Available in Star Destroyer Grey and Bug Zapper Blue, the new Ripmo V2 has a one degree slacker head angle, improved lower link protection, updated dropper post cable routing, more progressive and coil compatible, and it's a smidge stiffer.
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Ibis Ripmo V2 Thread
Velorangutan
961 - 980 of 1,853 Posts
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I'm also in San Diego on 170mm GX cranks on a large Ripmo V2. I've had a few pedal strikes, more often when I'm riding with huge DMR flats, less so with XT trail clips. Shouldn't make a difference but maybe it's because if I know it's really chunky, I'll ride with flats. Anyway, I don't feel much of a difference pedaling (going up or coming down), coming from 175 mm on my v7 Heckler. Never had pedal strikes on the Heckler. Don't feel like I'm missing any gears with shorter crank arms.[/QUOTE]
Anyone in the US looking for a new in box Mezzer Pro at a good price? Finally received mine after months of backorder. I've since built up a custom coil fork so sadly I'm unloading the Mezzer. Figured I'd offer it up to the Ripmo guys first before listing to the general public.
Just listed my medium V2 frame on Pinkbike in case anyone is interested.
Can anyone guide me to what mounting hardware I'd need for a float x2 install? I see a few options on ibis here: Parts - Ibis Cycles Online Store
Pretty sure they are 25x8 and 15x8. That's going off memory from a little while ago.
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55 Posts
I bought these two.
https://store.ibiscycles.com/shock-reducer-hardware-fox-and-dvo-p154.aspx, 25mm version
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377 Posts
Posted this in the AF thread but in case anyone here is interested I have a large v2 GX build up for sale 
.
.Has anyone run a Kitsuma shock on one of these? Cane creek says the Compression range would be just fine but have heard at least one person say the shock is way over damped for the ripmo.
Also, if anyone has a siz L frame for sale, shoot me a PM!
Also, if anyone has a siz L frame for sale, shoot me a PM!
Ibis quality, warranty and the nitty gritty
Need to went a bit - letting my thoughts about the Ripmo out
Has anyone else had problems with their Ripmo v2 frame? I cracked my size Large in one week and now Ibis won't put it on their warranty. Cracked while riding, nothing extraordinary, you know just riding along and all that. I suspect a stray rock hit the downtube near the bottom bracket. There are scuffs on the downtube protector and the paint has started to chip below the protector. The spot sounds hollow when knocking it, compared to the frame elsewhere.
![1946491]( "1946491")
Ibis claims that that because this is an impact it is not covered by warranty. This might be true but I think the frame should be able to handle a few stray rocks. So if this is normal, and thus not a warranty case, then the quality or design is bad in my opinnion. What does the community here think?
There is a crash replacement sceme, but I have yet to hear what the cost for a new front end will be.
Other issues
I've also lost the metallic plate chain slap beneath the chain stay, came loose in the same time period. Doesn't improve my thought on Ibis quality... I've now added a bit of an old inner tube wrapped around that spot on the chainstay to protect the rear triangle and to quiet the bike down from the chain slap.
Talking about noise, how have you remedied the cable rattle on this frame? It's wild how much noise those make! I used some electric tape and zip ties to secure the cables at their ports.
Specs
I have the 2021 spec with SLX build kit, inculdes Fox Factory 36 and X2. Ibis recommended settings are a good start generally, but the fork in my case needs more high and low speed compression damping or/and less sag (more pressure) than recommended.
Looks like the 2022 model will have the burlier Fox 38, Ibis EWS team uses that one. Interesting to see what lenght the fork will be. Personally I wouldn't mind a 170mm fork and a slightly slacker head angle, then you would be able to ride with less sag in the rear for the same sag% in the front and avoid some of those pedal strikes and have it set up for some steeper trails.
My ride on our Instagram page
Pedal strikes and those cranks though. Why spec 175mm cranks? I keep hitting them constantly. Need to order 165 or 170 ones. Other wise the spec is solid. Sometimes I'd like to have more power from the brakes though. Otherwise the groupset works well. I had to adjust the chain lenght (cut one link out in my case) to get smooth shifts all the way through. Shimano's instructions for measuring the chain are good but not fool proof I guess, haha.
Loving the Bike Yoke Revive dropper, it is an absolute treat!
