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id say its the “not soft enough to absorb the bump”, i’m not experienced or knowledgeable enough to do any sort of custom settings, currently just set my sag to 30% front and rear and use the Ibis traction tune for 2021 fox damping settings suggestions.
Gotcha, so you want the rear to be more compliant over the tech stuff on climbs. The cool thing here is- YOU GOT AN X2! One of the most tunable air shock out there. It’s got a low speed circuit and a high speed that us DVO boys can only dream about.

If you are 190lbs, I’m guessing you default your air pressure to around 230 psi. At that setting, the 2021 charts sets your LSC at 3-5 clicks from full close. Try to wind that out more- I mean you got 18 clicks to play with from full close. But try it out 2 clicks at a time at that same climbing spot to see if there is an improvement. Full close= more low speed compression, making it “not soft enough”.

Manufacture’s suspension guide are just that. It gets you in the ballpark but you need to do some fine tuning to suit your terrain and riding style. Don’t be afraid to play with the settings and experiment, that’s why the X2 has 4 adjustments. 5 if you count tuning with tokens! Did I mention an X2 is highly adjustable??

Edited to mean LSC, not LSR.


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id say its the “not soft enough to absorb the bump”, i’m not experienced or knowledgeable enough to do any sort of custom settings, currently just set my sag to 30% front and rear and use the Ibis traction tune for 2021 fox damping settings suggestions.
While I don’t use sag to set up my forks it will get you into the ballpark and 30% is too much sag for the front end.
30% front and rear will make the bike feel unbalanced. 20% for support and 25% for a plusher feel is closer to the money for the front end. I set my rear sag to 32% my front is somewhere closer to 20%.
 
While I wholeheartedly agree 30 % sag isn’t normal for the front end, this is what ibis recommends on their traction tune forks. I’ve never ridden one so I can’t comment what it’s like but it is their setup. Personally I’m selling the 36 that came on my Ripmo to run a Lyrik so I’m not even going to try it… but I am curious… my guess is I’d prefer the standard fox valving because my last 36 rode very well at 20% sag
 
Hey MTBR I am considering both the Ibis Ripmo and SJ EVO. I am 5'9" and looking at the M and S3 sizes. I was wondering how the size M Ripmo cockpit feels as far as length compared with the SJ EVO S3 if anyone has ridden both? I pedaled an S3 SJ EVO around the parking lot and was surprised it felt a bit cramped. I do prefer an upright seated climbing position for my low back though so not sure about upsizing and have not been able to test an S4 or any of the Ripmo sizes yet. Someone posted that they thought the RIPMO M size was in between the S3 and S4 SJ EVO and would like to confirm if possible. Thanks!
 
Use geometrygeeks.com and compare the two. Ripmo M is 13mm longer top tube but 6mm shorter stack compared to EVO S3. So it’s going to feel a little bigger but not a huge change. At 5’9 I can’t imagine you would want a S4 Evo or a L Ripmo…

M/S3 are probably the right size and you should be fine with either. Cockpit has a huge impact - stem length, handlebar width, saddle fore/aft can all make a bike feel bigger or smaller, esp when combined
 
While I wholeheartedly agree 30 % sag isn’t normal for the front end, this is what ibis recommends on their traction tune forks. I’ve never ridden one so I can’t comment what it’s like but it is their setup. Personally I’m selling the 36 that came on my Ripmo to run a Lyrik so I’m not even going to try it… but I am curious… my guess is I’d prefer the standard fox valving because my last 36 rode very well at 20% sag
I think the 30% sag is for "standing". IOW, put all your weight on the fork and kind of stand on it while straddling the top tube. I saw this on The Lost Co videos, that's how he does it, and IIRC this is the procedure that Ibis uses in their set-up procedure online. I use this method and it's more consistent than seated sag.
 
That makes sense but Ibis recommended pressure on the 36 is also quite a bit less than what Fox recommends. My guess is Ibis recommendation still ends up with less Dynamic sag than fox.
 
Over the past week I have read nearly all of the 52 pages of this forum; fun, informative reading, I learned a lot. I have been fortunate enough to own a bunch of bikes and now own a 2022 Ripmo, XTR build with Ibis S35 carbon wheels as well as a 2022 Specialized Stumpy, Expert build. I have a lot of things to add and questions to ask but for this post I will stick with suspension.

