[bruto]

They make different versions for the SEA market
And KT damper has a plastic piston, by the way, so this one might be from the same mold, just removable (well, most of the time) and with a tuneable shim stack

X-fusion too has models won't see on their site being sold in China (X-32 EVO, for example)

 

[olao]

What is the correct oil height for a 2015 Minute Pro? I seem unable to find that info on Manitou's pages or elsewhere. In the 2012 version it should be 87 mm and in the 2016-2017 version it is 75 mm. In mine it was 83 mm, after I had removed the damper and only spilled a few drops. I just bought it, but it is a model year 2015. I find the fork too soft for me, and perhaps it is because it has been running with too low oil.

 

[Aglo]

What is the correct oil height for a 2015 Minute Pro? I seem unable to find that info on Manitou's pages or elsewhere. In the 2012 version it should be 87 mm and in the 2016-2017 version it is 75 mm. In mine it was 83 mm, after I had removed the damper and only spilled a few drops. I just bought it, but it is a model year 2015. I find the fork too soft for me, and perhaps it is because it has been running with too low oil.

On the M30 manual for 2015, you have the oil chart for all the forks of that year.
They usually don't change it anyway.
Your Minute Pro it's listed there, the oil level is 75mm.
Go check it yourself, just to make sure.

 

[olao]

On the M30 manual for 2015, you have the oil chart for all the forks of that year.

Ok, thanks a lot. Should have checked there, I guess. Still, Manitou could have done better than hiding their user relevant information like that, imho.

Have now added oil up to 75 mm, and it does feel better going up and down on the sidewalks around the house. Might try it on the trails later today, but it is extremely wet and muddy at the moment, so nearly impossible to go fast on anything bumpy...

Nevertheless, I still believe it is a little to soft for me. It has the production XC stack (2 19x0.2 mm shims), but even at MAX it does not give a really firm platform. For me, that is - at 90 kg (200 lbs) and using around 100 psi. Am currently trying to order some more shims to play around with different stack setups.

After having had the damper apart a couple of times to inspect and measure the shims (and oil level), I feel uncertain about how hard to torque the nut below the piston. Have read the previous posts on the topic, but am not sure I understand the consequences of over- vs. under-tightening the nut. After all, there is a spring, but that seems to be entirely compressed anyways.

Edit: Went out on the driest trails and dirt roads I could find today (darn wet and muddy anyway), and it is a great fork. Still a little soft for steep ascents in the MAX, but perfect on bumpy trails and descents when 60-90 degrees open. Should correspond to 2-3 clicks I guess (but I have no clicks as mine is remote ready, so mounted without the spring and dialed by eye).

 

[KoolGrandWizardLuke]

My current compression shim stack looks like this.
PISTON
17.5x0.20 (2)
19x0.20
19x0.15 (2)
19x0.10
17.5x0.15
15x0.10
13x0.10
11x0.50
10x0.15

The 10x0.15 obviously does nothing.
The fork has 100mm of travel.

 

[Klaster_1]

I want to tweak the shim stack in my Marvel Pro, but the Abs+ damper seems to be stuck. Here's what I did:
1. Opened LSC (anticlockwise to max).
2. Removed adjuster knob, ball bearings and springs.
3. Unscrewed the damper with a 24mm hex socket until it started to "jump" on thread, so there should be no thread engaged.
4. Tried to pull the damper up, but it won't budge.

Can anyone help? Do I have to apply more force? The damper has not been removed before.

 

[arnea]

Basically yes. Try to move it left and right while pulling outwards.

 

[Klaster_1]

Basically yes. Try to move it left and right while pulling outwards.

Nope, still doesn't work. There was comment about letting the air out earlier in thread, should I have done that too?

 

[nikon255]

the same situation with mattoc. This cap is sealed by o-ring deep in stanchion. It helds so much that every time I try to get it out my fingers suffer. IMO try harder and move it left-right during pulling. Then suddenly loud POOOOP occurs and everything is covered with damper oil

 

[Klaster_1]

Finally made it with help of copper wire, I wrapped it under the damper and pulled up. Just like @nikon255 said, my previous attempts resulted in finger ache, but the wire can be pulled with anything hooked.

