Available in Star Destroyer Grey and Bug Zapper Blue, the new Ripmo V2 has a one degree slacker head angle, improved lower link protection, updated dropper post cable routing, more progressive and coil compatible, and it's a smidge stiffer.




1. Float X for the win, by a lot for a trail build.I am working on my light Ripmo build and have 2 questions:
1. Is the Float X worth the extra $$ over the Float X2? The frame some with the X2 so I would have to sell it and buy a float X.
2. Should I go with S35 carbon wheels or 933 AL wheels? Is the S35 carbon going to feel slower due to the wide tire profile causing more tire drag?
How did you get 12.5kg which is like 27.5 lbs? My Ripley is 27 and i struggle to get under that. Mine is XL though.You can go either way.
Ripley with 140mm Grip 2 and Fox Float X Rips!
Ripmo with 160mm Grip 2 and Fox Float X rip(s)mo(re)!
First option for a slightly better uphill performance and vice versa.
I went with option 2 and keep a lightweight Wheelsets, so you have 2 bikes in 1. Ripmo build with light wheelset is about 12.5kg. Some stock XC-bikes comes with that weight. 😉
I prefer the DVO Jade X coil over the X2. both the original 22_23 that came with the bike and the untuned 24.Coil users how are you enjoying it on your Ripmo?
I am seriously debating dropping the X2 for either a Ohlins TTX Air 2 (big can), had one on my Evil and it was hands down the best air shock I have ever ridden, OR going with a coil either Cane Creek Kitsuma or Ohlins TTX22 since they are both certified for Yoke style linkages but I am having a hard time deciding.
I know a lot of you were going for Ripmo as a long legged Trail bike but I am think more mini enduro bike, funny to say that since it was literally an enduro bike a few years back. Just curious to how the bike gets along with it.
Check some pages before. There is a picture of the old build with 12.9kg - it all depends on the rims and tire if everything else is maxed out. 😉How did you get 12.5kg which is like 27.5 lbs? My Ripley is 27 and i struggle to get under that. Mine is XL though.
Might need a picture of it so i can get some ideas..
I definitely bottom mine out even on small drops to flat. Small meaning ones that you could roll. If I send it off those, I am always met with a bottom out. That was when I was a few lbs heavier though, tbh. About 10 lbs more. I might have been on the limit of the coil weight at that point.I dig the coil. Small bumps disappear and traction is incredible.
Some people feel the Ripmo suspension isn’t progressive enough, and they easily bottom out a coil. I haven't had this issue, but I am not sending huge drops. Seems like a progressive spring would help this.
The weight is obviously a small drawback, but I only notice it taking the bike off the hitch rack. I don’t feel it on the trail.
Hmmm ok I just looked back at it. I still don’t get how you get down that low. Are you running super light wheels? My components are fairly light and not sure I can save a lot more weight without compromising bikes ability.Check some pages before. There is a picture of the old build with 12.9kg - it all depends on the rims and tire if everything else is maxed out. 😉
You can get the X on sale at fox right now. Can't help you but I considered swapping then decided I'm fine with my x2 and it suits my riding.I am working on my light Ripmo build and have 2 questions:
1. Is the Float X worth the extra $$ over the Float X2? The frame some with the X2 so I would have to sell it and buy a float X.
2. Should I go with S35 carbon wheels or 933 AL wheels? Is the S35 carbon going to feel slower due to the wide tire profile causing more tire drag?
I ran a jade x with a 500 LS at 165lbs and bottomed out so hard until I cranked the preload almost to the max. I ride harder since I ran it so I'm not sure if I even want to run a heavier spring on the Ripmo. After my first park day, I might just buy a longer travel bike this winter that would pair better with a coil.I definitely bottom mine out even on small drops to flat. Small meaning ones that you could roll. If I send it off those, I am always met with a bottom out. That was when I was a few lbs heavier though, tbh. About 10 lbs more. I might have been on the limit of the coil weight at that point.
I don't do anything bigger than 2 foot drops though, because I'm a big wuss.
I am in between spring rates in the Ibis guide, and I run the stiffer spring. So I may be slightly oversprung but it still feels great. Happy with the setup.I definitely bottom mine out even on small drops to flat. Small meaning ones that you could roll. If I send it off those, I am always met with a bottom out. That was when I was a few lbs heavier though, tbh. About 10 lbs more. I might have been on the limit of the coil weight at that point.
I don't do anything bigger than 2 foot drops though, because I'm a big wuss.
Preload won’t change the force required to bottom out a coil. It can raise the sag point minimally by loading it down into its travel. You either needed a higher spring rate or a progressive spring. Or an air shock.I ran a jade x with a 500 LS at 165lbs and bottomed out so hard until I cranked the preload almost to the max. I ride harder since I ran it so I'm not sure if I even want to run a heavier spring on the Ripmo. After my first park day, I might just buy a longer travel bike this winter that would pair better with a coil.
I only used it for a few weeks but now I want to run it to see how much travel I actually go through. Not sure what I was experiencing because I clearly remember feeling clunks through the frame but maybe it was something else.Preload won’t change the force required to bottom out a coil. It can raise the sag point minimally by loading it down into its travel. You either needed a higher spring rate or a progressive spring. Or an air shock.
Springs are linear devices. The shock stroke does not change with preload, however. Added preload changes the amount of force needed to get the spring compressing at the beginning of the stroke. Think through how that would change SAG And it becomes clear that you can preload out some of the weight of the bike to keep the sag point a little higher.Not doubting you but wouldn't sitting higher in the travel mean you have a few more mms to full compression?