[masonmoa]

Ibis quality, warranty and the nitty gritty
Need to went a bit - letting my thoughts about the Ripmo out

Has anyone else had problems with their Ripmo v2 frame? I cracked my size Large in one week
I've only done 370miles (600km) on mine.

So you rode your bike 370 miles in one week? Or you cracked it the first week and are still riding it while cracked?

 

[Dude!]

Ibis replaced my Ripley V4 frame immediately for a warranty issue. I was very honest with them and sent pictures of me jumping the bike (20 ft gaps). I know this is the Ripmo thread, but man I love my Ripley!

 

[OzIbis]

Pointed post about AF vs V2.

I like a few others moved to a V2 from an AF. Lots to like about. a BZB v2 but here's my comparison and honestly a peeve

V2 is a smoother, quieter, quicker/flickier side to side ride. A certainly more refined version of the AF. Looking back if I had to do it all over again... meh - not so sure. Listen - I get what you'll read here - that Im complaining for having one of the nicest all rounders in the bike industry. Really Im not but just saying - would likely be spot on happy w the AF now that I have time to reflect and plenty of rides under my belt.

Which brings me to the confusing part... rear suspension feel/ride.

My AF w Topaz was brilliant. Wide sweet spot, and one of the best air shock rides I've ever had - even to this day. V2 - same shock, setup the same and absolute crap. Still crap - keep trying and even sent to DVO for "warranty". Got it back bolted her up and crap. Harsh, cant use full travel without numerous tradeoffs etc... I ran the AF/Topaz nearly wide open and it worked so well and was so compliant. V2 w same setup and Im getting thrown about and just a harsh ride. Start to slow the rebound and the bike is dead and more harsh. BTW - I have a near new, sent to DVO topaz for sale

Fortunately I bought I JadeX coil takeoff. Solved for most of the issues found trying to get as good a ride out of the V2, Yet - I'm still struggling to find near the same DH capability and ride quality I had developed/tuned w the AF and Topaz.

The AF/Topaz had a pretty wide window where it felt good to great all the time. 27-35% sag and it worked great. No complaints really. V2/Topaz - never came close. Even w the coil the window and rides where I've been Oh yeah - there it is, at best 1 in 10.

I've spent a lot of time being very persistent in setup. Used the bracketing method etc... I've clearances the bushes very carefully (thanks Oz/Tan etc...), checked all the pivots. Frankly when wheel and shock off and simply cycling the triangle and shock yoke - I cant feel anything - its not tight, no notches/hitches etc - it moves very nicely IMO. Sorry to be all sour grapes but I'm a bit flummoxed at the situation and wishing I had my old bike back... Any thougths/ideas??

Unfortunately on this one I can't help you. Mine is a dream ride and performs in a way the AF never quite could. It was close in some ways but never there.
It's weird I can't think of any reason why your bike is handling the way it is. When I got my V2 I swapped the suspension over from the AF and put the DVO stuff back in the AF. The crossover was pretty similar I just had to make small tweaks in preload etc to make up for the reduced weight. I've recently changed my fork set up pretty dramatically but up until then everything was pretty close between the two bikes. You've got me stuffed I can't think of anything to tell you to try other than what you don't want to most likely because of the cost factor but apart from that I can't think of anything. I'll keep thinking though.

 

[kamper11]

Thanks OZ - its really been confounding and doesn't make sense why the rear sun feels so different from the AF. I should have kept the AF shock Maybe there is some fork harshness that's made it hard to balance the front / rear feel as well. My shop is gonna dig in to the mezzer this week and do the shim removal as well as a service. Candidly the fork is feeling in need of some love right now so maybe that will help things. If the front and rear aren't working well together it can certainly lead to a bike feeling "off"... Ill keep tinkering in small bites and brackets.

 

[OzIbis]

Thanks OZ - its really been confounding and doesn't make sense why the rear sun feels so different from the AF. I should have kept the AF shock Maybe there is some fork harshness that's made it hard to balance the front / rear feel as well. My shop is gonna dig in to the mezzer this week and do the shim removal as well as a service. Candidly the fork is feeling in need of some love right now so maybe that will help things. If the front and rear aren't working well together it can certainly lead to a bike feeling "off"... Ill keep tinkering in small bites and brackets.

What was your exact riding weight again? Pretty sure it was pretty close to my weight. I've just done a major pressure change to my Mezzer and the results were super surprising to me. It is dead set amazing now. I thought it was good before and sang it's praises but now WOW.
I was going to say are you sure the feeling you are getting isn't at least partially coming from the front end. I would stop playing with the rear for now get that fork sorted and give the set up a go that I give you and see if you are happy after that.

 

[kamper11]

Im about 145 fully geared up riding weight these days. Fork I believe may be more of the culprit than I believed but will see how the shop work changes that. Still not sure where to go with the pressures frankly - but will start with the Manitou baseline and go from there to say the Dougal recommended pressures if I need to....

