12.96kg as shown.

 

Hi folks
My X2 needs to be serviced again and I'm replacing it by a Jade X.
I weigh 200lbs. Which spring do I need?

 

You fall on the dividing line between 500 and 550 according to Ibis' Ripmo setup guide.

ps: Ibis has the 450 & 600lb versions for $300

 

Team - i need to switch out the front triangle in a Ripmo V2 carbon frame (due to crash-replacement), how much should i prepare to pay if I take it to a local bike shop, and any gotchas or hurdles I should prepare for? Any advice/suggestions will be very much appreciated.....

 

Not sure what a local bike shop would charge, but here are a couple videos highlighting the process.

 

Any advice for a new Jade X spring??

175lbs with gear. Bought a Jade X with the 500lb LS spring. Worked for me a couple months ago getting back into mtbing but now I'm hitting bigger stuff and bottoming out on drops.

Ride feels pretty good and only bottoming out on the bigger stuff now that I preloaded a bit more to 3 spins... Pressure at 190psi. Always have the switch open.

Should I get Valt progressive 500-610? Or 450 - 550?

I guess the heavier spring seems really high for my weight but if the 500 already feels good for most stuff I should just go higher. I read that accuracy of the stated weights vary so I guess I'm concerned it could feel really stiff.

Is tuning worth it once I get the heavier spring? Just starting to learn how to work on suspension but was wondering if anyone has played around with this coil much.

Thanks.

 

Just got mine - sub 32 lbs build. Super stoked and nice upgrade from my Bronson. Wanted this to be a heavy duty trail build, with less fork that the 38. 36 (instead of the 28), Oneup Chainguide, and O Chain, XTR brakes with 203s front/back.

 

When the X2 blows up you can save a couple hundred more grams with a float X

 

For sale 2022 Large Ibis Ripmo V2 Frameset - Star Destroyer Grey

Ad located in MTBR Classifieds, Frameset here: 2022 Large Ibis Ripmo V2

Please PM me for more information or additional photos

CDIDriver

 

Sold 6/01/2023

 

anyone know how tight I should tighten the "preload bolt" on the headset cap on a ripmo v2? I friggin can't seem to find this info anywhere I search, at least nothing specific to the Rimpo v2 headset torque specs, looks like the general rule is hand tighten or around 2nm torque? Again, as always thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

Keep tightening the preload bolt until the front wheel only just returns to centre by itself smoothly if you turn the handlebars side to side while the bike is hanging on a stand. It’s nut really an exact torque setting but it’s a lot more than 2nm. It’s probably closer to 15-20nm.

 

No way it's 15-20 Nm, you'll need to buy new headset bearnings if you torque to that level.

 

I said it’s not really an exact torque setting but it was more than 2nm. I didn’t tell him to tighten it to 15 or 20nm just trying to get across it was a fair bit more than 2nm. I probably exaggerated it more than I should have but the description I gave to get it about right works.

 

Thinking of trying the cascade link and am curious if anyone has recommendation as to what settings will likely need to change on my
Float X2 going from the stock link where its set up pretty well to the cascade link? I have the V2 with 38 factory fork and factory X2.

Just hoping someone with more technical suspension knowledge can help me out with a good starting point of what will likely be effected seeing wise.

Thanks

 

Ripmo V2 stock downtube protector removal?
I see a bolt, but how strong is the adhesive? is it 3M VHB? or is a heatgun required to loosen it? any tips?

Why I am asking....to replace the original protector with new longer V2S version. bike not in my possession. just planning ahead. TIA

 

I just installed the V2S protector on my V2 last week. The original protector didn't have any adhesive, just thin foam rubber lining. The 2 bolts were the only thing attaching it to the frame.

 

THANKS much maxbacon!
Did you install the V2S chainstay protector too? I know some trimming would be necessary but seems very possible. site shows it is incompatible with V2.

 

...

 

29 lbs club after mods. Original was the Medium size 2021 XT build. My goal was a lighter and more nimble build without changing the capabilities / ride characteristics too much of the original as I enjoy climbing on the bike as much as descending.

Mods / Changes to stock build:
Custom wheels: Ibis S35 carbon rims, DT Swiss 240 hubs, Berd spokes, XTR centerlock rotors
Race Face Era crank, with RF BB30 bottom bracket, wolf tooth elliptical chainring
Fun Zippa bash guard
WTB Silverado Carbon Saddle
Maxxis DHF / DHR tires
Ht Components T2 Titanium pedals

 

29 lbs club after mods. Original was the Medium size 2021 XT build. My goal was a lighter and more nimble build without changing the capabilities / ride characteristics too much of the original as I enjoy climbing on the bike as much as descending.

