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Looking for a the best hard tail mountain bike under 1200

13K views 35 replies 12 participants last post by  Ricked  
#1 ·
I am on the lookout for a hard tail mountain bike and I am willing to spend 1200.

Looking forward to do a lot of trail riding and looking for something that will hold up good for all obstacles that I will encounter.

I have a 2008 specialized enduro comp sl at the moment and it’s an amazing bike but it’s built for downhill and not for trails.

I live in Canada so if anybody has one for sale I would definitely be interested.

But mainly I am just looking for some feedback on what’s out there and some advice on what the best bang for my buck is.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
I am on the lookout for a hard tail mountain bike and I am willing to spend 1200.

Looking forward to do a lot of trail riding and looking for something that will hold up good for all obstacles that I will encounter.

I have a 2008 specialized enduro comp sl at the moment and it's an amazing bike but it's built for downhill and not for trails.

I live in Canada so if anybody has one for sale I would definitely be interested.

But mainly I am just looking for some feedback on what's out there and some advice on what the best bang for my buck is.

Thanks

Sent from my Asus Rog 3 [emoji123]
 
#3 ·
I haven't shopped myself, but the response I keep seeing for posts like this is "the best bike is the one that is in stock in your size." Probably best to see what's available from your intended source (either local shops or internet vendors, or both) and then choose from what's available. For used bikes, Pinkbike buysell is a good source, especially if you're in Canada.
 
#4 · (Edited)
CRC/Wiggle will ship in 4 days when a bike restocks. Get on the notification list.
A Ragley Big Al 29 1.0 is what is a recommendation. Link.
Here's a review.- Link.
This bike has a frame designed with rear vertical compliance. This is a major consideration for a hardtail. And it's not mentioned like it should be.
You can look on Pinkbike Buy/sell for used.
Going with whatever is available locally is throwing your money in the trash. And spending again on a good bike or giving up the sport will be your next choice.
 
#5 ·
Big Al 1.0 looks nice, but is out of stock and costs $1700 USD + stated $155 shipping to US. You also have the potential issue of customs costs and hassle when ordering from Wiggle to ship to US--don't know about Canada but could be similar?

@THE_ROCKII Your budget is 1200 Canadian or US? Either way, the Big Al is way over budget for you, unfortunately.
 
#6 ·
The reality is your costs to ride for a couple seasons. You'll spend more, a lot more, buying a cheaper bike today.
And at the end of your 'upgrade' process you'll have a less capable bike than if you consider the advice of someone who has gone that route.
Many who start with the cheaper less capable bike never ride a good hardtail.
They're quickly disappointed.
Then they look at full suspension as the only way out. Good fs is $4k and up. Plus heavier and requires more maintenance.
You can skip all those earlier steps and up your budget now for a Transition Spur or Spec Epic Evo fs.
 
#12 ·
If you watch the Hardtail Party videos, including the one I linked to, you may see something that you feel is worth it.
You can also contact Steve for his consultation on your choice.
You sound like you want a good value good performing bike instead of something just to get started.
Another bike often priced well in Canada is a Giant Fathom 29 2. The fork isn't as good as the excellent Z2 but it may be more available. The fork is a new Giant branded 34mm design with some early teething problems.
Hopefully Giant has sorted those.
The fork performance is a big part of a bikes capability. So the Z2 is valuable, imo.

If you buy a 1200 bike here's what you'll spend.
500 for a Z2 fork or more for a Fox 34 Grip 2 damper fork. Fox bought Marzocchi who makes the Z2 to use their damper.
That fork or a RockShox Pike is about 900.
You'll buy new wheels because yours aren't wide enough to run 2.4 or 2.6 tires at low pressure.
You need at least 30mm of inner rim width like on the Big Al. Wheels will be 300+.
You'll want better brakes to stop from crashing when downhill speed gets out of your cheap original forks limited capability. 200. You can get by just replacing the front which does 70% of the stopping. 4 pot Shimano MT520 or better.
The Big Al comes with 2 pot Deore front and rear. You can change just the front if you need more stopping power
 