 

[OzIbis]

Im about 145 fully geared up riding weight these days. Fork I believe may be more of the culprit than I believed but will see how the shop work changes that. Still not sure where to go with the pressures frankly - but will start with the Manitou baseline and go from there to say the Dougal recommended pressures if I need to....

So I'm 73kg (160lb) ready to ride and I've just upped my pressures to 52 main and 84 IRT after I did the shim mod. I was at 42 and 62. The fork felt really good and was plush. Now it stills feels plush at speed but the support and control I now have is infinitely better. I slowed rebound 1 click to 5 from fully closed and backed of the LSC to 1 click from open and HSC open.
Amazing handling. The formula I've been using recently to get a set of starting pressures is set the main to 32% of your weight in pounds and the IRT to 52% of your weight. For a few people now it has worked out to be pretty spot on. All were on the lighter side though. Not sure if it will work the same for heavier riders.
i recommend you try 47 main 76 IRT around 6 or 7 clicks of rebound from closed and both HSC and LSC open after the shim mod and see how that feels. I assume you are removing the 17.5mm and not replacing it rather than putting the 12mm back in in its place.

 

[bullit43]

After a Ripmo AF and then a Banshee Titan I found out that I'm in love for the Ripmo but this time on a carbon frame,I'm not a young lad anymore so need a lighter frame.

 

[TanMan]

After a Ripmo AF and then a Banshee Titan I found out that I'm in love for the Ripmo but this tive on a carbon frame,I'm not a young lad anymore so need a lighter frame. View attachment 1947372

Woohoo! Another AF to V2 convert here- the latter is definitely more spritely.
The AF is Ibis' gateway 29er addictive substance for sure, such a good bike in its own right.

I just bought a Dissector too and can't wait to put it on once the DHR2 knobbies fall off. [emoji23]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bullit43]

Woohoo! Another AF to V2 convert here- the latter is definitely more spritely.
The AF is Ibis' gateway 29er addictive substance for sure, such a good bike in its own right.

I just bought a Dissector too and can't wait to put it on once the DHR2 knobbies fall off. [emoji23]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes ,when I first bought the AF it came with the Assegai in the back ,what a core ,change to a DHR and it turns the bike onto a much more agile steed ,this time I'll give a go on the Dissector

 

[kamper11]

So I'm 73kg (160lb) ready to ride and I've just upped my pressures to 52 main and 84 IRT after I did the shim mod. I was at 42 and 62. The fork felt really good and was plush. Now it stills feels plush at speed but the support and control I now have is infinitely better. I slowed rebound 1 click to 5 from fully closed and backed of the LSC to 1 click from open and HSC open.
Amazing handling. The formula I've been using recently to get a set of starting pressures is set the main to 32% of your weight in pounds and the IRT to 52% of your weight. For a few people now it has worked out to be pretty spot on. All were on the lighter side though. Not sure if it will work the same for heavier riders.
i recommend you try 47 main 76 IRT around 6 or 7 clicks of rebound from closed and both HSC and LSC open after the shim mod and see how that feels. I assume you are removing the 17.5mm and not replacing it rather than putting the 12mm back in in its place.

Plan is to remove it and not replace with any other shim size. fingers crossed!! Thanks as always for the inputs!

 

[Penny]

Im about 145 fully geared up riding weight these days. Fork I believe may be more of the culprit than I believed but will see how the shop work changes that. Still not sure where to go with the pressures frankly - but will start with the Manitou baseline and go from there to say the Dougal recommended pressures if I need to....

I'm the same weight running 39/61 on my 160mm Mezzer. Rebound is 4 clicks out from closed. LSC and HSC are open.

 

[GiddyHitch]

Woohoo! Another AF to V2 convert here- the latter is definitely more spritely.
The AF is Ibis' gateway 29er addictive substance for sure, such a good bike in its own right.

I just bought a Dissector too and can't wait to put it on once the DHR2 knobbies fall off.

Same here. After throwing a bunch of carbon upgrades at the AF, the frame was the next logical choice and I liked the color and lines better not to mention the ability to fit a full sized water bottle. Seems like it handles a little better and is definitely quieter.

Dissector in the rear is money - awesome amounts of grip and rolls surprisingly well. Assegai up front pairs nicely.

 

[OzIbis]

I'm the same weight running 39/61 on my 160mm Mezzer. Rebound is 4 clicks out from closed. LSC and HSC are open.

If you've had the shim mod done then I can just about guarantee those pressures are too low. I would experiment I think you'll be surprised. If your shim stack is still stock then I get the pressures you are running but I strongly recommend you get one of the 17.5mm shims taken out. It's a game changer. Also if your fork is a 2021 tune with the standard rebound stack then your rebound is set pretty slow for the pressures you are running. I would think that 6 and maybe even 7 clicks from closed would be closer to the money. I wouldn't mind betting that the fork is packing to at least some extent giving you are harsher feeling ride.