Mods / Changes to stock build:
Custom wheels: Ibis S35 carbon rims, DT Swiss 240 hubs, Berd spokes, XTR centerlock rotors
Race Face Era crank, with RF BB30 bottom bracket, wolf tooth elliptical chainring
Fun Zippa bash guard
WTB Silverado Carbon Saddle
Maxxis DHF / DHR tires
Ht Components T2 Titanium pedals

...tiphareth What length is your dropper post?

 

@Rusnak_322, I don't have the 170mm yet. but think stack on the AXS dropper would be the same for both 150 and 170 when slammed. I tested it out today with the 150 slammed, when I had my shock off and the seat, which is pushed all the way back has about 3/4 inch clearance to the tire. I need to go on some actual rides to see if the 150 is fine now that I have my shock on.

 

I'm going to be test riding a 2021 Ripmo V2 later this week. Planning to do a thorough checkover of the bike, but are there any specific issues I should be looking for? Any areas that have frequently been warrantied, or are common points of failure on this bike?

 

Look at the back of the seat tube, where the suspension short link is. Small rocks can fall there, and get smashed into the seat tube when the link moves. I have seen a bunch of Ripmos with damage there.

 

I wouldn't call them common points of failure of the Ripmo V2 but things I would check on ANY bike, especially carbon. You just want to check the frame over thoroughly as it's the main piece to the purchase. Check underneath the plastic protection piece on the downtube for any damage. It's just a padded piece of plastic and a hard hit can certainly damage any carbon frame. Sellers may try to hide it with a new piece to cover it up. Also Look for any gouges in the frame that go through to the carbon fiber or any cracks that you can feel with a fingernail. Just look it over closely. Check the rear triangle for any side to side play and smooth movement up and down. Listen for any grinding or clicking sounds as you move it through the motion and you may want to bring a shock pump and ask to remove the air from the rear shock to test this out. It's much easier to feel for this with little resistance vs having a friend bounce up and down on it while you try to listen for noises. Do the same for the headset and front fork... check for smoothness and function and anything that doesn't feel smooth. If the bars are carbon then also check them out closely as well. Wheels....check spoke tension, trueness and roundness or any cracks or dings. Drivetrain...check for smooth shifting gears, look for excess wear in the chain, cassette and front chainring as well as the cranks / bottom bracket. Give the cranks a good solid test by cranking on them during a test ride and bounce up and down, listing for creaking, etc. That's about it. Again, nothing specific to the Ripmo but just the usual stuff to look for but the frame would be the primary focus because if that has any issues, you'd best find them ahead of time. Good luck!

 

New suspension bits on the V2S. Very different feel from the DVO I had on previously. Onyx and Topaz were much more plush but the Fox stuff just wants to party and is lighter. I think I will dig the lighter Fox setup after some more tweaking. Really enjoyed the first ride today, so it’s only up from here.

 

I finally got a ride on my new Ext Storia. Holy smokes this shock craps on the X2 and new SDU coil. Soo buttery smooth and pedals well, and probably poppier than the x2.

 

Factory Sale 25% Off*
does it mean something new on horizon?

 

Does it? Probably. Something else to remember that these companies are spending millions on storage fees for bikes and they are trying to get rid of current stock so offset that cost. That being said I would gladly welcome a V3.

 

Replaced all the bushings and seals, and put a 170mm in the fork. She’s running smooth and I’m loving the slightly taller/slacker front end due to the 170 fork.

I replaced the bushings because I was getting a creaky noise that I thought was coming from the bike yoke revive. First I did a lower service in the seat post, but that didn’t fix it, so I contacted Ibis and they sent me the replacement bushings under warranty. Replaced all of those (pretty straightforward job with good videos online, thanks Ibis) but the creaking was still there. Ugh. So I removed the bike yoke and replaced it with this fox transfer post I had lying around. Creaking problem solved. I have never heard anything but good reports about the bike yoke but mine wasn’t great.

Enjoy the ride!


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Enjoy the ride!

How do you like the Float X on the Ripmo?

 

I love it! It’s perfect for the Ripmo, imo. I really like this bike set up as a “long” trail bike, and I think the supportive feel of the Float X works very well with this frame’s dynamics. I found the X2 that came on this bike to be a little too squishy, if that makes sense. When the X2 cavitated after about 3 months that gave the reason to switch. So glad I did. I’ve gone back and forth about whether the bike would benefit from a Fox 38 up front but ultimately I think the 36 is “good enough” and, again, for me anyway, setting up the bike to be a capable trial bike and not an enduro makes the most sense.