After riding many bikes; Yeti, Pivot, SC, Intense, Specialized, Ibis I believe one suspension set up is better than the rest. My Ripmo has Ohlins RXF36 M.2 fork, 160 mm, 144 mm offset and Ohlins TTX shock. This combo is easy to set up and absolutely brings the best out of this bike. The online reviews are stellar, type Ă–hlins TTX Air Shock Review in Google / Youtube. I wanted to add this input for those contemplating suspension set ups for your new Ripmo build. Sorry for the horrible pics.
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Very curious to hear your thoughts on the stumpy vs. the ripmo. I realize they aren't really in the same category, but those are the two bikes I think of as having the most "bang for your buck" when you consider optimizing pedaling capability vs descending capability. (Currently on V4 ripley w/ pike and dpx2 and its my favorite bike ever, but I had to sell me enduro bike and am curious what can be as fun as that thing while still allowing a bit more downhill prowess)
 
Very curious to hear your thoughts on the stumpy vs. the ripmo. I realize they aren't really in the same category, but those are the two bikes I think of as having the most "bang for your buck" when you consider optimizing pedaling capability vs descending capability. (Currently on V4 ripley w/ pike and dpx2 and its my favorite bike ever, but I had to sell me enduro bike and am curious what can be as fun as that thing while still allowing a bit more downhill prowess)
If you like your Ripley 4 but want just a bit more capability why not just go with what you know and like and get the Ripmo and build it up light? You can build them up with a 38/Zeb, coil, heavy ass tires, etc but you can also build them up really light with a Pike, 30mm wheels, single piston brakes, etc.

Don't get me wrong, many 4 bar bikes are great but none of them will ever pedal like an Ibis if that Ripley feel is important to you.
 
If you like your Ripley 4 but want just a bit more capability why not just go with what you know and like and get the Ripmo and build it up light? You can build them up with a 38/Zeb, coil, heavy ass tires, etc but you can also build them up really light with a Pike, 30mm wheels, single piston brakes, etc.

Don't get me wrong, many 4 bar bikes are great but none of them will ever pedal like an Ibis if that Ripley feel is important to you.
The new stumpy is not actually 4 bar, its a flex stay, which is kind of why I am interested (plus, I really like its geometry). I've heard great things about the new suspension design. But again, you're right, I love the feel of the DW link. I had a horst with my sentinel, and it was a really good time, but just not as much fun.
 
I Believe the Stumpy EVO is still a 4 bar rear. I have ridden a SWorks stumpy that has the flex stays and really liked it but it is an entirely different bike from the EVO. Had a fox 34 up front and was very light for a large (and a $10k pricetag). The v2 I have is about 4 lbs heavier than that Stumpy but that is mostly in brakes and fork. I think the Stumpy EVO with a 36 is going to be much closer in weight and travel to the V2 and having ridden other Horst link bikes, I think the climbing and pedaling isn't going to keep up with the Ibis. I agree with others who said that if you like your Ripley, the Ripmo is kind of a no-brainer. It really comes down to DW Link vs Horst link. There has been plenty written on that subject.
I'm not a big fan of that 1400 gram 38 they are putting on the new V2 either. No doubt it is a great fork but If you are after a lighter, more climbing friendly rig, I think a Mezzer or Lyrik make more sense. I have a Mezzer on mine... couldn't be happier with it.
 
I Believe the Stumpy EVO is still a 4 bar rear. I have ridden a SWorks stumpy that has the flex stays and really liked it but it is an entirely different bike from the EVO. Had a fox 34 up front and was very light for a large (and a $10k pricetag). The v2 I have is about 4 lbs heavier than that Stumpy but that is mostly in brakes and fork. I think the Stumpy EVO with a 36 is going to be much closer in weight and travel to the V2 and having ridden other Horst link bikes, I think the climbing and pedaling isn't going to keep up with the Ibis. I agree with others who said that if you like your Ripley, the Ripmo is kind of a no-brainer. It really comes down to DW Link vs Horst link. There has been plenty written on that subject.
I'm not a big fan of that 1400 gram 38 they are putting on the new V2 either. No doubt it is a great fork but If you are after a lighter, more climbing friendly rig, I think a Mezzer or Lyrik make more sense. I have a Mezzer on mine... couldn't be happier with it.
Got it -- the regular stumpy is flex stay, the evo is 4 bar. Between the evo and ripmo, its definitely ripmo for me. It would be fun to build it up reasonably light without loosing too much capability. Definitely no 38 for this guy, I was plenty happy with the 36 on my sentinel.
 