Linkage bushings and bearings
Has anyone done a full linkage service yet? I was excited about the bushings and waited for care free miles, but somehow I missed the fact that the upper link has 4 small ballbearings in it. I was so looking forward not needing to take care of linkage bearings but one of those had already started to bind. I've only done 370miles (600km) on mine. Cleaned and re greased the busings already (not needed at this point really) and tried to resurrect that one bearing by wiping the old grease out and sticking fresh grease in beneth the dust seals. I'll have to keep an eye on those, sigh.
by ESF , on Flickr
Sorry for this messy post - just needed to get theese thoughts out of my head - I'm sure many of these topics have been discussed here earlier, I need to start reading through this thread. All and any replies are welcome!
by ESF , on Flickr
Need to went a bit - letting my thoughts about the Ripmo out
Has anyone else had problems with their Ripmo v2 frame? I cracked my size Large in one week and now Ibis won't put it on their warranty. Cracked while riding, nothing extraordinary, you know just riding along and all that. I suspect a stray rock hit the downtube near the bottom bracket. There are scuffs on the downtube protector and the paint has started to chip below the protector. The spot sounds hollow when knocking it, compared to the frame elsewhere.
Ibis claims that that because this is an impact it is not covered by warranty. This might be true but I think the frame should be able to handle a few stray rocks. So if this is normal, and thus not a warranty case, then the quality or design is bad in my opinnion. What does the community here think?
There is a crash replacement sceme, but I have yet to hear what the cost for a new front end will be.
Other issues
I've also lost the metallic plate chain slap beneath the chain stay, came loose in the same time period. Doesn't improve my thought on Ibis quality... I've now added a bit of an old inner tube wrapped around that spot on the chainstay to protect the rear triangle and to quiet the bike down from the chain slap.
Talking about noise, how have you remedied the cable rattle on this frame? It's wild how much noise those make! I used some electric tape and zip ties to secure the cables at their ports.
Specs
I have the 2021 spec with SLX build kit, inculdes Fox Factory 36 and X2. Ibis recommended settings are a good start generally, but the fork in my case needs more high and low speed compression damping or/and less sag (more pressure) than recommended.
Looks like the 2022 model will have the burlier Fox 38, Ibis EWS team uses that one. Interesting to see what lenght the fork will be. Personally I wouldn't mind a 170mm fork and a slightly slacker head angle, then you would be able to ride with less sag in the rear for the same sag% in the front and avoid some of those pedal strikes and have it set up for some steeper trails.
My ride on our Instagram page
Pedal strikes and those cranks though. Why spec 175mm cranks? I keep hitting them constantly. Need to order 165 or 170 ones. Other wise the spec is solid. Sometimes I'd like to have more power from the brakes though. Otherwise the groupset works well. I had to adjust the chain lenght (cut one link out in my case) to get smooth shifts all the way through. Shimano's instructions for measuring the chain are good but not fool proof I guess, haha.
Loving the Bike Yoke Revive dropper, it is an absolute treat!
Linkage bushings and bearings
Has anyone done a full linkage service yet? I was excited about the bushings and waited for care free miles, but somehow I missed the fact that the upper link has 4 small ballbearings in it. I was so looking forward not needing to take care of linkage bearings but one of those had already started to bind. I've only done 370miles (600km) on mine. Cleaned and re greased the busings already (not needed at this point really) and tried to resurrect that one bearing by wiping the old grease out and sticking fresh grease in beneth the dust seals. I'll have to keep an eye on those, sigh.
by ESF , on FlickrSorry for this messy post
- just needed to get theese thoughts out of my head - I'm sure many of these topics have been discussed here earlier, I need to start reading through this thread. All and any replies are welcome!by ESF , on FlickrHaving worked with Ibis warranty fairly extensively in a shop setting, I would rank them above Trek but below Santa Cruz. Trek makes you jump through lots of procedural hoops before anything gets done and usually require you to send in the part/frame in question to start the warranty process. Even parts/frames approved for warranty usually take weeks or months to replace. More often than not, they offer the customer a fairly weak discount on a new bike, say 20% off. Santa Cruz barely asks for anything before they send out a replacement part/frame and a call tag for the old one. Usually the whole procedure is one week or less. Ibis is in the middle, they specify a lot of things as "impact related" but will usually work with you some to find a compromise and are pretty responsive.Ibis quality, warranty and the nitty gritty
Need to went a bit - letting my thoughts about the Ripmo out
Has anyone else had problems with their Ripmo v2 frame? I cracked my size Large in one week and now Ibis won't put it on their warranty. Cracked while riding, nothing extraordinary, you know just riding along and all that. I suspect a stray rock hit the downtube near the bottom bracket. There are scuffs on the downtube protector and the paint has started to chip below the protector. The spot sounds hollow when knocking it, compared to the frame elsewhere.
