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Dude, there is no max pressure so to speak. Pull that sticker off the lower and throw it away. How much air are you running? My dad is the same weight (just for reference) and I have him setup with a firm spring (120) and 120 psi. I highly doubt you are feeling the transition from coil to air.
Is there really no maximum? Or is it just for legal reasons (CYA or how you call it)? I thought Manitou being run by engineers it was based on psysical constraints and design choices, as all other (full) air sprung forks definitely have a maximum, or is there something else going on here, just interested.

Haha pulling the sticker of and throwing it away, that's a good tip for more 'air tables'. ;)
That time I was running about 120 psi (indicated by my shock pump, so only for my own reference), 140mm, firm: I finally got the lowers of whoo! So I had a chance to check the spring rate, firm indeed as per spec. That was with the stock Trail stack though.

Put it back together, went to 80-90 psi and went for a quick testride, this was with the XC stack. Not that bad, small bump compliance was still good (better than my SiD...), brake dive was better controlled, out of seat pedalling and full pull sprinting was no problem, not much suspension pump going on, kinda how I like it, stayed higer up in the travel generally. Did seem to notice some dive/compression through sharp corners/berms (g-outs?). Almost forgot, kinda important, ABS+ knob was at 3 or 4 clicks from MAX.

Yesterday took it across the border for some more techincal riding, bit of climbing, descending, plenty of roots and a bit of rock, nice technical singletrack. Good test for the fork at the same time, not bad.
Had a few bottom-outs, as the sag inidicator was near the top (as far as that goes with a Manitou), but didn't notice any harsh cluncks. But it could do with a bit more HSC, guessing from this one ride.

Damping setup is a personal thing. IMO, the xc stack is a mistake unless you want an ultra firm lockout at the sacrifice of small/square bump performance.
It certainly is, no doubt about that.
With the ABS+ knob on max it's quite firm indeed, but that isn't something I require, almost never use a lockout, always ride open. But small bump and square edge performance wasn't half bad. Adjuster at 4-5 clicks from max in this case.

tigris99 said:
Omg dont do xc stock stack, im 275 and that stack was rough.

Get ur spring rate right them rip out a platform shim, turn knob to 3-4 clicks open from lock. Brake dive goes to almost non existent but doesn't beat the crap put of you. Your actually approaching it backwards from what the tuning guide says to do.
Didn't notice it to be rough or harsh. ;)

So go to one speed shim and one platform from stock? Might try that.
After yesterday's ride and some observations, I did open up the damper again, and went back to stock Trail. Let's see if you are right. :p
Pressure is at 90 psi now. Took it for a short spin in the street to feel how it compares, better than last time with that setup it seemed.

But when I openend up the damper to change the stack, I might have found a reason, I must have misread the torque value with which to tighten the 13mm nut at the bottom, tightened too snugly (with both stacks maybe), as the check valve (shim) bended a bit when I tightened it down. Aha, then it doesn't really stop oil form flowing past. :eek:
 
Is there really no maximum? Or is it just for legal reasons (CYA or how you call it)? I thought Manitou being run by engineers it was based on psysical constraints and design choices, as all other (full) air sprung forks definitely have a maximum, or is there something else going on here, just interested.
I'm not going to speculate the method behind the madness of those spring charts, but like I already said, Manitou has published spring curves of the XX spring with 190psi. Sure, there is some mechanical limit to the piston seal and chamber/fork leg, but if you're not pushing 190psi, don't sweat some notional limit.

The biggest mistake you can make as a newbie tuner is assuming that you are pretty close and calling it quits. Don't stop making changes until you know for sure that you have overshot the target, and then backup. That being said, I still think you are over damped and under sprung. If you don't want a firm lockout, change to linear stack and go way up on your air for good mid/btm support.

You bent the rebound check shim because you didn't install it right. The shim has to be centered on the plastic spring perch. It actually rides up and down the should of the perch when it opens and closes. It's not clamped like the comp shims, and it doesn't deflect, the hole shim floats on the shoulder. When the nut just barely snugs things down, pull up on the shim and makes sure it opens, floats. If not, it's not installed correctly.
 
I'm expecting a Manitou Marvel Comp 120 to arrive tomorrow or the next day for my single speed. It should have a MILO with it, but not installed. It sounds like the MILO evokes some pretty mixed feelings, so lets leave that completely out of the equation for a while. My questions are this:

Does anyone know which stack the Marvel Comp 120 comes with?

Does anyone have any notion where I might want to go from stock, given: I'm 220ish kitted up, ride technical XC style trails, small drops, occasional small jumps. Most trails are rooty or rocky.

If I understand what I've read in this thread correctly, I'll likely want a more stout spring (which determines sag?) at the very least. Can anyone confirm this, or provide other pointers? Thanks.
 
