Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
401 - 420 of 741 Posts
Discussion starter · #401 ·
Thanks everyone . I founds the ABS+ on Amazon for like 39$ and if I wanted the lock out kit it was like 55$. So do I want the lock out or not
Personally, I like having all the clicks in the middle and have no reason. To have a remote lock out. But if you need to use the lock out often then i may be worth it for you.
 
if you are talking about the MILO i say it's def not worth the $55. it's a PITA to set up and get dialed to where you would like it. you lose a lot of adjustment when using the MILO. if you really want it PM me as i have one sitting here that has minimal hours
 
I modified my Milo cause it didn't open far enough, took dremel to the red cap and cut the groove deeper. Measured and marked where the normal knob was for each click then ground away the groove till the Milo knob would go from full lock to where I usually have it set open.

All that said, I'm doing this soon and been done plenty with perfect results. Buy a rockshox poploc lever and use it instead. You can't go full open to full lock out but full open is scary anyway, horrible brake dive.
 
Marvel 100mm fork on a Kona Unit SS.
90kg rider, riding everywhere.

It'll be used for playing in the hills, XC racing, back country epics.

As it's a single speed, I'll be using the locked out platform most of the time and the stock XC stack is a little too rock solid.
Maybe a platform breakaway around 400Nm instead of the stock 500?
Tried with one 19x0.2 removed, but not enough platform.
Replace one of the 19x0.2's with a 19x0.15?
 
That's something you'll have to play with. Your wanting to do something most of us dont, which is 0 small bump compliance, harsh ride. Remember you can't have a strong platform in full lock and not practically be riding rigid fork.

Rider weight means little for abs+ damper. Spring controls rider, damper controls spring. Get a few different shims and try a few variations to see what you like.
 
That's something you'll have to play with. Your wanting to do something most of us dont, which is 0 small bump compliance, harsh ride.
I'd just like it to be closer to how the Motion Control on my Stumpy 26" hard tail handles.
Not as strong a platform as the ABS+ XC stack when climbing locked out and flick it open a click or 2 for bumpy/descent.
 
I'd just like it to be closer to how the Motion Control on my Stumpy 26" hard tail handles.
Not as strong a platform as the ABS+ XC stack when climbing locked out and flick it open a click or 2 for bumpy/descent.
You can also place one or more 12mm shims under the stack. These shims don't have to flex, but just reduce the 0.6mm preload that is normally placed on the XC stack.
If you use a shim of about 17mm diameter it will also add to the overal speed sensitivity, which might be a good thing, or a bad one if you prefer a digressive (blowoff) feel.
 
I'd just like it to be closer to how the Motion Control on my Stumpy 26" hard tail handles.

Not as strong a platform as the ABS+ XC stack when climbing locked out and flick it open a click or 2 for bumpy/descent.
Find the manitou tuning chart, order up some shims and start trying some variations. Trying to duplicate motion control damper the way you like it is something you'll have to play with. Luckily shims are cheap, a bottle of damper oil is also pretty cheap, and takes only 5mins (once you've done it) to make a change to your shim stack and be riding again.
 
After a few rides and a good long (40km) race, I think the stock XC shims are about right for single speeding so I've ordered the MILO adjuster.
It's going to be mated up to an X0 9spd or Zee 10spd shifter depending on which is more compatible for adjustment duties.
On my RS SID Race forks the X0 gives 5 clicks from locked out to fully open.
The poplock was fine when it had gears and I was seated climbing but not SS...
 
ok I called and talked to Manitou and for my fork it only came with a medium spring

09 Manitou Drake Super Air

I bought the ABS+ damper but it makes the ride way too soft.
my question is can I use some shims and a combination of fork oil to make the fork a little stiffer

I am going to do a fork o ring kit and add a thicker OIL like maybe a 7.5w or 10w oil
can someone tell me the amount of oil I need to add in the right scantion and how much I need to add the rebound area
thanks in advance
 
ya I bought this bike used and I got in contact with Manitou and they said that model only came with the MED spring and they never made a firm spring for it
im a 240lb novice XC/AM rider and when I installed the ABS+ the spring was too soft
and Manitou recommended a firm but when I sent them the model number they told me they don't make it for the DRAKE SUPER AIR model

so that why I was asking about added more shims and thicker oil to see if that would help adding to the compression
but I am looking at doing a FORK exchange to the Manitou Circus expert in about 6 month
 
Hi, I'm new to this thread; I just finished installing a 2013 minute pro on my trek fuel EX9. I'm stoked to have such a user friendly fork but now after reading through some of this thread I'm a little overwhelmed. My plan was to ride it for a while and see what I think. I weigh approx. 190-195, 6'2" and a fairly decent rider that likes to push hard. We have some long grinds on our rides to I'm glad to have a fork with some lockout. When I'm ready to start delving into reshim the fork where do I begin? Thanks for the help
 
Hi, I'm new too, although I've been reading quite alot in this topic and related documents, just created an account to ask questions and participate. You've created quite a resource here, well done.

Last week I got my hands on an as good as new 2012 Minute Pro 140, installed it immediately ofcourse, set the sag and went for a quick ride (bounce) in the street.
Sadly it suffers from massive brake dive. I was under the impression that the 2012 140mm came stock with a firm ride kit, I am about 187 lbs (84kg), 200 lbs with full kit. Looking at the air pressure chart that should equate to less than 50 psi. But that results in mahoosive brake dive. Should it have a standard ride kit, 100 psi would probably suffice, but even then and at maximum pressure it still dives to much for my liking.

I was very interested in this fork and the ABS+ damper and ofcourse to posibilities of tuning it (becoming somewhat of a suspension enthousiast), but as I read on multiple occasions spring rate trumps damping, so thats something that should be taken care of beforehand. I

But to get to the real question, I was wondering what ride kit it was fitted out with and if I should get a firmer option (I read that the springs are generally not that firm and that heavier riders prefer a extra, or even xx firm ride kit).

Checked the service manual, remove casting, quite simple and straight forward, but hit a snag almost immediately. The bolt which threads into the compression rod (spring side) a 12mm hex bolt in my case, doesn't want to come out, it spins and spins (with quite some drag) so it appears the rod or internals are slipping. How can this be solved, I would really like to get going with this fork and experiment with the features (and ditch the Fox 32 Talas its replacing). Otherwise I am going to have to dish out quite a bit more on a Mattoc. :p

In this video at about 1:14:
its suggests pressing down on the arch to remedy this problem, mentions the spinning. Tried it, but that doesnt work sadly. Ant thoughts? Thanks.

Send an email to Manitou support aswell.

Any idea where you can get firm or extra firm ride kits still?
 
401 - 420 of 741 Posts