View attachment 1946491
Ibis claims that that because this is an impact it is not covered by warranty. This might be true but I think the frame should be able to handle a few stray rocks. So if this is normal, and thus not a warranty case, then the quality or design is bad in my opinnion. What does the community here think?
There is a crash replacement sceme, but I have yet to hear what the cost for a new front end will be.
Other issues
I've also lost the metallic plate chain slap beneath the chain stay, came loose in the same time period. Doesn't improve my thought on Ibis quality... I've now added a bit of an old inner tube wrapped around that spot on the chainstay to protect the rear triangle and to quiet the bike down from the chain slap.
Talking about noise, how have you remedied the cable rattle on this frame? It's wild how much noise those make! I used some electric tape and zip ties to secure the cables at their ports.
Specs
I have the 2021 spec with SLX build kit, inculdes Fox Factory 36 and X2. Ibis recommended settings are a good start generally, but the fork in my case needs more high and low speed compression damping or/and less sag (more pressure) than recommended.
Looks like the 2022 model will have the burlier Fox 38, Ibis EWS team uses that one. Interesting to see what lenght the fork will be. Personally I wouldn't mind a 170mm fork and a slightly slacker head angle, then you would be able to ride with less sag in the rear for the same sag% in the front and avoid some of those pedal strikes and have it set up for some steeper trails.
My ride on our Instagram page
Pedal strikes and those cranks though. Why spec 175mm cranks? I keep hitting them constantly. Need to order 165 or 170 ones. Other wise the spec is solid. Sometimes I'd like to have more power from the brakes though. Otherwise the groupset works well. I had to adjust the chain lenght (cut one link out in my case) to get smooth shifts all the way through. Shimano's instructions for measuring the chain are good but not fool proof I guess, haha.
Loving the Bike Yoke Revive dropper, it is an absolute treat!
Linkage bushings and bearings
Has anyone done a full linkage service yet? I was excited about the bushings and waited for care free miles, but somehow I missed the fact that the upper link has 4 small ballbearings in it. I was so looking forward not needing to take care of linkage bearings but one of those had already started to bind. I've only done 370miles (600km) on mine. Cleaned and re greased the busings already (not needed at this point really) and tried to resurrect that one bearing by wiping the old grease out and sticking fresh grease in beneth the dust seals. I'll have to keep an eye on those, sigh.
Sorry for this messy post
I lost the silver plate on my Ripley right away and my factory chainstay protector soon after. I replaced it with Mastic tape cut and heated to fit. Result looked factory and made things a lot quieter.
Ibis does not match the quality and overbuilt philosophy or warranty of Santa Cruz but in exchange you get light weight, better suspension (IMO) and in the past, a cheaper price though they are closer to even now. You just have to decide if the trade off is worth it.
Thanks Rusty for sharing, good to have your insight. The SC Megatower geo is nearly identical to the Ripmo, would consider as a very good option. Light weight is nice, but would have preferred some thicker walls in this case.
What's your remedy for the cable rattle?
Never had rattle issues with my Ridley or v1 ripmo but maybe try to make the hose/housing fit tighter with a thin wrap of electrical tape or heat shrink?
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1,148 Posts
Man, I tend to agree with this. Read some cracked Ibis carbon posts on MTBR and they've been denied warranty.. for various reasons of course and every situation is different. My own experience was when I had to deal with a semi seized bolt when removing the upper link in my previous AF frame. This is a well documented issue on the AF forum. Ibis' response was "if you are worried about it, buy a new set of bolts". The problem
is likely due to a rear or front triangle not being quite aligned from factory. Granted my issue wasn't as bad as some of the other AF owners whose front and rear alignment is so bad that the clevis actually rubs a little on the seat stay- anyway I digress but that's another quality aspect. The bolts were cheap so I didn't make a fuss with them and the new ones thread back on without much issues.
