart the damper and notice that the seal on the lower rod (the one that h)as the rebound adjuster on the base has as white plastic seal instead of an O-ring. The seal between that plastic ring and the wall of the damper didn't seem all that great and i suspect that oil could leak past if it was forced down too quickly, I gave it a good coating of slick honey, if that doesn't fix it i'll ask x-fusion to send me another seal and see if that helps.

 

[chize]

I would lose up to 20mm of travel over time on mine. I would start by burping any air out of the lowers and then unscrewing the damper side cap to see if any pressure escapes (no need to remove the lower legs for this step). If you do have pressure in the damper follow the steps in my post to grease up the damper shaft seals and rings as that fixed the issue for me.

 

[Walnut79]

Thank you, will do. I'll get onto orderering a 28mm socket and grind it flat. Any chance you know what number your post was Chize ?I can't seem to find it! Presumably greasing the damper shaft seals/rings involve a lower leg removal and further disassembly of the damper, (as opposed to doing it from above via the lockout topcap) ? I have some Stendec suspension grease - any idea if this would be thick enough ? Thanks

 

[chize]

Check out lunar bike tools. Lunar Bike Tools much easier than grinding a socket flat. You'll also need the foot-nut tool from xfusion if you want to pull the lowers.
The instructions are in the post you quoted, I didn't think to take pictures or anything. You pretty much just take the lower part of the damper shaft out of the leg, pull it apart and grease any seals you see. I keep an eye on this thread so feel free to ask any questions you run across.
I used suspension grease when I did it so you should be fine there, I imagine heavier grease would work as well

 

[jton219]

Check out lunar bike tools. Lunar Bike Tools much easier than grinding a socket flat. You'll also need the foot-nut tool from xfusion if you want to pull the lowers.
The instructions are in the post you quoted, I didn't think to take pictures or anything. You pretty much just take the lower part of the damper shaft out of the leg, pull it apart and grease any seals you see. I keep an eye on this thread so feel free to ask any questions you run across.
I used suspension grease when I did it so you should be fine there, I imagine heavier grease would work as well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WCM-26mm-2...28mm-Tool-Fork-Wrench-fits-FOX-FIT-CTD-top-air-cap-Magura-X-fusion/251968579948

i purchased this tool from this ebay seller. very good quality tool. Snug and tight fitting on the top cap.

 

[Walnut79]

I've just had the damper topcap off with the fork depressurised and cycled the damper rod a bit. It feels a lot stiffer than I'd expect it to be. Anyway I'm up to about 134mm travel now out of the supposed 140mm. Should the lowers be burped with a cable tie when the fork is fully compressed, or fully extended ? Presumably if done compressed, when the fork is pumped up and extends again a vacuum will be created in the lowers.

 

[jton219]

I've just had the damper topcap off with the fork depressurised and cycled the damper rod a bit. It feels a lot stiffer than I'd expect it to be. Anyway I'm up to about 134mm travel now out of the supposed 140mm. Should the lowers be burped with a cable tie when the fork is fully compressed, or fully extended ? Presumably if done compressed, when the fork is pumped up and extends again a vacuum will be created in the lowers.

Think you are hitting the white rubber bump stop or your predrilled ladder holes are slightly off. Either way, wouldn't sorry about it so much as i don't think you can really permanently fix it unless you drill a new hole or remove the bump stop. Makes sense as the bump stop will compress about 50% on a big hit which gives you that 5mm you are missing.

 

[chize]

I've just had the damper topcap off with the fork depressurised and cycled the damper rod a bit. It feels a lot stiffer than I'd expect it to be. Anyway I'm up to about 134mm travel now out of the supposed 140mm. Should the lowers be burped with a cable tie when the fork is fully compressed, or fully extended ? Presumably if done compressed, when the fork is pumped up and extends again a vacuum will be created in the lowers.

I agree with jton, that sounds about right with the bump-stop. If you didn't hear pressure hiss out of the damper as you loosened the top nut thats a good sign. if the travel is feeling sticky you may want to pull your lowers and make sure they are properly oiled and lubed up. People will disagree with this but i like to burp the lowers fully compressed, the vacuum in the lowers it creates makes it more plush off the top but will pull a unweighted fork a few mm into its travel so don't be surprised when you measure after pumping the fork up. In reality the air seeps back into the lowers and balances out after a couple rides so it doesn't really matter.

 

[Walnut79]

Thanks jton219 and chize for your replies. I think I'll just ride it for a bit now and keep an eye on it. At least I can release pressure in the topcap now if I need to. If it begins to lose again I'll do your technique Chize to grease the damper rod seals, but am trying to avoid it tbh. I have the little footnut tool and have already had them apart when I moved the travel pin but I'm a little daunted by fidlding with the damper side..I tried to lookup a picture of the plastic ring / seal you were talking about but couldn't find one. Before I do that I wondered if I might try sucking a little oil out of the damper with a syringe from above because it was full to the brim.

 

[PhillipJ]

full to the brim.

Surprised you can get anything like full travel with it full. If you remove the damper side top cap with the fork full extended the oil should only just be covering the little ring you can see. Full to the top with the fork full compressed is also too full.

 

[noosa2]

I asked a local suspension shop to adjust the travel on my near new velvet from 80mm to 120mm but they said "the threads on the air spring were crossed threaded and even after using a big sledge hammer and heat they could not move it". The fork is still at 80mm and appears to work fine but I'd really like the travel increased to 120. Any idea what the local shop was struggling with? Do I need a new air spring?

 

[233946]

I asked a local suspension shop to adjust the travel on my near new velvet from 80mm to 120mm but they said "the threads on the air spring were crossed threaded and even after using a big sledge hammer and heat the could not move it". The fork is still t 80mm and appears to work fine but I'd really like the travel increased to 120. Any idea what the local shop was struggling with? Do I need a new air spring?

No, you need a new shop that either will 1) warranty a defective product, or 2) admit they screwed it up and fix it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jton219]

which threads? the foot nut, or top cap? I fit is near new, and the threads are stripped by the factory or the shop, get it warrantied. It is not even about adjusting the travel, it is about being able to service it later.

 

[noosa2]

which threads? the foot nut, or top cap? I fit is near new, and the threads are stripped by the factory or the shop, get it warrantied. It is not even about adjusting the travel, it is about being able to service it later.

I'm not sure what threads. I assumed they were talking about the nut (?) that requires the pin spanner but I that would seem really though to strip or cross thread.

 

[kryten]

Is the 150mm version of RL2 Sweep adjustable to 140mm of travel? I thought they were adjustable in 20mm increments, by setting the pin to 80,100,120,140,160 position. Not sure where the 150mm version fits in.