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Don't know if this was already mentioned (did not see it), but I picked up this little Damper Removal Tool on Ebay for $13 and it worked perfectly.
Another seller on ebay has the damper tool for 8.83 shipped. I have not yet used it, but it feels like it will do the job. That being said, I've adjusted travel a couple of times without a damper removal tool. You just have to be careful.
 
to be honest the easiest way to fix this is let all air out, loosen damper top cap, compress fork fully, wipe up the oil that's oozed out of the top
I have been using this method of getting the oil level "right" but I think it results in the oil level being a lot higher than just covering the snap ring. There's maybe 60mm between the snap ring and the bottom of the damper top cap. If I submerge the snap ring then fully depress the fork the oil comes up to ~20mm below the damper top cap, not right up to it.

Haven't ridden properly yet with the slightly lower oil volume so maybe I'm wrong but I think I've been over-filling my damper for a year or so.
 
Discussion starter · #463 ·
I have been using this method of getting the oil level "right" but I think it results in the oil level being a lot higher than just covering the snap ring. There's maybe 60mm between the snap ring and the bottom of the damper top cap. If I submerge the snap ring then fully depress the fork the oil comes up to ~20mm below the damper top cap, not right up to it.

Haven't ridden properly yet with the slightly lower oil volume so maybe I'm wrong but I think I've been over-filling my damper for a year or so.
Thats right there still needs to be air space above the oil at full compression, as air is not infinitely compressible. Oil level at snap ring with damper extended is correct.
 
Does anyone know a top-secret source for 32mm seals, or an opinion on the other brands of aftermarket seals (Enduro, SKF, Fox)? I just want to do a seal & oil service on my Velvet.

They were in stock at BTI a month ago when I my LBS said they ordered them, but... long story. Nothing turning up in the usual internet places. Thanks.
 
Does anyone know a top-secret source for 32mm seals, or an opinion on the other brands of aftermarket seals (Enduro, SKF, Fox)? I just want to do a seal & oil service on my Velvet.

They were in stock at BTI a month ago when I my LBS said they ordered them, but... long story. Nothing turning up in the usual internet places. Thanks.
Racing Bros seals are very good.
 
I'm an absolute idiot or just plan lazy on how to setup suspension. I know it's personal preference, but I'm trying to find the sweet spot in the rebound. Website states there's 16 clicks for rebound, but looks to be 34. What do you guys like for rebound settings?
 
I'm an absolute idiot or just plan lazy on how to setup suspension. I know it's personal preference, but I'm trying to find the sweet spot in the rebound. Website states there's 16 clicks for rebound, but looks to be 34. What do you guys like for rebound settings?
Pointers that i use:
Too fast feels like in corners the front never feels planted and will buck you. This is especially true for bumpy corners. You feel like you cant trust the front.
Too slow: going over multiple bumps in rough terrain feels harsh. Reduce until this feels better.

Parking lot tests can get you close but i find these two pointers to give you a useful upper and lower bound.
 
Anyone know if the old style remote lockout is still available anywhere. I have started getting involved in endurance racing on my 130mm bike and I have the slant fork. I love the fork and would like to throw a remote lockout on it. I know someone with the velvet with the original style remote lock and really like the ergonomics of it.

Or if you have the newer style lockout what do you think of it.

Thanks for any info.
 
I just got my Slide 29 back from servicing. Man what a difference. Apparently I'm not nearly as good at maintaining stuff as I thought, because it honestly feels like a different fork now.

Back story: At some point, the front of my bike started making a rattle. There are no smooth trails in Phoenix, especially after summer monsoons, so it's tough to isolate noises.
I made a thread here on MTBR.
I swore it was a bad headset. So I replaced it. rattle still there.
Then maybe I thought it was just brake lines banging. I cushioned everything that touched. Like literally with bubble wrap and velcro and foam. Rattle still there.
I borrowed a Bowie Pro rigid fork to remove the entire fork from the equation. Rattle *seemed* to be gone.