The Marvel's should come with the XC stack. Add a 17.5mm x 0.2mm shim and it becomes the trail stack.
Was reading about this last night as I want to try it on my 100mm Expert's.
Does the TS Air use a spring?
 
The Marvel Comp uses a regular air spring, not the air spring plus coil spring combo used in the Minute Pro. All you need to do with the Marvel Comp is set the air pressure, there is no coil spring to swap. As for the shim stack, the Marvel series uses the XC stack, hard to say how it'll work for you since I have no idea where you prefer to set the adjustment, which fork you were using before, and how you want the fork to feel. I'd say ride it and see how it feels, then go from there.
 
Getting educated already - thanks guys. I was worried I may have to change out a spring to even begin to get the ride right. The fork coming off the bike is a slightly shorter rigid steel fork, which has been great fun, but my upper body has been telling me I'm not as good a damper as I used to be, so I'm shooting for some unknown level of plushness out of this fork. It will be important that it locks out for climbs, and important that it unlocks and takes the edge off every where else. Can't have a soft suspension fork slowing a single speeder down on the climbs, right? Tracking info says the fork should arrive this afternoon, so it'll likely take a couple days for the LBS to install it and cut the steerer for me, etc, then we'll get a look at it.

Thanks for the answers so far, I'm sure I'll end up with more. This is an awesome thread, by the way. It's one of the reasons I decided to pull the trigger on this fork. Maybe you guys should be getting kickbacks from Manitou? :D
 
It took a while to get my bike back with the fork on it because the shop had to order a post mount adaptor (never thought about that) for the front brake since the old fork was ISO. I picked the bike up from the shop and went straight to the trail with it, and based on the tuning sticker on the fork, but 75 PSI in the fork (figuring for the low end of 220 since I'm about 215+hydration pack). I cranked the damper back to three clicks from locked out to get the brake dive under control, and it felt pretty good. I'm going to actually measure the sag at some point today and see if the air pressure is in the ball park.

Big question is this: I see the MILO looks like an on/off unit. I also see some indication that it doesn't provide the full range of adjustment. Can anyone comment on how much or how little adjustment it can give? For instance, if my sag is in the ball park with 75 PSI, can I make the MILO only run from closed to three clicks open?

I have to be honest, I'm super impressed with how good this fork felt for just throwing some air in it and hitting a trail with some rock gardens and real technical stuff.
 
Yes, MILO is on/off and it doesn't pull enough cable to spin LSC knob across its full range. Usually MILOs are set up so as to close off LSC completely when engaged.

However, it (the LSC knob, either with MILO attached or not) has no relation to the fork's air spring pressure, those are independent settings.

As to how much adjustment does MILO give, I'd say that with factory damper oil the MILO "open" position should be enough for a plush ride. However take it with a grain of salt form me as my idea of plush is anything that bobs when I pedal out of saddle. :) -- running a rigid fork currently and happy so far.
 
Yes, MILO is on/off and it doesn't pull enough cable to spin LSC knob across its full range. Usually MILOs are set up so as to close off LSC completely when engaged.

However, it (the LSC knob, either with MILO attached or not) has no relation to the fork's air spring pressure, those are independent settings.

As to how much adjustment does MILO give, I'd say that with factory damper oil the MILO "open" position should be enough for a plush ride. However take it with a grain of salt form me as my idea of plush is anything that bobs when I pedal out of saddle. :) -- running a rigid fork currently and happy so far.
Right, I get the air pressure isn't affected but LSC, but I was able to tune out some brake dive by closing down on the LSC some. While they're independent settings, they do interact.

When I actually checked sag %, it looks like somewhere between 70 and 75 PSI is where the air should be, but brake dive is still an issue. I'm going to get it close and ride it through the break-in and see what happens at that point.

I put the MILO on (took about a half hour, including fishing one of the metal balls out of the bottom of one of the little holes the springs are supposed to sit in because I've got fat fingers) and rigged it up to lock out, and turn only the distance of three clicks back towards open by fiddling with where i put the spring that returns the knob.

I'm supposed to hit a pretty fun trail with a group on Saturday, so I'll have a much better picture of how all of this works together then, but so far, I'm liking the stock setup pretty well. I'm coming off a rigid fork, so the lock out is important to me for climbs (SS and all that) but yes, anything not rigid becomes plush when you kick the lockout off.
 
Is it possible that I feel less LSC damping just because I changed fork seals? Now I have installed Enduro seals, which appear smoother than stock Manitou's (pretty less stiction). Everything in the abs+ damper configuration has not changed. I checked oil level 2 times. Still, it seems there is less LSC damping. Even when abs+ is maxed, the fork is not completely locked out (previously it was, almost).
 
Did u change the oil in the damper? Did you check the oil level as shown in manitou manual? Did u compress forks several times with dampers set full open and then let sit so air trapped in the fluid can escape to the top of the damper?
 
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