#15 ·
There's a lot to consider here, with many options that can make sense. The one option that is a clear mistake is to buy a cheap hardtail and then spend a bunch of money upgrading it. However, it might make sense to buy a "cheap" (<$1200) hardtail, ride it well, and then sell it to buy a more capable bike later (when your budget might be higher, and the bike market might be more reasonable). I personally put several thousand miles on a hardtail that cost under $1000 USD at the time (around 2014), riding it completely stock, and it served me well, including an 80 mile ride with >10,000 ft of climbing. I also had a FS bike at the time, so tended to take the hardtail for longer mixed terrain rides, but when I broke the frame on the FS bike I rode the hardtail exclusively for about three months, on all sorts of terrain (but not hardcore downhill runs, obviously). There are fairly cheap but good components available now (especially the new Deore series) that I think you could find on the bikes in your pricepoint. I personally don't think it's worth spending money on a more expensive hardtail. In the simplest engineering terms, a hardtail lacks an essential component of a well-engineered wheeled device, i.e. the rear suspension. It doesn't make sense spending money on the other parts of the machine without addressing the essential engineering weakness. Others may disagree. But in any case, this view leads me to the recommendation that if you're going to increase your budget, hold out and get a FS trail bike (new or used). Depending on how you plan to ride, you could even consider a newer XC bike--these have gotten slacker along with the rest of the industry, and other than suspension travel, these are pretty capable bikes. In more normal times, I would suggest to buy the lowest-level "good" FS trail bike you can find--this might be an aluminum frame model with Deore level components (I personally prefer Shimano over Sram). In 2016 you could do this for less than $2500 USD with end-of-season deals (when I bought my aluminum Orbea Occam). I think the industry actually introduced more decent lower-end FS bikes in the intervening years, but with the COVID supply chain shocks, reports are that it's hard to find these bikes. Whatever you buy, you want the frame, fork, shock, and wheels to be keepers, because these are expensive to replace. Everything else is changeable and much of it (drivetrain, even brakes and dropper post) can be considered wear items.

But let me ask: how bad is riding the current 2008 Specialized? What exactly is wrong with it? Have you ridden other bikes recently that clearly address the issues with your current bike? It would be good to do that if you haven't. It could focus your quest.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the detailed reply.

I'll start by saying that i love the 2008 specialized bike but the issue I am facing is that the front and rear suspension being older don't have and lockout features that make trial biking easier especially if there is a lot of uphill.

I am beginning to wonder if a better option would be to just upgrade the suspension system to something that has the capabilities to be a good FS trail bike.
(Just wondering what the difference is between and FS enduro and a FS trial bike is?)

What are your thoughts and maybe recommendations on what components what work for this.Also my budget won't be has high as buying a new bike then because I would've been selling this for the main income to buy a new one.

Thanks
 
#17 ·
I don't think it's worth it to spend any money on the 2008 Specialized, other than wear items to keep it running and make it saleable. The categories keep sliding around, but I think of an XC bike as being something that is made for efficient pedaling but can also handle some descents and rough terrain, maybe 100-120mm suspension travel, pretty much all 29er these days. A trail bike is maybe 130-140mm travel with more bias towards descending than an XC bike, but still made to be pedaled over distance, can be 29er or 27.5. Enduro definitely biased towards the descents, but still rideable uphill (though not enjoyable probably), longer travel than a trail bike. Then there's full downhill rig with dual crown forks, you push it uphill instead of riding (or take a lift). There's also "downcountry" which is an XC bike fitted with a longer travel fork, to handle somewhat rougher terrain (with effectively more slack geometry).
 
#18 ·
Gotcha
I think my best option then is to look around and find the best hardtail that I can get within my budget. A FS trail would obviously be the better option but I’m thinking that if I were to cheap put on that then I’d be replacing and upgrading parts and it just wouldn’t be worth it.

But for the type of hardtail that I am looking for would be nothing too fancy but something with a decent group set and an okay front suspension. I might be a bit practical but for me, spending a ton of money on other features like a dropper post and other features that you don’t necessarily need is a no no as biking is not a full time hobby for me.
 
#20 ·
so I have two potentials right now. Both are pretty evenly priced but have different components.
TrekRoscoe 7
GiantFathom 29 2

I am looking at these two at the moment and I am wondering which one y'all are thinking would be the better buy.

