[dwyooaj]

well i finally got out there and tested out two-one's mod that I did on my sweep. Quite a difference, seems to have more traction and small-bump compliance. Amazing how much softening the high-speed shim stack affects small (but square-edged) bump absorption. Also, the fork used to "chatter" under heavy braking in certain conditions, that has lessened. All in all, great modification for someone who doesnt like "firm" suspension. Thanks!

 

[bkmad]

well i finally got out there and tested out two-one's mod that I did on my sweep. Quite a difference, seems to have more traction and small-bump compliance. Amazing how much softening the high-speed shim stack affects small (but square-edged) bump absorption. Also, the fork used to "chatter" under heavy braking in certain conditions, that has lessened. All in all, great modification for someone who doesnt like "firm" suspension. Thanks!

Is this when set to the open setting or the 'locked' setting?

 

[zakkpw]

Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

 

[zakkpw]

Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

 

[dwyooaj]

Is this when set to the open setting or the 'locked' setting?

Open setting. The locked setting is a bit softer too, blows off easier.

 

[cplagz]

Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

Not sure of the solution - but a mates Sweeps have had the same problem and have been sent back to Australian distributor to get fixed.

Mine are off there today after having a seal service done and this has happened 3 times now (after being rebuilt each time) in 3 weeks.... bought some Pikes instead now.

 

[zephxiii]

Open setting. The locked setting is a bit softer too, blows off easier.

Did you check oil level in the damper?

 

[two-one]

Did you check oil level in the damper?

He's not talking about a problem, but reporting the experiences after modding the lockout-blowoff shim stack, turning it into a highspeed regulating shimstack.

 

[dwyooaj]

Oil level is perfect, since the reshim necessitates a full rebuild!

 

[ztbishop]

An update on the missing travel / stanchion issue from before. It turned out that the part I had received a while back was a newer 120 spring without adjustment, which is why it seemed too short. I just recieved the correct 140 Velvet air spring assembly.
I finally have the full amount of stanchion....IF I put 90+ in the fork (which is too much to be useable.)
I found that 65 PSI is the right amount for me....which gives me about 135mm to the bottom out point (after a few rides I managed to use 120 of it).

What I'm finding is that the negative coil spring pulls the fork down from top-out area unless I put a LOT of air in it, which makes it less than a true 140 at the right pressure. Has anybody else noticed this, or found a way around it? (The zip-tie trick doesn't seem to make a difference with only 65psi in the fork).

I assume this is a trade-off for the small bump compliance (which is nice that it has no stiction at all.)

 

[vanderwheelstander]

Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

I have a Slide with the rl2 damper, and I have the opposite problem with rebound, in that it is too slow. I modified the stack of the triangular shims on the rebound piston, putting one of the small round spacers in between the two triangular shims, but it's still a little too slow.

Additionally I found that there are spacers between the shaft of the damping rod and the rebound valve body, and that removing these spacers would allow the finger that the adjustment knob affects to block the orifices it affects earlier, giving more damping.

From the other photos earlier in this thread it looks like the internals differ some between the fork models, but maybe this will give you a starting point.

 

[Ramjm_2000]

I have a Slide with the rl2 damper, and I have the opposite problem with rebound, in that it is too slow. I modified the stack of the triangular shims on the rebound piston, putting one of the small round spacers in between the two triangular shims, but it's still a little too slow. View attachment 941373 View attachment 941374

Additionally I found that there are spacers between the shaft of the damping rod and the rebound valve body, and that removing these spacers would allow the finger that the adjustment knob affects to block the orifices it affects earlier, giving more damping.

From the other photos earlier in this thread it looks like the internals differ some between the fork models, but maybe this will give you a starting point.

Is your fork an OEM or retail model?

 

[vanderwheelstander]

My slide is a retail model. It was delivered in retail packaging, anyway. Purchased from eBay so its provenance can't be established.

I'm planning to tear into it again today to open up the rebound even more, and to do two-one's mod to the high speed compression stack.

zakkpw's problem, I'm re-reading, might be a lack of oil issue, although I'm not sure if he's experiencing it more in the fork or in the rear shock.

 

[cobym2]

Ooops!

Tinkered too much with the shims on my sweep. I rearranged the shims on the "high speed" stack a few times and used 2.5 wt oil. I liked the super plushness on slow rocky trails, stair steps, etc. as well as the fact that the lockout was now a softer trail mode. However, it tended to dive when braking, and on high speed runs, the fork actually felt better with the "soft" lockout on. Thus, I tried to reconfigure the stack to be more firm.
When I tested the fork out, it felt ok, but now my lockout lever does nothing. Even when I returned the shims to stock configuration, the lever does not appear to change anything. I even changed back to 5wt Golden Spectro. I'm stumped. While I didnt really use the lockout lever before, the "trail mode" was very useful for me.
I'll try to open up the fork and damper again and retrace my steps...again. Maybe I misplaced a shim somewhere, or forgot to tighten a bolt?

