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58K views 41 replies 18 participants last post by  rismtb  
A
#1 ·
What makes a good klunker frame, is it just about any bike and frame? Or are there certain brands. Why asking I might want to try and find a good old frame and put either disc brakes or v brakes on it. I have seen alot of old bikes fixed up on this site, some frames looked pretty shtty other alot of work put into frame to make bike looke excellent.
I sure alot of money too?

Are there any forums where you can go to look for ideas and information? I mean there is this one but this also is more about mtb. bikes right?

Are bike swap meets a good place to pick up a old frame, and what would be a good price to pay? OO sure you can not say until you see it, but there is a refurb bike shop where I am and they are asking top dollar for some pretty crape bikes and frames. Yes everyone is allowed to make a profit, but just asking where else to look? Are there any good bike swamp meets that have decent bikes and frames here in the NE say between baltimore and CT.?
 
#3 ·
1 cog frog said:
Follow the link to an advanced search for klunker in this forum. Lots of great examples of the original klunkers, some sweet newer ones, extreme modifications, and some great stories. Enjoy, this is where I got my ideas for my klunker project. Have fun and good luck in your search.

http://forums.mtbr.com/search.php?searchid=6481059

frog
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Looks like the link doesn't work anymore.
 
#6 ·
The question is like asking, "What makes a good hotrod?" Find a frame, any frame, and build a bike. And if you come across a better frame, move the stuff over. Some klunker builders try to recreate the original '70s version, but the parts are hard to come by and it's a lot easier to build a hybrid.

As Mike pointed out, Alan Bonds is the master of the craft, the only link left to the real Old Skool that Alan helped invent. Look upon his site, my son, and get ideas. Alan builds all kinds of bikes, depending on what kind of parts he has been able to round up. His paint jobs are beautiful.

This is a photo I took of one of Alan's bikes on a sunrise ride to the top of Mount Barnaby in Marin County, around 1977. He's had thirty more years since then to perfect his art, as if it wasn't already perfect then.
 

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#7 ·
Repack Rider said:
The question is like asking, "What makes a good hotrod?" Find a frame, any frame, and build a bike. And if you come across a better frame, move the stuff over. Some klunker builders try to recreate the original '70s version, but the parts are hard to come by and it's a lot easier to build a hybrid.

As Mike pointed out, Alan Bonds is the master of the craft, the only link left to the real Old Skool that Alan helped invent. Look upon his site, my son, and get ideas. Alan builds all kinds of bikes, depending on what kind of parts he has been able to round up. His paint jobs are beautiful.

This is a photo I took of one of Alan's bikes on a sunrise ride to the top of Mount Barnaby in Marin County, around 1977. He's had thirty more years since then to perfect his art, as if it wasn't already perfect then.
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Love that picture. Thanks for all you share with us here.
 
#11 ·
ericb49 said:
CK - Alan built a replica of that blue bike...it's coming out west next week :D

Image


I'll bring it to the FTF
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That bike may also make it to the May 3 Toro park DH races, Monterey area (across from Laguna Seca aka Sea Otter Classic venue).

This bike will be there, too. :thumbsup:
 

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#14 ·
scant said:
does the front mech actually make that shift? looks like a massive difference between chainring sizes?
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Yes, it IS a big jump - funny that was also my first reaction when I first saw the bike LOL - Alan says it works so nuff said.

jeff said:
(scooterdude) I see you built up the new drums. How are they working for you?
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check out the scooterdude page we put on Alan's site :thumbsup:
 
#15 ·
jeff said:
I see you built up the new drums. How are they working for you?
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Pretty good, I'd say. They're no discs, but have good modulation for the first few seconds of use, before starting to fade at high speeds.

And, good enough to win DH races at Toro against suspended and disc-braked modern bikes, not to mention much younger motors. And fast enough to have made the podium in EVERY Expert class at the April 11th race based on its race time in the Open single-speed class. LOL :thumbsup:
 

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#16 ·
scooderdude said:
Pretty good, I'd say. They're no discs, but have good modulation for the first few seconds of use, before starting to fade at high speeds.

And, good enough to win DH races at Toro against suspended and disc-braked modern bikes, not to mention much younger motors. And fast enough to have made the podium in EVERY Expert class at the April 11th race based on its race time in the Open single-speed class. LOL :thumbsup:
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Great picture. You're a bad ass!
 
J
#20 ·
Pre-war Fleet straigth-bar

You guys have really given me the bug to build a klunker (at least a poor man's klunker)

I scooped this up on CL yesterday, and found what I think is a Schwinn Sidewinder fork except it's painted blue?

Anybody know what a "Fleet" is? I can't find much with google... maybe a relative of a Schwinn?

Image

Image

Image
 
#22 ·
It's a big score and you couldn't do better for a klunker start -- for any amount of money. The same models were sold under a lot of names, and you got the Holy Grail.

Here is Alan Bonds' collection of head badges. Note the similarities.

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Pretty sure you didn't stumble across that anywhere near where I live.

How about keeping the original fork and adding fork braces?
 
J
#24 ·
Repack Rider said:
It's a big score and you couldn't do better for a klunker start -- for any amount of money. The same models were sold under a lot of names, and you got the Holy Grail.

Here is Alan Bonds' collection of head badges. Note the similarities.

Pretty sure you didn't stumble across that anywhere near where I live.

How about keeping the original fork and adding fork braces?
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Cool -- thanks for the info. The any "amount of money" comment makes me feel better about spending $80 on my poor man's project.

I bought it on the other side of Michigan from where I live and will pick it up in a week or so. So it sounds like I can track down the year as a Schwinn serial number?

Pardon my ignorance, but is that the original fork? And what is a fork brace?

I know these aren't nearly old enough for a faithful klunker, but these are the cranks I found.

Image
 
#26 ·
J_Westy said:
Pardon my ignorance, but is that the original fork? And what is a fork brace?

I know these aren't nearly old enough for a faithful klunker, but these are the cranks I found
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The fork looks original, and if it is it is worth keeping. "Fork braces" were the largely cosmetic rods that went from the dropouts to the top of the headset and stiffened the wimpy old fork a little. Far higher on the klunker coolness scale than a new aftermarket fork.

Your '70s Campagnolo crankset may work for you in your part of the world, but the typical gearing (52/42) wouldn't be low enough for Marin County hills, and the usual 170mm length would be a little short for big climbs. If it works for you, it is a piece of jewelry far nicer than the TA cranksets that adorned all the '70s Marin klunkers. The choice of TA cranks for Marin klunkers was because they came in lengths up to 185mm and inner rings as small as 26T, both helpful in getting these heavy bikes up very steep hills of the sort you don't have to deal with

Rather than brazing on cantilevers, I would go with drums front and rear.

If I had seen a bike like that, I would have grabbed it in a heartbeat.
 
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