On the V2, some areas of paint quality could be improved, I.e around the headset area. I used to own a Santa Cruz so Ibis' paint quality doesn't compare. The upper link is only one of your worries. Our mate OZibis rightly pointed out why so many people are having setup issues on their rear shock- it's the stiff bushings from new. Ibis moved from full bearings setup to bushings circa 2016. I still have a HD3 with full bearings setup in the pivots and the swingarm action is night and day compared to my Ripmo. Remove your shock and exercise the rear triangle up and down and you will notice how stiff it is. Push the rear triangle to its full travel and let go… you will notice the rear does not come down on its own weight. Anyway if you want a fix, search his name in this page and you will find some really good detailed how-tos.
On noise and rattles, they don't bother me as much as they used to as my i9 hubs drowns those out [emoji16]It's all down to maintenance though; rattles, squeals and noise can come from anywhere and at anytime.. I'm sure Santa Cruz bikes are not immune. Typically it's the saddle rail or a dirty pulley wheel on my SLX derailuer that once cleaned and lubed, goes away. The cable exits, I basically tried several methods… the one trick that worked for me is good old electrical tape, you can control the thickness and stuff it into the exit ports without marring the paint.
Pros and cons. No bike is perfect but Ibis bikes are damn close!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pneumatic plastic airline. Over here at least you can get it from Enzed or Pirtek which are places that do hydraulic hoses and fittings. I just got the right size and cut a piece a piece about 20mm long and then cut it down one side long ways and wrapped it around the cable then fed it into the entry points. It didn't eliminate the rattle totally but it reduced it by probably 75-80%. I run an Onyx Vesper on my bike and overall it's a pretty quiet ride. There is some noise but I think having a silent hub makes you more aware of other noises.
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433 Posts
Ya, I was running a Kitsuma Air on my Rip. Let me just say that I'm a big CC fan cuz I'm big and they've been reliable. I have a DBA on my HD5 that's great. I have a Kitsuma Air on my shorter travel 29er that I also like. But, I could not get the Kitsuma and RIP to get along as much I'd like. I even emailed CC for advice, which I found wasn't very helpful. So I sent in my Topaz to DVO for a custom tune not too long ago. (DVO custom tune is cheap FYI)
Unfortunately, only got a couple of rides on the new shock before my BB took a dump and I sent it in for warranty, which was way too long ago. I had very low expectations with the DVO tune. Kinda prefer a very tunable shock, but I was actually pretty impressed on those 2 rides. It's lighter too.
I'll mention one last thing. I bought a ShockWiz and it tells me on all my bikes to lower the HSC and LSC. I assumed it was just because I was riding Ibis frames, but when I told this local custom tuner this, he said it was same with a lot of folks, and not just Ibis bikes.
Good feedback, I've had a DB inline on two of my bikes and I have a Helm MKII That I'd run on the Ripmo if I could ever find a frame!
I emailed CC and they sent me a leverage Chart for the ripmo and assured me the Kitsuma has enough compression adjustment to work well with the Ripmo. Are you a lighter guy? I'm heavier at 200lbs before gear so maybe a little more compression wouldn't be as much of an issue for me?
I emailed CC and they sent me a leverage Chart for the ripmo and assured me the Kitsuma has enough compression adjustment to work well with the Ripmo. Are you a lighter guy? I'm heavier at 200lbs before gear so maybe a little more compression wouldn't be as much of an issue for me?
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433 Posts
Let me just say I'm a bit heavier than you, which is why I've liked CC shocks so much, both cuz of reliability, as well as how tunable they are.
Kinda funny that when I emailed CC, they told me to run spacers and drop psi down. It sucked. When I told this to the tuner at DVO, he said never run spacers if you're a big dude. Ramps up too fast at end of stroke. So when the Topaz was being tuned, I took spacers out of Kitsuma and got it pretty close to acceptable. Still considering having the local tuner play with the Kitsuma a bit to see if it can be better, but tbd. Need my BB back first tho! And less smoke in the air so I can ride!
Thanks again. I've never run a volume reducer in a CC shock though I have to nice effect with RS and Fox stuff. Never heard for heavier riders to stay away from volume spacers all together.