Thanks for help, guys.

 

[olao]

Finally made it with help of copper wire, I wrapped it under the damper and pulled up. Just like @nikon255 said, my previous attempts resulted in finger ache, but the wire can be pulled with anything hooked.

Thanks for help, guys.

Grab the stanchion by both hands, and firmly but slowly push the damper up by both thumbs, while wiggling it a little to the sides. Don't rush it, but let it take a few seconds to get it out. That usually works just fine, and mostly also avoids spilling much oil.

 

[nikon255]

after few times I found the same method, just gradually pull with some side to side movement.

 

[hurck]

I have some 17od shims laying around but their id is 6 instead of 8. Can i drill them out to fit the shaft or would that be impossible?

 

[mullen119]

I have some 17od shims laying around but their id is 6 instead of 8. Can i drill them out to fit the shaft or would that be impossible?

It doesn't work that way. Your best bet is to buy new shims

You can also email techsupport@hayesbicycle.com and nicely ask. If you are lucky, they may send you a few for free

 

[hurck]

Thanks, i’ll try it that way. Or order the ABS+ tuning kit somewhere. I’ll probably need to contact manitou tech support for the 2 mcleods i’m running. Those shims aren’t for sale (yet?)

My mcleods are from when they first came out, so they probably still have the old shimstack. I still need to open them up to check for sure

 

[mullen119]

Thanks, i'll try it that way. Or order the ABS+ tuning kit somewhere. I'll probably need to contact manitou tech support for the 2 mcleods i'm running. Those shims aren't for sale (yet?)

My mcleods are from when they first came out, so they probably still have the old shimstack. I still need to open them up to check for sure

You can order shims online for about 1$ a piece plus shipping. It's kinda a crazy price, but is worth it if the don't send you a few (they probably will)

 

[Dougal]

Finally got around to measuring up and posting the ABS+ mini tuning kit shims.

https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/abs-tuning-kit-small-manitou.html

Contains 24 metric shims.

8x10x0.1 (x2)
8x10x0.15 (x2)
8x10x0.2 (x2)
8x11x0.5 (x1)
8x17.5x0.1 (x2)
8x17.5x0.15 (x2)
8x17.5x0.2 (x2)
8x19x0.1 (x2)
8x19x0.15 (x4)
8x19x0.2 (x4)
10x20x0.15 (x1)

 

[Klaster_1]

Finally got around to measuring up and posting the ABS+ mini tuning kit shims.

That's a good deal, more shims and cheaper than from RSP 👍

 

[olao]

I put oil in my air chamber to make it more progressive. Worked for a while, but now it is all gone. Guess I read some early posts in this thread and looked no further. In somewhat later posts it is explained how oil is gradually sucked down below the piston. So now I wonder, where exactly did my oil go? I have a Minute Pro with MARS air. I know that mullen119 has explained previously that it goes into the negative chamber, but is that so for a MARS fork? If I understand the anatomy of my fork it should first arrive in the chamber of the coil. If it is there, I guess it does little harm, but if it is in the negative it would reduce negative volume and make the fork harsh (and it is a bit harsh).

 

[Dougal]

I put oil in my air chamber to make it more progressive. Worked for a while, but now it is all gone. Guess I read some early posts in this thread and looked no further. In somewhat later posts it is explained how oil is gradually sucked down below the piston. So now I wonder, where exactly did my oil go? I have a Minute Pro with MARS air. I know that mullen119 has explained previously that it goes into the negative chamber, but is that so for a MARS fork? If I understand the anatomy of my fork it should first arrive in the chamber of the coil. If it is there, I guess it does little harm, but if it is in the negative it would reduce negative volume and make the fork harsh (and it is a bit harsh).

MARS has no negative chamber, so the oil flows down into the lower leg bath oil.