[cesar74]

I have the Fox DHX2 with a cane creek progressive coil that I had in my yeti SB 130 and I moved it to the ripmo and I am really happy with this shock. One of my friends have a Ripmo V1 and he runs the EXT shock because this shock is less progressive that any other shock. My friend is also really happy with his Ripmo and EXT shock. I think any coil shock would be good in the ripmo if your are a 190# or bigger. I am 210# my friend is 230#.

 

[NWfreeride]

I have the Fox DHX2 with a cane creek progressive coil that I had in my yeti SB 130 and I moved it to the ripmo and I am really happy with this shock. One of my friends have a Ripmo V1 and he runs the EXT shock because this shock is less progressive that any other shock. My friend is also really happy with his Ripmo and EXT shock. I think any coil shock would be good in the ripmo if your are a 190# or bigger. I am 210# my friend is 230#.

What model year fox is your friend running on his Ripmo? I was told the DHX2 wouldn't fit the frame.

 

[KennyWatson]

ozibis - once again "splaining" the goodness of good suspension bits. Your point about the rear end causing the Ripmo to "decelerate" in repeated choppy/square edge bits - spot on. My suspension guy coined it a "hitchy" feeling - like it starts to tug at the rear and indeed slow down. I've felt it and its the only knock I have on the Ripmo. It was the reason I sold my previous bike which is a very similar rear suspension design. Now you go and make me not only want to buy the V2 (for other reasons you've described in the AF forum) but a new coil as well. And here I was just gonna replace the Ripmo w something "else"... I gotta check in on a EXT in the USA... I was thinking about the Cane Creek IL Coil... it likely cheaper but, but I know some like it on this bike these days as well as its light and tunable

Always appreciate your perspective and ability to describe the "feel" - rock on mate!

I've had an AF for a little over a year now and have played with suspension on it quite a bit.

I really find the bike needs 32-34% sag in the rear. This is DVOs recommendation and has been commented on by some of the more obscure but more technically oriented review sites as well.

I really dislike the suspension with 30% or less sag, hangs up, rides too tall, etc.

I've found though that to keep pedal strikes under control with the increased sag, relatively firm compression low speed compression, lots of volume spacers and 165mm cranks are a necessity. It might be tougher to replicate with a coil, or with the increased mid stroke support maybe not. I changed from DVO to rock shox (super deluxe ultimate air and lyrik) a couple months back and it has been awesome for me. Mainly due to more compression adjustment in the rear.

 

[k1creeker]

I just got my Ripmo v2, and I saw some other posts about people saying the rear thru axle was specced wrong... Is this what others? Anyone contact ibis on it because I can't imagine they are just doing this constantly on accident? (mying was from BackCountry). Everythings setup right as far as I can tell... just doesn't go all the way through when the wheels on. I would have to break stuff to put enough torque on it to move it any further lol.

It seems fine... but idk weird. View attachment 1908959

My axle inserts about as deep as yours. I believe this is as designed/intended. Meaning, not flush with the end of the carbon.
My minor "issue" is that when inserting the axle, it feels like the dropouts on either side aren't perfectly aligned, making it harder to thread the bolt through as soon as the threads engage. It just doesn't have that "swiss watch" feel that my Pivot 429 does when screwing in the rear axle bolt.

 

[OzIbis]

I'm currently on a V2 Ripmo with a Push ElevenSix. This shock is beautifully made and very adjustable, but to be honest, I'm not sure this shock suits our frames well based on my recent experience. I've had this shock on a few horst-link bikes (Transition Patrol) and felt like it was much more impressive than it is on my Ripmo. I was expecting that traction-rich ride that I've had from other Push applications, and I'm just not there yet and it feels overdamped even when backing out HSC/LSC. I'm hoping Push can help me dial things in.

This may also be a testament to the tune on the DPX2 that came with the Ripmo, which I feel performs very, very well for an air shock with limited tuning capabilities. Given the weight penalty of a coil, I'm back to riding the DPX2 for now.

