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The damper is certainly not under a vacuum normally, the bit of air under the damper top cap is at atmospheric pressure when the fork is extended.
I realized after i posted that the space is displaced by the oil as the damper rod extends. doh!

Hey, i've got a sweep rl2 with the same issue. I think what is happening is the damper is sucking oil in from the lowers over time. So it starts off at atmospheric pressure, then sucks some oil in resulting in the same amount of air in a smaller space - hence the pressure build up. I have found it works better if I don't put too much oil in the lowers when I service it so that there's not too much to suck up. If I put in more than the recommended 15ml then the problem seems to occur faster.
This is what i'm thinking too. I noticed that I had a lot less oil in the lowers on one side of the fork than the other and every time i've opened up the damper to let pressure out oil leaked out. I took apart the damper and notice that the seal on the lower rod (the one that has the rebound adjuster on the base has as white plastic seal instead of an O-ring. The seal between that plastic ring and the wall of the damper didn't seem all that great and i suspect that oil could leak past if it was forced down too quickly, I gave it a good coating of slick honey, if that doesn't fix it i'll ask x-fusion to send me another seal and see if that helps.
 
Hello , i need help. I changed the oil in the damper plug X-Fusion Slant RL2 , dismantled the rebound and forgot in what order the washers are going and which side to put the red circle (with small holes). After picking up the fork, I found that the rebound is not working in SLOW mode.

In what order do you need these parts?

 
Lockout?

Can someone help..? I have a RL2 with a locked lock-out. It's locked open, but it does not budge. Not keen to force it, because the little hex pin is so small & soft. Do I need to release the silver nut within the top cap? Will that enable me to dismantle the lockout?
 
Can't tell from the picture but I see the detention ball c clip is removed. Are the 2 check balls and springs accounted for? If not, one of them could be jamming it. I have not had the courage to remove the top not but I imagine that is how you get the rest of the assembly apart.
 
Can't tell from the picture but I see the detention ball c clip is removed. Are the 2 check balls and springs accounted for? If not, one of them could be jamming it. I have not had the courage to remove the top not but I imagine that is how you get the rest of the assembly apart.
Funny you say that, because one of the balls is missing. I did think that it could have been pushed into some groove inside the shaft, but it's hard to see in there.
 
Hey, i've got a sweep rl2 with the same issue. I think what is happening is the damper is sucking oil in from the lowers over time. So it starts off at atmospheric pressure, then sucks some oil in resulting in the same amount of air in a smaller space - hence the pressure build up. I have found it works better if I don't put too much oil in the lowers when I service it so that there's not too much to suck up. If I put in more than the recommended 15ml then the problem seems to occur faster.
I've been having the same issue with my Sweep as well. Glad to know I'm not crazy. The air and oil swap places over time. I had so much pressure building up in the lowers that it would push out the wiper seal!

I had the air spring swapped on warranty, but that doesn't seem to fix the problem. I brought it to my LBS suspension guru and he cleaned everything out of the damper and said he added some kind of heavy grease to keep the air/oil from migrating. I don't have a lot of miles yet this year, but everything seems to be working okay.

Next fork will have the roughcut damper, no question.
 
My RL2 damper seemed to fade in performance on long descents. Upgraded to the Roughcut damper and that improved it tremendously! Feels better than my Pike. Purchased the damper at Worldwidecyclery at a good price.
 
I've been having the same issue with my Sweep as well. Glad to know I'm not crazy. The air and oil swap places over time. I had so much pressure building up in the lowers that it would push out the wiper seal!

I had the air spring swapped on warranty, but that doesn't seem to fix the problem. I brought it to my LBS suspension guru and he cleaned everything out of the damper and said he added some kind of heavy grease to keep the air/oil from migrating. I don't have a lot of miles yet this year, but everything seems to be working okay.

Next fork will have the roughcut damper, no question.
I'm guessing people that are getting pressure in the damper are running high-ish air pressures, rebound closer to closed and compression mostly open? If so, a revalve to stiffer rebound so you can run it in the middle, and running the compression a few clicks out from closed should help fix the pressure balance problem. You may need to re shim the compression too if you can't run it closed. Setting rebound more open means oil can flow through faster on compression to prevent the vacuum behind the piston which is sucking air in
 
I'm guessing people that are getting pressure in the damper are running high-ish air pressures, rebound closer to closed and compression mostly open?
You can't adjust LSC externally on the RL2 damper, it's open or closed.

I was running lowish pressure for my weight (~73PSI for ~175 lbs, X-Fusion recommend ~85 PSI for 170 lb rider) and correspondingly fast rebound.
 
Just write to them if you can't find it in any stores
XF have great customer service
I'm from the Philippines and XF replied to my email, they can give me one but the shipping cost would be very expensive.

Is there anyway or anything that I could do or substitute a different nut for the damper foot nut?
Thanks! ?
 
old chainring nut (M8.5, I think) fits, but you'll have to find one yourself and modify it so it can actually be operated on with a hex socket or some wrench and leave room for the rebound knob to be installed
 
I'm from the Philippines and XF replied to my email, they can give me one but the shipping cost would be very expensive.

Is there anyway or anything that I could do or substitute a different nut for the damper foot nut?
Thanks! ?
How did you damage the nut? Do you have the damper removal/install tool? If you don't then you could order the tools at the same time and spread the shipping cost.
I'm in Australia and local x-fusion dealer here is great. Maybe try emailing them and see if they will ship to you. www.diymtb.com.au
Parts might be slightly more expensive and ex rate may not be in your favour though.
 
How did you damage the nut? Do you have the damper removal/install tool? If you don't then you could order the tools at the same time and spread the shipping cost.
I'm in Australia and local x-fusion dealer here is great. Maybe try emailing them and see if they will ship to you. www.diymtb.com.au
Parts might be slightly more expensive and ex rate may not be in your favour though.
I over torqued it i think, will try emailing diymtb.com.au
Hopefully they have what I am looking for.
Thanks! ?
 
niva, I have such a nut and it fits my RL2 damper shaft threads (on a McQueen)
can be used for disassembly/assembly in place of the RL2 damper tool
 
niva, I have such a nut and it fits my RL2 damper shaft threads (on a McQueen)
can be used for disassembly/assembly in place of the RL2 damper tool
It's been a while since I had mine apart. I think the tool I got has 2 size threads. One is for the damper shaft and one for the air shaft I think. I could have the 2 threads confused.
 
I over torqued it i think, will try emailing diymtb.com.au
Hopefully they have what I am looking for.
Thanks! 🍻
Did you try and use the nut to pull the shaft through or did you use a damper shaft tool? I hear the footnuts can't be used to pull the shaft through the lowers as the threads tear out. They are pretty soft. I would def suggest getting the damper shaft tool if you don't have one. They are pretty cheap.
 
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