How do you like it? And, is that a 36 or 38 up front, and why did you choose the one over the other?


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I dig it. Bike has a Fox 36. It was originally set up with a DVO Onyx and a Jade X, and my thought was similar to you - drop some weight and bias towards trail bike end of the spectrum rather than enduro end. Hence the Float X and 36.

 

View attachment 2054896

I dig it. Bike has a Fox 36. It was originally set up with a DVO Onyx and a Jade X, and my thought was similar to you - drop some weight and bias towards trail bike end of the spectrum rather than enduro end. Hence the Float X and 36.

Looks great…Kashima ftw with that stem and gold decals on black frame!


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I swapped my '21 V2 for a V2S about a month ago because my drivetrain was on its second bike and getting to end of life and wanted to try out Transmission + sale... why not, right? Right after I got it and before I put the ride wrap on (I was out of time!) I went OTB into a barbed wire fence (5 stitches in my face, 8 in my arm 🤦) and scratched the paint on the top tube. Sigh.

My V2 was a DVO Topaz, and the new frame is an X2, and I am just having a bear of a time getting it dialed in... I was under the impression that folks really liked the X2, but now that I've started poking around it seems like a lot of folks are pretty disappointed in it.

My complaints/things I'm hoping to find some help working out:
1. It seems to lose air really quickly. Is this just a defective unit? If I check it after maybe two rides I'm losing maybe 20lbs.
2. Back end is harsh and super squirrely on chatter and small drops (like 4 inches - it feels like a hardtail).

I'm about 220 dressed to ride, and Ibis is saying put 288lbs in the shock, but that was awful... I was running compression/rebound pretty fast, so last ride I went and set every setting to Fox's recommendations as a new starting point, and put 275lbs in there... it still had issues.

I sped up the LSC first, then the HSC compression mid ride, and that helped some, but I'm still frankly disappointed in the performance of the bike - I absolutely loved my V2, and suspension wise, at least when it comes to small bumps, this feels like a downgrade. In loose chattery stuff the back end feels like it's bouncing all over the GD place and it's for sure slowing me down and scaring me.

Disclaimer: I've also been having some trouble with my left hand that is maybe making some of this feel worse than it is, but... not sure.

Fork is a 170mm Fox 38 that I had on the previous bike - I'm fairly happy there.

Current settings (clicks are from fully closed/slow, per Fox recommendations):
X2:
275lbs (I checked this after one ride and it was at 265, which at the end of that ride was harsh, so I went down to 260, but haven't given that a try yet)
LSR: 3
HSR: 2

LSC: 7 (recommended 4)
HSC: 7 (recommended 4)

Any thoughts? Should I sell the damn shock and get a coil? If so, what coil are folks into for this bike for someone my weight? I ride mostly SE Wyoming trail, but take several park trips every year. I'm not hugely concerned with bike weight, but I'd rather not ride an anvil where I can avoid it.

Footnote: I like Transmission quite a bit! I also think that Ibis addressed the things with the V2S that I saw as flaws w/ the V2 - better chainstay protection, no more the little chainsuck metal piece that I already had to replace twice. I think they moved the water bottle mounts up a fraction of an inch, because the same cage gives me just enough clearance to not contact the frame w/ the bottom of the bottle. Also - if you do this switch, note that the rear brake mounts are now 180 instead of 160. I destroyed a set of brake pads figuring that one out and not paying enough attention.

Here's a pic - seatpost since this pic is now a OneUp at 230mm, which is niiiice

 

Any thoughts? Should I sell the damn shock and get a coil? If so, what coil are folks into for this bike for someone my weight? I ride mostly SE Wyoming trail, but take several park trips every year. I'm not hugely concerned with bike weight, but I'd rather not ride an anvil where I can avoid it.

I didn't get along with the X2 as well. The Topaz was easier to get along with even if it didn't have all the adjustments. The Bomber Air or the Float X seem like they would be good as well.

Since I've moved onto more progressive bikes, I couldn't imagine running a coil on the Ripmo. With the X2, mine was either stuffed with spacers and feeling awful, or I was blowing through the travel. Maybe something with an HBO would be nice, but I'd say just lean into the Ripmo being a responsive trail bike.

 

@LookerBob
DVO is still running their 30% off sale. Topaz will feel great on the V2S as well.
Ibis has the Gen1 Topaz in 210x55 for $170. And Jade X coil for $300.