For what it's worth, having 2 separate HSC/LSC circuits is definitely a great feature of the Push shock, but given how well these bikes pedal it's probably not as big of a benefit compared to bikes with lesser kinematics. I'd trade that extra circuit for HS/LS rebound and a climb switch and wish the DHX2 fit the Ripmo...

I am interested to try the EXT if I can't get the Push sorted. I'll let this board know how it goes!

I'm 73kg or 160lb ready to ride and I have a little compression dialled into my shock. I'm running 1 clock from open on the LSC and 2 clicks from open on the HSC. I think the DW LINK on the latest Ibis's requires a fairly light compression tune. Obviously EXT must spec a lighter tune than Push for this bike or you've transferred the same shock from another bike across. In your post I can't work out whether you are using the same shock or just saying you are using the same brand being the Push.
When I put the EXT into the AF originally I felt that I lost some turn because the rear end was compressing a little on corner entry and not giving quite enough support making the front a little slacker. I started playing with LSC and this fixed it straight away. I went to 2 from open then 4. 4 was too far 2 was good but 1 was all it needed to give me the turn back and still retain plushness. Every click makes a noticeable difference on the EXT. Then on drops I felt it was using its travel a tad too easily and the same on sharp hits. I played with the HSC same thing 2 clicks at a time. It's very obvious when you've gone too far. Back to 2 from open and all the plushness is back and a nice amount of control through the travel. On the 425lb spring I'm on 2 clicks from open on the rebound. All the settings are the same clicker wise on the 450lb spring except for one click slower on the rebound. What I'm getting at is I think the EXT has a fairly light compression tune when they tune for this bike. Especially considering at my weight I was wanting some more compression added which has been the case on my previous suspension. I'm super happy with my EXT. It works beautifully on this bike.
Lastly even before you start chasing suspension set up or changing components make sure your linkages are well lubed with a thick water resistant grease. It makes a pretty big difference is virtually free to do and if they are as tight as mine were you will never get the performance and feel you are after until that is sorted no matter how good your components are. It really should be the first thing everyone does. I've mentioned this in a previous post but I literally had to drive my bottom link out with a hammer and punch and the two clevis pivots at the top of the triangle were so tight the sleeves would move inside the bushes. The clevis was literally moving up and down on the outside of the sleeves rather than making the sleeves move in the bushes. That is a bad thing.

 

[pineneedles]

Can any New England riders weigh in on how this bike works on the tight/technical/twisty New England trails? I know it has been well received out West with bigger/flowier trails but have not heard enough from the East coast to convince me. I typically ride local trails with a half dozen downhill days a year thrown in at Thunder/Killington. I am looking for a one bike quiver that won't be a pig to ride on the local stuff but can handle occasional bigger terrain. I am about 200# and don't think the Ripley would cut it. I am coming off a 27.5 Trance (150F/140R), so I am already used to long-ish travel trail bike. The Ripmo has a 55mm longer wheelbase than my Trance, just don't want to buy a tank that I won't enjoy as a daily driver.

I'm not a New England rider, but I happened to enjoy this video last night of a Ripmo V2 on some excellent NE trails. Land of a thousand rock rolls (and they call it Vietnam)?? 50 STATE SHRED: MASSACHUSETTS

 

[jpfurn]

I also have felt my V2's rear get hung up or "hitchy". I have found it only happens when running to much sag. Remember Ibis measures sag at the rear tire so if you are setting up using shock stroke you are most likely running more then recommended.

 

[OzIbis]

I also have felt my V2's rear get hung up or "hitchy". I have found it only happens when running to much sag. Remember Ibis measures sag at the rear tire so if you are setting up using shock stroke you are most likely running more then recommended.

I know that's what they say in the set up guide but that means then at full rear wheel travel then you would be only using 50.9mm of shock shaft travel on a 55mm travel shock so you would never feel the shock bottom out. Either that or when the shock bottoms out which it can and does then the bike has more than 147mm travel.
So based on that theory to bottom out the 55mm travel shock the rear wheel has to travel 159mm in round figures.

