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thanks for replying, yeah, it seems to constantly require tweaking, I'm not riding on DH trails with huge jumps, just your average technical trails, it seems like after taking it in, getting it tweaked back to not skipping/jumping/grinding sounds, i go for 2-3 rides and then its back (either it skips on the middle cogs, or makes grinding feeling/sounds).i make sure to turn on the clutch when i ride, and turn it off when its back in the garage. Yeah, this bike is not a newbie friendly bike at all, but i suppose the silver lining is I'm learning a ton about the components, unfortunately its time i'd rather spend doing other things.
What you are describing is a set up issue, not the component. What chain are you using and is is sized correctly? Is the cassette installed correctly/are the spacers correct between the cogs on the cassette? What about bb spacer(s)? Housing/cable installed correctly and not binding? High/low/b settings? These are just a few things, but a shop should know this.
 
What you are describing is a set up issue, not the component. What chain are you using and is is sized correctly? Is the cassette installed correctly/are the spacers correct between the cogs on the cassette? What about bb spacer(s)? Housing/cable installed correctly and not binding? High/low/b settings? These are just a few things, but a shop should know this.
yeah, probably, i wouldn't know, again im a newbie and i ordered this bike from an ibis online dealer since there aren't any local ibis selling shops nearby. There really should be a "check list" or a to do list when bikes arrive to customers, i don't think ill order online again. Just venting, and hopefully giving warning to other newbies thinking about purchasing a hi end bike thru online dealers.
 
yeah, probably, i wouldn't know, again im a newbie and i ordered this bike from an ibis online dealer since there aren't any local ibis selling shops nearby. There really should be a "check list" or a to do list when bikes arrive to customers, i don't think ill order online again. Just venting, and hopefully giving warning to other newbies thinking about purchasing a hi end bike thru online dealers.
Curious, did you reach out to the online dealer? What was their response?

Regardless of one's knowledge, it's good to reach out. There may be one person out there with a similar experience that can help address your issues.

As for buying online, it may be a crapshoot. It boils down to experienced mechanics and/or those who care about what they are doing. I just bought a bike from a reputable dealer and the build was sub par. I tore the entire bike down and re-built swapping parts and this is what I found: the hanger was not properly installed, rd limits were not set, brake hoses were trimmed which should not have been done until the bike was sold and fitted, brakes needed bled, bars were not square to the fork, stem bolts not properly installed and bolts not torqued for the front brake rotor. I let both Ibis and the dealer know.

Best of luck.
 
Curious, did you reach out to the online dealer? What was their response?

Regardless of one's knowledge, it's good to reach out. There may be one person out there with a similar experience that can help address your issues.

As for buying online, it may be a crapshoot. It boils down to experienced mechanics and/or those who care about what they are doing. I just bought a bike from a reputable dealer and the build was sub par. I tore the entire bike down and re-built swapping parts and this is what I found: the hanger was not properly installed, rd limits were not set, brake hoses were trimmed which should not have been done until the bike was sold and fitted, brakes needed bled, bars were not square to the fork, stem bolts not properly installed and bolts not torqued for the front brake rotor. I let both Ibis and the dealer know.

Best of luck.
haha holy crxp, that's no bueno at all... no ive contacted the dealer and their response was "take it in to local shop".... yeah i feel like i should maybe have it rebuilt like u did, probably find a few other things i wouldn't know to check for
 
Anyone having any luck with finding a Ripmo in a timely fashion? Hard to believe they are 1/2 year out...for a bike?!?!


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Ok, so it seems demos aren’t out and I’m not sure what size I’d be in case I can find one online? I’m 6’1” and have an XL 2017 Ripley LS. No way a large Ripley would of fit me that model and year anyways)

That said, I haven’t ridden the new geo bikes with longer reach etc. the old ibis’s seemed to run small...you think I’d still need xl ripmo or would a large ripmo work?


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Ok, so it seems demos aren't out and I'm not sure what size I'd be in case I can find one online? I'm 6'1" and have an XL 2017 Ripley LS. No way a large Ripley would of fit me that model and year anyways)

That said, I haven't ridden the new geo bikes with longer reach etc. the old ibis's seemed to run small...you think I'd still need xl ripmo or would a large ripmo work?

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I had an XL Ripley LS with 70mm stem 800mm bars and now ride an XL Ripmo with 45mm stem and same bars.

