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The reason i asked was because the best deal I could find for the 100mm has those darn v-brake bosses and the 130mm for the same price has none.
 
aaronka970 said:
Can a 2007 Minute Platinum SPV 140 be converted to ABS+? I found the thread regarding converting to TPC but haven't found anything about ABS.
I don't know about ABS but TPC is great and you can shim it to give the ride you want.
 
aaronka970 said:
Can a 2007 Minute Platinum SPV 140 be converted to ABS+? I found the thread regarding converting to TPC but haven't found anything about ABS.
Possibly, by swapping dampers, but Manitou says the ABS+ damper won't fit in an SPV fork, others on here say they have successfully fitted it.

Buy one, try it out, let us know. I think the non MRD versions for Minutes are about 45 bucks at CRC. You'd have to get a TPC rebound damper while you're at it, another 40 bucks or so.
 
Great, thanks!

End of hijack. Could have started another thread, just noticed a lot of Manitou guys active on this one and I like the idea of fine tuning through shim stacks. Not to mention it sounds like ABS+ is the way to go.
 
Would it be ok if i take out one of the big shims? (manitou minute expert)
Maybe get 2 of the smaller ones off? Dont know.

I feel the fork is damping the compression too much and not getting enough travel.


Thanks
 
assas1n said:
All of them?

What i believe is that the fork is too progressive, and i would want it to feel more linear.
Progression is the spring, not the damper. Feel free to drain the oil from the damper and go for a ride to see how much travel you can get with no damping. Just beware it'll be quite bouncey.:D
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
assas1n said:
Would it be ok if i take out one of the big shims? (manitou minute expert)
Maybe get 2 of the smaller ones off? Dont know.

I feel the fork is damping the compression too much and not getting enough travel.

Thanks
There should be 3 of the largest shims stack on top of each other on your fork. You need to leave at least one to cover the oil ports. But removing one(or two) should will be fine. Experiment with removing different shims and see how it effects the ride, and the LSC (ABS+ dial). It will allow you to better understand what you are changing.
 
Yep, ill have to get my hands dirty and learn!

Will be getting oil for the damper and semi oil bath for the lowers next week, so i can do experimentation on the shims!

Thanks guy!
 
mullen119 said:
My 2010 drake has 6 compression shims stock. 3 the same size, and 3 that get progressively smaller in a pyramid shape. Lighter rider can remove shims to allow the HSC to open with less force, while heavier riders will want to add shims. Endless possibilities for shim configurations, So if you try this, post your weight and shim stack.
Very interesting thread--I suscribed to it.

Just wondering what configuration you tried was the best for your weight? The standard configuration from Manitou, or a custom one where you removed or added shims?

I remember from another post of yours that you weigh like me, so it'd be a good starting point for me.
 
Dougal

I have 2005 manitou Nixon super, air sprung with TPC+. I'm over 300lbs and want to tune this fork for cross country and all mountain. I do not get off the ground much but want better control from my Nixon. Right now I'm running 7.5 weight oil and have the max level in the fork. What suggestions do have to control diving and to keep the fork riding higher in it travel. I am willing to try re-shimming the fork but need some expert advice before I dig in.
 
big Kat said:
Dougal

I have 2005 manitou Nixon super, air sprung with TPC+. I'm over 300lbs and want to tune this fork for cross country and all mountain. I do not get off the ground much but want better control from my Nixon. Right now I'm running 7.5 weight oil and have the max level in the fork. What suggestions do have to control diving and to keep the fork riding higher in it travel. I am willing to try re-shimming the fork but need some expert advice before I dig in.
I would start by doubling the shims that are in the compression damper. Simply double them up and go from there. Presuming your air-spring pressure is okay, there is also a short coil spring under the air spring which should be upgraded to a stiffer one.

The rebound will probably be okay as most find the stock range too slow, see how that end goes.
 
big Kat said:
Dougal,

Thanks. I have 2 stiff ride kits already. Do you have any info on the shim size? Should I move to a thicker shim or just double up?
It is better to double up the shims. Thicker shims cannot flex as far without bending and eventually breaking.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Dougal said:
Is there any other type of riding?;)
Where I live, There is Rays MTB which is indoor mountain bike park for the winter. I was running a different set up there because there isnt much for small bumps. I was running my fork almost locked out with a weak shim stack to allow for it to blow off on the medium sized hits without a really harsh spike. Not much for big hits there, so the weak shim stack didnt give any problems with harsh bottom outs. I forgot about it and took it for my first outdoor ride of the year last week and had some problems :lol:
 
Manutou's ABS+ tuning guide

I recently wrote to Manitou to ask the difference between the trail tuned ABS+ of Minute forks and the standard XC ABS+ of R7 forks.

They sent me a useful document that explains the different configurations (XC, trail, linear) and how to tune the ABS+ damping system. It has lots of interesting graphs and drawings.

This document isn't in their website, but they told me I can publish it. It is very informative and I think it could be helpful. You can find it here: ABS+ Tuning REV 3-10-2011.pdf
 
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