If you have another bike that is around this price range that you think would be better please let me know and I'll look into it.

Thanks
 
#21 ·
I'd go with the Giant. Deore 12 speed has a much better reputation than SRAM SX. The 12 X 148 thru axle is seen on high-end bikes and is better than the QR on the Trek. The geometry of the Giant is more modern than the Trek (seat and head tube angle for example) and should help with both climbing and descending. It would also likely help with resale.

That said, the Giant fork is perhaps a bit unproven. But I'd still go with the Giant.

The Kona Honzo is fun and tough. Mine has seen some airtime and beatings and is holding up fine to my 215 lb weight kitted out. Apart from tearing the sidewall on one tire...I've wrecked nothing yet.

The Devinci Kobain is in the same wheelhouse as the Honzo and Giant. Good value, modern bike.

That said, try the bike if you can. I'm almost 6'3 and went with a large Honzo....the XL is freaking huge. Size is very important and the Trek may still be the best machine for your personal tastes. Bit more value in the Giant, Honzo and Kobain though, in my opinion, and I like the modern geometry that each of these provide. The trek is more traditional XC.
 
#22 ·
Here are another two that I’m looking at with a lower price.

Giant talon 0
Kona Mahuna

Still not sure if I want to invest more then the price that I suggested previously so I’m considering all options. And I don’t live in a highly populated area so bike selection is not as good as other areas. I was in a couple bike shops yesterday and basically the earliest I can get a bike is next year January.
 
#23 ·
Here are another two that I'm looking at with a lower price.

Giant talon 0
Kona Mahuna

Still not sure if I want to invest more then the price that I suggested previously so I'm considering all options. And I don't live in a highly populated area so bike selection is not as good as other areas. I was in a couple bike shops yesterday and basically the earliest I can get a bike is next year January.
Wow. Next January. That sucks. Both of those bikes look decent. The Giant has Deore 12 speed which is great at that price point. I have never had it but it gets great reviews. I do have the 11 speed Deore on my Honzo and that works fine...plenty of range with a 51 tooth on the cassette. The 12 speed is said to shift much better and be a good upgrade though.

Your decision really comes down to what you want the bike for. If you want to ride rough or trails with any downward gradient a dropper post is invaluable for safety, comfort and fun and I'd see real value in spending a little more for the geometry and dropper you get with a Honzo, Kobain or the Fathom 29 2. I was a dropper post hold out for years...but once I finally got one I was quickly convinced. I can't imagine riding anything remotely technical or steep without it now...you just have so much more freedom of movement with the seat out of the way.

Also, if you see yourself perhaps getting hooked and wanting to progress to a full squish, having something with a 110 mm thru axle on the front and a 12 x 148 rear thru axle makes sense as you can keep your hardtail and there is a good chance that wheelset may be swappable with your new bike too (at least at the moment,,..they change these standards so much). Compatability between bikes is great when you bust something. Right now I have a $10,000 full sqush (a 2020 Santa Cruz Hightower X01 CC) and a $1700 2021 Kona Honzo. I ride both regularly and thoroughly enjoy both... just in different ways. You can get a surprisingly capable, crazy fun and tough little machine for $1700 bucks. It is a sweet spot I think.

Anyways,,,.have fun, don't sweat it and ride what you got. Skills mean more than machine at the end of the day. So get out, play around, and put on some miles and smiles.
 
#24 ·
K last one I promise... lol

I have decided that for what I want to do with my bike, its not worth it to me to invest too much money. Also being a bit limited to what I can buy because of the area I am in, I have slimmed it down to three options and I am hoping that I can get some more insight on them and which one would be the better bike.
-Giant talon 0 -$1200CAD
-Kona blast -$1300CAD
-Rocky mountain Growler 20 -$1300CAD

I am looking for a some more info on these bikes and which one ya'll are thinking would be the better one.
Thanks
 