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I had an XL Ripley LS with 70mm stem 800mm bars and now ride an XL Ripmo with 45mm stem and same bars.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I am 6'1'' and ride a size large V2 with a 50mm/0 degree stem. Sitting in the saddle this almost feels short, but the fit feels spot on when riding. I may adjust the stem spacers and swap to a 60mm stem for a comparison. Obviously, when it comes to cross over sizes it boils down to personal preference and the terrain you ride.
 
Ok, so it seems demos aren't out and I'm not sure what size I'd be in case I can find one online? I'm 6'1" and have an XL 2017 Ripley LS. No way a large Ripley would of fit me that model and year anyways)

That said, I haven't ridden the new geo bikes with longer reach etc. the old ibis's seemed to run small...you think I'd still need xl ripmo or would a large ripmo work?

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I am 6.1 on an XL coming from an XL HD3. Perfect fit with a 55 mm stem.
 
I would like to hear from people that are using coil in their ripmo V2, which brand, which coil and why did you do the switch?
I'm using an EXT Storia V3. I'm 160lb and using a 425lb spring. I originally started with an AF. It had a DVO Topaz T3 in it. I had that shock set up pretty well and it was a pretty good little shock. The AF also had a DVO Diamond in it. In some ways I thought the Topaz outgunned the Diamond once they were both fully dialled in. I upgraded the Diamond to a Manitou Mezzer Pro. This caused the Topaz to be seriously outgunned. So then I upgraded it to the EXT, with a 450lb spring with 1 turn of preload to get 30% sag.
A few weeks ago I bought my V2 so I transferred the suspension across sold the Fox 36 Factory and kept the X2. I had to go down to a 425lb spring on the V2 with 1 1/3 turns of preload to get 30% sag. The reason I did the shock upgrade on the AF in the end was like I said the Topaz was outgunned by the Mezzer and the rear end felt like it was kind of pulling the bike up on consecutive sharp hits. It felt like the bike would decelerate and it was coming from the rear. So that's where the EXT comes in. The extra speed the bike would carry over rough terrain afterwards was instantly noticeable and the extra traction is awesome. It also made the rear end feel like it has a lot more travel. The EXT has a hydraulic bottom out bumper, as does the Mezzer by the way. That means you pretty much never feel the suspension bottom out on either end. That makes the travel feel kind of endless if you know what I mean. Another massive up side of the EXT is that it's still very poppy. I would say even more poppy than the Topaz. I read that they were but I thought relative to what. Other coils or an air shock. Well it turns out I was able to have my cake and eat it too. I gained tonnes of performance over the Topaz and didn't lose the lively poppy nature of the Ripmo with an air shock. SUPER happy with the suspension on both ends of my bike. The Mezzer is an epic fork, if you know how to set it up, and the EXT shock is bloody amazing too. To my way of thinking you tend to get more stoke out of a good fork than a good shock because you are more directly in contact with it. People ride hard tails with good forks in them but no one rides a rigid fork with rear suspension so I think the perceived gains from a fork are greater but the benefits of a good shock are still very big.
I considered both the EXT Storia V3 and the Push 11-6. I believe they are the two best shock in existence but the EXT was lighter and I thought do I really need or would I really use the second compression circuit in the Push. So my decision was based on the fact that the EXT was lighter all the time and I didn't want to carry the extra weight of the Push all of the time to gain a second compression circuit that I would maybe use some of the time, maybe. I believe they both probably perform equally well.
 
ozibis - once again "splaining" the goodness of good suspension bits. Your point about the rear end causing the Ripmo to "decelerate" in repeated choppy/square edge bits - spot on. My suspension guy coined it a "hitchy" feeling - like it starts to tug at the rear and indeed slow down. I've felt it and its the only knock I have on the Ripmo. It was the reason I sold my previous bike which is a very similar rear suspension design. Now you go and make me not only want to buy the V2 (for other reasons you've described in the AF forum) but a new coil as well. And here I was just gonna replace the Ripmo w something "else"... I gotta check in on a EXT in the USA... I was thinking about the Cane Creek IL Coil... it likely cheaper but, but I know some like it on this bike these days as well as its light and tunable

Always appreciate your perspective and ability to describe the "feel" - rock on mate!
 
ozibis - once again "splaining" the goodness of good suspension bits. Your point about the rear end causing the Ripmo to "decelerate" in repeated choppy/square edge bits - spot on. My suspension guy coined it a "hitchy" feeling - like it starts to tug at the rear and indeed slow down. I've felt it and its the only knock I have on the Ripmo. It was the reason I sold my previous bike which is a very similar rear suspension design. Now you go and make me not only want to buy the V2 (for other reasons you've described in the AF forum) but a new coil as well. And here I was just gonna replace the Ripmo w something "else"... I gotta check in on a EXT in the USA... I was thinking about the Cane Creek IL Coil... it likely cheaper but, but I know some like it on this bike these days as well as its light and tunable