 

[jpfurn]

I know that's what they say in the set up guide but that means then at full rear wheel travel then you would be only using 50.9mm of shock shaft travel on a 55mm travel shock so you would never feel the shock bottom out. Either that or when the shock bottoms out which it can and does then the bike has more than 147mm travel.
So based on that theory to bottom out the 55mm travel shock the rear wheel has to travel 159mm in round figures.

It doesn't make much sense to me either, I had the same theory in my head as you do. After talking and emailing with ibis, Chuck him self assures me that setting up sag through the rear wheel is how they do it because of the different leverage ratios. If you have a chance reach out to them and maybe you can explain it to me more clearly, thanks!

 

[gluestick]

I'm not a New England rider, but I happened to enjoy this video last night of a Ripmo V2 on some excellent NE trails. Land of a thousand rock rolls (and they call it Vietnam)?? 50 STATE SHRED: MASSACHUSETTS

Thank you for the reply and share, great series- I was not aware it existed and will have to get caught up on his adventures. The Massachusetts and Connecticut segments look alot like my typical riding and he didn't seem to be held back by the size of his bike!

 

[pineneedles]

Thank you for the reply and share, great series- I was not aware it existed and will have to get caught up on his adventures. The Massachusetts and Connecticut segments look alot like my typical riding and he didn't seem to be held back by the size of his bike!

Those trails look amazing! That was his number one ride after all 50 states. His channel is great if for watching while on a trainer. The Ripmo devours technical terrain and definitely gets me out of trouble regularly. The only time it is weird for me is when I'm riding really slow like 2 or 3 miles per hour. Then the slack head angle makes it a tad squirrely. It took me a couple of rides and now I don't even notice that.

 

[michaelandk2]

My axle inserts about as deep as yours. I believe this is as designed/intended. Meaning, not flush with the end of the carbon.
My minor "issue" is that when inserting the axle, it feels like the dropouts on either side aren't perfectly aligned, making it harder to thread the bolt through as soon as the threads engage. It just doesn't have that "swiss watch" feel that my Pivot 429 does when screwing in the rear axle bolt.

Ahh cool, thanks. Just looks a little off, and wanted to make sure . Thought I saw someone say something about them speccing 142 thru axle instead of 148 on accident or something like that ¯\(ツ)/¯ .

 

[KennyWatson]

What does setting sag via rear wheel travel as opposed to via shock travel mean in practical terms and how is it measured? Percentage of vertical axle travel? Percentage of axle travel against the total axle path? How do you measure it?

If the target is a specific amount of travel at the wheel, that still should translate to a specific amount of shock travel, whether in percent or in millimeters (I realize since the leverage ratio is not linear that shock % and wheel travel % won't necessarily match). The difference is that it seems a whole lot easier to measure via the shock oring. So what is being gained?

I guess you could put the bike on a workstand with the rear wheel touching the floor, then lift the rear wheel with no air in the shock until it is 30% of its way to full travel, and then note the o-ring position. But why wouldn't ibis just specify this oring position to begin with? Seems convoluted.

In my opinion having a process where you are measuring sag consistently so that you can make adjustments and understand the results is more important than the reference point itself because that's what makes your tuning changes valid.

Surprised by the comment regarding having too much sag causing hitching. I don't agree that high sag on its own would cause this. It sounds more like rebound too slow coupled with the increased sag. That is indeed not a great combo.

I have made so many changes and I always end up back with fast rebound, higher sag, firmer compression.

I guess all that can be said is keep an open mind and experiment and whatever sag measurement procedure you use, stick to it and be consistent.

 

[sfr4dr]

What does setting sag via rear wheel travel as opposed to via shock travel mean in practical terms and how is it measured? Percentage of vertical axle travel? Percentage of axle travel against the total axle path? How do you measure it?

If the target is a specific amount of travel at the wheel, that still should translate to a specific amount of shock travel, whether in percent or in millimeters (I realize since the leverage ratio is not linear that shock % and wheel travel % won't necessarily match). The difference is that it seems a whole lot easier to measure via the shock oring. So what is being gained?

I guess you could put the bike on a workstand with the rear wheel touching the floor, then lift the rear wheel with no air in the shock until it is 30% of its way to full travel, and then note the o-ring position. But why wouldn't ibis just specify this oring position to begin with? Seems convoluted.

