lift and turn the black cover where the compression knob would be to close up the compression. see the fox parts drawings for help

 

Oh cool thanks. I saw that in the drawings but was afraid to mess with it

 

For the bottom out issue, see if you can find a volume spacer kit.
Stock probably has a 0.4, so there is room to go up.

What is the serial number on it? On the air can eyelet side, 10 numbers followed by a "T".
XXXXXX-XXXX-T

 

I will check that out. SN is 828339-0383-T

 

What’s your weight? I just put a factory float x on one of my bikes. I weigh about 210lbs and my pressure is at 255psi. I’m running the .6 spacer with no bottom outs but I don’t have and big jumps or big drops on my trails. The firm setting is nowhere near a true lock out on this particular shock. It just firm it up as you stated.

 

What’s your weight? I just put a factory float x on one of my bikes. I weigh about 210lbs and my pressure is at 255psi. I’m running the .6 spacer with no bottom outs but I don’t have and big jumps or big drops on my trails.

I’m what is considered a hefty. I’m 250lbs currently and dropping about 2lbs per week so I’m confident that in 2 months or so it will feel less spongy.

 

It sounds like you just need to run some more pressure. Is your sag setting close to where it should be?

 

The low speed adjustment is for things like berms and g-outs. It keeps the shock from compressing as easily on slower speed forces such as those.

 

Copy. I should say the bike is night and day better than the yeti (2010) I have and I should probably spend more time riding it.

my sag is about 30+ percent at 270 psi. I have a nicer shock pump on the way so hopefully it doesn’t bleed as much when I disconnect.

thanks for your advice and insight so far.

 

This is the tune;

2022, FLOAT X, P-S, A, 2pos, Trunnion, Evol LV, Transition, Patrol, 205, 60, 0.7 Spacer, CMSSAL001, PRMAL001, Rezi LLB3, No Logo, Neutral Logo

Volume spacers go up to 1.1, so you may be able to put a larger one in there to prevent bottom out.

As for the tune;

-The base valve does have the "light" lever setting as well as a big bleed on the shim stack. It can for sure be firmed up by changing both of those.

-The compression stack is pretty good, but has a very large gap before the HSC kicks in. This can be easily changed as well.

-The rebound stack is preloaded and may not be the best choice for higher air pressures as it will be really fast at higher shaft speeds. It will feel slow when pushing on it, but may not offer enough damping when riding.

If you really want the shock to work well, you can get these things changed as well as the rebound tuned for your weight. These shocks are a great platform and would work really well with some minor tweeks.

Diaz Suspension Designs in Colorado has been tuning these shocks for a while now, and he has a great setup for them. Give them a call and tell them what you want and that it is a brand new shock and therefore doesn't need any seals changed. It would only run you $170 in labor for a killer shock tuned for you.

 

Thanks a lot for the advice!! I will definitely look into a volume spacer to start then move on to a tune if I feel it could be better. My only fear is that once I start modding and tinkering it will end up like my Toyota Tacoma haha

 

Max pressure is 350psi so you definitely have room to increase your pressures. 30+ % sag is going to be very plush and a lot less supportive. I’m not sure what your bike calls for but I tend to shoot for no more than 28% sag on my rear shocks but definitely keep it in the range that the bike calls for and recommends.