Always appreciate your perspective and ability to describe the "feel" - rock on mate!
Cane Creek will definitely be cheaper for sure. As far as tunability goes the EXT is VERY tuneable. PLUS and it's a big plus you get a hydraulic bottom out bumper. No more "feeling" like you are using all the travel all the time with a sudden rude stop or knocking noise from the rear end. You still are but it doesn't feel like it because it's so supportive and progressive at the end of the stroke.
When you do your price comparisons make sure you factor in the cost of 2 springs because the EXT comes standard with 2 included. Some others you have to buy the shock then buy the coil seperate. By the time you buy 2 coils the cost between them isn't as big as it first appeared. Buying the EXT you will end up with what is most likely a superior product. Except for the Push which I believe would be it's equal. Also consider that I have used both my springs so while at first I thought it was potentially overkill in the end I found it was awesome having both springs available to me at no extra cost to achieve the exact sag I wanted. At this stage I'm still on the 425lb spring on the V2 but I think there is every chance when the bushes free up more and the "fresh" 425lb settles a little more I will be close to looking at going back to the 450lb spring just with less preload than what I was using on the AF. I've been checking my sag regularly and after a few rides things have started to settle in and I've had to add some preload already. I'm now 2/3 of a turn or 2/3 of a mm away from the 2 turn or 2mm maximum preload recommendation until EXT says to change up a spring rate and use less preload.
As far as other bikes go if I was going to change the only others I would consider would be a Nukeproof Mega RS 290. Or if I listened to my heart an Evil Wreckoning. The later being the best looking bike on the planet in a tuff wicked looking sort of way but I think my V2 the best looking in a pretty sort of way. I really think the Ripmo V2 is the prettiest bike available right now. I don't think the Nukeproof is particularly good looking but I recon it's just a damn good bike. At one point I was EXTREMELY close to buying one but it had a 450 CS. I thought it was just too big but they've now changed that for the better.
 
I just got my Ripmo v2, and I saw some other posts about people saying the rear thru axle was specced wrong... Is this what others? Anyone contact ibis on it because I can't imagine they are just doing this constantly on accident? (mying was from BackCountry). Everythings setup right as far as I can tell... just doesn't go all the way through when the wheels on. I would have to break stuff to put enough torque on it to move it any further lol.

It seems fine... but idk weird.
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Can any New England riders weigh in on how this bike works on the tight/technical/twisty New England trails? I know it has been well received out West with bigger/flowier trails but have not heard enough from the East coast to convince me. I typically ride local trails with a half dozen downhill days a year thrown in at Thunder/Killington. I am looking for a one bike quiver that won't be a pig to ride on the local stuff but can handle occasional bigger terrain. I am about 200# and don't think the Ripley would cut it. I am coming off a 27.5 Trance (150F/140R), so I am already used to long-ish travel trail bike. The Ripmo has a 55mm longer wheelbase than my Trance, just don't want to buy a tank that I won't enjoy as a daily driver.
 
I would like to hear from people that are using coil in their ripmo V2, which brand, which coil and why did you do the switch?
I'm currently on a V2 Ripmo with a Push ElevenSix. This shock is beautifully made and very adjustable, but to be honest, I'm not sure this shock suits our frames well based on my recent experience. I've had this shock on a few horst-link bikes (Transition Patrol) and felt like it was much more impressive than it is on my Ripmo. I was expecting that traction-rich ride that I've had from other Push applications, and I'm just not there yet and it feels overdamped even when backing out HSC/LSC. I'm hoping Push can help me dial things in.

This may also be a testament to the tune on the DPX2 that came with the Ripmo, which I feel performs very, very well for an air shock with limited tuning capabilities. Given the weight penalty of a coil, I'm back to riding the DPX2 for now.

For what it's worth, having 2 separate HSC/LSC circuits is definitely a great feature of the Push shock, but given how well these bikes pedal it's probably not as big of a benefit compared to bikes with lesser kinematics. I'd trade that extra circuit for HS/LS rebound and a climb switch and wish the DHX2 fit the Ripmo...

I am interested to try the EXT if I can't get the Push sorted. I'll let this board know how it goes!
 
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