In my opinion having a process where you are measuring sag consistently so that you can make adjustments and understand the results is more important than the reference point itself because that's what makes your tuning changes valid.

Surprised by the comment regarding having too much sag causing hitching. I don't agree that high sag on its own would cause this. It sounds more like rebound too slow coupled with the increased sag. That is indeed not a great combo.

I have made so many changes and I always end up back with fast rebound, higher sag, firmer compression.

I guess all that can be said is keep an open mind and experiment and whatever sag measurement procedure you use, stick to it and be consistent.

For sure. Ibis knows the kinematics of these frames, puts a sag number based on the shock in their manual, then I would never think to go looking to measure by the rear wheel. I would assume they've already done this. Rear wheel is a moto method of measuring sag, not with mtbs in the decades I've been riding and working in shops as a mechanic (ages ago). Personally, I put in the recommended pressure then tune by feel from there.

 

[OzIbis]

What does setting sag via rear wheel travel as opposed to via shock travel mean in practical terms and how is it measured? Percentage of vertical axle travel? Percentage of axle travel against the total axle path? How do you measure it?

If the target is a specific amount of travel at the wheel, that still should translate to a specific amount of shock travel, whether in percent or in millimeters (I realize since the leverage ratio is not linear that shock % and wheel travel % won't necessarily match). The difference is that it seems a whole lot easier to measure via the shock oring. So what is being gained?

I guess you could put the bike on a workstand with the rear wheel touching the floor, then lift the rear wheel with no air in the shock until it is 30% of its way to full travel, and then note the o-ring position. But why wouldn't ibis just specify this oring position to begin with? Seems convoluted.

In my opinion having a process where you are measuring sag consistently so that you can make adjustments and understand the results is more important than the reference point itself because that's what makes your tuning changes valid.

Surprised by the comment regarding having too much sag causing hitching. I don't agree that high sag on its own would cause this. It sounds more like rebound too slow coupled with the increased sag. That is indeed not a great combo.

I have made so many changes and I always end up back with fast rebound, higher sag, firmer compression.

I guess all that can be said is keep an open mind and experiment and whatever sag measurement procedure you use, stick to it and be consistent.

I agree it should be based on shaft travel irrespective of whether it's actually 30% of the shaft travel or not because that's something we can measure easily and accurately. It's very difficult to set sag based on wheel travel. Obviously the % of travel at different points through the range must vary. It would help greatly to know at what point it changes or to have a graph with mm shaft travel on one axis and % of sag on the other so you could just find the point where they intersect and you would have accurate reference of where you are in the range.
I have contacted Chuck (Scot) from Ibis to clarify some stuff for me. He is usually very good at replying so I assume when they are open again I will get some more info from him about what the go is. I will post here what I find out.
Also in my mind getting hung up with more sag is counterintuitive as you say. More sag is a softer set up so the rear wheel should get out of the way more easily coupled with a faster rebound set up, as you say, that should always accompany a softer set up should lead to less hang up. The feel I get riding the bike also backs this up.

 

[bikedrd]

I'm currently on a V2 Ripmo with a Push ElevenSix. This shock is beautifully made and very adjustable, but to be honest, I'm not sure this shock suits our frames well based on my recent experience.
...

I got the V2 with the new Push. Coming off a V1 with three different consecutive X2 that were each packed with air volume spacers. I've been on this since July. I don't have much to say other than it is absolutely perfect. From 100s of laps at the mess that is Northstar Bike Park, summer and fall regular riding at Lake Tahoe Area and Downieville, to Bootleg Canyon and now Tucson Chunk this week, it has been amazing. I've only felt bottom out once, off a very-big poorly-ridden drop. It is ridiculously smooth on the small embedded rocks when I'm "XC'ing" to the fun stuff (I like double black trails) and terrific everywhere else through its stroke. I think the orbital bearing is a great improvement too - pretty sure the clevis was destroying shocks on my V1 and the bearing addresses this.

I've wanted to come on here and say this forever, but really have had nothing to say since it works so well that I forget it.

