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Ok I'm going to basement to throw the x firm and abs+ knob on and set it half way to LO along with 1/2 rebound and will start at 90 psi. When LO is at full there's about 1" of dive
I'm gonna guess that even with an x firm spring at your weight that that a bit more than 90psi may be needed. when you stiffen the spring on these you also need to increase psi significantly
 
Great thread for us DIY'ers.

I just picked up what appears to be a 2009 Drake Comp 100mm. The only external adjustment is rebound. I believe the damper is FFD.

Can I upgrade to TPC or ABS+? Is it worth upgrading?
 
Yes you can, and of course it is mandatory to upgrade from that FFD junk. Last time I saw one it was a plastic cork with 4 round holes in it. That is non(-externally)-adjustable orifice damping. The abomination!
 
How did it go?
a lil late to the party, but i ended up at: X-firm spring, rebound 75% open, abs usually about mid way, 115 psi & tsp grease on top of the chamber to stiffen that dive. its now a dream and i can, not that i try to, plow through most anything and small bumps do not exist. oh and for reference i weigh ~195-200 #'s geared
 
Yes you can, and of course it is mandatory to upgrade from that FFD junk. Last time I saw one it was a plastic cork with 4 round holes in it. That is non(-externally)-adjustable orifice damping. The abomination!
Okay, I've been studying page 27 of the 2009 Service manual

http://www.manitoumtb.com/assets/Service Manuals/2009 Fork Service Manual.pdf

and searching for dampers and other parts online (mostly at CRC). I have yet to find a TPC damper, but I've found an Absolute+ damper without the knob ($50-ish) and another kit with the knob and MILO setup ($77-ish).

It appears I can simply upgrade the damper (#5 on the schematic) alone. Is that the case?

Would it be worth it to upgrade the other leg to air? Can I simply add the air cap (#3) without the "air specific" spring (#2) and compression rod (#1)?
 
Yes, the dampers are interchangeable. My advice is to go for Absolute+ (of course) but without MILO.

As for the spring, being a fan of coils (++ reliable) I can't really recommend air.. isn't your spring side ACT Air though? It's a full size coil assisted by low pressure high volume air in the same chamber, it's reliable enough and is air-like adjustable. And you can get heavier coil and run it without air pressure if you want.
 
No, mine has no air, just a Comp with FFD. Both top caps are nothing but solid caps. The only adjustment I have is rebound on the bottom of the leg.

I am thinking an air cap can be tried with the existing spring. The air just fills the same area as the spring. If I like it, great. If not, swap back.
 
Air cap alone may not be enough, it depends on which spring side compression shaft/cap assembly is in your fork. Basically there are 2 types of such assembly for full size coil 32 mm stanchion Manitou forks: one with o-ring in a groove and one grooveless without o-ring (this is the piston part where the spring rests). The former go in ACT Air forks together with an air cap (Schrader valved). The latter go with mechanically preloaded or non-preloaded coil forks.
 
I am thinking an air cap can be tried with the existing spring. The air just fills the same area as the spring.
Air cap with no air piston ?

There's probably a good reason why there's no air cap on your fork with it's current coil spring setup.

Troubleshooting.
Symptom: Air Loss
Cause: Air Piston leaks
Solution: Check oil volume on top of piston, replace parts as needed.

2009 Drake Comp coil compression rod
2009 Drake Comp air compression rod
* the o-ring that's on the piston on the air compression rod is what seals the air in the stanchion

You might be better off just getting a ABS+ with knob for your fork.
 
Would it be worth it to upgrade the other leg to air? Can I simply add the air cap (#3) without the "air specific" spring (#2) and compression rod (#1)?
No you can not, for several reasons. Mostly the inside of the leg isn't machined and polished to function with the air piston. Dont bother thinking about it.
 
I'm trying different shims to soften/speed up my ABS+, but currently finding the rebound pretty slow too, so is there any reason not to use lighter oil to speed up both? I have some Redline 2.5wt on hand...
 
Try it, why not. Ironically I had the reverse problem with Marvel Expert recently, it had a large rebound orifice and too fast rebound. 10W oil helped.
 
Man, I have these spares I don't know what to do with anymore... A complete Nixon 160 MRD cartridge with TPC+ and rebound dampers as well as a spare MRD tpc+ damper... Any ideas?

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I also have a spare standard TPC+ damper for a Sherman 150, Nixon 145, and possibly Minute (not confirmed)...
 
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