I would add another vote for building the Ripmo as a long-legged trail bike instead of a full on enduro monster-truck. The Ripmo pedals so well and is still capable on the descents, it feels "sporty" - like you can feel the trail underneath you and pop all over the place. It's a bike you can pedal all day. Once you add heavy components (i.e. 38 and DH tires) it loses part of what makes it an all-day trail bike.

If you're looking for something to use a Fox 38 there are countless options (anything 160+ in rear - Slash, Firebird, Wreckoning, Enduro, Spire), unless you happen to be a 220+ lb rider who needs a stiff fork on their trail bike.
 
I’ve got a rimpo in xl and tried to built it up pretty light and got to about 30lbs. 29.5lbs with rekon tyres. The x2 shock is pretty heavy so could go further with the weight drop.
But saying that I’m tempted to get a ripley to be my xc trail bike. Ripmo climbs well but on longer distance, gentle rides and steeper climbs it’s overkill. Exie would be nice but it’s just so expensive.
 
I’ve got a rimpo in xl and tried to built it up pretty light and got to about 30lbs. 29.5lbs with rekon tyres. The x2 shock is pretty heavy so could go further with the weight drop.
But saying that I’m tempted to get a ripley to be my xc trail bike. Ripmo climbs well but on longer distance, gentle rides and steeper climbs it’s overkill. Exie would be nice but it’s just so expensive.
My size L has a Float X, Mezzer, Turbine cranks, carbon bars and wheels and fairly light tires (950 in front and 900g in back) with XT drivetrain and still weighs 31.8 lbs. Is the difference in the dropper and brakes? Must be... I've got a Loam dropper and 200mm rotors with Magura MT5 calipers.
 
My size L has a Float X, Mezzer, Turbine cranks, carbon bars and wheels and fairly light tires (950 in front and 900g in back) with XT drivetrain and still weighs 31.8 lbs. Is the difference in the dropper and brakes? Must be... I've got a Loam dropper and 200mm rotors with Magura MT5 calipers.
My rough spec is below-
Fox 36 2021 - added kabot axle which is lighter.
XO1 drivetrain with XX1 dub crankset.
Race face turbine R stem
Race face next r bars
1650g Carbon wheels - Sixth element with DT swiss 240 hubs.
Dissector front and aggressor rear for past summer riding
Fox 2021 dropper 150mm
Bontrager saddle 230g
Superstar TI pedals
Xt 4 pot brakes with 203 CL ice tech rotor front and 180 rear. Ti bolts.

Most of the weight difference is drivetrain and then little bits start to add up after that, Kabolt, saddle, ti pedals, light hubs etc. I had loads of parts from a SB100 which i went weight weenie on before so could transfer some parts. I have some alloy wheels with DHF and DHR tyres on and tbh i really like the grip and comfort those provide, but can be a bit slow up hill.

I could could go lighter still with different tyres and lighter brakes, but for this bikes intent, i feel like you're trying to turn it into something that it's not designed for. I've had a lot of bikes and always feel like the one bike quiver is just hard to reach, so i prefer having an two bikes these days, one for aggressive stuff and one for the calmer xc days.
 
Yeah, that crankset, brakes and dropper are all lighter. Adds up to 2 lbs in a hurry... Not that I was going for a weight weenie build, but was trying to keep it light. I know people laugh at weight weenies and while I'm not a full on WW, lighter bikes just ride better. Uphill, downhill and in everything in between. Takes less effort and makes it more injoyable.
 
If you're going full weight weenie the X2 saves at least 200g over DPX2. Also the Lyrik is about 100g lighter than the 36 grip 2 and Mezzer.

I'm a big fan of the X2 though, and okay with XT build weighing ~31.5 lbs (also running double-down aggressor in the rear). +200g in the shock is a lot less noticeable than weight in the fork IMO
 
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