Available in Star Destroyer Grey and Bug Zapper Blue, the new Ripmo V2 has a one degree slacker head angle, improved lower link protection, updated dropper post cable routing, more progressive and coil compatible, and it's a smidge stiffer.
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Ibis Ripmo V2 Thread
Velorangutan
881 - 900 of 1,853 Posts
If you are running an ISCG05 bracket then you also need to run a 2mm spacer between the BB cup and ISCG bracket on the drive side. That should make everything line up perfectly. That's providing the BB is the same dimensionally as a SRAM DUB BB.
here to state this:
CLEARANCE THE BUSHINGS! Per OZIbis - who has recommended from soon after he got his and did it! They are so tight on the shock clevis. I had planned to do this weeks back and finally found some time. It really only takes about 25-30 mins but the difference in noticeable on the trail. You will be surprised how much smoother the travel initiation is and how much nicer this bike can ride.
This is an EZ fix anyone can do!!
Sorry it took so long OZ, Tan and others who have also done it.
CLEARANCE THE BUSHINGS! Per OZIbis - who has recommended from soon after he got his and did it! They are so tight on the shock clevis. I had planned to do this weeks back and finally found some time. It really only takes about 25-30 mins but the difference in noticeable on the trail. You will be surprised how much smoother the travel initiation is and how much nicer this bike can ride.
This is an EZ fix anyone can do!!
Sorry it took so long OZ, Tan and others who have also done it.
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1,148 Posts
Yea well. I'm still procrastinating on the bottom ones though. I'll probably get around to it when the Jade X comes off for servicing.
The top ones freaked me out when I realized how much material I was able to remove. But it's a lot smoother now for sure.
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All good it just matters that you did it. After getting in there you can see how a heap of load is getting transferred into shock shaft. I believe that's the reason why people are having issues scuffing the coating on the shafts. I know it's hard to bring yourself to do mods like this that are recommended because you are taking someones word for it that you don't even really know and making irreversible changes without replacing the bushes but it's SO worth it and I don't recommend things that I don't know for a fact are worthwhile and work without doing them myself first and testing the results.
Now do the lower link the same way, it makes a really nice difference as well you won't believe how much better the rear suspension works once you've done both and I won't even mention the shim stack on the Mezzer you already know my stand on this. Even if you have to sacrifice a ride or two to make it happen the feeling you'll get on every ride after that will more than make up for it.
Dood stop being so cautious. It's not like the bike is stuffed even if you get it wrong, which you won't. You can replace the bushes for next to nothing. The bottom ones are SO tight as well. Like I said before mine had to be knocked out with a hammer and punch. You've got such an awesome bike get the thing dialled in and let it show its potential. Everyone is so wrapped up in playing with suspension and chasing plushness and trying different and progressive springs etc yet you will never get the best out of any suspension when the linkage is bound up and not working how it should. The poor rear end is so bound up it's like trying to play tennis in a straitjacket.
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1,148 Posts
Ok ok!
And agree this is such an awesome bike. I keep getting PRs riding this bike in a local segment. Just when I don't think I can do any better… PR again! And I'm not even that good of a rider!
[emoji16]I'm as happy as a bird with my setup. I'm convinced doing the bottom link will no doubt further add to that sublime feeling. Gotta sync up with the Jade servicing soon.
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That a boy. You won't regret it. Stop worrying there's plenty of materiel in the bottom bushes. They are much wider. You have to sand the bottom ones a lot more with more course paper initially. You would have a much bigger chance of stuffing the top ones and you did them without any issues.
I only had 600 grit paper that I used for the top - cant get toooooo much off so I just worked it until the inserts popped in w just the slightest amount of tension and could be pulled back out by finger vs requiring tools when I started the process. when I did the top the rear triangle felt pretty free to move when the top was dis assembled so I didn't move to the bottoms... thought id take 1 step, ride and see from there... I may have time to get to the bottom yet this week - but after the past 2 rides - not sure it "needs" it...
How do you do this? What does it involve? I read back a few pages but there's not really any clear instruction
I did mine today and then took the bike for a ride, big difference. Rear axle is good as a tool, roll the sandpaper around it and then you can both rotate and slide it through the bushings. Mine was so tight I had to use a rubber mallet to get the links out.
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117 Posts
5'6" riders - what size are you riding?
I ordered it as soon as it opened for pre-orders. Current ship ETA is July 7th, pushed back from the original June 29th date. I'll be sure to report back once it's tested! Caveat is that the test will be done with my Storia that's tuned for the link's spring curve (which currently feels all wrong on the stock link).
A little bummed that it doesn't add any travel, but the increased progression will be real nice for coils.
Yeah some extra mm would be nice. Curious about your impressions when you get it. Also running a Storia
Although not tried it on my V2 yet as the shock has been on service and also got the tune changed and I got my V2 a couple of weeks ago. Ran it on a V1 before with a MRP progressive spring.
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63 Posts
I'm 5'7" and I'm on a medium, but it largely comes down to preference.
Alex Bogusky and Lee McCormack are doing some interesting research in bike fitting. They would almost certainly recommend a small for you.
But there's more to mountain biking than just jumping off of everything. How important to you is climbing comfort, stability at speed, "flickability", etc.? Also, where do you ride, how long are your rides, how gnarly are the trails, etc.?
Ultimately you would likely be happy on either a small or a medium. Riser vs. flat bars, 30mm vs 50mm stems, and moving the handlebar around on the steerer tube should allow you to tune either size to your liking.
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4,881 Posts
I don't know your specific answer but I have a V4 Ripley, HD5 and now a Mojo 4. A 32T chainring, especially an oval one, gets crazy close to the chainstay on all of them but I've had no issues because of it.
I'm currently building up a v2 and having read a few reviews which mention the cable/hose rattle at the ports, I'm interested what if anything people have done to remedy this? I'm wondering if anyone has tried the generic Jagwire rubber frame plugs like these Jagwire Frame Plugs
881 - 900 of 1,853 Posts
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