#25 ·
For me, it would be the Growler. The Growler is a 29er with the best descending geometry and a nice steep seat tube for climbing. It is an example of a modern Hard Core Hard Tail. It has the current / popular hub standards. 10 Speed is fine. It is a bike that you can progress on on steeper, rougher trails and may be a keeper as you move on to a full squish. And when / if you do move on the wheels may be swappable with your new bike.
That said, if you are particularly short, 27.5" wheels may be more your thing. 27.5" is more playful (arguably) but has a little less contact patch and rolls over rough obstacles less efficiently....more likely to hook up / loose momentum. But some short folks find they buzz their butts on steeps with the big wheel in the back. The 27.5" bikes in your list (Giant, Kona) would be less capable on the downs though (geometry more set up for mellow trails) so maybe this is a wash.
I'f you are riding on purpose buils MTB trails of Blue or Black rating, and are looking to progress in skills and what you ride, buy the Growler and look at adding a dropper when the budget allows. Trust me...,if you are riding anything other than a flat city bike path....a dropper is a game changer. Then ride the shite outta that thing!
 
#28 ·
I picked mine up today. I didn’t get a chance to do much with it other than ride it around the yard. It pedals smooth and it’s pretty well balanced. We don’t have much elevation here in my part of Florida so I can’t really say anything about climbing or descending just yet. It doesn’t feel very heavy, but it’s not very nimble, I guess would be the word. This could just be because of my inexperience though. It feels HUGE, it fits me, but I feel like I’m way up in the air.

I think it was supposed to come with Shimano MT200 brakes, but mine came with tektro’s. I’m not to concerned about that though. It did come with the Deore 10 speed, which shifts nicely. Overall I like it and can’t wait to get out on the local trails with it.
 
#29 ·
I'd check secondhand first before checking stores.
Better bang for your bucks.
 
#30 ·
I'd check secondhand first before checking stores.
Better bang for your bucks.
Not sure if it's the same everywhere's but the second hand market around here is more expensive then going's out and buying a bike new and waiting a bit.

I guess people are realizing that everybody wants a bike and they mark there bikes up by a few hundred and the heck of it is they actually sell fast. So yeah
 
#31 ·
I see some "coof-specials", but not that many. Most second-hand bikes in my country isn't insanely priced.
But I gotta say one person was kinda pushing it. Going for a 25% markdown from full retail on an old dusty unwashed Kona Process 134.
 
#32 ·
I see some "coof-specials", but not that many. Most second-hand bikes in my country isn't insanely priced.
But I gotta say one person was kinda pushing it. Going for a 25% markdown from full retail on an old dusty unwashed Kona Process 134.
I guess it varies from country to country. But the area that I'm in it's slightly ridiculous. I'm talking like selling a 5 year old plus bikes that were worth 400 new for 700.

Too bad I don't have a couple like that laying around. Lol

But on the flip side, people that are selling more expensive bikes around that 3k value are respecting the fact that just because bikes are rarer to come by in these hectic times they won't usually over charge the buyer.
 
#33 ·
Just an update for anybody that might be interested.

Picked up the Rocky Mountain growler last week and so far really like it. The ride is smooth and the bike is very comfortable.

Don't know how many people will get this reference but you need 40 acres to turn this rig around, hence the 66degree head tube angle. So if you got tight trails it will be pretty interesting when using this bike. I took and XL frame and I compared the length with a couple of my friends bikes that are also XL and this one is a full 6 inches longer.

Also I ended buy a crankbrothers dropper and let me tell you so far, it's pretty sweet.
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#34 ·
Sweet. Glad you like it. And yes...bikes today are very long. You can (and need to) ride more centered....you don't need to hang off the back so much like the old days. You should also find much more steep terrain confidence as you get used to this one. That dreaded going over the bars feeling should be much less common. Have fun and put on the miles and it'll come together.
 
#36 ·
I am on the lookout for a hard tail mountain bike and I am willing to spend 1200.

Looking forward to do a lot of trail riding and looking for something that will hold up good for all obstacles that I will encounter.

I have a 2008 specialized enduro comp sl at the moment and it’s an amazing bike but it’s built for downhill and not for trails.

I live in Canada so if anybody has one for sale I would definitely be interested.

But mainly I am just looking for some feedback on what’s out there and some advice on what the best bang for my buck is.

Thanks
This should nake you happy
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