@NWfreeride - you should contact Push! About the only thing I agree with is the lack of need for the second circuit. I wonder if you simply need a lighter spring. They were dead on with mine.

For the record, I got the 2021 Fox 36 grip2 with VVC up front, retrofitted with the Vorsprung Secus and it is wonderful as well.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

 

[OzIbis]

I got the V2 with the new Push. Coming off a V1 with three different consecutive X2 that were each packed with air volume spacers. I've been on this since July. I don't have much to say other than it is absolutely perfect. From 100s of laps at the mess that is Northstar Bike Park, summer and fall regular riding at Lake Tahoe Area and Downieville, to Bootleg Canyon and now Tucson Chunk this week, it has been amazing. I've only felt bottom out once, off a very-big poorly-ridden drop. It is ridiculously smooth on the small embedded rocks when I'm "XC'ing" to the fun stuff (I like double black trails) and terrific everywhere else through its stroke. I think the orbital bearing is a great improvement too - pretty sure the clevis was destroying shocks on my V1 and the bearing addresses this.

I've wanted to come on here and say this forever, but really have had nothing to say since it works so well that I forget it.

@NWfreeride - you should contact Push! About the only thing I agree with is the lack of need for the second circuit. I wonder if you simply need a lighter spring. They were dead on with mine.

For the record, I got the 2021 Fox 36 grip2 with VVC up front, retrofitted with the Vorsprung Secus and it is wonderful as well.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

[/QUOTE]
So for reference how have you set the sag on your bike. Shock shaft travel or using the set up numbers from Ibis ie 14mm=27.5% sag? What % sag are you running? What do you weigh and what spring are you using?

 

[OzIbis]

I tried a new product and I'm super impressed with it so far. It's Molten Speed Wax. I wanted something to lube the chain that didn't get gunky build up and have dirt stick to it and would keep the drivetrain clean. I also didn't want to have to stuff around with a dry lube and a wet lube I just wanted something I could use in any condition at any time. Just got back from a sloshy muddy ride and simply hosed the bike off and I'm so happy with the result. I can rub my fingers down the chain and they stay clean. Nothing stuck to it. It was WAY quieter during the whole ride and the wax is still on there. Last wet ride I did all I could hear was the constant crunching and grinding sound of mud going through my lovely new X01 drivetrain. It was doing my head in. Not this time. It's exactly what I've been looking for and does exactly what I wanted it to do. Here is a picture after the ride with nothing more than a hose off. I haven't cleaned or touched the chain in any way or cassette in any way. I'm wrapped.

 

[bikedrd]

So for reference how have you set the sag on your bike. Shock shaft travel or using the set up numbers from Ibis ie 14mm=27.5% sag? What % sag are you running? What do you weigh and what spring are you using?

Good question. I never measured sag; I just like it where I got it after a bit of preload. I'm 180 dressed to ride. I got a 475# spring.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

 

[FatMike1912]

I tried a new product and I'm super impressed with it so far. It's Molten Speed Wax. I wanted something to lube the chain that didn't get gunky build up and have dirt stick to it and would keep the drivetrain clean. I also didn't want to have to stuff around with a dry lube and a wet lube I just wanted something I could use in any condition at any time. Just got back from a sloshy muddy ride and simply hosed the bike off and I'm so happy with the result. I can rub my fingers down the chain and they stay clean. Nothing stuck to it. It was WAY quieter during the whole ride and the wax is still on there. Last wet ride I did all I could hear was the constant crunching and grinding sound of mud going through my lovely new X01 drivetrain. It was doing my head in. Not this time. It's exactly what I've been looking for and does exactly what I wanted it to do. Here is a picture after the ride with nothing more than a hose off. I haven't cleaned or touched the chain in any way or cassette in any way. I'm wrapped.

View attachment 1909464

I had a look on their website and man, that's an involved process for chain lube. I can only imagine what my wife would say if she caught me soaking my chain in our slow cooker full of wax.

I just use squirt wax lube. It does almost the same thing but it applies normally. Probably doesn't last as long but way less fuss. Drivetrain is equally clean and my hands don't get greasy....neither does my slow cooker