Pointed post about AF vs V2.
I like a few others moved to a V2 from an AF. Lots to like about. a BZB v2 but here's my comparison and honestly a peeve
V2 is a smoother, quieter, quicker/flickier side to side ride. A certainly more refined version of the AF. Looking back if I had to do it all over again... meh - not so sure. Listen - I get what you'll read here - that Im complaining for having one of the nicest all rounders in the bike industry. Really Im not but just saying - would likely be spot on happy w the AF now that I have time to reflect and plenty of rides under my belt.
Which brings me to the confusing part... rear suspension feel/ride.
My AF w Topaz was brilliant. Wide sweet spot, and one of the best air shock rides I've ever had - even to this day. V2 - same shock, setup the same and absolute crap. Still crap - keep trying and even sent to DVO for "warranty". Got it back bolted her up and crap. Harsh, cant use full travel without numerous tradeoffs etc... I ran the AF/Topaz nearly wide open and it worked so well and was so compliant. V2 w same setup and Im getting thrown about and just a harsh ride. Start to slow the rebound and the bike is dead and more harsh. BTW - I have a near new, sent to DVO topaz for sale
Fortunately I bought I JadeX coil takeoff. Solved for most of the issues found trying to get as good a ride out of the V2, Yet - I'm still struggling to find near the same DH capability and ride quality I had developed/tuned w the AF and Topaz.
The AF/Topaz had a pretty wide window where it felt good to great all the time. 27-35% sag and it worked great. No complaints really. V2/Topaz - never came close. Even w the coil the window and rides where I've been Oh yeah - there it is, at best 1 in 10.
I've spent a lot of time being very persistent in setup. Used the bracketing method etc... I've clearances the bushes very carefully (thanks Oz/Tan etc...), checked all the pivots. Frankly when wheel and shock off and simply cycling the triangle and shock yoke - I cant feel anything - its not tight, no notches/hitches etc - it moves very nicely IMO. Sorry to be all sour grapes but I'm a bit flummoxed at the situation and wishing I had my old bike back... Any thougths/ideas??
I like a few others moved to a V2 from an AF. Lots to like about. a BZB v2 but here's my comparison and honestly a peeve
V2 is a smoother, quieter, quicker/flickier side to side ride. A certainly more refined version of the AF. Looking back if I had to do it all over again... meh - not so sure. Listen - I get what you'll read here - that Im complaining for having one of the nicest all rounders in the bike industry. Really Im not but just saying - would likely be spot on happy w the AF now that I have time to reflect and plenty of rides under my belt.
Which brings me to the confusing part... rear suspension feel/ride.
My AF w Topaz was brilliant. Wide sweet spot, and one of the best air shock rides I've ever had - even to this day. V2 - same shock, setup the same and absolute crap. Still crap - keep trying and even sent to DVO for "warranty". Got it back bolted her up and crap. Harsh, cant use full travel without numerous tradeoffs etc... I ran the AF/Topaz nearly wide open and it worked so well and was so compliant. V2 w same setup and Im getting thrown about and just a harsh ride. Start to slow the rebound and the bike is dead and more harsh. BTW - I have a near new, sent to DVO topaz for sale
Fortunately I bought I JadeX coil takeoff. Solved for most of the issues found trying to get as good a ride out of the V2, Yet - I'm still struggling to find near the same DH capability and ride quality I had developed/tuned w the AF and Topaz.
The AF/Topaz had a pretty wide window where it felt good to great all the time. 27-35% sag and it worked great. No complaints really. V2/Topaz - never came close. Even w the coil the window and rides where I've been Oh yeah - there it is, at best 1 in 10.
I've spent a lot of time being very persistent in setup. Used the bracketing method etc... I've clearances the bushes very carefully (thanks Oz/Tan etc...), checked all the pivots. Frankly when wheel and shock off and simply cycling the triangle and shock yoke - I cant feel anything - its not tight, no notches/hitches etc - it moves very nicely IMO. Sorry to be all sour grapes but I'm a bit flummoxed at the situation and wishing I had my old bike back... Any thougths/ideas??
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433 Posts
Me neither, which surprised me. And same with RS stuff. I don't ride Fox anymore.
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