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Internal routing with housing or not

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27K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  NH Mtbiker  
#1 ·
I just got a new frame and parts, trying to build my first bike, with no previous experience. I have seen/read that a lot of frames have these thin sleeves routed through the bike that you route your shifter cables through and then pull out once the cables are in place. My frame doesn't have this thin sleeve, but seems to have a large sleeve fully internal to the frame that you can't remove that will route the cable all the way through to the chainstay.

Do I route just the cable through? Or the whole housing? There are only holes for the entry, no grommets on either end. If I route just the cables, will I have to get some grommets to make it work?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
#3 ·
Agree. It sounds like a full length housing scenario. If it were meant to be bare cables, it would need cable stops (actually housing stops) at each end where the housing would terminate and the entry/exit of the frame. Also, bare cables need something between them and aluminum/carbon they would rub on to prevent them from cutting in.
 
#5 ·
It just seemed like that is what most frames do.
I wouldn't go so far as to say most frames do one thing or another. There are several different ways of handling cable routing. Plenty of bikes put cable stops on the frame and run interrupted housing for the parts inside the frame. Quite a few don't use routing channels of any kind, whether they're full length housing or interrupted housing. I don't tolerate that crap anymore.

I'm personally not a fan of interrupted housings of any kind. And if it's going to be internal routing, I want channels.
 
#7 ·
Optimally designed and set up, interrupted cables should be slightly better in that they'd have less friction, less housing compression and be lighter weight. The design is commonly not optimum and neither is the installation so they almost always wind up being worse than full length housings. Then there's the other benefit of full length housing, less opportunity for contamination to enter the housing. Of course the weight diff is pretty small and would matter only to hardcore weight weenies.

Running cables internally can be exasperating but isn't usually too tough if you're set up for it and have some experience and common sense. If there's one already run, it can almost always be used in some fashion to guide the new one through. Some frames have removable cable entry/exit covers that open pretty wide and ease fishing cable through. Basically you should have a few lengths of cable liner (thin plastic tubing that the cable fan fit through). And end-to-end housing/hose coupler can come in handy (Sram makes one) and the Park Tool internal routing kit can really come in handy.
 
#9 ·
My feelings as well. Internal routing is fashion over function IMO. If I owned a bike with internal routing, I expect I'd seal the frame ports and zip-tie full length housing outside the frame. But I understand I'm among the minority. So be it. We each have to make our own way.
=sParty
 
#11 ·
i purposely drilled out my frame grommets to be a slight interference fit with shimano sp41 housing on my 2017 topfuel 9.9 and 2016 domane 6 series. I put full length housing on everything for 2 reasons, servicability and the fact that you only have 2 "joints" rather than 4 where you need housing ends and blah blah. Shiting quality went up once replaced with full length and will do it on all my bikes. the trick...well "trick"...is to just use quality housing and cables and keep up on maintenance. 30 foot of shimano sp41 housing on amazon for 27 bucks, and the polymer cables are amazing.
 
#15 ·
The worst internal routing is for dropper cables. If they get “stuck” around the bottom bracket it’s crank and bottom bracket pulling time just to remove your seat post! Well, that’s how a Trek I had was assembled at least. My current metal framed HT bike I squeezed a line for my Stealth dropper past a Praxis bottom bracket. That thing is CRAMMED in there, but it works fine as it’s a hydraulic line. There is no way a cable could make that routing.
But, to the OP, if I had the choice I’d run full length housing. Cleaner and easier. Plus, when you want to change the cable you got 2 full length pieces you can use to assist in routing each other through the frame.