Both my Lefty and non-Lefty have a small amount of travel/rebound in lock-out mode. Not sure if thats right, but both of mine do that.

 

It happens on Fox forks and Rockshox SID, but I wanna know if it happens on XLR Lefty or not? Would like to know it's working properly or not.....

 

Yes,all current XLR and PBR Leftys have a blowoff. It works like the platform in the rear shock.

 

^This^.

 

Thanks WV rider and Mendon!

 

Different Lockout issue with my 2012 XLR

I JUST finishe putting together my bike, with a 100mm 2012 XLR 29er...

and the lockout remote took ALL my strength to push in... don't know what is going on here...I pushed it in, compressed the fork, pushed it "out" compressed the fork...neither was locked out...

then I pushed it IN one more time and the hydraulic hose POPPED off the little christmas tree shaped fitting that goes inside the hose?!?!?!

WTF is going on here??? The fork is BRAND NEW...

Help PLEASE! :madman:

ps...I DOOOO love my Lefties...just never had one with the remote lockout, and am bummed to be having an issue before I even get it out on the trail.

Thanks in advance =)

Tim

any suggestions?? it doesnt seem

 

WTF is going on here??? The fork is BRAND NEW...

Sounds like a job for the dealer you bought it from. Shouldn't be something you need to take care of.

Yet another example of why buying from a dealer is a good idea, bad things do sometime happen to manufactured products.....

Best of luck with it!

 

Talk to Mendon Cycle Smith, they'll be able to sort you out...

 

Does anybody know what the gate vale adjuster barrel on the remote lockout switch does?

 

The gold colored piece that has + -- - on it?
I have never turned mine but I assume its similar the the pad adjustment on Avid brakes.

 

Yep, that one. The manual says it has been factory adjusted and to not touch it which sounds strange. Why have an adjustment barrel on something that should never be adjusted? Somebody on another forum says it improved small bump compliance by turning it.

 

I have removed the whole remote lock-out system of the fork before, actually when you do a bearing reset it has to be removed. As for affecting small bump compliance the only thing I could think of is that even with the button pushed it is still putting pressure on the lock circuit causing a restrictive oil/air path?? because the adjuster was turned full one way or another. When a bike sits on a shop floor I'm sure every dial/knob gets turned by wandering hands.

 

I would listen to what Mendon has to say as I only have about 3 months experience with the Lefty

 

The golden knob does change the behaviour of the 2012 XLR 29er, at least it did for me and some others. The fork was quite "unsensitive" as it was brand new and as I turned it all the way in, ie. anti-gate+ dirction, it changed a lot and works like a charm now. I actually don't know nor care how it works but it does affect the fork a small bumbs.

 

Lefty XLR Question:

Seems like I may have a similar problem. I have a new Lefty XLR on a Flash 29er 2. When pushing the remote lock out button with considerable force (it was stuck locked out) the hose popped off and fluid shot out. The fork works but seems to be partially locked out all the time. I have not bled yet, for I don't know how to do this exactly.

Any suggestions??

 

Hey bcsnowcat,
Just wanted to know if you got this issue sorted out.
I just assembled my new 2012flash carbon 2 and I'm having exactly the same problem with my Rockshox XLoc.
I'm just getting into MTB and this is my first good bike.
I am pissed.
Any help or info would be greatly appreciated mate.
Cheers

 

http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/XLoc-Hose-Adj-and-Bleed-Procedure.pdf
partially lock can be repaired with that tips....you probably lost a little oil in a remote locking, so that can not fully unlock, when you squeeze the handle

 

I have another XLR lockout issue with the XLR lefty from my flash29er 1:
Problem i unlock the lefty... works fine.
When i try to unlock the lefty the lockout knob is locked in the unlock position.
When i start "milking" (trying serveral times) i get it locked again.
Unlocking is no problem so i think there is no air in the system or i'm i wrong?

Any ideas that i can fix it myself?

 

Anwser was simple: remove the bleed screw on top, pull the lockout lever back (as described in the manual above) and add a few droplets of wt5.
Works perfect now.
Only curious if it would return (leaky loutout lever?)

 

Question for the group here.... Here is the issue I have;
Fork = XLR 100 carbon
I am not getting full travel, lockout is not working and the fork is no longer plush in non-lockout mode. I had it serviced worked fine. Road it and it worked fine AT FIRST then gradually gets stiff/way less plush like it's kind of locked out. Had LBS (a great shop) service it again and re-bleed the lockout. That fixed it, until I went home, hung the bike on the ceiling upside down. I took it down today and its back to NOT plush at all feeling like it is semi-locked out. Also the lock does not work, it's like its stuck in the middle of lock out and float! I took the air out and cycled the shock same problem, reduced the air, same problem..... What do you think is going on, what needs to be replace?

 

Sounds like an incomplete lockout control bleed.

My two cents?Dump the XLR, go PBR and never have to deal with the silly lockout bleeding again....

 

So can I convert my XLR to PBR? If so what would it cost....THANKS for the 2cents

 

It would be done during a time when the damper was torn down. Service rates vary widely, just as quality of the job does.

The PBR button can be purchased, the stainless actuator piece it bolts to, cannot. So, it would need to be at a shop that deals with a fair number or the forks, and would then likely have a spare parts bin with some dead dampers in to rob the parts off of.