 

[two-one]

Tinkered too much with the shims on my sweep. I rearranged the shims on the "high speed" stack a few times and used 2.5 wt oil. I liked the super plushness on slow rocky trails, stair steps, etc. as well as the fact that the lockout was now a softer trail mode. However, it tended to dive when braking, and on high speed runs, the fork actually felt better with the "soft" lockout on. Thus, I tried to reconfigure the stack to be more firm.
When I tested the fork out, it felt ok, but now my lockout lever does nothing. Even when I returned the shims to stock configuration, the lever does not appear to change anything. I even changed back to 5wt Golden Spectro. I'm stumped. While I didnt really use the lockout lever before, the "trail mode" was very useful for me.
I'll try to open up the fork and damper again and retrace my steps...again. Maybe I misplaced a shim somewhere, or forgot to tighten a bolt?

Your damper is apparently not blocking the oil flow... so first things first.. is there enough oil in your damper to submerge the piston? A lot of people fill an emptied damper, and forget to cycle the rebound piston a couple of times to make sure the space below the reboundpiston is filled with oil as well.
Next, did you maybe reverse the compression piston? Or did you not stack the piston and shims in the correct order? it should be as follows:
Compression Rod
(3) 12x0.15mm shims
(4) 18x0.15mm shims
(1) 18x0.3mm ring shim around the 16x0.15mm shim (this creates preload)
(1) 18x0.2mm shim (this is the faceshim, and should cover 6 out of 9 ports
Piston
(1) 18x0.? shim that covers the 3 other rebound ports
(1) spring that pushes the shim with the narrow side down
bolt.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[vanderwheelstander]

Cobym2, two-one has way more experience on this subject matter so start with his suggestions, but something that happened in my Slide (with remote lockout) is that the compression assembly was threaded to the top cap, and the nut holding my compression assembly to the top cap came loose, causing the whole assembly to rotate when applying the lockout rather than just the valve in the middle.

 

[cobym2]

Your damper is apparently not blocking the oil flow... so first things first.. is there enough oil in your damper to submerge the piston? A lot of people fill an emptied damper, and forget to cycle the rebound piston a couple of times to make sure the space below the reboundpiston is filled with oil as well.
Next, did you maybe reverse the compression piston? Or did you not stack the piston and shims in the correct order? it should be as follows:
Compression Rod
(3) 12x0.15mm shims
(4) 18x0.15mm shims
(1) 18x0.3mm ring shim around the 16x0.15mm shim (this creates preload)
(1) 18x0.2mm shim (this is the faceshim, and should cover 6 out of 9 ports
Piston
(1) 18x0.? shim that covers the 3 other rebound ports
(1) spring that pushes the shim with the narrow side down
bolt.

Let us know what you find out.

Cobym2, two-one has way more experience on this subject matter so start with his suggestions, but something that happened in my Slide (with remote lockout) is that the compression assembly was threaded to the top cap, and the nut holding my compression assembly to the top cap came loose, causing the whole assembly to rotate when applying the lockout rather than just the valve in the middle.

Two one, vanderwheels:

Thanks for the tips. I did as suggested. Everything was in its proper place. Correct orientation. As I mentioned, i already modded it previously several times and just wanted to firm it up a notch.
But just now I noticed another problem while stripping it down. The lock out knob wont turn. Its frozen in place in the open position. I cant see why. The only reason I can imagine is that the tube containing the lockout rod has ovalized somehow, preventing the inner rod from turning, but I never clamped that tube at any time. Stumped again.

Update: Just to make matters worse (or simpler), I managed to break the lockout rod at the knob-bolt. I now have a Sweep R, instead of an RL. x#@*G#%!!!!

 

[cobym2]

Just an update. I swapped the damper body from my "broken" Sweep damper with the one from my Velvet RL2 on my hardtail. Fairly easy procedure: Just use the topcap and piston from the Sweep (larger diameter). Sweep is good to go again. The Velvet, however, had to take one for the team.

 

[Fparra]

HELP - Broken Air Valve - X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA

Hi...

I have a X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA - very pleased with the fork - the thing is that i broke the air valve in the lower leg... don't ask how!!!

Need to replace... do you know where to find the replacement part???

Best Regards...

 

[dwyooaj]

Hi...

I have a X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA - very pleased with the fork - the thing is that i broke the air valve in the lower leg... don't ask how!!!

Need to replace... do you know where to find the replacement part???

Best Regards...

Call xfusion directly. Santa cruz office. Its on their site.