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Abs+ tuning kit

I wonder how much the kit will cost? The moto ones online are upwards of $100, which isn't a lot in the grand scheme of things, but which seems geared more to a shop/team than to the home tinkerer.
Yes it is. It retails for around 200$. I'll defenitely opt for spare shims!

Just wondering what ID size is needed? 8 mm?
 
Hi
Very interesting post.

I have a circus 130 and i want to make it more trail friendly.I mean use more travel and be more plush but keep a good bottoming resistance.I do agressive trail with jump and some dj. .

Change the spring for a softer is the best start ?
For now i run it with no air ( i weigh 147 lbs) and i use less than 3/4 of the travel only on big impacts.

Big thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english :eek:
 
Discussion starter · #229 ·
Hi
Very interesting post.

I have a circus 130 and i want to make it more trail friendly.I mean use more travel and be more plush but keep a good bottoming resistance.I do agressive trail with jump and some dj. .

Change the spring for a softer is the best start ?
For now i run it with no air ( i weigh 147 lbs) and i use less than 3/4 of the travel only on big impacts.

Big thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english :eek:
first thing to do is to check your sag. Since its a DJ fork, its probably over sprung and moving to a softer spring would help. It also has a very stiff shim stack, so removing a shim should help with small bump sensitivity.
 
thank for the answer.

the stock spring is a firm. i think i'm around 10/15 % of sag so a medium will be better.
i try to understand the function of each shim but i'm a bit lost.
It's the blow-off shim i must remove ?
i saw in the tuning guide, the difference between trail and jump stack is a velocity dependant shim (pink) and 2 blow-off shims (blue). What is the function of the pink velocity dependant shim ?
 
Discussion starter · #231 ·
thank for the answer.

the stock spring is a firm. i think i'm around 10/15 % of sag so a medium will be better.
i try to understand the function of each shim but i'm a bit lost.
It's the blow-off shim i must remove ?
i saw in the tuning guide, the difference between trail and jump stack is a velocity dependant shim (pink) and 2 blow-off shims (blue). What is the function of the pink velocity dependant shim ?
Generally speaking, Think of blow off shims as platform shims, meaning the more blow off shims you have, the more platform your shim stack will give you.

Speed shims are very similar to preload reducing shims. They reduce the preload on the shim stack making the blow off shims open easier. The difference between Speed shims and a preload reducing shim is that a velocity shim adds to the damping characteristics of the shim stack, and a preload reducing shim does not.

Velocity shims(are used as speed shims as well), are extra shims that add to the over all damping curve, but do not have an effect on platform. Instead, they control how the blow off shims open, giving extra support after the intial opening of the blow off shims.

It takes time to understand what exactly is going on. The Dyno charts help a ton when narrowing down the possibilities, but experimenting is the best way to learn what exactly is going on and how each shim effects the feel of the fork. The main thing for you to realize is that your stock shim stack is very stiff. It only allows oil to pass on very hard hits. Removing one platform shim is a good start to making the fork more trail friendly.:thumbsup:
 
may have missed it, i did not read this entire thread but there a rule of thumb what shims/order you should have for a given rider weight?

Ie; if I weight 210lbs what shim stack should I have for the best ride etc?

J-
 
Discussion starter · #233 ·
may have missed it, i did not read this entire thread but there a rule of thumb what shims/order you should have for a given rider weight?

Ie; if I weight 210lbs what shim stack should I have for the best ride etc?

J-
Its a little more complicated then just weight. You have to take into account what characteristics you are looking to achieve. Do you want more platform? Less platform? More overall damping? Better small bump compliance? better pedal efficiency?
 
Thanks again !!

so first step i will try a softer spring and start the experiment ;)
Hope i won't create a frankenstein fork :D

I will report the result here
 
Its a little more complicated then just weight. You have to take into account what characteristics you are looking to achieve. Do you want more platform? Less platform? More overall damping? Better small bump compliance? better pedal efficiency?
copy makes sense. I am putting my fork on tomorrow so I will see how i feels once I get it dialed in.

Just curious what is "platform."

J-
 
Discussion starter · #236 ·
copy makes sense. I am putting my fork on tomorrow so I will see how i feels once I get it dialed in.

Just curious what is "platform."

J-
Platform is when the fork is locked out, how much pressure is takes to break the lock out and allow the fork to move. More platform = stiffer lock out. Less platform means a lighter lock out. Its all depends on what you want.
 
Don't know if I missed it, but I'd say it'd be important to know how much the bottom bolt under the piston should be tightened. The tighter, the more the blow-off shims get preloaded, as they flex more.

I can't find any torque figure in Manitou's tuning guide. How much do you tighten that bolt?
 
But not so hard as to strip the thread or break off the end of shaft.. didn't happen to me yet, but that kind of disaster looks doable.
 
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