I called X-Fusion and over about 4 calls they asked me to check the brakes, and pads, the hub, The CSU, and eventually disassemble the fork and look for "loose stuff". One of the techs (Clark?) suggested I look at the top out spring. Sure enough, the spring wasn't seated (I guess?) and the rubber boot thing was wrecked. The suggested that I get some big shrink wrap and cover it. (suggesting a user fix and not "Send it in" is amazing, IMO)

I asked on a whim, "What would the cost be to just send it in and have you do a full service, fix the spring, and oh, I've read on the internet you can/will tune the damper so it's not a lockout, but a descendable 'platform'. Can you do that?"
"Sure we can." they said. "tell ya what, here's your RA#, we'll charge for a custom tune and since it's apart, we'll just fix the spring and do oil and grease since it's apart. Probably looking at $60."

One week later, they charged me $60, plus $15 to ship it back, It's got all new internal seals, the dust wipers were checked to be in good condition, the rattle is gone, the lockout is a firm platform that will give with a bunny hop/impact but not bob with standing pedaling, and the fork is smoother than ever.
It's not quite my dream fork, performance-wise, but it works well, it's easy enough to work on, and I'll be damned if X-fusion doesn't have some amazing customer service.

One thing as a side note: I specifically discussed my desire for "improved small bump plushness" and was specifically told that because of the damper design, that isn't really changeable, but the lockout can be re-done. He said that a full factory service would probably improve the small-bump performance a fair bit. I didn't want to really get into the "Well, I read about people doing it on (this thread) MTBR with success, so you can too". All in all, it's not as plush as my old Float, or a Reba, but it's *much* better than it was before. I'll take it.
 
I just got my Slide 29 back from servicing. Man what a difference. Apparently I'm not nearly as good at maintaining stuff as I thought, because it honestly feels like a different fork now.

Back story: At some point, the front of my bike started making a rattle. There are no smooth trails in Phoenix, especially after summer monsoons, so it's tough to isolate noises.
I made a thread here on MTBR.
I swore it was a bad headset. So I replaced it. rattle still there.
Then maybe I thought it was just brake lines banging. I cushioned everything that touched. Like literally with bubble wrap and velcro and foam. Rattle still there.
I borrowed a Bowie Pro rigid fork to remove the entire fork from the equation. Rattle *seemed* to be gone.

I called X-Fusion and over about 4 calls they asked me to check the brakes, and pads, the hub, The CSU, and eventually disassemble the fork and look for "loose stuff". One of the techs (Clark?) suggested I look at the top out spring. Sure enough, the spring wasn't seated (I guess?) and the rubber boot thing was wrecked. The suggested that I get some big shrink wrap and cover it. (suggesting a user fix and not "Send it in" is amazing, IMO)

I asked on a whim, "What would the cost be to just send it in and have you do a full service, fix the spring, and oh, I've read on the internet you can/will tune the damper so it's not a lockout, but a descendable 'platform'. Can you do that?"
"Sure we can." they said. "tell ya what, here's your RA#, we'll charge for a custom tune and since it's apart, we'll just fix the spring and do oil and grease since it's apart. Probably looking at $60."

One week later, they charged me $60, plus $15 to ship it back, It's got all new internal seals, the dust wipers were checked to be in good condition, the rattle is gone, the lockout is a firm platform that will give with a bunny hop/impact but not bob with standing pedaling, and the fork is smoother than ever.
It's not quite my dream fork, performance-wise, but it works well, it's easy enough to work on, and I'll be damned if X-fusion doesn't have some amazing customer service.

One thing as a side note: I specifically discussed my desire for "improved small bump plushness" and was specifically told that because of the damper design, that isn't really changeable, but the lockout can be re-done. He said that a full factory service would probably improve the small-bump performance a fair bit. I didn't want to really get into the "Well, I read about people doing it on (this thread) MTBR with success, so you can too". All in all, it's not as plush as my old Float, or a Reba, but it's *much* better than it was before. I'll take it.
Drop in a Roughcut damper. You won't be sorry......
 
I'm getting way too much stiction. Took the fork apart and it's obviously the main air seal in the air chamber. I can take out the air shaft, roll the seal in a tub of slick honey, put it back in the chamber, and can immediately feel the stiction without even screwing in the base plate or putting the lowers back on. Anybody else ever get this problem? Maybe I should order a new air shaft assembly from x fusion?
 
You can get an air spring seal kit for under 20 bucks. Might try that before the whole piston assembly. Do you have oil above the piston? Also, are you sure its not just the wipers? My fork always felt better right after cleaning and lubing the wipers.
 
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