 

[Funken]

If you've had the shim mod done then I can just about guarantee those pressures are too low. I would experiment I think you'll be surprised. If your shim stack is still stock then I get the pressures you are running but I strongly recommend you get one of the 17.5mm shims taken out. It's a game changer. Also if your fork is a 2021 tune with the standard rebound stack then your rebound is set pretty slow for the pressures you are running. I would think that 6 and maybe even 7 clicks from closed would be closer to the money. I wouldn't mind betting that the fork is packing to at least some extent giving you are harsher feeling ride.

No shim stack mod. I might do it when I service it next time. I have zero harshness. I've experimented with all kinds of pressures and rebounds over two years (nearly 200 rides). I'm actually running the same rebound on my 21 that I ran on my 20. I've tried really hard to speed up the rebound because I'm always seeing people running it faster and it just makes my arms and wrists tired. I can ride a 20 minute downhill at speed and feel pretty fresh at the end.

 

[kamper11]

SOme findings, updates.

Took some things apart today -

• removed rear wheel
• removed shock
• removed upper link

cycled the rear end and crap - ifs it wasn't pretty dang tight - especially off the top and all that could hold it back was lower link bushings - ISSUE
Put line back on and shock yoke.
- still tight, not smooth at all
-shock yoke with shock installed did "drop" but felt more like the pre-clearance sanding I did. Was not smooth at all

Im feeling I should take bike to Ibis dealer and frankly demand new bushing based on just how tight and not smooth the rear triangle cycled.

Not sure what the force/pressures are they would consider normal, but I firmly believe the restricted movement is contributing to my issue.

Mezzer/Fork - don't get me started. Big group ride on an "epic" 36 miler this past weekend. ride STARTs at 11300 feet above sea level and you climb from there - yep Monarch Crest. Great ride, but not when the bike rides like a clapped out hardtail... fork gave up maybe 100 mm of travel. It does go to shop tomorrow. They contemplated doing it night prior, but with no Manitou experience in recent years - they asked if I felt fine to ride. I told em no prob.

I even bled lowers, (no psssst) but did reset pressures mid ride while waiting for others to catch up. Helped.

Good news is that I was overall 2nd fastest in group and per stravas top 2 even 1 in the long, rocky Rooty, blown out extended DH sections... my hands and fingers cramped because I really had no good suspension compliance and especially in fork - but I basically rode it out as much as I could... I will solve it

 

[sendsome]

So you rode your bike 370 miles in one week? Or you cracked it the first week and are still riding it while cracked?

Rode 110 miles in one week. Still riding that cracked frame, discussion still ongoing with Ibis.

 

[TanMan]

SOme findings, updates.

Took some things apart today -

• removed rear wheel
• removed shock
• removed upper link

cycled the rear end and crap - ifs it wasn't pretty dang tight - especially off the top and all that could hold it back was lower link bushings - ISSUE
Put line back on and shock yoke.
- still tight, not smooth at all
-shock yoke with shock installed did "drop" but felt more like the pre-clearance sanding I did. Was not smooth at all

Im feeling I should take bike to Ibis dealer and frankly demand new bushing based on just how tight and not smooth the rear triangle cycled.

Not sure what the force/pressures are they would consider normal, but I firmly believe the restricted movement is contributing to my issue.

Mezzer/Fork - don't get me started. Big group ride on an "epic" 36 miler this past weekend. ride STARTs at 11300 feet above sea level and you climb from there - yep Monarch Crest. Great ride, but not when the bike rides like a clapped out hardtail... fork gave up maybe 100 mm of travel. It does go to shop tomorrow. They contemplated doing it night prior, but with no Manitou experience in recent years - they asked if I felt fine to ride. I told em no prob.

I even bled lowers, (no psssst) but did reset pressures mid ride while waiting for others to catch up. Helped.

Good news is that I was overall 2nd fastest in group and per stravas top 2 even 1 in the long, rocky Rooty, blown out extended DH sections... my hands and fingers cramped because I really had no good suspension compliance and especially in fork - but I basically rode it out as much as I could... I will solve it

Ooof! I haven't done my lower bushings yet. Can't imagine mine will be any smoother. Been a spate of heat wave of late and the bike shed is just too hot to work out of. Will definitely be a maintenance item come October when the Jade X comes off for service.

Meanwhile, the Mo' suffered a minor spill this weekend. Thankfully, the dropper lever was the only casualty. Anyone else swapped out their flimsy Bike Yoke lever for something else?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GiddyHitch]

I’ve been using a Wolftooth Remote light action lever with the Bike Yoke on my Ripmo. I think that i prefer the BY remote on my Ripley though, purely for the shape and texture where my thumb actuates it.

 

[bullit43]

Same here. After throwing a bunch of carbon upgrades at the AF, the frame was the next logical choice and I liked the color and lines better not to mention the ability to fit a full sized water bottle. Seems like it handles a little better and is definitely quieter.

Dissector in the rear is money - awesome amounts of grip and rolls surprisingly well. Assegai up front pairs nicely.

Yes,it's strange how practically the same frame in another material can be so much more appealing, the ride it's different too,don't know how to explain, it tracks better and much more agile, probably because of the weight and lateral rigidity.